Tony D

I will not be holding your hand and taking warm showers with you...

Exactly the piping pieces I used were as follows: Piping Elbow of various configuration. Piping of straight length in determined dimensionally. More piping elbows suitably fashioned for perfect fitting and good looks. Even more piping elbows of considerable finesse and tact. Shorter straight length of piping most difficultly obtained and inserted firstly so as not to disturb subsequent pieces of assembly installed lastly. One elbow cut in half, somewhat obliquely for the final piece. Assembled were these pieces to complete the assembly quickly and professional appearance with good quality and first rate shine! What can I say, I work in China, your question was right up my alley!

Argh, not to be that big of an arse about this, but those of us replying would appreciate if you read the responses. (Meaning, yes, this is written with some malice and intent to be somewhat arseholeish due to mild irritation...) To Wit: "Better to check through the fill port and see if your outlet tube has some corrosion perforation... letting the pump suck air. If it does, look for another tank or try to repair the line. Cleaning the rust will likely only make the hole bigger. " How do I do this you asked? Sorry, my misinterpretation of asking a question already answered. In that case my answer would be: Drain the gas from the tank through the drain plug on the bottom of the tank. Jack the rear of the car up and place it on stands. Remove your right rear wheel, remove the shield behind (directly aft of) the right rear wheel. Behind it you will see the filler neck and hose, as well as the hose clamps that attach to the tank's fill port. Remove the clamps, possibly lift the filler neck assembly up and out of the way, but you should be able to work it out of there. At worst you deluge the J-Bolts and loosen the straps to semi/fully drop the tank. Look inside with a Torch, not a naked flame mind you, but one of those things you Americans call a "Flashlight"... If you don't want to go through all that, FWIW you MAY be able to see something through the fuel sender hole if you take it out (use a flat screwdriver, turn the locking ring to release, remove the sender and peer in with the torch (not the naked flame...) If it was me I'd drop the tank and see what it was. Doesn't take two hours down and two hours back in... this is less than a 6-Pack worth of work on a Saturday afternoon...

Better to check through the fill port and see if your outlet tube has some corrosion perforation... letting the pump suck air. If it does, look for another tank or try to repair the line. Cleaning the rust will likely only make the hole bigger.

The mod I was thinking of you blocked the pickup line in the block, and the suction and discharge of the pump screwed into a new pump end cover. Any clearance you might need for the swaybar is gained the same way as when you lower the engine in the chassis: Make a block that goes under the mounting point on the frame rail, and shorten the end links appropriately. You can easily gain 2" doing this.

Remember the flow available increases quite a bit by the -10 external oil line modification to the standard Wet Sump Pickup and Pump! And after that, there's Cleve's idea about that external mount Gilmer-Drive Wet Sump Pump arrangement!

You don't need track sessions to melt the plastic cover vent on an R180 for sure! I melted mine off towing a small trailer to Phoenix one summer. Went synthetic oil afterwards. The R200 is marginally better, but they still get hot. For someone driving the desert southwest at highway speeds...stick a VW Head Temp Gauge (thermocouple) on the cover and prepared to be amazed they last as long as they do!

Mark, If you still need some, let me know. I have a couple of sets of G-Nose (NIB Nissan and Replica) as well as Standard (NIB Nissan and Replica) light covers. For what I've seen, the replicas usually have a 'flat spot' in the compound curve on the standard covers, the G-Nose replicas are generally pretty close as they don't have that 'sharp point' that needs good vacuum and good buck to replicate properly. I travel a lot, so my response would be something that would likely be delayed until I return to the USA to be able to ship to you if necessary. These are still available in Japan, NIB and in Replica Form.

That orange one, add a 6" TREE growing through the spare tire area which has grown up to the hatch glass, broken it out, and then grown to about 20' tall and "I've seen that!" -- car sat behind a body shop near lake Huron in a small NE Michigan town for over 20 years. One weekend while passing through I went and harvested the early SU's and manifold since the engine was locked solid... The owner of the shop? "Oh, that orange Jag back there?"

