Tony D

Yep, the reason the Japanese Manufacturers moved to USA (aside from getting around that voluntary import cap) was making the cars in America was cheaper. The median wage for Japanese Auto Line Workers surpassed that of the UAW in 1984. The Korean Auto Line Workers surpassed that of the UAW a few years back (it was $70,000...) Japanese Manufacturers moved 'everyday' models into production in the USA to get their bread and butter, and left that import cap only being affected by the Luxury Brands coming in from their highest paid workers. As I said above, I remember 268. That was what my 100,000 Yen security deposit was bought with...5 years later it was 117 to the dollar, and that 100,000 Yen turned into the paint job that I could NEVER afford on the Z at that point in time!

I used a Z31 inlet duct to hook to the stock turbo inlet and to relocate the AFM outside the engine bay in front of the radiator.

Now you don't see THAT every day! Someone had a good set of tires and was running power through their R200 there! Wow! "Sticky Video"! To go along with that Black Wheelstanding 240Z "R200, Yeah it's strong enough...for a while!" LOL

"Shift, ctrl Arrow Up Up Up" People who say 'carbs are easy' have never really done anything but bolt on something that runs 'pigbog rich' and were satisfied by it. I know what I would do with a Megasquirt...go add fuel ONLY in the MAP Blocks where the stumble was happening. OR Move the timing up.... It is done sequentially, you don't even slow down just run through the area....lift....make the adjustment and go back up through it again to see what it did...next load cell/transition point...

it's not particularly sensitive. A standard pickup in the distributor with one trigger would do the same thing, you just phase it correctly. It only knows when #1 is where it needs to be for the start of each sequence.

Entrained gasses in fluid compress. The fact that friction does play a part. Abacus wielding Chinese beat computers in complex math calculations in recent history. A hydraulic computer would likely be faster than a human processing that abacus...

Almost halfway there.... C'Mon 250!

Oh....that black G-Nose in the back looks like the one on my 73 after I made a spoiler for it!

Hahaha if you didn't want an answer, why ask. That $5 or $6 you saved...did you really? Time will tell!

Non-compressibility of the fluid...

More like 12mm washer. A 4"mm washer that is not hardened will bell like a MF.

For the claims...no photos of the box or serial number pad on the engine...PFFFT! Dude's smoking crack at $3,300. I wouldn't WANT one like that if I DID find it! A junkyard motor and $2,800 in parts and machine work with me assembling it makes more sense than that boat-anchor.

You detonated and blew your head gasket. You ran lean and detonated, specifically. It has nothing to do with your head bolts nor the head gasket. This is covered extensively during Christmas break, if you search.

You have forged rods already. Forged crank as well. Normally recommendation is to keep RPM's below 7500 with cast Pistons for durability. Once you go forged Pistons, there is no restriction to your RPMS, restricting yourself to 8,000 is only giving you maybe 1,000 more useable RPMs. They can do far better than that.

You can get the KA24 washer and bolt from your local Nissan Dealer as well. The issue with the washers is they are too thin and "bell" when torqued. This results in a loose pulley, and one that wrecks if your lucky....takes the crank snout out if you're not...

1.06 A/R is way too big...

This is why you run the top gear test at progressively more throttle angle. On Mikunis it's well known highway cruise is done on idle jets. Mikuni specifically states at WOT you are tipping into the main transition at 3,000 RPMs as I recall (if their other parameters regarding sizing the carbs are followed.) That pretty much is what I've used to explain to people why fiddling with a main jet for mixture adjustment below that point is basically fruitless. There isn't enough draw to top the mountain as it were...to get fuel flowing down into the boosters before that point.

Sometimes I get an idea...and then go a bit overboard with it. My son's 510 wagon has matching the red block stud covers. Nobody ever sees it... Every time he changed oil and crawled under the car he said "those covers really look good!" I tend to think the same thing climbing under my car as well. If nobody else sees it, so what! I know it's under there!

I suspected I could do my own transmission conversions with what I had already for my Bridgeport! Thanks for that photo Jack. Now to do my 220V Single Phase conversion so I can actually DO the machining on the cases! LOL

"The point of it is that if you are purchasing it to cut the need for a tuner out of the situation, that's probably not a good idea." BOSS EFI out of Corona CA was the original manufacturer of these systems, and they CAN get pretty close... I was buffaloed by 'rah rah' articles in Enthusiast Magazines a couple of times where they say one thing and reality is something totally different. My Megasquirt fired right up and I could drive it around the block using the B&G 383 Chevy Fueling map on my L6. It goes to your definition of "works"... Every one of them has a protocol to save the file after your 'self-tuning drive' and you will have to learn that. Don't not prepare on basic knowledge based on a salesman's claim it will do it all for you... Never. Ever.

