Tony D

Generally, if you can arrive to a cold car, start it, and drive it on the freeway for 1/2 hour you will know anything reasonably knowable about the car.

Wow! I'm amazed. Water Cock passes muster, it must be automotive related enough. But if those little rubber moulding **** on your tire aren't moulding ****, then what the hell do we call them? They've always been "****" to me, same as the spacer **** on ceramic tiles!

That's because Fartcan or Fartpipe is a legitimate automotive term, like your heater systems water cock. Did you check your FB photos for my latest delivery, Ray?

They are all alarmingly similar. The earlier heads have much thicker walls around ports and combustion chambers.

Is that with, or without Molson's? The TRUE test of Canadian Workmanship. Some may want to copy a couple of the last relevant posts here relating to cooling effects and transfer it to the "24 page thread" (at least some links) so independent verification on timing and cooling effects, as well as relevant alternate methods are all in ONE place (kinda why an FAQ section exists, eh?)

Hardly breaking, please read the RECORD - you're 4 days late from the latest recorded vote date, and almost three weeks late from the original floor vote date when the SEMA newsletter first went out: http://info.sen.ca.gov/cgi-bin/postquery?bill_number=sb_1224&sess=CUR&house=B&site=sen

Did you read the last post on JNC's Facebook post? I was supposedly voted down last month on the 28th, but according to legislative record vote was supposed to be April 10th. http://info.sen.ca.gov/cgi-bin/postquery?bill_number=sb_1224&sess=CUR&house=B&site=sen So much for "recent breaking news"! Maybe the RBN is the vote sunk it... But the snail pace of casual Internet observers kinds keeps the pot stirred now doesn't it?

MAAAAAAAN!

Well one out of three survives the sensors. And ****. It's such a friendly word. Sound like a snack: cheese ****, corn ****, tater ****.... Betcha can't eat just one!

George Carlin is in revolt that his "Disney Sentence" is no longer involiate: We're gonna ****** that *****, put it in a box and hop the last train outta town...

There is supposed to be a minimum of three seconds to drop down above 3000... Five sounds like a simple adjustment per FSM instructions. This is an anti hydrocarbon emissions action. Snap throttle closing belches big gouts of unburned HC out the pipes, loading the catalyst bed which will make it heat up in stop-n-go traffic. It's still used today in the same way, save the computers are faster now so fuel-cut can take some of the load making it less noticable.

It is Man Cave. Snapon or Matco. Ikea is for Woman. Ugh!

It's a ***** to get to the wall he accessed with the drilling, but there is a LOT of casting flash that is in there that has to be removed before worrying about the bridge he removed. And if you have a dental burr and a narrow-nosed pneumatic head... I don't know the depth of the wall being removed from the photos, and there is the possibility of after cleaning of the head by conventional means, you have the interior ports cleaned via Extrude-Honing. But Extrude-Honing the water passages in the head would be insane. Nobody would ever go to that extent...

"You can buy V8 billit cranks all day for under a grand in all kinds of dimensions but there is a big demand. " Welcome to "Import Performance Charges" in the world of GM, Ford, and Dodge... Millions compared to thousands does that to pricing.

Necroposting apparently is cool now? How does Washington Smog/Emissions compliance relate to California again?

Nissan solved the non linear response curve for our cars where it is critical the pump not run dry (EFI) with a simple LED and capacitance switch. Who cares where the level is REALLY until you are below 1/4 of a tank... And more importantly when you have 40 miles or less left on the tank? A capacitance switch and LED does the last on very reliably. I've run bad gauges for years and simply refuel when the light comes on! I got a feeling most people do. Set it to three gallons level, and you're more than safe...and on the stock assembly that's an easy tweak away!

Actually the casting bridge / flash he removed was covered in the 24 page "help" thread mentioned It can also be reached during head-work / preparation through the larger hex-headed Allen casting plug found at the top of one of the photos. Cleaning it with a burr during prep keeps you from having to do band-aids later on when you don't want to take it all apart again and look for a quick fix on the dyno. None of this is new.

I don't want to appear picky, but knowing the guy in charge of the Pinto Recall Campaign in SoCal, I have to say: if you use those J-Bolts and not the Nissan Blunted ones--reverse the orientation so they hook through the strap towards the BACK of the car, and not the front as shown. In a rear-ender the orientation shown can cause a tear un the fuel tank. A small difference mechanically, the difference between potentially life altering disfiguration in an accident. Old Andy, I'd suggest you swap your to that orientation as well. I'd hate to see tragedy from a bad, normally survivable accident. If not for you, for those that will have to (or currently do) care for (about) you!

357 miles with only one eye! Worked two days grinding and cleaning the body on my 71 Fairlady with junk flying everywhere (and me actually wearing a face shield for once!) -- only to have my right eye impaled with a rust chunk from water piping while taking a shower at the end of the day! Driving with no depth perception and a tube of visene dropping in the eye to get home! Then "needle in the eye & pneumatic grinder to remove rust ring" from my corneas has me still wearing safety glasses when I shower in older hotels overseas to this day!

"Bits n Bobs a Fine Engine Make!" LOL

Yes, OSG made gear drives for the TG series Toyotas--18RG and 2TG (3TG, etc...)

Your price point is fantasy. Don't bother asking the guys I mentioned, for what you quote Velasco's might do a nice race prep but you aren't finding a billet crank under $3500 is my best guess. Volkswagen T1 Billet Strokers were 749 about 20 years ago. Forged counterweighted Berg Cranks were 2500 then...

Really, the trailer was used for suitcases of my passenger and fireworks we bought along the way. I can't stress how nice it is to have an immaculately clean Interior on your z, and never having to put or recover anything from the hatch area. I literally showed up at a hotel, chained it to a light post, and drove the car in "full sport mode" to the local steakhouse. There just isn't much real payload capacity in a Z, and driving around former PRO-Rally stages with the hatch loaded sucked! The next year, I showed up-chained the trailer to an oak, and went on to show my son how to use the throttle to position the car in turns! Full suspension travel comes in handy in those instances. Loading and unloading the back of the car sucks. Even a tent with a couple if sleeping bags is nice to have on a trailer as opposed to inside the car taking up space best kept clear for rear speaker soundwaves...

Galerdi, we think alike! I recently picked up my Singapore/Malaysia/Thailand TomTom, and was thinking a PL510 Station Wagon set up to mimic the old Datsun Rally Support Vehicles would make for a popular vehicle through a similar route. RORO to Asia isn't that bad, and from Europe to the states even less! Really a round-the-world trip isn't out of the realm of possibility... Actually, the costs of shipping a car RORO from US to Asia is less than the cost of a hire-car for 20-30 days. You could float it down to S'pore, auto tour through Malaysia/Thailand/Cambodia/Laos/Vietnam for a month, then ship it back! Next year: Japan! I'm surprised more don't ship on a RORO from Europe/UK to the States--90 day import/re-export is duty free, and no matter what you pay for the petrol. Not that I've given it any thought, mind you!

Agreed: Mounts, Bigger Hammer, limit strut/chain/strap/link