Probably the right thing to do...
I just found this, don't know anything about other than it's fiberglass, relatively new, completely intact other than 2 scrapes on the bottom edge, and pretty heavy duty.
Anyone?
No ones arguing here fellas nor is anyone stressing to make a sale.
If I owned those particular wheels I would glue the furshlugginer cap onto the wheel. End of story.
I have Centerlines and the metal cap screws onto the rim, that is good design.
Well it doesn't take a genius to figure out if one reinforces the inner area around the base of the tines with silicone RTV or epoxy putty, snapping off tines will not be an issue.
I'm in SoCal and have both fenders and steel headlight housings.
Shipping to Hawaii will not be cheap as you are in Hawaii and the package size will trigger the large package $50.00 surcharge.
Dude,
77-78 280z's have plastic a-pillar covers that are a direct fit, one just needs to drill holes to mount or one can use 2 sided tape to mount.
They totally clean up that area. I put them in my '76
I have a repaired pair if you're interested...
Okay, I remember, I did not want to reassemble the rust free door shell I had.
In that case I'll pick one up next time I see one.
I've passed over a few already and you don't seem to be having any luck finding one.
FYI, this would ship fully assembled except with no dovetail and the window frame detached to save on shipping costs.
Thanks Nick.
Well it will mount and be functional...
...however, you don't get that nice firm click upon closing that you get with the stock door.
I had a 240z door on my 76 280z and it sounded rinky dinky and tinny, I guess because it weighs less.
Not to mention the propensity that 240z doors have for splitting
along the weld between skin and frame that sits under the a-pillar when closed
rendering the whole door worthless...