Saw the advert for Great Wall "Wingle" and "CoolBear" in the Manila Bulletin today. Hmmmm, "Great Wall cB" would be my bet on the tagging... not that they are copying Scion directly like the Wingle copies Nissan... I guess by indirect default, according to the Advert, Nissan has in actuality had 'The best selling Pickup in China the last 13 Consecutive Years'!!! How come I think these are the automotive equivalent of the E-Bay GT35R.... For the SAUDI market to displace the Suburban similarly-doored: Wingle, successor to "The Deer"

For people in CA, it's easy to know if your car passes if you have the sound meter app on your smart phone --- you can read the procedure in the the CVC and set up the test yourself. Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeasy!

This is exactly, 100% correct, and is exactly what is meant by 'retightening'---back off maybe 1/4 turn and then bring back to torque specification -- One at a time. Some say up until you know oil has gotten underneath, but it should still be there from original assemble and not be displaced after a short stint of startup and run in. Under-Head friction accounts for roughly 75% of the rotary resistance you are measuring as 'torque'---breakaway can be 10-15% above set tension, in addition to relieving thread friction which may increase due to the threads 'settling' during the heat cycle of startup and run in. Do it at an 'equalized temperature' state. We have a HELL of a time with our field people torquing (stud tensioning) our impeller bolts while still hot. They are supposed to be back to room temperature before final torquing--doing this is wise with the head bolts as well.

You probably just turned them into so much scrap by burning out the coils. a 9V transistor battery is all you need to "make them click"...

In short, what all that says is "BECAUSE they exist in so many applications means the ENGINEERING BASIS for them is SOUND" What Gollum seems to be doing is discounting that engineering basis as "because so-and-so is doing it".... Did you ever stop to consider that the reason so-and-so does it would be because it works for them? The only way to know if it works for you is NOT to question why THEY do it---because THEY have something different that YOU! The only way to know if it works for YOU is to DO IT!

" they're the same exact company who made these oil jets all the rage as well. " I'm sorry, but that IS discounting the exact strong science behind them being added. I didn't know Honda did it. I knew Cooper Bessemer did it back in the 1900's. As Tim says the engineering basis for these modifications is sound, and well proven. Frankly, I had no idea WHAT Honda is doing, nor do I care. I'm not doing it 'because Honda now does it' nor am I doing it because Cooper Bessemer does/did it for over 100 years. I did it and was curious about it's application to THE NISSAN L-ENGINE because I haven't seen anybody do it, despite increasing the engine output 10X. We didn't do it in the VW air cooled engines because of the configuration and clearances involved. But (as I stated at the top of this page in fact) I inquired about this SOME TIME AGO but nobody else could answer specific application enquiries so I'm watching this thread for APPLICATION INFORMATION. For the ENGINEERING BASE, go to the Cooper Bessemer Engine School and you can spend half a day on thermodynamics equations and WHY they did it. I was there, they convinced me WHY it should be done. I don't need to revisit it. If you want to know why...read some more. it's all out there! They 'hard data' is in the equations and over 100 years of operational history. Hard fact of the matter is it becomes DAMN HARD TO APPLY in smaller engines operating at higher RPM's with limited oil pump capacity. The issue isn't WHY you do it, but far more geared towards "HOW" you can do it within the existing engine package. Generally these setups are done on engines DESIGNED to incorporate the provision. RETROFIT applications merely take KNOWN engineering principles and apply them to an EXISTING design. In this instance HOW is the only issue, as the WHY has been proven in too many other applications... As TimZ states in his last paragraph, the DIFFERENCE between Ceramic Coatings and Oil Jets is the difference between BURSTS of speed, and something operating CONTINUOUSLY at peak HP. My interest stems from the fact that the Bonneville Run will be at least 5 minutes each way at FULL HP. It's one of the reasons JeffP and I were running 5 minute runs on the engine dyno at 475HP to see what oil temp stabilization we got with cooling mods. Now, double that HP and you can see for a season of running, dyno tuning, etc you want all you can get in terms of longevity. The stationary engines run them because they run 100% load 24/7 and they don't want excessive heat in the pistons (even if they ARE cast iron, and already have been retrofitted with ceramic coatings...) The first step is getting them to fit. The second step is deciding if the stock pump will handle the additional flow, or if you have to go external-pickup or dry sump. The LAST step is to monitor and gauge benefits long term. The "WHY" that initiated the project really doesn't enter into the matter, that's pretty much black-and-white understood that the engineering basis for having them versus not having them tilts strongly towards having them when you can. When the L-Engine was designed in the 50's, there was no projection to have more than 1HP / CID. At that level, engineering economics don't dictate the necessity of the item. 2HP / CID, 3HP / CID, close to 4HP / CID---might want to consider it for OEM 300,000 mile reliability. Think of how many modified L-Turbo engines you hear of long-term 100K +, I'm only halfway there at the 2HP / CID and I know I made compromises in the build simply because of time... My next build I plan on having 100K + clearly in my sights and beyond with more HP. To do that, heat management on delicate aluminum parts seems to be a no-brainer! It doesn't have anything to do with what the Honda Boyz are doing. It has everything to do with what the Engineers at Cooper Bessemer worked out and proved on paper 110 years ago, and subsequently confirmed in that period in the field that does it for me.

