Tony D

You need two of those! One that allows expansion, the other to let air in from use driving down the road. Trust me, if you cork up a 240's tank with all new hoses and a properly functioning cap driving down the road with a Holley Blue supplying fuel to the Webers you get a mysterious "no fuel pressure" problem after about 45 minutes on the freeway, and when you open the hatch, you fund the plastic filler neck sucked FLAT because someone capped the diverter valve on the left fender well with a couple of black vacuum caps! I converted all of my fittings to 10mm, and used fuel line to preserve full function of the EVAP system, when you pressurize the tank by plugging the diverter valve it will hold 3psi for days!

Why would you repair the fender and not the FRP Piece to fit your existing bolt pattern. The flats are there and that big for a reason.

Within 25F ideally. You can buy engine Analyzers from Aircraft Spruce that operate on 13.8v that have six EGT's, TIT, TOT and adjustable differential alarms. As JeffP said "that would be a bitchen addition in the center console!"

I got lost in the fact that you were quoted a barbed rail TWICE then ORDERED ONE on your PayPal! To me, that says you ordered a barbed rail. Don't blame him for your inability to correctly order what you wanted. Bad form.

Gunson's makes a 12v powered CO Meter, how nice! You will be able to watch the meter and know if it's rich or lean by that CO Reading, even if it is admittedly slow.

If nobody has thought of this yet, a proper pop-rivet is easily-enough affixed to a stainless screw with the end ground for wrenching flats, and a screw slot cut with a hacksaw on the same end perpendicular to the wrenching flats. This allows you to screw the screw in from the backside through the nutzerts using a gun smithing screwdriver, with the wrenching flats used for final torquing. Same as you take 'tamper proof' license plates with tax stamps out and put them back in after the body work is done. Not that I ever did that kind of thing...that would be illegal. But not on ZG Flares.

^^^ Twisted throttle plate is VERY common. People back the idle speed screw all the way back, and the throttle plates snap shut and get stuck. Next WOT hammer-down you twist the shaft...

A fuse or circuit breaker at the battery might be advisable.

"Search First?"

Well, I got news my tax refund is finally released from the corrupt Malay Customs Service and last I knew it had left Japan on the way through Anchorage on the way to Portland...Departed 01:29AM...so that's making me breathe better knowing I have money again...soon...

If you need only a small enrichment relative to jet sizing...you can alter the float level a small amount. Higher will give you richer, lower will give you leaner...usually across the board.

There are people on this site that have over €150,000 into a build... That's decent coin, "no corners cut" kinda money. Where does the budget have to be to rate the "epic" classification? It costs what it costs, right?

I'm pretty sure with a million bucks I could arrange that!

Inertia switch in the circuit.

"it mostly passed expect for emissions that failed and timing" Smog.. In before the shed...LOL

I'm watching Office Space now.... No talent assclown... Someone stole my stapler.

In before the shed...

...

I just checked my Cardomain page...no joy on photos of me installing that Z31 NA Duct... Rats!

It wasn't the boot, it was the L28ET inlet boot to the turbo inlet, to the Z31 plastic pipe (you melt the unnecessary fitting on it to seal it) it goes through the firewall nicely...you can then adapt with a piece of straight hose coupler. I think on a 280Z you would need to remove the stock AFM bracket to mount it because it's hard pipe and it won't mush around it. The plastic pipe and AFM can be secured to the chassis with anti-vibration mounts like on the AFM as they are essentially one piece if you use the straight rubber coupler. There was a guy on eBay selling "Hump Hose" which is the engineering term for the bellows. A Hump Hose on each end of a rigid pipe will let you have movement relative to the pieces it connects. If you wanted to get fancy, those Hump Hoses are available and could look real nice between sections of aluminium straight piping as you can order colors. I ordered Blue and Black for my Suzuki. My parts should be in Manila Port today...and the second shipment tomorrow. Likely delivered to the house next week...but I'm not there. Most of the stuff I need to make my SS Exhaust, and FMIC for the Turbo Every Van. No more bodged and hacked crap from local manufacture and dubious origin...

JeffP is using the Z32 Box in his car now...and the sensor. I don't think I have any photos...there might be some at his website.

If it leans out with your foot down for a few seconds the jet it's on is either too lean, or the air bleed / e-tube is doing something at that rpm range.

Heating with a crack pipe torch, it falls right off. Or can be plucked early with a needle nose before it's so hot to fall off on it's own.

My neighbor with the Benz Diesel didn't think so when I told him about an LD28 to replace his MB Diesel driveline. Plunked it in, changed a driveshaft and was away happily ever after... He's still driving his MBD (Mercedes Benz Datsun) to this day! He did that back in 98 when you could get an LD at the junkyard for $150 and the MB Dealers all wanted huge money, and used parts were similar!

In a vacuum?