Tony D

It's JSper Engines...right across from the Hiloday Inn... Been there... This is a commercial rebuilder, not necessarily a specialist builder of L-Engines. It's a typical domestic commercial rebuilder throwing what they had together with what fits. The O79 came with flat-tops for NA. The P90 came with dish tops for Turbo. If this isn't forecast to be a Turbo Application, you have the wrong bottom end for the application and it needs to be changed, period. Unless the trip is to Mexico and you plan on running 80 octane Pemex strained through your hat. He never states if it's a long black or short block he has...the head really is irrelevant until he accepts he has to strap a turbo on it to get anything out of what he has. In over a month since posting no re visitation has occurred by the OP...I doubt we will see much at this point. If it's a budget build forget the cam, forget the port and polish...it's all wasted money on the combination you have.

I did it yesterday. 2005 Mustang from a dealer into Germany. CFR Rinkens as always. Sorry, photos on the iPhone not the iPad.

My buddy in Liverpool bought a set of Boyd's Billet Rims...guy would not sell or ship to anybody outside the state of Alabama... Had a work colleague "buy" them, then load them in his truck and drive to some training in NC, where I met him and loaded them in my rental car...posted one from Charlotte, one from Mayfield Ky, one from Birmingham, and one from some city in Ohio as I recall... There are people who are paranoid, how much paranoia depends on many things! Many make no sense at all...

Digital MSD 6A if you want to control timing (and need the appropriate locked out distributor...) Someone is in the process of doing it. My bud just bought one yesterday for his 64 Elko. It's not different, really....it's been done by lots of people since the 80's. First with chipped GM ECU's, later with the analog fuel controllers, and then more sophisticated ECU's. I have a 72 240Z that has had a four barrel TBI system on it since 1991.

If your CTS falls off an N/A car, say in 110F heat going into the top turn at Willow Springs...you won't make the next turn before its so flooded with fuel it will take three days to dry the cylinders out! The CTS is an ADDER to pulsewidth. Whatever is programmed as base, it adds to the top. In some cases this might mean 100% duty cycle.... Being rich is not a cure-all for detonation, in fact it mostly hinders the ability to pull higher loads through the loss of actual horsepower. The combustion chamber design of these heads is terrible in terms of detonation. I've watched 8 psi sink rings on five of six forged piston cylinders without ever hearing a single "marble in a coffee can" on JWT's Dyno. All the time, a nice sooty black smoke was exiting the rear tailpipe....under the assumption "rich safe" was the rule of the game...

I have often said "it depends on your definition of what 'it works' really means." The L-Series doesn't puff black smoke until into the low 10's or high 9's, so saying "no smoke, runs fine" doesn't really mean much in reality! And they drive torquey when pig-bog rich!

And lack of EGR on the Balance Tube...

That is a little steep. My max map was 24 psi at 8psi but that was on Japanese Gasoline (dashracer 104 octane) When I got to CA it would rattle on 87, and 91 so I had to back it off again some more. That was 8:1 CR Build though, not a 7.4...though that doesn't seem to make much difference. The compression looks OK, a leakdown test would be a good thing to verify engine health. Putting a manometer gauge in the oil cap will let you know what kind of crankcase pressure you are building up, it shouldn't be appreciably more than a few inches of water at full load and full rpms if everything is evacuating correctly. Even with an open upper cover and everything blocked it should blow out any excess pressure to meet that criteria. If you are getting enough pressure to push out the oil dipstick, something sounds plugged. Either that, or put a catch wire on the stick and lag it down when running. Though if there is pressure, you will start to see oil leaks...

Remember hearing "you can blow up your engine at 8psi of boost"? AFR is irrelevant if you are over-advanced and detonating (and NO YOU WILL NOT HEAR IT!) As TimZ says, you likely won't like your compression check results. My forecast is Cyl 3-6 have uniformly dismal compression from broken ring lands due to prolonged inaudible detonation. (AFR does not shield you from detonation.)

