Tony D

And remember, lack of a "muffler" DOES NOT NECESSARILY mean compliance failure, it specifically references SAE J1169 as the testing methodology, and a 95dBa limit. If you run a straight pipe, and don't make more than 95 dba when tested according to this standard....guess what? You don't NEED a "muffler" then! In that case, your pipes constitute an "adequate muffler"! (Turbo Anybody?) One that particularly upsets me more is the disregard for the prohibition of side-exhausts 2-11 feet from grade. I can't count how many jacked-up hillbillies in diesels now have side exhausts just about 3 feet off the ground to pump their overfueled penis-compensator exhaust right into the open window of my S30...

Cutouts are NOT 'illegal in California', it's operation without a muffler that is the technical violation. Herewith, I direct your attention to Subparagraph c: 27150. (a) Every motor vehicle subject to registration shall at all times be equipped with an adequate muffler in constant operation and properly maintained to prevent any excessive or unusual noise, and no muffler or exhaust system shall be equipped with a cutout, bypass, or similar device. ( b ) Except as provided in Division 16.5 (commencing with Section 38000) with respect to off-highway motor vehicles subject to identification, every passenger vehicle operated off the highways shall at all times be equipped with an adequate muffler in constant operation and properly maintained so as to meet the requirements of Article 2.5 (commencing with Section 27200), and no muffler or exhaust system shall be equipped with a cutout, bypass, or similar device. c ) The provisions of subdivision ( b )shall not be applicable to passenger vehicles being operated off the highways in an organized racing or competitive event conducted under the auspices of a recognized sanctioning body or by permit issued by the local governmental authority having jurisdiction. As long as you are using the car for racing, you CAN have a cutout on the car! And notice if you get your "local governmental authority having jurisdiction" to issue a permit, you can have one as well!!!

Are they? CVC section to reference? Other than they are HUGE and hard to fit in an already cramped Z-Underside...

That's the standard location for all the V-8 Powered Land Speed Z's out there that I see...

How does your medical insurance 'get pulled without your knowledge'? If you're a full-time student, you can be covered on your parents policy till 25. If you're not, I'm not sure what, but at 21 you should have that 80$ monthly policy for big catastrophic hospitalizations...

Mercedes units were 42# and barbed, weren't they? I think that is what JeffP used initially.

Mikunis and Webers are different animals when it comes to idle transition function. (It's why I prefer Mikunis.) As for tuning on the air corrector, I'd agree. Our Bonneville engine running 45 DCOEs ran 135-140 main depending on altitude density. It really didn't change that much. But emulsion tubes, and air correctors moved ALL OVER! The fact that you can go so rich says your main jet is more than enough for the power you're making. You just have to tailor 'how' the fuel comes into the engine, and thats air correction and emulsion tubes, main chokes, and booster venturis. You may have too much accel pump stroke on the bottom end, and once up high not enough air bleed to lean out the mix.Your main jet looks like it comes in at 3K, but then there is just too much sucking on the well pulling fuel into the engine as rpms rise. Possible a booster venturi is too small causing greater vacuum, but unlikely they're pretty forgiving. A bigger air bleed or different emlusion tube may change that delivery once the main is 'all in' at 3K

By "lifters" do you mean "adjustable pivots" or "rocker arms"? "Cam Sockets"? "Lash Pads from Timesert?" I'm with Sleeper Z---the lobe spacing is identical. You have an ADJUSTABLE PIVOT, ROCKER ARM, and LASH PAD in the mix. Adjust the pivot up to see where contact occurs on the WIPING PATTERN where the CAM LOBE meets the ROCKER ARM and where the ROCKER ARM meets the LASH PAD on the VALVE STEM. If these WIPING PATTERNs aren't centered on the wearing areas of the respective components, it's possible the valves are 'too short' and to compensate for this you will have to use thicker LASH PADS to get proper VALVE TRAIN GEOMETRY. Use of the proper terminology will help everyone understand what you are talking about, as well as give you a PLETHORA of SEARCH HITS which should explain this setup in detail (FAQ section will also help.)

