Tony D

It's huge. At most a 55 would have been as far as I would have tried to go. Your experience and WBO2 are confirming exactly what you think: 60 is too large, 50 is too small. Well, Goldilocks....order you some 55's! NOW, that said...if you have gauges that can measure the hole in the 60 and 50 (probably not in thousandths of an inch like Rochesters...) you can extrapolate what size jet hole a 55 should have, soft solder your 60's closed and get a jet-drill to punch a 55 size hole to be absolutely sure what they will do....but it's a lot of work for the expense.

The "Faster Faster" urging was not only on the street. On a drivealong on a track with a well known (though younger) IMSA racer the driver climbed out of the car saying "I was going as fast as I could and he just kept saying "FASTER! FASTER!" I thought he would be like most other car executives and start screaming to SLOW DOWN!" Indeed, Mr. K was decidedly NOT like 'most other car executives'! Godspeed Mr. K. Enjoy driving with your friends in the Togue in the sky!

Even up to 500HP to the rear wheels JeffP showed that the 0.63 housing on a hybrid setup was not restrictive. All you do with a bigger A/R is cut your usable full boost window! He went to 0.82 simply because it wasn't available in 0.63...at that time.

Crickets in the bearings. (Don't laugh, that is in a Service Report from the Pertamina Balongan Main Air Compressor Overhaul in November 2008!)

What?

I never touched the idle stop screw. Never. And I started mods on a 68 VW Fastback, so in terms of Bosch "Old School" you won't get more than that. I've always utilized a proper bypass circuit due to the VW instructors drumming the Bosch Mantra into my head about doing NOTHING to disturb that sealed plate and lower the manifold vacuum. It's an incredibly hamfisted way to precisely adjust idle speed, and with so many precise bypass screws available... Have you even looked how the bypass screw works on an 82/83 ZX? (You know, the ones that don't have a BCDD in the bottom of the TB?) You don't need the big 12mm bypass lines either, 6mm is more than enough, but if you want it looking stock then you duct the air from that PCV hose up top and downstream to just about anywhere you want. The AAR from an SR fits nicely unseen just about anywhere and ducts to the manifold in exactly the same way with simple "T's" and some stock-looking tubing. It's strongpoint is that it's smaller and if you have a spacer it can bolt onto and flat surface since its a two bolt o-ring flange mounting....or you tap it and use tubing. None of the auxiliary circuits needs anything more than a 6mm hose (1/4") flowing through a stock 82 Idle air bypass screw fully opened a 1/4" hose allows a 2,200 rpm idle. As would an EGR Solenoid opening during AC Clutch Engagement, or the shutter of the AAR.

Making a billet manifold with short intake "stubs" that you then Epoxy your plastic part onto should work well.

I would specifically go to a radiator shop. My local one usually does this in conjunction with a radiator change, where they also do a water pump and block flush. It's a strong chemical, with a neutralizer afterwards that takes out sediment and scale by a reverse flush from a special machine. I personally would not have it done on the Spee-D-Lube or Oil Can Henry's...

No,that's a Weatherpack kit.

Any of the AFM and even some of the MAF's will work. You need the same number of pin spots. They all plug into each other, it's all Bosch License. I cut pigtails out of the Toyota AFM's and then repopulate them the way they are needed for the Datsun Application. Two plugs will easily allow for some mistakes. Plus you can get generous pigtails to cut back and get rid of corroded wires in the process as well. Check out the Vendor's Forum, the set sold by the guy here is really complete, using new GM AMP connectors and the ability to get the pins, or pigtails. I prefer pins as I rewire the circuit myself and don't want the splice. Just go straight to the pin with the wire just like stock was!

Door Edge Trim sold on a roll, bought by the foot! You can get gold or chrome, plus some other chromatics and solid colors. Good to see this developing nicely, I wish I had the memory I once did to order what I said I needed. Argh!

"Coolant System Power Backflushing" at your local Radiator Shop.

^^^^ That is a quick practical check for anybody thinking about a head in the junkyard. Basically like a 'Lincoln Head Penny Check' on tire tread, if you can't fit two credit cards on top of the head gasket and the bottom of the numbers on the head, it's been worked to some extent. A Credit Card is generally 0.040" (1mm) thick.

There ARE manifolds without that air regulator on them, and the engine does run just fine without it. Especially in the Bay Area. My suggestion then is to use the bypass air screw from the 82/83 for your idle air bypass, it will look like a stock part and should bolt on nicely to the side of the manifold. The EGR solenoid is a stock part...if you read what I wrote it used all stock Nissan Junkyard parts and wiring hidden within a stock harness. The Vacuum Advance doesn't come off the AFM Boot. My suggested modification has worked with the stock ECU for two smogs, and with Megasquirt for 6 more Smog Inspections in a SAQMD non-attainment area. But feel free to pave your own road. I read any help is appreciated and thought I'd share what has worked for me in SoCal since 1998 (converted to MS in 2002). Been flawless after initial setup.

