Tony D

Why build around 87? Because when you're driving cross country on your special car and find the last station out of premium you can still fill and go like nothing. Tell me, why would you build to 91 instead of 87? Seems to me common sense says build to 87, run 91 and NEVER DETONATE. Then again, my car hasn't broken or blown a head gasket since 85... Running anywhere from 5 to 21 psi... So what do I know? BTW, I tuned to 85 octane MoGas as that was what we had. Coming here to the states allowed me to bump up a bit. I've seen more people blow their engines getting greedy on 91 instead of being happy tuning on 87 then running 91 as insurance. I like to actually DRIVE the car with looooong intervals between parts failures. Maybe that's why? And if you think building only 300HP on "low octane" is somehow expensive... What do you think I have in my dyno-best 375Hp setup (but which usually always runs at 350?) What's expensive is greed. More boost. More power. I know guys who have paid more for HEAD GASKETS to make their high-octane motors run than I have in my entire engine. In fact, I remember what I paid for it: $25, Two 25Kg bags of Calrose Rice, and a 1/2 Gallon of Segrams Whiskey. For that I got a JDM L28 N/A with 24,000 miles on it along with the complete maintenance history. The Triples were $242, the turbo manifold surge tank and turbo under $500 at the time. Considering Glidewell turned 288 at MSA this weekend and his setup is period comparable, I don't see where the big expense comes in tuning for 87... Other than he said he ran race gas and has a terrible surge box design... But I digress.

I run the equivalent of the Nissan Tropical Thermostat (72C / 160F) and don't have any of the problems people do running the Temperate (82C / 180F) or the Frigid... If its summer, and your temperatures will not drop appreciably below 21C, you're pushing it with "Temperate", if your temperatures are above 30C, you're simply asking for issues.

Look to VARA where class year prep is enforced as much as it can be to see what happens without production specials allowed.

Nigel beat me to it, a Swagelok SS6- something AN Adapter fitting will solve your issues. A/N 3/8" is -6 same measurement system Swagelok uses.

And I didn't infer the people competing didn't research or know, that was limited to your comment. Having watched original GT40's of LeMans vintage go into a wall three years in a row, only to be reconstructed each year for the next competition... And having personally assisted with the campaigning of a 67 Shelby Cobra Coupe with LeMans provenance (and valued at €3,000,000+) I would think a serious competitor wouldn't hesitate campaigning a $250,000 432... They do regularly in Japan. What it costs is a matter of scale in some instances. Comparatively the Gallardo was worth a bit more than any 432 might be... Original or Replica! Note as well I made mention that the specialty heads were not necessary to get comparable competitive power handily with production bits straight from the showroom floor. Which is what I thought this was about all along.

Show me a single CarreraRS 3.0 that went to a track for competition in Europe that wasn't fully prepped to Group 4 Spec... And EVERYTHING to do that prep was available to anybody who put the parts on the order form and laid down the money on your Datsun. In some instances Nissan installed these parts before the owner ever took delivery of the car...or before the car ever made it to a dealership. That sounds like the same as a Carrera RS 3.0 to me: taking delivery of a race ready car directly from the factory special Homogolation workshop... The only difference between a Carrera RS and the Datsun parts was the car was assembled in Europe for Homogolation and sold that way, whereas because of agent agreements Nissan made them as a "to order" basis.

WWII Fighter Jets universally had exhausts out the Center back of the fuselage... Obviously the 510 given as an example is RHD, which makes the modification far simpler!

OH, but before someone parses the fact someone said "L-Engine"... I'll note the L-Engines came with ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION and not the mechanical version used on the Z432R. And either the crossflow LY or Non-Crossflow FIA 6-Cylinders were a considerable improvement over the E31 and E88 heads used in public cars...though suitably prepped by competent builders should be handily spanking comparably period-correct prepared P-Cars! I mean, they got a 3.0 EFI engine making 230 PS weighing something like 2400#...check out Group4 Specs--that was where the car was built to work. The Datsun 2.4 was a 330HP setup in carbureted form... Using a 74 or 75 would allow the 2.8 and similar power with more forgiving torque. And that's the conventional engine...WITHOUT the LY or FIA speciality heads!!!

