Tony D

Take your studs off and stone the entire surface. I've seen stock manifolds where the rust has made them rough, and old adhered gaskets were 'piled up' and leaked against the block. Tighten in the proper sequence and if necessary use a double gasket and some Red RTV. That drastic measure has stopped the worst leaks...which were eventually traced to debris on the mating surface once they were cleaned and straightened they sealed just fine. Of this I speak of the manifold to headpipe gasket. If this is manifold to head...then use a graphoil composite turbo gasket. They seal stock manifolds with considerable warpage without any sealant whatsoever. Flat paper gaskets just don't cut it, and the later graphoil gasket is 'universal' if not somewhat expensive. Then again how many other gaskets have you bought. Speaking of being in LA, you can go simply BUY graphoil gasket in sheet form. Worst case is you go online to McMaster.com and order some before 9 AM with a credit card. Usually if I do that it will be delivered UPS Ground by 6PM that SAME evening at my place out by Moreno Valley for typical UPS Ground charges...meaning CHEAP!

L20B, LZ24,SR20, VG... All been done, and then some more. The driveline is not hard to swap. I'd do it for the price.

I don't know what scenario would make it "go up" unless your reference was zero. You clamp it while running, and it will go up to fuel pump internal bypass pressure (about 60) which is why I said place the clamps immediately at time of shutoff. You will lock what pressure is in the lines and prevent it from either bleeding backwards through the pump, or from the FPR depending on where you place the VG. Don't overthink it, do the test and see what happens. Observe and report. It will come to you as you do it. We can talk all day and some people wont get it. The put the first clamp on and it goes 'flick the switch' OOOOOOOOOOOOOOH!

3X a Charm: "The first successful mass-produced EFI vehicle was the VW Type III with the MAP-Based first-generation Bosch Jetronic."

Similar to you, most people just outright lie to the revenuers to keep the costs low. I met someone in Belgium with this yellow car who was downright proud what he'd gotten by your Bureau of Internal Revenue... Not that I advocate outright lying. It's like taking parts across the border into Mexico. We continually have people down there ordering parts to be delivered to San Diego. Their managers come up, take them out of the boxes, and then drive them back across the border. Apparently if they aren't in the boxes, they are considered 'used parts' and therefore duty free... I'm sure coming to America there are similar quirks and loopholes. TABC in Long Beach exists solely as a way to beat the 25% import tariff on light duty commercial vehicles. Seems if you sent the trucks without beds they were 'vehicle, incomplete' and not hit with the 25% tax. Nissan would ship them with the beds detached and had them final assembled at the prep centre. I ship the cars to Rotterdam most of the time with the engines and transmissions separate or not bolted to the chassis so they come in as 'vehicles incomplete'---or simply parts. Last duty paid was something like 49 Euros...for 4 cars! Old cars nonetheless, but that's a damnsite better than what goes on in the UK. I should look into this, but generally it's stated valuation on invoicing. The harmonized shipping code would determine duty on a given shipment. It just matters what they are called. "Auto Parts" may have one class of taxes, while "glassfibre structures for mobile application" another.

Rochester Mechanical Fuel Injection was offered in the 50's on GM Performance Brands. Shortly thereafter there was an abortive attempt at EFI which wasn't so successful. The first successful mass-produced EFI vehicle was the VW Type III with the MAP-Based first-generation Bosch Jetronic. Yeah, EFI been on consumer cars since the 60's. The 1973 Tokyo Motor Show had a 260ZG-E 2+2 on the podium... Thank gawd for that, it made the link between the species for use on the 260/280Z on Bonneville-Bound Cars!

shared misery I suppose!

I got a coupla those brochures!

