frank280zx

Theoraticaly im with you .. haha well i guess you are the one roadtesting it I have SBC in now.. but a BMW engine will be in at some point.. i just dont have the time to fix the ods and ends right now.. If i do it again im going for the N series! Meanwhile i'll watch this build, as the N54B30 is fairly common here to and compared to the older M engines allot cheaper (between 3 and 4 K) and as powerfull especially with some schrek cams and a turbo upgrade . The N54B30 in stock form produces 306 hp (228 kW) and 295 ft·lbf/400 Nm according to BMW. Third party testing has revealed the engine is significantly underrated, producing 332 hp (248 kW) and 311 ft·lbf/422 Nm in one test. It seems right in place in the bay and it clears the sway bar!!.. What can i say im a sucker for Beemer engines! i might copy you in a ZX

100% agreed. If you want low how about airride? It doenst seem like your goal is peformance oriented but more 'Busoku' style.. I think that is worth two thumbs up. For that air ride might be the ticket! Plus you can pump the car up to get over speed bumbs etc. If you want to drop it with conventional springs, you might want to look itno changing the pivot points up higher (hence bump-steer like JMortsen says) wich can only be done about 1" on a ZX front suspenion like i did on my ZXR. For the rear you need to alter the pick up points to be mouted higher on the sub frame (though the camber on the rear wheels does suit the 'Busoku' style!!!) The sectioned struts seem to be a move in the right direction.

Its just that a exhaust tube is down right dangerously thin.. and well might get you cought in situation where you dont want to be! At least you seem to understand this is the case...

Great ZX however id like to point out that on the stock s130 zx turbo in europe there where oil coolers, like on the z31's! Though the holes you point out are designated for the the sensors, the cooled diff has a filter and tube in the cover and dumps the cooled oil back through a hole where the breather is in normal diffs ( on the pinion) ill shoot some pics when i open mine up z31's that were sold in Europe have diff and gearbox oil coolers fitted These units have a Hitachi piston type 12 volt pump to circulate oil. Part # for the pumps 21660-37P00 and 37P01. they set you back 400usd so id go Tilton (a cooler and pump at Summit set you back about 200! better deal if you ask me)

I noticed the same in my 280zx when installing the BMW v8.. though mounting the transmission like you show in this picture will make the 'ears' rip off the gearbox, you need to insulate them. I have seen it happen to all the v8 and m50b24 swapped e30's i have run into that swapped without insulating them. Seems like the s52 fits way nicer than a s62 or m44b62 does!! I sold my BMW v8 with 6 speed and dropped in a sbc i had laying around. I left all the mounts for the V8 in the zx and keeping an eye out for the newer N series v8 as the sump moved to the back !!! and HP moved up to the 300 range or 500 even if you get the twin turbo M versions! Ill be watching this thread closely!

Dude... Id get it checked or you will miss even more cash down the line. (This is one of those; penny whise pound foolish situations... or Murphy's) What type of head is it? N42? N47? If your head has a crack (wich personally i have seen on n47's more than any others) al your money and work goes down the drian and you can start all over.

The geustimates for my ZXR Car: $500 Shipping the car to europe: €1200 Paint:€750 Wheels:€500 Tires:€800 Brake pads:$300 Rotors:€100 Steel brake line kit for z32/r33 brakes:€100 Poly Bushings:$169 OBX LSD:$450 incl shipping Full chromo Cage: a spare parts 260z 3"exhaust €200 TRS harnes: €200 Sparco Driver: €250 Sparco deep dish wheel with quick disconnect: €150 Aluminum Radiotor: $150 Spal fan: €98 Headlightcovers:$50 Sway bar kit with endlinks:$450 NOS kit (wet):€300 Gauges etc: €900 And im sure i forgot 3 grand along the way ... THIS IS CONFRONTING Engine 1: L28 ET bored to 2.9 Ross racing pistons isky cam t3t4 turbo ITBS etc etc: €3500 (parted out and used in fia car) Engine 2: BMW v8 M60B40 with 6 speed €2200 sold for €2500 Engine 3: 305 SBC Bought for €3500 (including car) traded the car for a full fia cage in my track toy $600 in misc parts. The other car ... well lets not get started

LOVE it .. just 1 question stock engine meaning bone stock ? cast pistons etc ? And why is the bigger turbo feeding the smaller Turbo? would you not rather want it vise versa ?

You cant run with 'milky oil' so drain the oil, pull the head, and bring the head to a shop for insepction (since you are a bigginer) reinstall and drive ..

I dont think it is weird that you have to donate to list stuff for sale, though i have doubts it will benifit the goods offered for sale. And Actually i dont mind donating, it is great forum, and i made reallife friends here! Even if the Admins would make money of this i wouldnt care. Your local Bar where you like to come does the same, if the qaulity is good, i dont mind to show (in this cas e very moderate) $$

also see this link http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/90044-my-new-coil-overs/

they look like a uneversal type ball joints.. Join up in the supensiontech post a couple of post down. it might help concentrate de s130 options

I got the bump steer spacers form him to, shoot him a mail i could have em made for you. No used the z31 steering 'knuckels' and apart from having to give the tie rods some play, but well within a save margin. The new A arms i will do the same (to make up for the ISMA widebody kit) but ill go with heim joints for adjustment (hence this will eb a full track car)

There has been a 240z targa. As i recall there was something with laminating of the glass making them shatter. All i have seen is an old advertisement showing T-tops for a 240Z as an aftermarket accessory. The ad was from the early 70's. It only had a picture and did not say who the maker was. There was thread about it on zcar.com over 2 years ago, what i do know is that they are NLA.

