Tony D

Excuse, please, I was somewhat obtuse in my response. Let me clarify: "Stick it in a head, attach your degree wheel and dial indicators, and start rotating and recording the valve events. Only chance in hell of confirming what you have." Forgive me for my earlier retort, I can see how it could be misunderstood, it went waaaaay wide of the mark!

Where's that hole in the gas tank you keep IM'ing me about? The one bigger than a penny....

What program will run the .srt file extension that is ocntained in the ZIP file?

Stick it in a head, attach your degree wheel and dial indicators, and start rotating and recording the valve events. Only chance in hell of figuring out what you have, save for someone with that exact same cam reading your post and recalling the specs, or actually having the cam card. Best get to it, I doubt highly the latter will be occurring.

Are you setting the regulator to 95psi in use? Adjusting a regulator is done when the airflow demand is actual. You have a cheap regulator, and you will have to set it this way, and likely it will 'creep' when there is a flow drop or increase. It may be undersized. Running with a regulator is the right way to do it, running an air tool designed for 90psi at 145 not only wastes air, it wears out the tool, and can casue a potential explosion from overspeed. I have seen pneumatic rivet guns blow up when pressurized well above their recommended operating pressure (say 150 psi on a 90 psi recomendation.) Watch your air tool trackside on that TWO-STAGE regulator off the N2 bottle and see what it does when the first stage of the reg fails and you start pumping 1500psi through it... Proper air system engineering dictates that storage is a higher pressure, regulated down for distribution for any number of reasons, and then usually at point of use there is another regulation point for even lower pressure. Storage in a 55 gallon tank is MORE CFM at 145 than it is at 90psi. If you have a leak in the distribution network, running 145psi to point of use will waste FAR more air than if that same hole/leak had 90psi available to it. Even the N2 tank at trackside has TWO regulators on it: dropping it from the high side from 3500 to a lower intermediate pressure which is internally fixed (Usually the upper range on the LP gauge), and then the larger twist-knob regulator portion that regulates that intermediate pressure down to point of use. Run your air tools at higher then 90 psig, most of the time all you do is waste air. Mostly, all you do is waste air. Air hammer surface areais likely insignificant to have appreciably more 'impact' to the chisel at 145 -vs- 90, but it does cycle the hammer faster, meaning the BPM goes up and you cut faster. IF you actually measured the cutting rate and compared the linear rate between the two pressures against CFM consumed, likely it's marginally less efficient at a higher pressure or marginally more efficient. In the end the only concrete thing you will know is per time of use, at 145psig, you will use more air than same time of use at 90 psig. Industry-Wide the impetus is to run the air line pressure at the lowest possible pressure to get the job done for lowest cost per CFM. Over compression of air has been a target by industries for over 10 years now, simply because Compressed Air is one of the highest cost utilities in a plant. I have seen air audits at pulp mills where after repairing air leaks, a 600HP compressor no longer ran. 600HP worth of air leaks! Hmmmm, figure $3450 per amp per month for electrical cost on a 4160V compressor, and that is roughly 60A of horsepower at that voltage level. What is that per month in electrical savings? From air leaks? Not to mention now that it doesn't run save for standby, the annual maintenance cost goes from $8450 per year in parts, to that same amount over four years (goes from 8,000 hours per year, to a rotated 2,000 hours per year of operation.) I could go on-and-on! Yeah, I work on compressors.

What brand of compressor? Most manufacturers will be able to give you an instruction booklet via a link on their webpages (or at least whomever bought them out may be able to tell you...) Generally, older Cast-Iron compressors will take a 30wt ND (non-detergent) oil. Using automotive oil with detergents will keep wear particles 'in suspension' and the result will be accelerated wear on bearing and ring areas. For the occasional air user at home, you may never notice this. Do it in a shop compressor that runs 2000 hours a year, and it will show up within a couple of years. There is absolutly no reason to run a Mulit-Vis in a splash-lubricated compressor. PAG or PAO synthetics are more expensive, but in older compressors with real valve systems, they can keep the compressor operating longer due to cleaning up the deposits on the valves---if you operate at higher pressures ND Motor Oil can carbonise on the valves and you loose efficiency. The synthetics will strip off any varnish and carbon, and be more heat-tolerant than mineral oils. Orange Milky Condensate is rust from the tank discoloring the water (condensate), the thick stuff is emulsified oil. Most auto-drainers (good ones at least) will blow down the tank once air pressure drops 10psi. Meaning every time the compressor cycles, the tank will be vented momentarily to dump condensate. Daily before and after use manual blowdown is a minimum. I store my tank full of air using a block valve on the outlet port, I can drain out condensate the next day after it all drops out of solution. Lets me start work while the initial fill starts, as well as fill a tire or three without turning on the compressor. Smaller tanks (like 30 gallon) usually work well being blown down at days end and being started with the drain open for a while. I could go on and on. Compressors is my business...

