Tony D

That's a Crown adaptor meant for the Corvair 180HP Turbocharger used on 65 & 66 Corsa Turbos. I'm interested in it if you don't molest it. I have the rest of the kit but not a good example to remake a SS Replica. PM me with a price if you are interested in selling, It would ship in a USPS Flat Rate Box to 91765

I have never heard of doing that. I don't even know if it would run...pulling the jet blocks out results in uncontrolled rich situation from a gaping hole. Just put it in gear and roll on the accelerator without activating the pump to bugger up the mix. You should be able to run the car with even and slow throttle puts without the accelerator pump. After you get THAT right, you the start testing WOT applications at various speeds to determine best compromise for pump stroke across expected area of operation. And it will be a compromise. There is no mechanism to tailor the accel shot on anything but rate of change and available stroke. "Control-Shift Arrow Up Up Up!" LOL

The Check is in The Mail. This will only hurt for a little while. I'll only put the head of it in. It's totally self adjusting, just bolt it on and drive! see a pattern here?

How do you plan to plug that gaping hole??? That's what I thought it looked like, BTW. Once the AIR tubes left the cast iron manifold and got put into headers, ripping them out when the thin tubular headers rusted away due to the heat was quite common. You just tossed them and got another set, along with a new AIR Tube set from Nissan (when they were still available!) I think I actually have one of those in my shed, AIR Gallery still attached for fear of the "tear out" from rushing it's removal.

Any L28 takes a turbo slapped on it just fine. You don't need anything special.

Yep, then people try to mask that lean by overinjecting an accel pump shot! Somewhere in some manual they will tell you to disconnect the accelerator pump, then using the throttle lever SLOWLY increase engine speed from idle to 3,000 rpms and note your AFR's (in the old days it was listening for misfires and stumbles) It should be able to do that, smoothly without coughing or stumbling. Another way is to get on a long straight and level stretch of road and get up to a speed which equates to 1,000 rpms in fifth gear. Then slowly roll into the accelerator and let it sloooowly pull from 1,000 to as fast as you dare. If it does it without bucking and surging, you got it right! The value of these tests is things happen slowly enough that you can take in when they are happening and have a vague idea on throttle position. Frankly, making a WOT run go well is EASY. It's these slow pulls at 25/50/75% throttle from 1,000 rpms that give you the reading on your transitional characteristics. On a track this fluidity and ability to actually USE any throttle position on the car (not just WOT or Idle) can pick up many seconds in decreased lap times. That's really your last test to know it's all working well. The high load will reveal transitional leans on that AFR gauge and that will let you make incremental adjustments to the jetting or emlusion tubes to get exactly what you need. It's the closest most people can get to going to a dyno that holds load points and tuning for peak torque under those conditions. Which, and this point I say: See TPS Dot, shift control, arrow up, up up or down down down and watch that dyno...then move on to the next mapping point! I'm SO over jets it's not funny! LOL

"Pistonheads" you say? You kids and this Internets thing...

Hey, there was a crazy guy in Pomona with 110 Corvairs, he wanted to sell the lot for $100,000 'all or nothing' was his tagline on the sale. Nobody ever bought them all. The way he explained how the EFF he ended up with 110 Corvairs was "Hey, I was a union machinist with Lockheed for 30 years. I got paid well, and these cars were selling for $25 and $50 at one point. I don't think any running car in this lot cost me more than $250. When you think about it, three or four cars a year...one every couple of months, for 30 years...and you easily come to 100." The clarity. It made perfect sense at the time. It's the same line I use myself today! But I won't sell them in a lump. Hell, they get up a bit higher I might just start selling them off one-by-one. There's more cars than years I got left by my figuring, so gotta do something!