Get them out of Oz, they have them there...

" I don't think they're used at all in NHRA top fuelers, " Possibly because they throw the pistons away after each run? "And honestly I'm not that knowledgeable about F1 history, but didn't the oil jets not get put into use until the high output turbo years? Which is relatively recent for the age of the technology." I believe this is exactly the conditions we are talking about, isn't it? 200HP/Litre+ Even though the F1 was more like 1000HP/Liter+ they were also Damocles Engines ready to blow at any second. This adaptation at a relatively low output comparatively is aimed solely at Longevity in an OEM application expected to last 300,000 miles. And if by 'relatively recent' you mean 30 years ago... Stationary Turbocharged Engines (or mechanically supercharged engines) have run cooling jets on the bottoms of the pistons since the early 1900's... The thing about looking at 'racing' engines is that compared to OEM Streeters, they can remove some things because they want others to last (see RB26 engine example from PMC, sacrifice piston cooling to keep bearings alive in race conditions)... Racing is a balancing act, and if your engine only has to last one pass...or one race of one or two hours duration---does it become important? If you plan on running 300K...you start looking at long term fatigue cycles and what you can do to lessen their severity.

The Opel? Yeah, but it wasn't beheaded like the photo in question. I wasn't going to get into comparative misery... Remember, the 1971 #5 Monte Carlo Rally fourth place finishing 240Z was found in a Pig Barn in Holland, you know... I don't have the heart to post those photos.

There you have it: "L28 R902746 " That "R" is 'Remanufactured' from a new block assembly as opposed to something like an ATK where the original Engine Serial Number is maintained. Though one would wonder why the tag doesn't match...

Irwindale, you say...

C'Mon Man! You've seen the EXACT Chinese knockoff's of the D21 & D22 currently sold there! I think "Great Wall" and "Wingle" are two of the names I've seen on them. Fill a container and ship 'em home!

Recidivism is not a problem in that court! Do they offer the same service for left-lane hogs, and people who don't use their winkers as well?

You're right! That poor VW T2 Van!

A guy that speaks Chinese... PM Me... Factory is in Shanghai--Songjiang. You know the deal, never let on you speak anything...

I got news, lapping of the bearings for the clearance you desire is something that happens a lot. Guys open these clearances for a variety of reasons... but understand the only time you really have pressure on it, REAL pressure is when the clutch is depressed. Any other time, the load on it is minimal... The oil wedge shouldn't have an issue at any other time. Chances are you were way tight! If it was on both sides... then definitely that is what it was!