The Devil-Z had Ambers on it, as did all the cars in the JDM at that time...

I have run R4S pads (S-Street...) for years without issue. You run the R4 compound and you will have exaggerated issues. But R4S's on the street dust a bit and squeal under light braking, but under panic situations, they bite just fine. My immediate thought was either sticking caliper and weight differential. The TUV inspection in Europe does a test and the braking force applied has to be within 3% side-to-side or they won't let you register the vehicle. If the thing is still locking when there's a 200# passenger, and a 160# driver, I'd lean more towards a caliper sticking. It is common enough. If the pads have been on there any length of time, you should see a difference in the wear side-to-side. My last set of R4S's on the Blue Turd went out due to a stuck caliper, so I can see that happening. One side was almost metal-to-metal while the other side still had a good 3mm left on the pads. Make sure the pivot pin is lubed...

You don't have any blind spots. Door mirros will always have blind spots. End of the discussion for me. If I can see fine out of the at 45+, you youngsters really shouldn't have any issues. If ya do, consider the eye doctor for a checkup (passing the DMV test does not mean 'my eyes are fine'!) Just make sure you orient them properly, there are LHD and RHD templates out there, and if you get it wrong....fail! Also, if you want a 'larger' mirror, the later models have big gaudy ones with a much bigger glass...and they're fully adjustable from the driver's seat. Thing is, if you adjust them correctly, they don't need readjustment for 'end of day shrinkage' like a door-mounted mirror. If you work out the field of view and trig from driver's eye to focal point, you will see a 1" difference on a door mirror is a readjustment...on a fender mirror it's more like you have to change 5" before a readjustment is required. My wife is 5'2, and needs the seat 'up front'... My head is a hand's width from the headliner, and the seat is about 1/2 way back on the rails. The fender mirrors on our Fairlady Z 2/2 do not need adjustment between us.

Period Correct: Lots of early Hot Rods had inline sixes. Saw a Nissan Employee that did one with a VG30 using Side-Draft Mikuinis. Two of them were cut in half for the 'third' barrel on each bank. Apparently that manifold and carbs was 'harvested' from Ivan Stewart's off-road truck...

Same for me, actually! Can't walk down the or even get near fertilizer in Lowes. Some stuff is bad, other stuff is strange that it freaks out my wife, but for me it's no big deal. I always crack open the carb cleaner and brake cleaner to see if it smells right... Holdover from Mimeographing Withdrawl during Elementary School.

"While this is inherently not bad it comes into play with perfumes and such. I can't walk in certain parts of stores without being assaulted if yah get my drift. " Transvestite Nonsmoker Section? I thought those were only in SanFrancisco and West Hollywood. Can you decipher bodily fluid ingredients? The world awaits the answer with baited breath!

It's common knowledge amongst L-Engine Builders that the stock bolt-washer combination is unsatisfactory in any sort of performance application. If you were using a stock fastener steup, you take the blame for the consequences. This has been in performance building literature for the L-Engine for over 20 years now, there is no excuse for not using an upgraded bolt and washer since they are readily available. Line-Line fit is not what holds the components in place (This is actually discussed recently in another thread...), it's clamping force between the washer and bolt head being pulled onto the end of the crankshaft, and the stack of components behind the damper---there is absolutely no axial limitation on the tolerance stack it changes build to build and differs if the oil slinger is used or not, knowledgable builders will measure the axial dimensions of the components before buildup to determine if the washer or crank bolt end will need machining to keep it from bottoming before exerting full clamping force on the shoulder of the pulley, and at the same time the timing gear, and crankshaft oil, slinger. If the dimension of the 'stack' is incorrect from the shoulder on the crank snout where they 'bottom out' then longer bolts, thicker washers, higher torques are all called for in performacne applications. These parts ARE a 'consumable' item as well. Anybody thinking they last forever and will never have to be replaced is simply misinformed. Crank Pulley Damage Link In this post, both TimZ and Braap mention is directly: If you are seeing woodruf key problems, it's due to inadequate clamping forces. It's from pulley movement, and that results from inadequate axial clamping load. This is basic engineering. There is a reason Nissan Motorsport has sold a special bolt and washer setup for competition usage forever and a day, and even that isn't an optimal design. There is an internal link in the above post which has more detailed information about alternate pulley retention hardware. It's not suggested in performance applications, it's mandatory.

The second photo is of the connection on the fenderwell from the original 280Z Reluctor (green and red wire) that trigger the transistor ignition unit, it is where you would connect the GM Hei Module were you simply converting from the transistor ignitioon to a GM HEI Module.