Yes, I figured we three were all on the same page.There's no frustration, you have it well in hand. Your definition of 'full turn' is satisfied by some guys at 180 because the turn of their hand is completed. It's the difference between us guys that read the manual and see the definition of 'turn' and other guys who don't! I put it in to clarify to anybody who might be searching later on as it wasn't definitely quantified. I can't tell you how many times I've watched guys 'turn' the screw 180 and say 'one' another 180 'two'.... Uh, No! The idle jets have a huge effect because they have such a big range of varied conditions to cover. I've discussed in the past the balance between annular area around the idle needle and how this is calculated for idle mix, leaving the balance of jet flow open for the transition ports. By backing it out beyond the intended amount, you bias more flow from the jet to the idle therefore inevitably starving the transition ports. That's the purpose behind the 'turns out' as they know taper of the needle, they know axial displacement from the turn off seat, and they know the diameter of the hole for idle...therefore they know the amount of cross-sectional area that will be available to flow fuel compared to the idle jet size. On a jet change from 60 to 50, you may have to back out the needle so far, that the entire jet flow is going to satisfy idle and it dies if you crack the throttle. on the 60, it's a bit rich and you go off-idle and go slightly richer. When you got the sizing right, it should stay very very stable around 13 plus or minus as you transition into main. The balance will be correct between the vacuum available to pull through the holes and the jet diameter available. Hopefully explaining that makes sense on what is going on...

Did you remove the threaded tubes? it looks in the photo like they were removed. Yes, that is an OLD header, intended for up to a 74 Z-Car. There was a small pump on the left side of the engine that pumped air into the exhaust there to combust the unburned HC. It was quite effective, just one injector into the collector of that header would clean up a 71 with SU's properly adjusted to 83 Catalyzed SMOG Criteria. It started in 66 in California, and went on quite late in Domestic stuff... Frankly, if it's an EFI engine, you don't need them, you don't want them...you are better off getting something newer like you say--it will be better all around. For someone wanting to make a 'period correct' restomod it might have a place in someone's car!

My girlfriend was asking what I was laughing so hard last night... "When he sees it, he's going to go 'aaaaaaaarrrrrgh!'" LOL

My son was 3 (so that makes this about 1995) and I had one of the first 'baby fivepoint harnesses' that let a kid sit on the seat, but had a harness through the stock seat belt. We're driving along returning a rental Mustang and at a light and he looks at me saying "Make it make the Z-Car Sound Dad!" I was kinda at a loss to what he meant, and I can see it clearly in my mind to this day. He looks forward and goes "GWAAAAK!" as the throws himself back into the seat like a launch, then changes pitch lower and goes "GWOOOOOK!" doing the same jerky motion, then again going "GWOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAK!!!" only this time he's pinned himself into the seat arching his back and his eyes are really, really big then relaxes and looks at me again and says "Like that!" So he remembered. I took him cross-country when he was 8 using him as a navigator. Then again twice more before he was 12. When he turned 14 I let him drive on ElMirage in the Z... But that day, at that stop light... "Make it make the Z-Car Sound Dad!" That was a great moment. Later he would say "Lets take the black car!" No A/C... 100 degrees out and 'Lets take the black car! We can roll down the windows...if we go fast enough, the fumes are sucked out by the whale tail!" PSSSSSSSSSSSHH SHHH SHHH SHHH!

I oftentimes dream I've been "rolled back" internally to 24 again...same terminal date total...but now just another 30 years until I reach it instead of 5... Youth is wasted on the young!