Stretch ..... I could not find the english word.. I cut them in half and added 1.5"! For that car i did not go with heim joints for 78 s130 I will but that is a full track car. Pictures say more than words!

The camber wont allow for enough adjustments... i had the same problem using z31 coilovers and 5 lugs with r33 calipers (z32 basically)on my ZXR. I had to 'stretch' the lca's about 1,5" to make up for the camber loss using the z31 spindle

well no mdofication .... if you cut your car behind the front windshield and weld the rear section of the 2+2 to it! (the center console does fit btw) Engine is the same, the exhaust is the same diameter but taller (so wont fit) though the section that goes over the rear wheels fit in coupe and vise versa, welding is probably required. Also ... try to search as this has been covered a million times!

They did! The stock (non m3) E30 trailing arm angle is 15 deg ("sweep" angle) BMW Motorsport offered a special Gruppe A subframe and trailing arm combination which employed a 12 deg. trailing arm angle. Thus altering the camber curve for the trailing arm over the entire motion. In other words, from 0 deg. through 90 deg. And there is an intresting site on this in German so i translated the outcome of it, here you see the graph of a stock and 12 degree angle through its motion (see negative camber gain graph) The attached graph shows the obvious, the rear wheel on a trailing arm gains negative camber as the suspension compresses. Two curves are shown, one for the standard 15 degree trailing arm angle, and one for the Gruppe A 12 degree trailing arm angle. In terms of the effect on chassis, the primary difference between the 15 degree and the 12 degree trailing arm angles is that the 15 degree setup gains more negative camber as the trailing arm moves up in compression. The same goes for the changes in toe in and out during travel of the suspension, the rear suspension gains toe-in as it compresses past the horizontal position of the trailing arms. (when moved [ast the horizontal position of the trailing arm the inverted wil happen) As with the camber curves, the toe curves show that when the rear trailing arm is rotated through 90 degrees, the toe angle becomes equal to the "sweep" angle of the trailing arm. The other thing is that the 15 degree trailing arm sweep angle causes the rear suspension to gain additional toe-in as the suspension compresses (vs. a 12 degree trailing arm angle). Thus the net effect of going from the standard 15 degree sweep angle to the optional Gruppe A 12 degree sweep angle is that the rear suspension experiences less camber and toe change as the wheels move up and down. But also note that this is not necessarily desirable. You do want some gain in negative camber as the suspension compresses to compensate for chassis roll in cornering. (It would be nice if it did not change during acceleration and braking but try figuring that out!!) A small amount of toe-in as the outside rear wheel compresses in cornering is also nice, as it adds a bit of rear-end stability. Hope this helps. So what I basically want to do by adapting the trailing arm is making sure i can alter the angle and mak sure i start out horizontally.

Like it!! though i want to do it with heim joints. Are all the bushing aluminum ? and did you have those made or ? My idea is more to what the m3 dtm cars did My set up will be like this. it is like they did on a group A e30. These 'barrels' are for sale at e30 specialty shops, aand should be welded to the ouside of the trailing arm giving control over the camber aswel. Im ordering these in the next few months .. then lets see what it brings! This set up gives you all the control over 'toe in and out' aswel as making up for dropping the car. Your set up just makes up for the drop of the car leaving the rest fairly unaltered. I want full control as the stock set up has a fairly high 'toe-in. So for a slighty dropped street driven car with i.e. tockiko's this is teh way the go.. if you go lower with coilovers orso this still doesnt cut the cake!

Yes you still need the rear sump pan, or covert the existing one

you dont need to .. it slips right in using r31 skyline mounts !! it sits on teh stock cross member even !

I think it is a liability thing more than anything else. As we all agree here for something that 'does not fit' it sure bolts in nicely and from personal experiance (i had several 2+2 wagons) they work fine, you dont need anything stiffer on the back.

I have question. I have to assamble my BW t5. and it is bolted up right now, but i have the feeling it doesnt shift rigt laying next to the car. Does it have to be set in a certain gear when installing the top cover? or not ? Im talking about this cover: I just want to be sure before i fill it up with oil and start the car granading the gearbox, as they are far and few over here. So any help would be wecome.

Nice base car man!! (sorry i have a thing for slick tops) Can you say RB or 383

haha lets hope he does or uses springs of a Baja racer But guys lets keep focussed on suspension tech.. i dont want to be an ass but lets keep it a topic that could be a sticky if valueble enough, how to swap tociko's should not be asked here but searched. Lets see what really can be done to make ZX handle and with what set ups. the option for coil overs sofar are: -Use an s13 set and adapt it. -Fabricate your own. - Have a set made by i.e. Intrax ( us1000 per side) For normal struts -Tockiko's -Koni's (can be revalved to suit application) -Bilsteins For springs -suspension tech -Tockiko -eibach Rear camber adjustment -move/adapt pick up points, jet i havent seen any pics for it on a s130