Discharge Check Valve on the pump. You can buy the replacement there is a part number (maybe Volvo...someone posted it) or add an aftermarket one-way valve. Chances are good it's not 'bleeding down' on the front end. The usual culprit on the front end is an FPR seat. With application of the clamps and gauges in various positions, you can isolate where your loss is occurring pretty easily. It's also been posted previously. "Walk the circuit" with gauges in place. Clamp before fuel filter and at 8 and see what happens to the pressure in the rail overnight. If it stays there, chances are the pump check valve is a leaker. If its bled down, then since the FPR return is closed then it's an injector leak of some sort.

My favorite shop floor cleaner is powder laundry detergent for high efficiency washers (in the old days, plain old tide...) It will degrease extremely well, not have a lot of harmful chemicals to screw with the lawn you inevitably hose it off into, and usually is already around the house! Broadcast it directly from box onto a spill, coat with a little water, and then using the red pushbroom from Grumpy's Link, mix it all together. It will emulsify the oil and break it down. The Tide rinses clear without leaving any residues on the floor. If you let it sit it will work on 'stains' in the concrete if unsealed, but there are powders specifically for that which will 'extract' the oil out somehow. I used it in the PetroChem plant I worked at years ago but can't remember it's name. Better than white bricks for getting up oil stains in unsealed concrete. Tide leaves my paint a dull matte grey when done...if I can look across the floor and see 'shiny' in the light, I KNOW something is there that shouldn't be. This is why I've always painted (sealed) my garage floors with MATTE BATTLESHIP GREY two-part epoxy paint. A shiny floor looks nice an all, but it hides gasoline spills, brake fluid, etc. A matte finish cleans up just as easily and when you see shiny you know: DANGER! I gave this last speech at a safety meeting at corporate HQ one year, and unknowingly changed company policy instantly. Apparently none of the safety gurus had ever considered the 'matte' as a safety point. Within a year all new plants were getting semi-gloss on the shop floors. No more high-shine sealants. Oops, didn't mean to make you spend money, sorry!

At 7 & 8 on your diagram.

Nope, it was a first generation Bosch License. JECS Box, looked EXACTLY like the box and loom you would remove from a 68VW Type III. If you look at some of the Rally Cars in 71-73 you will see on the door "JECS EGI" or something like that---those were the cars equipped with the EFI. Many times used because gas quality was not consistent during the rally stages (like East Africa...) and in the middle of the dashboard under where the heater controls were was a set of four dials that allowed tuning of mixture on the fly! The MAP sensor (no AFC Flow Meter for this system!) was large, like the little cans of Rolling Rock. Same as the VW or for that matter the early DOHC Isuzu Bellets (but the Bellet, being Isuzu was tied in with GM used REAL Bosch stuff on the production cars almost identical to the VW setup... The first generation Bosch was MAP based, the second generation was AFC (Air Flow Control) or Flapper-Door Metering. Subsequent generations simply changed the type of monitoring of airflow (MAF instead of Metering Flap AFM) and added O2 Feedback for some rudimentary fuel trim. If you look at the original SK or HKS Analog Fueling Computers, you will see similar four dials as the original JECS system. And everybody thinks SDS was the first with cockpit dial adjustment of fuel trim! (Not saying Nissan was by any stretch, but they did have this in the cars almost from DAY ONE.)

Yes, that is a VERY good point Howler---I was going to mention Honda used VV (CV) carbs WELL into the 80's. When you pull them off, they look very odd, nothing like an SU, but indeed look down the barrel and you see the same rising suction piston and jet needle. They do what they do very well, but like anything with emissions requirements, the tighter they got, the more complex they became. Most guys toss Flat Tops as being 'junk' mainly because of a misunderstanding of how they function. But really, Honda really doesn't put junk on their cars, and their 80's SU Style (VV/CV) carbs are a good example of just how nice a sows ear can be made if you give enough money to the engineering department! Swap to EFI, and you're done with all that complexity! You made me remember the Rochester Vara-Jet you BASTARD! I'd put that one out of my memory and you BROUGHT IT BACK!