WD40 would be protectant afterward. Radio Shack (now in Bankruptcy...) had CAIG DEOXIT in the small bottles which worked miracles on the buildup you got on the injector connectors, etc... Generally, when problems arise in the EFI system, especially when in reference to "my car won't rev over XXXX rpms" issues, the first thing you do is just clean all the connectors and get them back together with protectant and some grease to keep moisture and air off them so they won't corrode again. If you clean with Deoxit, the metal is pretty much raw virgin metal, and it will quickly corrode without WD40, or dielectric connector grease packing the connector to keep out corrosive components like water and air. E-Bay has pigtail connectors, but I've always salvaged them out of Volvo and BMW's in the junkyard. I am partial to Toyota AFM connectors as they used gold-plated contacts. With a pin tool, you can repin the AFM as needed for your car, and the Toyotas have a nice 90 degree boot they use which seems durable. The Volvo and BMW connectors have nice rubber back covers which seem more durable than the original JECS. The two-pin connectors for injectors and sensors from the Volvos are quick-release type which really makes it nice for cleaning and troubleshooting. If you get into a Volvo 240, make sure to cut the O@ connector off as well as as much of the heater wiring along the firewall as you can get.... It's nice Tefzel Insulated wiring, and the MALE connector (what's in the injector) makes a valuable connector to plug into a harness connector with a resistor on it for a dummy signal, or to make a NOID light with a 3W LED for troubleshooting injector pulses.... My personal best was harvesting close to 3' from one. Nice to be able to put your gadget on the fenderwell rather than laying out on the engine during testing (or let it outside the closed hood while doing a driving test. Some extension wires and you can run a 10 turn resistor to simulate hot-to-cold or vice versa when plugged into the Coolant Temperature Sensor harness plug. The GM AMP Connectors will show up on an E-Bay search, and if you look in Vendors Forum here, there is a member that builds up kits with all the required new connectors and pins which you can not beat at any price (I hope he's still making them, I bought several and attest they are great! May need more!)

If you take them with an iPhone edit them and rotate them BEFORE you send them! Select the photo from your album, click "edit" from top right, click the "crop tool" on the right or bottom sidebar (looks like two "L"'s) and once open you can rotate for orientation, and crop the excess crap you don't want out of the photo. I do it with receipts for work every day.

"What do the rules say about leaving the headlight holes open and using some creative ducting to send the air to a low pressure area that won't add to lift of the car?" In general rules it disallows air ducting as described. Look at the section on "Air Ducts"... Scoops are allowed, but ducting from one position of high pressure to another of low pressure (except for the intake) is Verboten. Best you can do is just cover them... It was common to run stove pipes from the firewall out the back of the car.... Great idea to make that big flat area "less big" and it got disallowed. Not in part due to one Buick that had an engine fire in the late 60's that had those stove pipes ("repurposed" from a hotel in Wendover) start glowing red and eventually melt letting two giant 6" blowtorch nozzles blowing on either side of a repositioned driver going 213 mph.

I eliminated it and made a solenoid operated bypass orifice that used an EGR Solenoid wired on the Thermotime switch. Idles up for a longer period than I liked, so I just eliminated it altogether and used that solenoid retired through the AC Clutch Circuit as my idle-up for AC Pump Engagement speed increase and removed the big vacuum pull off. Got the idea from a Suzuki Kei Car of ancient vintage that did the same thing. Worked great, if you use an old Nissan 82/83 idle air bypass needle, it looks stock! (PSA,e as for the idle circuit when you install the KA T/B!)

Has any actual testing of these components been done to justify their replacement or is this just going down the checklist of components replacing them sequentially until a solution is arrived at? Have the contacts been cleaned on the ECU and Harness Connector Ends? Typically when the car dies with lower Pulsewidth signals to the injectors (warmer as opposed to colder) it's resistance in the connections... If it's flooding out, a loose connector on water temperature sensor is the culprit. Without some basic OHM checks from the FSM...were grasping at straws here, same as you! The documentation is downloadable free now. There really is no need for this kind of blind shot gunning...

In Japan that's a reasonable expectation....

I still can't believe anybody gets seriously pissed over an Internet demotion. I still think it was faux outrage...if it wasn't, Jeebus gafl!

What you propose is not "an overhaul" -- and yeah, I had an engine filled with three gallons of typhoon water that sat outside for five years. All I did was clean top and bottom with lacquer thinner and a brush. Compression was good, no need to disturb anything. I put that one in and have run something like 40,000 boosted hard miles on it since. At one point daily driving it 100+ miles a day. Sludge in the pan? PFFT! Clean it and run it. The "overhaul" you're proposing will cause more problems than you think it will solve. Especially since whatever you put in there will be worse quality than what Nissan put in there in the first place!

Depends if it's that Japanese Super-Flexy Yellow stuff sold by "Rock Paints", or just plain old Polyester and micro alone "Bondo"!

Oh, so this was a SERIOUS thread? OMFG, I've taken myself not seriously enough again and tread on sensitivities. "Meh!"

Behind or Beneath? It's like "The Electric Company"! LOL