Why on earth would you do that? If he's not drag racing it, there's really no advantage to an R200. I'd say before putting a heavy R200, and a Subaru R180 ATB or LSD would be a FAR better choice!

Have the Nissan North America HQ in your back yard for 20+ years, and talk with all the guys in the service department that were there when the car was new (and for that matter the company!)

Funny, on my L28 I took off the headers, triple 40 Webers, etc and restored it all back to stock EFI. Went from 82HP to 147hp at the rear wheels per the dyno. FELT a LOT SLOWER because it didn't make noise and all that, but track times and dyno numbers don't like like the butt-dyno. You will be hard-pressed to beat a properly functioning EFI system. Yes, even the stock one. Yes, even for power. Take a look at the "N/A 200 HP Thread" in the L-Forum and see what it takes to get more power from an L-Engine. $4,000 in heads, cams, carbs, and etc to get 50HP more than what the stock L28EFI produces on a properly-tuned STOCK L28. Curiously I had a CAI and Cone Filter on it initially.... all it did was make noise. I put the stock box back on with a K&N Filter for the 147HP dyno run. (And anybody telling you a stock engine with stock SU's responds better and makes more power without the air cleaner is....uh...."emotionally invested in his work" and has never dynoed the results of that work to see the REAL story!) But I hardly think that qualifies the system as "Sucking, especially for power." It's a simple system, and simple systems have limitations. It's nothing you can't work around. For years people were taking 3.0Liter BMW EFI components and refitting them to their 3.0 L-Engines and they ran flawlessly producing gobs of power. Same goes for the easily prommable GM systems, they have gone on everything from Jeeps to VW's over the years...It just takes knowledge. Today, EFI as a standalone is Cheap. But you still need knowledge. Anybody thinking carb are an 'easy' item to tune I got a few standard instances which will drive you crazy which NOBODY (and that includes some of the top carb gurus in the country on L-Engines) says are solveable. At some point on a carb, there will be things 'you just have to live with'... There IS a reason OEM's went to EFI, you know. It eliminates the 'you have to live with that' syndrome!

Oh that purple skyline.... Ohhhhh! Bad tony Baaaad tony!

" Told me that if was inspected, then it wouldn't have happened because it would be mechanically sound." Your Texas Cop was ignorant with that comment. Statistics show absolutely NO correlation between mechanical-failure related accidents and a State Inspection Program. In states where inspection schemes were in place, and neighboring states where no inspections were done, the incidence of mechanical-failure related accidents was statistically identical. "Safety Inspections Don't Work" Interestingly, the same study checked the effect of emissions testing, and there WAS shown to be a decrease in vehicle emissions where testing was in place and tied to registration.

Never question Jabba's SWAG's: He said 20 if not more, and curiously as Scott reports....24.6+ "Tankto Solex Gwaak Gwaak Powah toonta woookie!"

News: Black Pearl was port optioned, not sure on ZZZap Z, but that may well have been a Nissan North America Port Added Option as well! They left Japan without stripes.