Magnaflux is NOT a 'dye penetrant' inspection process! The kits you are talking about are either Spot-Chek, or Zyglo. The Magnaflux process uses an induced magnetic field in a ferrous component and a magnetic dust shaken on the part---the theory being any crack will give a 'north and south' magnetic pole setup and the particles will align. In some instances these can be INTERNAL cracks close to the surface that have failed to fully propogate to the surface, from a casting inclusion, etc. I wouldn't do my own check on a crankshaft, the charge for a proper maxnaflux and zyglo inspection should be under $50 and that will be done right by someone who knows what to look for on the components. I spot-check Pistons, though. My Zyglo stuff is all out of date, you need a pretty good dark room and shroud to block the light to do that test. I'd just pay the $ and have the guy run the test. Oh yeah, and the 'clamping'---the KA bolt is too ling, but Jeff used that Volvo Washer which was thicker, so it didn't bottom. I have seen people take the ARA air conditioners off, as well as the drive pulley, then screw in the crankshaft bolt---bottoming it out because there's no auxiliary pully under it, making the stock pulley wobble all over and do all sorts of nasty stuff. Sometimes you can even hear the washer rattling at idle (tink-tink-tink-tinka!) This is the same process our company uses to mate centrifugal compressor impellers to their drive pinions, our 'keys' are only there for precision alignment as well--in some cases they are nothing more than a 1/8" spring pin. If the impeller stud 'goes soft' and elastically deforms....that's all she wrote! Wreck time. Of course, those are turning 54,000 rpms, not 7000...

RC Engineering is in Torranc, they are on the web... I have a Planters Cheese Ball Container full of L20E injectors out in the shed, some place. Figured they were the perfect size to use on my N/A 1641 VW Motor when I get around to going EFI on it... I put those aside from 1985-1989, Megasquirt came out in what, 2001? I didn't have to wait that long, only a decade for affordable fuel injection!

Still only 300 yen a pack in Japan... In the old days that was less than a buck, now only about $3.25. Picked up a carton of Duty Smokes for JeffP at Kansai for 2300 Yen. Does that make me the Enabler? Good Luck!

/Channelling Comic Book Guy/ "If he cut through the stairs and they are glowing red with a hole through them in one instant, why do they not glow the next, and are miraculously reconnected mere moments later. Are these some sort of new light saber, with a 'stun-regeneration' setting?"

And people wonder why I idly jot VIN's down at car shows and in junkyards... Just this instance! I'm detached from my list of VINS now, but find yourself a 91 240SX and call in that VIN to the monkey running the terminal at your local Nissan dealership. From there they may be able to grab you a proper bolt and washer. Seems they are unable to do anything now without a VIN. I go in with stuff off the FAST CD I bought off e-bay. I mean, if I can find it with a couple minutes of guessing....why can't they---a trained service individual be able to do the same? Holy necropost batman! (BTW) You might want to PM JeffP and see what his guy has to say, he got those numbers from Nissan in Garden Grove through his connection there. Pretty bad when you have your own personal customer number and discount rate set up that gets you better pricing than most local independents due to the volume of stuff you buy... Good Luck, gotta hope a train, Plane, and then a Z! (After about 14 hours in the middle conveyance!)

Nice compressor bypass valve... I end my comments there.

"and your not having lost your cool has been impressive." I don't know if I'd go so far as to make that statement... But three people get it, hopefully some day the important one will. I won't hold my breath. Time to book my return flight. Okamura says next time I'm in Saitiama, he will take me by some car places... Alan knows where.

I just rescued someone who bought a Z up in Suisin City and paid a bit much for what it really was (as opposed to what it was represented to be!), this post is like 2 weeks late, I would have MUCH rather directed him your way. Would have saved me 14 hours in my dually towing his ass back from Panoche Road on I5...then working on the car for 2 days straight so he could finish the drive home (East Coast!) He would have really dug this car!

"That isn't the neglige you were looking for... I think you'ld like to try that crotchless number on over there in the leather-goods section..." I mean, c'mon, where's the old geezer teaching them the ways! Kinda fell short. You need the obi-wan introduction...

Well, now I know where Ford Ripped off the Pintos Back-Glass idea from....VOLVO!

"BTW, lesson learned for me: always use loctite on the damper and crank bolt from now on!" What continually amazes me, though, is that 'The Bible' has had those directions written down in it since before I was doing L-Engines. My VERY FIRST pulley replacement was done by the book according to Honsowetz, and that was 1985 or thereabout. Who rebuilds and engine and doesn't locktite the crank pulley bolt, and use cylindrical locking compound? Especially when 'the directions' say to do so? Overkill is one thing, but if you don't know, overkill is a good thing given the consequences.