Frank gets on the plane in a few hours flying from Amsterdam to LA. I will board my plane in Manila in 9 hours. We will arrive at 20:00 LAX Time Saturday. At 04:30 on 19 April, we will be in line to enter the Pomona Swap Meet, looking for parts and to scope out cars. By Monday we will have bought a 2005-2009 Mustang Convertible for Export to NL. CFR Rinkens has already booked a slot for drop off on 27 April at their facility (drive it a week, shake it down, add all,accessories so,you don't get hit with taxation of your local Reich.... There is a list of prospects we will visit in LA. I would HIGHLY suggest you get a "Magic Jack Plus" or like device that gives you a U.S. Phone Number (VOIP) -- call from it, have all calls directed to it. Never let on you are overseas, and use CFR Rinkens local agent make contact and pick up the car for you, prepare the shipping documents, and etc. Or, as John Says: come on Holiday. When Jochen came, he spent a good week driving his 240Z and came back the next year to,buy several more to recover his costs on the first trip! Haven't heard if he's coming this year or not. April's MSA Meeting was always a good time to pick something, the variety of available for sale vehicles beats any other Z-Meet anywhere in the Continental USA.

Purple Sage Trading Post used 240 rear suspension components in building their Bonneville Streamliner. Their build page has interesting information on cutting down the stock drivefpshafts to accommodate a narrower rear track. Nice if someone had a lowered car that was at full,compression on the stock axles...

Archives of ZCar.com. Good luck with that!

First one I haven't built myself, last ones being from the B&G Group Buy #2 back in 2K2... This time around, it's for my Suzuki Every Super Multiroof Van in The Philippines. 660CC's of Snarling Fury. Going with a Microsquirt this time around as its always intrigued me.. Ordered earlier this evening, and notified by midnight it was shipped.

RS Okinawa...

I'm hoping he meant Sch10, and not Sch40!

This one is 13' 7" from the back of driver's seat to back door, plus 18~24" of step bumper out back! Lowered, too!

I just bought a sleeve of Red Solo Cups up at S&R (Costco) in Manila on Tuesday. Now I got my 240 Red Cups, and a dozen 'red cup shot glasses' with carrying cords so you don't lose them. I buy brandy by the case...when I go into the Grocery Store the manager of the Liquor Outlet sees me and asks "Shall I get a case from the warehouse?" There are parties here. Yes, indeed.

They actually passed a local ordinance here in Lucena and I had to scuff a lot of the body from what it was! I WAS all 100% Buffed Stainless. Some idiot piled into someone down at the market and blamed the rear quarter area of a Jeepney blinded him from the sun. So they made it a 5,000 peso fine for PUJ's...business Jeepneys. Private Owner Jeeps can still be polished 100%, but public utility jeeps (PUJ) can no longer be that way. I will compensate by adding train horns and a bunch of whip antennas... I just came back from two weeks in Thailand. I work throughout SEA. It's easier to live here than fly 153,000+ miles 'commuting' on flights to where the work is...especially after 8 hours of a 24 hour flight where they knock my pay down to 25% of my regular hourly rate. C'mon CA Minimum Wage Increase! As soon as that passes, I'll turn in the company for violation of minimum wage payments....LOL

Coming back today and reading what I posted I went "WOW!" -- curious how that number off-idle (33%) coincides with the original Bosch-Licensed EFI "WOT Switch closing point!" What happens when you do a slow-roll-on to the throttle compared with a WOT Mash? What happens when you disconnect the Pump Plungers and try the same thing with both Mash and Slow-Roll-On? When you tune EFI, in similar manner, you disable all enrichments to get the base WOT curve, once that is dialed in...you start working on transients. Jetting for WOT takes 45 minutes on a Dyno. It can be 3-4 more hours to get transients and partial throttle dialed in. . . Come to think of it, you are running an appropriate rear end ratio, right? Not the 3.36? More like 3.9 or 4.11? N/A Carbbed engines need to twist to work well.