Better go back and read the FIA Homogolation Rules for the 240 before making such ignorant statements! That statement is so colossally deprived of cogent thought I don't even know where to start enumerating the shortfalls in facts it transgresses! BTW: quantify "bit"... As by my definition, a mechanically injected Z432R making 345+BHP sounds like it has "Bits" galore... And I might say that Slide Valve Injection sure as hell looks like the Kugelfischer setup on old P-Cars... Those Four-Pot Calipers, LSD CV Jointed Rear Running Gear, specially thickened structural stressed members, glass fibre doors, bonnet, boot and Perspex all 'round straight off the production line apparently don't qualify as "Bits comparable with Carrera Bits"... Differential cooler, close ratio transmission, radio delete, special sound deadening delete, lightweight door hinges... Let's just say some people THINK they know about racing Z's but in reality they don't know jack!

More paperwork for A/C? Wow, the "save the planet" crew is at work, eh? I thought you guys wanted a bit of warming up there?

Actually ctc nailed it: 80mm. That's actually 0.025" larger than 3 1/8" -- 3.149" Ain't nothin' on a Z-Car that's English Measurement...it's all millimetres! And that AFM got 80 of 'em!

My 46 DCOEs ran fine on a bone stock L28, tuned properly they are most definitely "not" too big! You say "chokes" below 3k when you go WOT. Check your acceleration pump stroke, delivery volume, and shot duration. In Japan now they are selling accel pump nozzles with multiple spray holes to better mix the accel shot than the old single spray setup. Also remember, if you don't have a lightened flywheel, this will make a big "bog" off the line. The airspeed needs to catch up with the engine... At low Roma if you are over-choked (too big) you will have this low speed bog as well. What chokes are in the bores? 30, 32, 34, 36, 40??? It isn't a Smsll Blovk Chevy, BTW. Going WOT before 3000 in anything but 1st gear is really poor driving technique.

This sounds like an issue transitioning to the mains circuit. You may need a different accelerator pump jet, a bigger idle jet, bigger main jet... When you put the car in first gear and just crack the throttle and feather the clutch to get the car moving, does it stumble at 2k? That test takes accel pump out of the picture. If you are idling fine, and can smoothly accelerate at 4000 in 4 th or 5 th, then likely your main is the right size. My bet is something clogged in the accel system, or an idle jet not large enough to feed the transition ports from 2000 to when the main jet starts tipping in at 3000.

I have a photo of that Savannah on my Facebook Photo Page...

Gogriz91, the car chasing something on the Okinawa Expressway was an RX7. There weren't any Z Koban Cars on Oki, but the Savannah RX7 ran the expressway. The Z's were in Kanagawa, on the mainland. I got warned by him in 84 after passing him at 200KPH... I stayed stopped at the Ishikawa off ramp at the light till he caught up and warned me over a tail lamp that wasn't working. Earlier in the year, when first on the island doing Togue Racing with a long-lost school acquaintance in his Toyota Carina GT the same RX7 ran us down, followed by the biggest Japanese I've ever seen pulling my friend Douglas out the drivers window, punching him once in the face, then doing a head slam twice on the hood... Followed by the entangled giant stomping to my side of the car and scolding me for letting him drive that fast (145 in a 30...) Then he said "You, safety drive! Friend no drive anymore today!" Wether that referred to Douglas laying in the gutter half concious and bleeding, or that he just thought the display would scare me into following the speed limits (uh...) I don't know. I never had that issue with the JP's. I think to this day Douglas got it because he wasn't wearing a seat belt, and I was... I got stopped for far mor egregious violations ("your car... I see UNDERNEATH!") and was always treated with polite disbelief ("Why you stop?") Z Stories from Okinawa? I got a ton! But what you CAN do is tell the pompous git who poo-poohed the existence of toll booths on the Okinawa Expresseay when I talked about them that they INDEED existed 25 years ago!

Re-Learning throttle modulation shouldn't take too long!

Oils WAY too heavy. Guy running heavy oil are usually compensating for errors elsewhere. A most excellent marketing tool was Texaco Halvoline, when sponsoring CART cars (Buick Stock Block Turbos at the time...) Those guys had cases of 5W30 just like you find at any auto parts store. And that's what they ran in the race! Filled it one quart at a time from the same plastic bottles you could buy. Heavy oil wastes horsepower. The Datsun L has a very well designed oiling system. There is no need for the heavy oil.

