Tony D

There is something wrong with the site, or posting from Red China, because I posted that ONCE! But for the record, Glyptal has been used for years.......

Was that a criterion of the design? And yes it would work on-off boost conditions such as track usage, it's all a matter od engineering for the conditions present. There will be recovery time on most any track, but then again I thought this was for a street car?

Yeah, I made the observation that during a rainstorm as a passenger in a Jeep you should carry the wallet in the left front pocket, but if in a tricycle you get wet no matter what... Just got back to Shanghai from another two weeks there, between Manila, Pasig, Lucena City, Cavite, and Batangas region... No midget lady boxing...shame... I knew the rules, I lamented being stupid enough that I didn't follow my own rules!

Just as a guideline, talking about 'a compressor too big'... for a cooling effect of 1000cfm of air to 35F will need around a 7kw refrigerant compressor. That size compressor will continually cool 1000cfm of air to 35F 24/7/365 and be in CYCLING service meaning the compressor will not run continuously to achieve that level of cooling. So, what will the performance increase be of cooling the intake air under boost from 9 degrees above ambient (general ballpark for standard Air-Air I/C's) to a consistent 35F. Depends on what your ambient temperature is, I guess huh? At 110F intake manifold temperature (around 40C) I can see 2C generating some good power numbers. Will it be 7KW? Does it need to be? If the pump is shut off during boost (like most A/C systems are) then thermal-mass of the cooling block can take out the heat so it's not pumping when power is needed. On a larger engine, this would be easily accomplished with that kind of density change. On a 3 liter it's close and yes, it works. Makes tuning the car under boost a lot more consistent on the dyno as wel... but some things remain sealed in the vault. Sorry.

This is incorrect and has bee proven in both concept and functionally. Run just about any turbo car at full boost for 30 seconds and you are at a speed where it is impractical to continue accelerating. The Accumulator only need take peak load for 30....maybe 45 seconds tops. Anything else is easily managable. The larger accumulator the SMALLER the pump you need. This is a fact, and the motive behind governmental mandates in the compressed air industry currently. It's working it's way into chillers now as well since they are the same items. As I said, if they can cool the ENTIRE ENGINE with freon, cooling a piddling air cooler from 260F to 35F is nothing. Water storage adds weight which becomes nothing more than ballast once the ice is converted to liquid. If you are suggesting cooling water with the freon, and then using water to cool the air, that is a two-step process with multiple conversion losses. It is FAR more effective to use a proper accumulator and small pump to handle the impulse loads. A turbo's heat output is not constant, this is not a diesel hauling up a grade. The same rules of system recovery (that the pumping of the freon occurs during times when you are NOT at WOT and 'needing' all power) still apply. This was proven to work at Cal State Dominguez Hills in an Automotive Technical Program Project in the mid-late 70's. The horsepower added from more than perfect intercooling during times of boost was more than the parastitic losses of the pump running. Yes, the pump ran when not on boost and you lost power there, but the power differential from cooling intake charge to a consistent 35F was building power on a much greater scale than conventional intercooling of the same engine system.

Everybody uses glyptal for sealing casting sand in and smoothing the interior of the blocks for oil drainage when you don't want to spend the time grinding the castings flat. If it can withstand 450F in an electric motor 24/7/365 a couple hundred hours at half that temperature should not be an issue...

"Think on this though, your factory AC system is just cooling down ambient temp air, and not at nearly the rate a turbo moves it either." Think on this though: Proper Capicitance in a system allows a FAR smaller compressor to be used to handle impulse loadings than otherwise would be necessary. If they can cool the engine with Freon, simply cooling intake air would be a cinch...

You've only seen one like that Ray? You have never been to my place... Stailess Steel Versions were available (400 series) Blue painted ones were Trust/Greddy Green painted ones were OS Red painted ones were Fujitsubo That was 'the standard header everybody had' on an L-Engine in Japan from the mid 70's when Trust started selling them (before that, Nissan Sport Parts has some similarly configured ones available) My Trust header was bought and put on a car in 1978, daily driven on the mainland and then shipped to Okinawa, where it was daily driven until it was sold to me in 1986...and it's been on one of my cars (along with the matching exhaust...bet you want photos, huh Ray?) ever since. The exhausts that bolt to that are still available in Japan. My last example I bought out of a Scrap Yard for 700 yen (at the time slightly less than $6...but there was a time that was about $2.50!) New they were around 45,000 yen. The Stainless versions are higher... That should be dumping into twin 50mm tubes. This is a very close replica of the Nissan Factory Header for the L-Engine, and the exhaust on that setup is why the 240's had two divots in the diffy front X-Member. The Fairlady 432 had twin 60mm tubes off of it, but looked similar. It's like the aftermarket basically copied the 432 setup.

