dhp123166

Yeah exactly although now I have a new project I am going to run my injector wires along the fire wall and over the rear of the engine as opposed to stock over the manifold, so this heater thing will take a backseat...for now...

Awesome car Teknomage.

Now I just did an online search and saw something cool, "A dashboard fan or ceramic heater that is 12v and plugs into the lighter. It has cooling and heating capabilities and defrosting as well. It was given 5 stars and costs all of $17.99. Doesn't get much easier than that...

Those are both excellent ideas. The stock blower does work and I have it wired to an aftermarket switch at off-on only. That computer fan idea has real possibility. To implement both of those I think I would still have to gut the stock heater and AC unit which is not in use anyway and I do like to get rid of stuff which is extraneous to operation. I guess what I am trying to ascertain is pulling the stock heater as big a pain in the butt as I think it is? The service manual kind of makes it look doable but I've looked under there and it looks cramped and tight and no fun at all. Conventional wisdom says that it's a headache inducing job and I would tend to agree...

I like to fix things and I think I do need the defroster for the rainy season...

Hello, I have a '76 280z AC coupe that I have routed the coolant out of the heater as the heater vacuum cock and the heater control valve w/ capillary tube leaked. I have a new vacuum cock and a used control valve to replace the defective parts. The molded hoses are 5 years old so they should be good to go. I have alot of wiring underneath the console and the heater cover. I live in So. Cal. so I have lived without the heater for the past two "winters". Defrost is definitely a thing to have. Everything else on the vehicle is fixed and maintained. I don't really want to do it because of the pain in the butt factor but I got nothing else to do and I am kind of fried. What would you do?

Thanks, but I don't think I'll be taking this advice any time soon. It's probably just the bushings on that side which seem to wear faster so they probably need to be replaced. I could get myself into alot of trouble if I start altering original sheet metal and proceeding without a concrete plan. Lord knows it would not be the first time. Thanks...

I have a '76 federal vehicle so that I have no EGR, and no catalytic converter ( at least stock). Count your lucky stars that you have a '75 because now you can modify it with impunity!!!! ( And I just got my vehicle registration letter with biyearly smog certification required this year)...

I prefer the body style of the S-30 to the body style of the S-130. The rest is debatable details...

I am having the same thing on my '76 Z. I have lowering springs from MSA and replaced all the stock rear control arm bushings with urethane about 8 years ago. The camber on the drivers side is about -.35 degrees , but on the passenger side (drive wheel) it is about -1.5 degrees. The strut tower top mounts were replaced as well with used 240 mounts. I wonder how I could rectify this...

3x chrome finish and wait 'til you see what I had done beforehand. I also routed my ignition cables around the block instead of over. Almost nothing cleans up an engine bay like rerouting the ignition cables. Should be done in a week...

Now imagine that thing with two turbos and a biodiesel conversion...

Triple chrome or black chrome will be the finish and I am not mentioning where I am starting with it...

A gold plated valve cover might look sweet and it would go along with the Ronald McDonald theme of my engine compartment. I have never seen one but I am sure it has been done in the lowrider world. Now there is a picture I would like to see, a lowrider S-30 Z car...

I decided against gilding the cover with gold leaf as that might be too labor intense and not strong enough to withstand the rigors of under the hood. So I am gonna shave it and highly polish or chrome plate it...

Alright I am at the junkyard and there is a 280z there with some good parts and a valve cover that is already removed just begging me to buy it. Now I already have a chrome valve cover purchased from MSA almost 10 years ago and it is pretty thrashed. After seeing the work that others' do on this site I decided what I was gonna do with the one that I bought. I will post a picture when it is done because it is not going to look like any valve cover that I have seen on this site or any other for that matter. A new project is afoot!!! (much to my wife's consternation.) See ya in the trenches, Daniel

Decker Canyon is an awesome road to drive especially from the 101 to the top, sliding around the greasy turns, I think I had more fun with going up than going down as fast as possible. And I NEVER saw any cops...

I put MSA urethane bushings on my '76 280z TC rods when I first got the vehicle 13 years ago. I have replaced them once 2 years ago and absolutely cranked them down. I have experienced no problems whatsoever other than one cup washer coming loose from the frame in which the bushing sits. I had never heard of any failure until perusing this site and even so if it breaks I'll fix it. Ignorance is bliss? One thing that might be beneficial is to ascertain what the durometer (hardness) of the different makes of bushings are as a softer urethane might be more forgiving than a harder one. I hope my T.C. rods don't break now... P.S. : I run wider than stock tires as well.

Your voltage regulator is under there and so is an air conditioning relay.

T.T. the Bears', Cambridge, MA. 1986

It's not a drastic effect, but it comes on gradually...

I had the same problem and I just pulled the drooping part of the headliner out from the vinyl covered metal part which was holding it in, shot it full of spray glue and pressed it back into place. Never had a problem since. But then on my first Z ( along time ago) it was drooping in the center and hanging down substantially so I just tore it out and spray painted the roof.

Been a long time. So I have my '76 280, with 8" wide centerline rims with neutral offset. This means that one inch sits (in my mind) too far inside for the stock driveline. On the drive wheel I am seeing premature wear on this one inch from what I assume is the torquing forces which would not be there with stock rims. So I buy a set of one inch wheel spacers that sets the wheels flush to the outside of my fender fiberglass flares and think okay this should work. Now when I go around corners I start hearing from the drivers side rear wheel a heinous scraping sound, the wheel is rubbing on the fender. I further check the struts and there is alot of play as they are just some generic ones I got off ebay. I have 240Z "strut top bumpers" and (I think) MSA lowering springs. ( I got them at a junk yard, they're blue). So the car is somewhat slammed from stock ride height. In the rear of my vehicle I also have a rollbar to strut tower modification which preloads the rear suspension. The scraping only happens on my side which I guess is my car telling me to lose weight. So, I don't really feel like shelling out for adjustable KONI's at this point because my struts are fine, just not fine enough... I changed the 12 year old urethane end link bushings and this helped a little. I saved the old ones...just because. What to do? I think that limiting the movement of the spring is the next deal but how? First I consider zip tieing metal bolts between the coils and then it hits me; zip tieing my used poly bushings in non sequential coils. The sprung space between the coils is 1/2 inch and the width of the bushings is approximately 1/2 inch. This is too easy. I just cone out the center of the bushing so that the zip tie has space to go around the coil of the spring. I put them in and take 'er for a spin and...it works better than expected. The ride is smoother in the straights and around the corners there is no more scrapey. Bushings can be added or subtracted as well if I want more or less play. Total cost; Four used bushings: free. Four zip ties: .08 cents. Have a blessed day!!!!

I think that is going to look cool.

By a used core and slap it on. If that is not the problem you still have a used core to replace yours when it does break...