Personally I'd trash the header...with that wrap...it's not long for the world! Hotspot burnthrough is right around the corner!

RE: "Ramps Safer than Jackstands" As someone who has watched stamped-steel ramps rated at 3X the total weight of the vehicle driven upon them spontaneously collapse... "Not on my life ever again!" I will NEVER use a ramp of stamped-steel ever again, as well as those three-legged jack stands that look like they were made from muffler tubing split a 120 degrees. I have a solid wood set of ramps I use, and an injection moulded plastic set that I use. Once the car is up on the ramps SOMETHING blocks it there, and SOMETHING is under the frame. *** As for pulling the pan...it's all above, nothing insurmountable...usually biggest issue is the Nissan Applied gaskets are like a subatomic bond with the block and pan and splitting them apart can be a chore even with a special Nazi-Era Scraper that you can whang in there with a rawhide mallet to separate the surfaces. I tend to spray up into and onto the inner block surfaces with brake cleaner to prevent oil from rolling down into the gasket area while mounting and sealing. I use the brake cleaner into each of the bolt holes to prevent oil up inside from coming out and making a leak path in the sealant. Finally, I use studs on the reassembly, all sunk in and sealed (to prevent the oil path mentioned above.) The use of studs allows me to make them long enough to accommodate 1/2" 'sandwich plates' similar to that used on later L28's and L28ET's to spread the clamping function of the pan bolts (nuts) without deforming the pan rails. They are made from 1/2"x1/8" or strap steel I get at Home Depot's metal rack. I make the rails straight, put the clamping sandwich strips on there, and use Flanged Nuts to squeeze it all together. There are two studs that are longer than the rest situated diagonally opposite corners...I put the pan with sealant on it up until I can get a flange nut started on one, then the one in the back... This lets the pan sit without touching the flanges for a final inspection and maybe alcohol wipe before pushing it up to sealant contact and finger tightening those two nuts. After that, you can quickly do the rest of the nuts. With a piece of 1/2 square keystock set in your vice you can put your pan over it and beat those concave bolt holes down flat again...and using the above clamping sandwich strips with flanged nuts will keep you from ever having to do it again! I also have a bitchen $300+ breakaway torque screwdriver (that someone else paid for) I can use to tighten the bolts exactly where they need to be... I prefer Loctite 598 as sealant alone, or as gasket dressing. If you have a gasket you really need the sandwich strips and a flat flange. With Loctite 598 you can lay your proper bead for sealing, snug the nuts to get initial compression, let it set up overnight/24 hours to cure and then retorque to proper number the next day to get some compression on the 'gasket' you just made with the 598. Loctite 598 and Permatex Ultra Black are EXACTLY the same substance, BOTH made by Henkel and simply marketed in different markets with different brands. This comes straight from Henkel Technical Support Engineering. We use it on our oil sumps which are immersed in hot oil 24/7/365 and rarely are expected to be opened for inspection before 5 years of continuous running. It is more tolerant of surface debris / contamination than prior RTV's. Our testing indicated between metal blocks, a bead will have at least a 40X espansion rate in close fitting pieces...meaning a 2mm bead will spread to 80mm wide EASILY when compressed. A 2mm bead is ALL you need if you have less than 1mm distortion. By putting a 2mm bead on the pan and then tightening to metal-to-metal, the bead will EASILY compress to cover the entire mounting flange area, even in the warped areas...effectively permanently sealing the gaps. *** Even when I don't replace the bolts with studs... those two diagonal studs and flange nuts are installed it helps hold the pan coming off as well! They're like 1" long....I cap them with a piece of vacuum tubing after install so the exposed threads are not gummed up with road grime. If you get realllllly fancy and have longer studs that stick out at least 1/4" beyond the face of the flange nut...those vinyl vacuum caps that are available in Red, Blue, Yellow, Black make for a bitchen detail all around the pan surface as a nice contrast... You know.... "While you're in there..."

I may not be ready to sell just yet. I watched "Extreme Car Hoarders" last night and found myself yelling at the TV!

^^^^^ "No Time for Sergeants"

Make a pull n 4th from 1000 RPMs at low throttle opening. Make another pull at 1/2 throttle, and one at WOT. It will be a boggy one until 3,000/3,500 on the last two. Don't mash it and mask the jetting with accel pump jet (disconnecting the pump for these three passes might be an idea.) Don't upset it by a downshift. Let it climb slowly and steadily. The transitions from pilot to main, and then emulsion/air bleed/main will be seen above 3,000 RPM's. It looks like your pilots are right.