CTC is correct, except for pre-May 1984 engine swaps. That was the last time you could backdate an engine into a chissis... In other words, before most on this board were born!

Ahhhh! Bringing back more of the clear toasting elixir directly, eh?

Yes, I would not put it to pump suction, send it to the radiator either through the thermostat. The vagaries OC the internal bypasses for pump anti-cavitation are in the 24-pager as I recall...

Oh no...you just aren't looking in the right places Zmanco! Go to some Harley Shops and 20W70 and in some cases THICKER straight-weight is available! Air Cooled is a bit different than our mills, but generally higher viscosity is generally a cover for a compromise elsewhere...

Don't discount the stock early Datsun tanks! I corked mine up when I did the EVAP hoses and it held 7psig for 48 hours! The tank is sound, adapting the sensors...and more usually the filler neck and MODERN CAP is the most you should have to do. It just takes talking with the referee and explaining HOW you transferred the sensors and filler neck from the donor vehicle's tank to the S30 tank. The neck is a machined adapter away usually. I have seen referees say the tank has to be swapped because "The early tank doesn't have provisions for..." but discussing it with him and explaining how you transferred everything before he gets to that point usually stops the mixing of compliance. If you show you know what you are doing, and took pains to comply with a stock tank, they get impressed. And nothing says you can't shop referees, either! Or talk with them BEFORE you do the swap to see if they are willing to accept it. You only have to get through the referee ONCE. Once you have that sticker...everyone else has to accept it. Just because one referee says you have to change the tank, it doesn't mean the guy 5 miles down the road won't accept sensor swaps. Most sensors are low-pressure cap-integrity checks for the OBD computer. Many times putting a "T" into an EVAP line lets you use the sensor without penetrating the tank. The HARDEST thing I've found is getting the stock EVAP hoses to keep from leaking. I change them to 3/8 or 7/16" FUEL LINE and holding pressure ceases to be an issue. After the cap/filler neck adaptation, the ref can stick the tester in there, pump it up...and scratch his head in admiring, impressed, disbelief! The stock Datsun filler neck and cap don't have adapters available for them, so changing it make the refs job just like any other late-model. And that makes for a no worries pass!

Ditch the heavy oil, you are costing yourself horsepower. Verify with mechanical gauge. For all intents and purposes a straight 30 wt will handle your needs. The multi-vis is good for quick oil pump prime and pump-up to the top end. More important than high viscosity is the anti-scuffing properties of the oil. You can have 100wt in there and still wreck your cam without enough zinc in the oil!

I tried to give John C my second full size Bridgeport, but he turned it down. I would agree that a Smithy is a damn good thing to have, and will do everything mine will do for 99.95% of what you would normally do in the course of a project---all while having the advantage of being bench-top mountable. Actually it will do more than mine, because it's a metal turning lathe as well. Then again, as part of that $800 deal, I got a 17 X 48" Cinncinnati Milacron Lathe as well. Rotary Phase converters are a PITA! I would make note that the REAL SMITHY has a resale value VERY close to new purchase. They don't go down in value. I would personally buck up the money for the brand-name over the HF one, unless you wanted to intimately get acquainted with the machinery when you buy it by taking it completely apart, going over everything and accurizing it, and then using it. The HF stuff is O.K., but you have to take steps to 'make it better' if you want what you will get out-of-the-box from a new or even used Smithy! In addition, the Smithy is bigger than my 6" Atlas/Craftsman Lathe. But I hold out for that deal on a particular Atlas 10" lathe with EVERY attachment ever made for it---same guy sold me the Bridgeport, and just couldn't part with the 10". He offered it to me for $350 and last I talked he stuck to that price. For that price, I'll live with it taking up the floor space---same as I do with the Bridgeport!

Did I mention the 73 he wanted to trade was basically a TUB? No suspension goodies, just stock stuff. No engine, no trans... A rolling chassis freshly repainted black with big flares. Stealth Z and Corzette probably both know the car I'm talking about --- it was Rojer Puffer's 240Z minus the hood with retracting lights he'd had installed in 1981... When in your life will you ever get the opportunity to trade a SHELL for a complete car (1 of 417)... KNOWING what it was by then, and being HAMSTRUNG by the government paperwork...you think YOU GUYS hurt reading it. Try LIVING it, and then REMEMBERING IT!