You really can't dump from idle. This is one of the problems with Carburettors: they need velocity or vacuum to work. Our Bonneville Engine idled at 2,200 rpm son the big predator carb (hey, it's just a big SU, right?) that was as low as it would go. We swapped to Weber 45 DCOE's and the idle was able to be dropped to 1,700. This was the exact same engine, just changed induction... We went to an Electramotive TEC2 and TWM 45 ITB's and we idled at 950! And could turn it down to where the cranking signal was intermittent...it would bang-bang-bang along at 450 RPMS with a triple plate clutch and flywheel that weighed 15# total. I'm convinced even though it made peak power over 8,000 RPM's, we could have put a stock weight flywheel and run that cam on the street with the EMotive/TWM's. The Quoted Procedure of getting it into top gear and making pulls smoothly from 1,000 rpms represents a reasonable driving demand: being in traffic and not wanting to take the car out of top gear. This also assumes the engine idles somewhere around 750 rpms. So 1,000 represents just off-idle by about 33%. The translates roughly into 1,600 in your case with a 1,200 rpm idle. That is a reasonable expectation. On the B-Ville car we could move the car around at 2,500 on the Webers, but more like 3,000 on the Predator. Sometimes I assume too much and think people will make these interpolations. Reason I say it was because the process of writing the Toyota example reminded me of my dunderheaded old USAF Supervisor who had 2TG Toyotas and was convinced he needed to replace his entire brake system because there just wasn't sufficient braking. Long story short was "Wait, is this the car you put the TRD 304/308 Degree Cams into? The one that won't idle below 1,700?" He was convinced the car should work like stock with hella cams in it, and thought idling up to 1,700 was wrong. He had brakes driving down the road, just not at "idle"! Same thing here, I'd say don't expect much below 1,600 at all, you don't put your car into gear and idle it down the road. This is an off-idle test, and off idle is 1,600-1,750 rpms. You just won't work well below that due to carbs needing vacuum to properly atomism the fuel. Up the engine speed and your atomization improves. In Japan they have all sorts of bolt-on TPS and Stand-Off Injector Mounts to strip the venturis out of those PHH's and make them ITB's for better drivability and more power everywhere..."Ctrl-Shift Arrow up up up, or down down down"!

Been spending Z-Project Money on "The Evil Near Me", and have spent more on this thing since last August than any prior car project. Total stainless rebody widened and lengthened, power steering, sunroof, complete stainless exhaust with Copied Corvette C5 muffler redesigned off the SAE Paper on said muffler, new rubber all around... Hope to pick up a set of full cover Bonneville Moon Discs to finish the wheels at Pomona this coming weekend. Get the booming stereo and by then it's ready to go into service making money. Roughly 15% ROI beats what I'm gonna get on my Z, or my 401K recently so why the heck not. Shakedown cruise fully loaded to Bicol over Easter revealed that about the only thing I DIDN'T replace took a dump: pinion bearings in the differential went away 1/4 into the 8 hour round trip..but made it back. Replaced with a "speed rated" 7.33 ratio compared to the 7.63 that was in there previously. As you can see the pinion carved some artistic swirls on the carrier while making a bunch of noise. The LED Lights under the thing helped in roadside tear down and diagnosis...lol And that's what I was doing...a typical case of "While we're in there..." BTW, that bed area is 13' 7" from the back of the seats to the rear door, with the step bumper adding another 18" in back of that. Why "Pub.54"? That's the IRS Booklet that showed me how to pay for it!

I have enough fun stroking that I don't need horsepower!

Norm Seimpers did it, and documented the shite out of it including the removal of material for proper compression deck height down to the grade of sandpaper and number of strokes he used to cut down the Pistons using his driveway as the milling table. That "home made" enough for you? He ran 12's in his 240, using SU Carbs. He totaled the car in a Florida Rainstorm earlier this year. It sits in his father's yard. If $4,400 is big money to you, you might want to reconsider the path you hope to take. Though Norm might sell you his engine for $6,000, complete!

Keep in mind Mikuni PHH were OEM fitments on probably a MILLION or more Toyota DOHC engines from 1967 into the 80's (with catalysts!!!) If you can get Toyota drive ability and reliabilitynout of them in a 1980 Camry GT, you can do it on an L-Series. It's not me just saying it, Toyota proved it! My 76 Celica GT would lug in fifth gear from off-idle to redline. So would my Fairlady Z with the L20A and 40PHH's from a 2TG Toyota. As would my blow-through 44PHH turbocharged 73 240Z....and that was no small feat.

Vac-U-Pans in the collector of your headers draw a nice vacuum on the crankcase, and you can use the little breather on the top like everybody seems to want to do...