If you are properly driving the car, 'lag' is a non-issue in modern turbocharged cars... /Forrest Gump Look/

Warren, you have to get into a car to put it on a trailer? I thought that was what the remote-control battery powered winches at Harbor Freight were for...

We triggered the bonny engine from the distributor quill, using the small e-motive wheel. As for the blocked water passage, there has been one guy here (ahem) talking about removing the internal bypasses back to the inlet of the water pump to maximize cooling flow through the block for some time now and (sniff sniff) he's feeling a bit put out that nobody has listened and immediately recognized another "lost performance cooling modification" for the L-Gata! That goes for the -3 AN lines as well. Take a look at the discussions on the #5 Cooling Thread and all will be alluded to, if not outright explained... Some people plug the return in the block with a flushseal plug, but putting aluminum in there does the same thing.

Titanium Tubing with shrunk on rollercam-lobes and shrunk-on journal bearing surfaces...just like large industrial engines have been using for years! Maybe an aluminum/titanium lobe drilled for lightness and with a hardfaced skin coating or surface treatment. Then you have the ultimate in low-weight for best acceleration as well!

First thing I thought of was 'why the low rpm limit'---short of using CAST pistons, there is no way I'd limit an L-Engine for endurance racing to that low an RPM range. 7500 would be a 'streetable' engine, and at least 8K for a track engine. That is WELL within the 'longevity' range of an L-Gata. Though the romance of antiquated balancers may prove your undoing...I'd skip the vintage stuff and put it on a shelf for lookin' at, and put a properly designed modern damper unit on the engine for the best results. "Vintage" and "Longevity" are usually mutually exclusive. Just my thoughts. And don't get stuck on catalogged grinds. Call and talk to Ron and give him your engine details. They will custom tailor the lobe centers, split the duration and grinds, all sorts of things to come up with a cam specifically for YOUR engine. It won't cost any more or any less than buying one out of the catalog, and you can send in a good 'JAPAN' core for the grind, getting better compatibility than the CWC core used for their stocking grinds.

Since that post Jeff P dynoed on a Mustang at 475HP on his stock bottom end. Limited accordingly because of not forged parts!

"Engineering has made me more money than I did in the pipe trades." YOU, sir are highly compensated! My friend recently came out to the west coast with his son. Terrible thing to say but the kid inherited his mothers oraungatan-look and brains to match. I showed my son an East-Coast Union Pipefitter making $100,000+ a year and said "If that's what you want to work WITH every day, then don't go to school! You CAN make a lot of money...but consider the environment!" He went, in earnest, to the local community college and REALLY started pressuring the counselors for the classes he was missing the first semester!

"Really sad when so much credence is blindly placed on a piece of paper, and a person is put on a pedestal, fabricated solely of certified books that have been checked off and stacked." You and I said the same thing...save that I basically stated "those uninitiated can't (or rather, shouldn't if you prefer) use the term..."

SO what do you do when you win? Victory lap! Both hands on the wheel, please! Both Hands on the Wheel, PLEASE!

According to the scales at San Antonio Dragway my 1976 2+2 with my 255# body inside it weighed in at 2695---seeing it runs 15.50 in the 1/4 at just under 90mph, that seems a reasonable engine power level for what I've done to it...

I would say 'Grease Monkey' should be reserved as a pejorative term... I worked with guys who called themselves that, and they had 4th grade educations (and had been through the war...) But it's like some other words wherein those who participate may call one another this, but it is taboo for those outside the frat to call you that same thing. Just my opinion. I'm not big on using that term though, I find it pretty dismissive for the very reasons it was used in the above post.

I think 1 Fast Z was being facetious... But anybody with a balancing machine should be able to set up just about anything that is round and can be spun, and get a vector and imbalance reading on the machine. From there you can correct for it.

I'm on the last line: Swap the sender from the tank you removed and your problem is solved: instant compatibility! They are direct swappable with the ring removed.

My camshaft operates at a higher rpm than most people's crankshafts...

But they don't!

"Or I'd read/watch a review and some people who are really into guns will poopoo a firearm because of very minor things." That's like watching people here discuss cams...or minutae thereof hinging discounting an option entirely based on a single insignificant variable...

"It is unfortunate that in this country a bachelor's degree in ANY subject has become a "checkmark" item for so many occupations." This, too, I have to agree with, sadly.