And to mention: I have a slammed dually tow vehicle. As someone mentioned at 70mph on the freeway my tires are the bump stops. I have to run with a 3x8' 5/8" thick slab of diamond plate in the bed to give enough load to keep the rear tires from radical pogo action over even mild speed bumps. I would consider my truck borderline functional. I will likely raise the front 2" with springs soon simply to get practical usage back into it... Having blue smoke billow out of your wheel wells when a dip in the road is encountered is a bit ridiculous. But I go to truck shows and find them FAR LOWER than my truck. Literally in the weeds front-to-back. And they are UNDRIVEABLE. Sure they move...forward and back on billiard smooth surfaces and usually not more than 5 mph. If they want to move or drive to an event they pump the bags up, run adequate clearance for wheels and suspension travel normally encountered, and go for it. There is a reason the CVC states that no portion of the frame may extend below the rim line---if you loose air in the tire, your frame becomes your directional control meaning you become a guided missile in the last direction you were pointed. And if you should suffer a dual axle blowout (both fronts or both backs) its even more acute. Not to mention loss of braking ability (though your frame does a good job of that...) Nobody says anybody needs to have a car if a give height. But we WILL call BS on hyped claims of no affect on driveability. And I will categorically state, without reservation nor qualification that there is NO WAY IN HELL that car could be "daily driven" in the same uncompromising manner as my Blue Turd 260Z. I would lay money within a month's time daily commuting, the car would be broken hard. I drive my S30 daily in the real world. There is not a road I will look at and go "uh, no I won't drive there" (except maybe Watts at 2AM) AT THE POSTED SPEED LIMIT, without becoming a moving hazard to other traffic due to excessive, unreasonable slowing for the most mundane of driving obstacles. I can't say that for my Dually. And I lay money such is not the case for that car. For a magazine having in yhe title "Speed"---the car is anathema to that concept. The argument "not everybody wants to drive their Z at 100mph" is moot when "Speedhunters" is the title of the rag! I'd bet money the car would not, COULD NOT be driven at that speed on any common roadway. Not in a box. Not with a fox. It could not be driven here nor there, It could not be driven anywhere. It does not work, these slam-my-can It does not work my six-shooting' man!

Articles lie. Remember the "250GTO" Internet post of the "Car"Culture Show"... It was a 240 Z in a body kit. Speaking as someone who HAS "driven" cars that low since about 1984, I say it comes down to your definition of drive able. . The BRE Z was more drive able than this car, and it's higher. I "drove" our Bonneville Car for a while---we lift it 2" to go run Willow Springs. There's a reason cars like this that are driven use airbags: they way they are photographed "down in the weeds" results in an UNDRIVEABLE car. You are a moving hazard on the roadway you are so slow (and usually darty...) They may SAY something, but those are words. I'll put money on the guy with the Moped for five laps around the Albertsons parking lot in Richmond any day over this vehicle. Seriously, you actually BELIEVE this car is driven at any sort of normal speed anywhere? If you have, you've never been around nor in them. I'd suggest reviewing some Carlos Santana and "War" albums for appropriate subject listening. "low...ri....der....de de de de de, da da da da ta!"

Interesting, relay failure, have you opened to find what went wrong?

You really need to read the FAQ's... "fuel cut" ... ? Wow!

Unless you plan on super horsepower, extended racing track times, or running on the Autobahn for hours on end chances are good the stock Nissan unit will work fine.

Watch Craigslist, it's amazing what shows up! About the only thing I will change "automatically" is a water pump, oil and injectors give plenty of warning beforehand, and there are mitigating things to do in the interim to keep them going. Frankly haven't had to ever mess with the oil pump. You want a shiny silver surface around the entire periphery of AT LEAST 1/8" if not more. Take the time to do it as best you can now and reap the rewards of security later. Shouldn't have to take more than 1/8" off to get it flat. I'm pretty good with an 8" Wherl Grinder, I usually get close with that and then go to the sandpaper for final setup. It's a shame you weren't in league with a compressor guy that spends more time in the USA, he could take you to a shop and stick that manifold onto a valve disc lapping machine and have at it with coarse compound for a while... Then again, for that effort setting up a Bridgeport with a fly untying head would make quick work of it as well... After setup hassles were done!

CNG...

Cam timing shouldnt affect AFR. I suppose if you were really off and the VE dropped...but on a carb that shouldn't translate to much difference like a MAP based EFI. Get your AFR correct before chasing mechanicals. Is the fuel pump pushing too much pressure and sinking the floats? Is there a foaming issue that is pushing fuel into the carb throat where the AFR goes rich? The power loss directly coincides with the AFR drop... It should be relatively easy to sort the fueling and get it correct.

One rabbit stew coming up!

That's hand in hand with my Blue 260Z being awarded 1st Place 260Z OEM Class at MSA this year... The revolution has begun. Down with the purveyors of shiny bits and chemicals!