^^^

All Archived. And yes, class rules dictate the carbs. It was the intelligent ones who figured out there was no advantage to Round-Tops, but rather the Flat Tops were preferable because they have a separate idle circuit. Meaning, unlike the Round Tops, you CAN have a nice, properly adjusted idle mixture, and be fat rich for peak torque and power off-idle. It won't load up idling at the gate like a rich round top setup will. The key is the transition plumbing. But I'm having an especially trying day and don't have the energy to elaborate. Just about anything you do with round-tops is applicable to flat-tops, other than the idle circuitry, and the power valve. My preference is 73's since they have a larger float bowl than the 74's but look almost identical. You can make the needles pig rich and still have idle correct on them, you don't have to compromise between 'right at the top end, or at the bottom end'... Get a real EGR and stop looking at EGT other than for plugged jet diagnosis. The dyno tells all. Good Luck. This comment, though: "Ive heard the flat top carbs are better used as a boat anchor lol. Get some refurbed roud tops from z therapy and they can install some better needles for you I think. Way worth it. They're better then new when you receive them." Just makes me weary!

Tell me about it. Right now there is a prospect of a month on Brunei, which would be boring s hell. But those economy flights to Manila could have me at the apartment relaxing CHEAPLY! even Singapore to Manila on REAL airlines is dirt cheap! Like 60 bucks each way!!! It beats sitting in a tin can for 14 hours, only to turn around and come right back a couple of days later!

Oooh! Nice driver!!!

Boys and girls, can you tell everyone which year those "Nissan" ITBs were introduced? It's earlier than U think!

Caterpillar introduced waste heat recovery where a second turbine wheel is in the exhaust stream dowstream of the turbocharger and it drives a starter gear engaged on the flywheel ring gear (through a fluid coupling) 2-3% power recovery. That's significant on something like a tractor which is just now coming under pollution control. 3% mote power to the ground without additional fuel in the fromt end! I thought it was neat as he'll!

I'm with PMC on this one... Personally I'd heat the stub red hit with a torch and hit it with a stick of beeswax. Then I'd lay a nut over the top of the stud, and weld that nut onto the top of the protruding stub. As stated a MIG makes thus child's play. Another dash of beeswax, let it sit for a few to gain a little torsional strength and let the beeswax wick down and lube up those threads nicely... Then take a spanner with a 2# deadblow, a quick whack to shock it free, and then twist it right out. I did this technique with heat and beeswax in China during training last month and you would have sworn I was the Obelisk in 2001 the commotion I started. Then it was "no no no, not Bee BRAND, bees wax.- made by bees. You know, BEES" (I make like a puffer fish going BZzzzx BZzzzxz!?!?) you know BEES? like make honey (make vomiting flow with hands gestures) this comes FROM bees, NOT. Bee BRAND!" It took a while but when they all started spontaneously making buzzing noises and nodding their heads collectively in the affirmative, I figure they got it!

I knew someone in Service Group for Ford back in the late 70's when there was a BDA put into a older Capri. They would give it to secretaries to run errands with because they always shifted before big power was even close. Then a bunch of fat White engineers in White shirts and ties with the requisite "Falling Down" glasses would pile in and go looking for muscle on Woodward. Thing had some ridiculous gearset out back and if you matted it and held it there when the power hit... Standard truck was to short shift just before the cam came on, then take 2nd to 12,000. As he said: "Man, that thing was a hoot to drive!" I wonder what happened to it? TimZ???

Have you pulled or shorted spark leads one at a time and then in pairs to rule out the most common cause for "knock": rod and main bearings? A timing chain doesnt knock!

You would remember Jaguar or Arena...

Amen bro! We love ya... But to paraphrase Clint Eastwood in "Heartbreak Ridge": "But this don't mean we're gonna start taking warm showers together!"

Haggerty has never had a mileage restriction. It's a pleasure vehicle clause. It was most of the " other big guys" that put things like club events, parades, and mileage restrictions on the policies. Many STATES have restrictions due to road use taxation and special status plates/tags. That is altogether irrelevant when discussing insurance requirements!