Why does this sound familiar? Hmmm, substitute "20-Something" for Teenager... Admit I started with Turbos since I was into VW's and then went to live in Japan where EVERYTHING was turboed in the 80's...and then return to Stateside for a few years of turbo driving and then.... "Storage for 15 or so years..." Though, in the intervening years spare cash was spent buying parts to add to my JDM Hoarde that I brought back in '89. Now, about that 'tape deck'.... Is it cartridge, or a two-holer? I got a cartridge (8-track) in my VW Bus, and a Cassette in the 73 Turbo Car. The Pioneer I just put in my Suzuki Turbo Kei Van (what was that about 'Turbotony'?) has a hard-to use CD (drop front cover to access) but has THREE USB's and an SD Card.... My girlfriend hit the SD Play by accident and got Death Metal which she found quite disturbing since she thought it was a radio broadcast LOL I literally have every album (yes, ALBUM) and CD I ever owned on that one SD Card in my radio... and the ability to Bluetooth from my iPhone and answer phone while listening. I'd be happy if they pulled out the CD Mechanism and put in a real four-channel AMP in the DIN chassis! I digress...ain't progress great Hoover? LOL

That looks similar to one that just sold for $3450...

There was discussion with someone about shipping a car to Europe for an auto-tour. If you do it from the East Coast, you can ship as low as $1400 round trip RORO. Doing it from SoCal, it's closer to $2200, plus all the logistics you get with importation without duty, various clearances for the use of the vehicle, etc etc. It's actually easier to ship a car to Japan and go touring... or Singapore to Tour the Death Railway in Burma (now that US Citizens can enter legally) and then take a right turn to Shanghai and onwards to Japan... Who wants to make it a two car caravan? And which will it be, Europe or Asia?

Almost as good as a Trunk Monkey!

I discussed during divorce negotiations with my ex: "If I put all my cars on the market at the same time, it would depress prices. Better we just get $10,000 for the lot as a scrap price... $300 per car is what the place said they would give. This auction makes me smile. Mowhahahahahaha! Who can I sell my cars to get my $118,000? Mowhahahahahaha!

I'm glad I'm not the only person having that issue... "I know that EFI was in a box here someplace!" Hoover: "Junior Member" Bwahahaha! Man, I hope you PNO'd the 2003 car....or otherwise, well....you left it sit long enough it should be off the rolls! LOL When did your flared, turbo car go into storage off the roads? I have to think we shelved ours both about the same time... The thought of them both coming back into SoCal at the same time would trigger some sort of time-space anomaly.

The Car for that is the S130. The chassis lends itself to the rear suspension cradle swap, and the front end on a GTS is the same between car cars....so nothing needed there. The big difference is the rear suspension, and that swap is common in Japan (also swapping in Z32 rear cradles to the S130)

I'm fat, as a result, the car sits lower....which helps fill the gap as well. Bo, can you explain in more detail how a 1" diametrical change of tire equates to a 1" radial decrease in fender gap in the 12:00 position?

The Flat Tops in the You Tube Link are Separate-Float Bowl Models from the JDM and are functionally IDENTICAL to the round tops...with the addition of an idle circuit so the jetted needles can be tapered more aggressively. They are 38mm and were available on Fairlady Z's and much later on the SSS Four-Bangers. Adjustment is via screwed jet on the bottom same as earlier carbs. So yeah, technically they ARE "Flat Top Z Carbs"...but more properly referred to as JDM 38 mm Flat-Tops. The 46mm Flat Tops used on 260's outside the USA are similar to the ones in the USA with some stuff sealed off as it was not used there...they have an internal adjustment which is a PITA to do. The 38mm carbs work well on L24's as a super-economy carb, and I've used them on L28's on occasion when I didn't want to down another car just for carbs.

That header with the wrapping on it that is 'rusted' isn't the same one in the other photos with the AIR Injection fittings on it. I haven't seen a header with AIR on it since the 80's. Once they started those CARB EO program the supply stopped and they just started 'not to be use on highway vehicles' statements.

DEFINE "TURN"!!! I have watched guys define a 'turn' as 180 degrees from seated. It's not. They mean 360 degrees from seated. In every case, when you dig into it... I should have asked that question initially, I usually do. But the question was 'is a swap from 60 to 50 a big swap' and that answer is 'ohhellyes!' There's a reason they make 55 and 57.5's (splitting each by 1/4 of a size if you notice...)

Car Thieves? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDrzMGdYWZc