frank280zx

That is because it is A Volvo not an AMX a p1800ES to be exact

ITs not an s30 but it is the same cage copied from an s30 (allot of tubes are the same, apart from teh front legs, the front wiendshield rake is teh same as a 911 I dont know if these pass tech for SCCA or NASA But i guess John can pitch in on that. Apart from that i have seen a topic like this before with some really good examples ill lik those below. Note that before you build your cage that for some classes they update the rules frequently. So you best off to buy the rule book or call a competent builder. And if you really insist of welding yourself, get it checked out before putting it on the track! For rule changes see this for example http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/91482-scca-cage-rule-update/page__p__866576__hl__roll%20cage__fromsearch__1entry866576 I know builders in Europe have to proof the pentration of the material etc etc to get a cage pass. A bad weld will more likely harm you than safe you. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/90004-why-there-are-roll-cage-rules/page__p__855106__hl__roll%20cage__fromsearch__1entry855106 Now imagine a weld coming loos and a sharp piece of tube swinging at the driver!!! If it is mainly a street car more than a hoop or a NHRA 6 point would not be advized as id will harm you more than do you good without a helmet (ever had a baseball bet swung at you by major leage player ?) the area it concentrates on is much smaller than it would be without a cage.. anyhow on the fun stuff: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/84521-s30-roll-cage-examples/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89315-roll-cage-designs/page__p__847862__hl__roll%20cage__fromsearch__1entry847862

how about Nissan Europe for about 100 for a set ....

Check your oil pressure sounds like you have rod bearing on its way out!

Id do that and check the drive line angles as it sounds that this could be an issue to, Im with Hoov, a weld should not break..

Thanks im looking into that one! Like said my block is nothing really fance apart from the fact im running MsS and some visual goodies (patriot heads are not top of the bill either) comp is around 9:1 and it has a 272 duration cam at .48 valve lift. It wasnt built by me so i dont have all the specs. And im a big noob when it comes to SBC so it is a nice learning curve I’m on! Could this combo make about 300 to the wheels? Like said this will do for now to work out all the ods and ends in the car to make it a stable platform, and to upgrade the gearbox to a t56 (it has a t5 now but I’m afraid that wont stand against a bigger SBC) then i want to go to a 383 or possibly a 400. Something with a broad road race power band. I read allot of your post and well that is a learning curve on its own

I have been lurking eBay and whatnot, I have a 305 (I know, I know better to get a 350, but i live in the land of $15 a gallon gas where these are not widely available) And it has the patriot heads etc, Nothing to fancy just Xanders old engine. It has FI. the only FI manifold i have found is the one it is sporting right now (the victor high rise) Problem is that apart from the fact the hood doesn’t close, witch is just a hole in the hood away from being fixed, The gas speeds aren’t optimal on a 305 IE it is to big. Are there any other manifold that are suited for EFI. The goal is to built a 383 in the next year and that high intake is perfect for that.. Just isnt all that for a 305. Im looking to get about 300HP out if it witch will be cool for now untill i finish my 383.

-If you blew a HG you will smoke white and overheat -To be sure CHECK ALL cylinders and do a leakdown on it -If you blew a hole in piston you will smoke BLUE (i.e. Oil) and your vents will bollow smoke -It sounds like an electrical issue What are you running in the car engine management whise? MsS i think (from your sig) i think you fried something else in the MsS

Also dont stitch wel behind the rear strut towers or in front of your sway bar mounts. In case of a mishap you can repair it easier and you give the impact force a place to go (ie curl up some frame rails) if you stich it all the way through it will tend to tweak the frame more if the impact is strong enough.

Junkyard hub an idea ? i know r31 skylines do .. but hey ... they are even harder to find

Well if i would redo it now id go with a painless set up .. good part being you know how it works and where they run. making troubleshooting a hell of allot easier. The cost about 300USD with the fuse box and relays! Plus you dont have to invent it all yourself. I have worked with a harness of them in our track car and i loved it!

Your angles on your LCA are way to steep .. it will couse far more body roll than you want ( and im going to leave the fact your bumbsteer issues that arise from this) Youl need 'roll center adjusters'or bumb steer spacer for this !!! BUT that car is sexy!

Looking foreward to see a vid of that ! Great build!!

Now that is a serious engine! does he have to car to go with that engine?

Agreed.. though 1100hp is stretching it! I also wonder how long lifed a 9K rpm drag engine is (the 400HP engines this topic is all about) I bet it wont last 50k miles either .. maybe 10K at most ? And on full load (like 30 hour life span of the 1100RWHP is based on) its life span becomes measured in hours aswel. I bet the 1100RWHP engine could go for longer than 30 hours aswel if being street driven (not that it would be very street able but you get my point) My question with all this would be how durable are these engines in 400 HP form?

Actually those engines had a life span of over 30 hours amazing to me but a fact! The reverse engenering comes in to the fact that isky put in allot of work shadow lining Nissan Products. They got no answers from JAPAN and not some stateside office like you claimed some post earlier, Ron and Ed told me Japan wasn’t going to help out with information needed to campaign their Nissans in competition. The significance is that another small Company... with dedication (isky) is doing the same for the US market. Im not writing of any of Kameari's products. and if I would I would do it based on the prizes the US market tends to ask for the products, as for that money you can do better (pricewise) in my book. Nobody is putting down any of the Japanese market. As for Pommy .. wiki is very knowledgeable. But for a good viewing watch the world fastest Indian. It’s a great movie! And it gets explained there and im sure you would aprieciate the movie! Now if only someone would make some decent headers for the L series (like the kameari ones but for LHD) as the MSA units a great but for all out RPM performance not the best you could do by a long shot. I love the Kameari Collectors! if seen that is some custom Shelby exhaust before!

Alan, why act like such a pommy... You have a wealth of information .. maybe you should pitch in instead of stirring up the pot giggling over the idea that you put one of your o so smart comments behind a cup of tea, not contributing a single point to the topic… I say BRAVO for that! I stopped to wonder your reasoning behind the attitude you display. Anyhow it is EXACTLY how I meant it, in the states the Kameari stuff is fairly steeply prized (though you get what you pay for) So why as a US citizen jump the Hype and not use the expertise available there to reach the 400HP goal. Witch can be done using parts made in the states aswel, and even if you go all out custom it still would be cheaper than sourcing the neat kameari stuff. Though Andy Flags/Tony d's 2.0 liter makes over 200 at 10k RPM with fairly stock parts! and doesn’t seem to get pulled apart every other mile. The 1100 RWHP comment was meant to show that US builders made high revving L gata's or did you think those 1100 horses come to the table at 6 grand? For some reason on there is a sort of idea alive on this board that it is some sort of magic to get an NA L to rev. I’m just pointing out its has been done allot over time, Stateside, naturally in Japan but also in the UK and Europe, and that you can get information and parts to support this closer to home (thus cheaper) And in that comment im not putting down any Japanese engineer or builder, respect to whom it deservers.. the guys that actually build these engines… For my FIA car being build I’m running 13.5 comp with a fairly steep cam..Bbut im only looking at 8,5 grand in revs and don’t need much or than close to 300rwhp for starters. Do I look at kameari parts for this ? naturally! Do I think the brand is overhyped in the states? Yes I do! Does this mean I put down Japanese engineering ? No I don’t. Still ill put it out again… 1100RWHP!!!! On an l28!! Not l30 or whatever… I kind of boils down to 400 NA HP don’t you think..

Those cam numbers don’t seem so special. Iskanderian has been making asymmetrical cams for years. The .600 lift seems to be on the small side the duration too. I guess it has a bigger duration but I don’t see overlap mentioned anywhere, In a radical cam i have seen overlaps up to 94 degrees! Schneider is a Playschool cam in my book.. Not suited for any serious L series built I used it after a Isky Turbo grind made to my specs .. and it just well wasn’t a good cam at all.. I don’t get the Whole Fuzz about the Kameari cams while you have ISKY .. Remember they made 1100 RWHP !!! on his reverse engineered cams .. and he is just a call away and far less than 1200 USD !! for just a cam. Call Ron and tell him what you want .. Im sure he will be helpful..

See john ... did i plant a seed there !! these are exactly them ...All yours need is about 3000 hours of work put in

Doing so. and i hear no real problems )other than problems an internet business has.. but contact is really hard i cant reach him etc etc .. and still no money, it kind of ads up to a point the feeling of being ´screwed´is knocking at your door.. Ill keep you guys updated

Just a heads up: There seems to be a problem with delevering seal kits for early datsuns... But they are listed available on the site of Too Intense Restoration, so i went ahead and ordered. After some mails he replied after i told him i would be in CA teh next weeks ( so that was after 4 mails) and then promised a full refund. I still havent got it .. Good thing im still here so ill drop by his store to see where my 330 USD went.. I hope he pays back .. but service is not what it should be .. and he is very shady with it.. Sad ias he was the Prez of group Z and seems to have a good rep... I ordered on 10 Mar 2010 still waiting for my return, yet i get no replies on mail nor calls!! Too Intense restoration: Owner Troy Thacker 15752 S Myrtle Ave. Tunsin CA 92780 (714) 742-3308 Ill update on the situation i'll swing by his place this week to see whats up .. I bet he is not expecting that from an overseas order Anyhow i hope it is just a misunderstanding or something ... but i wanted to give a heads up Frank

that in my book would not cause your problems (unless your plugs are fouled with oil!)

Seems all is within spec ... I had a similar problem with correctly gapped plugs .. they where Bosh platinums .. they did exactly the same!! switched back to NGK's and my problem was gone. (apparantly our l's dont like nifty high end plugs) So what plugs are you running ? to cold to hot? wrong brand ?

what would be....

Techno toy tuning makes adjustable TC rods Techno toy I have them they are seriously over built (so no change is tose snapping!! your frame rail will rip apart before tose go).. but they are quality for the prize! Next to that they have roll center adjusters and camber plates of similar quality