Tony D

Ahhh, the butt dyno of the nose... Stick a gas analyzer up the tailpipe and do a 5 gas on both the setups tuned comparably and tell us what you find... Then do it again 30 seconds after startup at 30F Then do it again 30 seconds after startup at 130F Then do it again 30 seconds after startup at -30F After that, start to draw conclusions, and then we can move on to 'under load' testing. BTW, is it possible your 2.5" exhaust moves the tailpipe to a proper area for exhaust? If 'not smoking' is a criteria (that is below 10.5:1 AFR, btw, on non-catalyzed L-Engines...) you may want to re-evaluate that butt-dyno-nose of yours!

I don't see running cooler at 75 than 55 as an issue, so the 'I haven't figured that one out yet' was more a rhetorical question. I don't spend much time trying to figure out why it's working so well unless someone is paying me to figure it out! Common sense would say higher load would generate more heat, but my temperature won't start to rise until extended running near 'go to jail' speeds in CA... Even then, it only comes up to 180/185F.... And that's with a three core radiator!

Those are MIKUINI carburettors (click and enlarge the photo, and this becomes obvious), and came on Toyota 2TG and 18RG engines into the early 80's. (Please understand MIKUINI PHH Series Carburettors are SOLEX LICENSE, All the early Mikuini Carbs had SOLEX on the jet cover originally as per the license agreement...) They work fine on the L-Engine, it was a common swap in Japan since they were so plentiful. These aren't the 'latest' version used in the 80's on Camry's and etc, but late 70's carbs. They only have a couple of emissions components. If you get a standard 'square top PHH' cover, it will replace the Toyota Cover and they will be indistinguishable from non-emissions carbs. Later carbs have some wires connected to the cover to warm bimetallic strips for some EVAP and Starter functions. Earlier carbs from Toyotas have 44mm bores and spacers to make them 'neck down' at the front to 40mm. Usually people will run without those (that's what the front dimpled bosses on the carbs are for, guys....the ones that aren't drilled on the 44phh and later 40phh's!) as the carb flows better without them, you use 44mm velocity stacks. Man, I can't count how many of those I've put on Z's and Skylines when I was in Japan. The FET may have a hood clearance issue, depending on the height of the crossbar heim joints. I just picked up another FET manifold like that off Yahoo Japan Auctions (thanks yetterben!) and was looking at it in the box today! I have plans for this one...especially for the price I got it for!

The attached file should shed some light on what is up regarding 'coolant flow testing' currently underway...

I've run a 350HP+ Turbocharged 240Z in SoCal Deserts since moving here in 1989 and with a three core radiator have NEVER had cooling problems. Understand where "I'm coming from:" If there is a problem that is making you overheat on a basically stock turbo fix that issue first before moving on to this modification series. Jumping to this as some "miracle cure" for an engine which should NEVER overheat is NOT the right way to go! This is akin to putting a band-aid on an aortic hemmorage caused by a needle puncture. You stop that little irritation on the surface, but inside, you're falling to hell quickly! The troubleshooting procedures for a car doing what you say yours is doing is clear cut. Putting this modification will NOT solve the issue. Identify, Verify, Isolate, Repair, Operationally Check Given what you say, my SWAG is your fan is a POS and not doing the job, and/or the radiator cap has taken a crap/is leaking. My electric fan will kick on at 170, cool the engine to 155 and shut back off in the scenario you describe. I run cooler at 65 than I do at 55. I run the same temperature from 30mph in 5th gear to 55, where I get a little bit cooler. Up to about 100mph when it starts adding some heat to the 175-185 F range into the radiator. Old 1989 vintage MSA 3-Core Radiator. People tend to put a lot of stuff in their car thinking they are doing something better than stock, when in fact its not very well thought out or engineered nearly as well as the OEM piece removed.

A roadside officer can not 'tack you as gross polluter' --- he can send you to a mandatory REFEREE STATION for a check, and the REFEREE can tag you as a 'gross polluter', but a law enforcement officer does not have that power, that resides ONLY with the BAR. Gross polluter does not have ANYTHING to do with a court appearance! Please post the EXACT CVC VIOLATION as listed on your ticket. You are either not interpreting what is being told to you correctly, being misinformed, or simply posting B.S... one of the three. If you are misinterpreting his saying you need to go to a referee station for a smog check before your court date, best get ready to ask for a continuance to do so when you arrive in court. But what you were cited for is CLEARLY written on the ticket. I really want to know what you were REALLY cited for now. Given the re-read of your original post, it sounds like he sent you to the referee (show him your smog certificate) and have another cop sign it off. You make the assumption he told you something you didn't need to do: get a smog certificate. They CAN tell you to do this on ANY US vehicle from 1954 and newer, and any Import from 1966 and newer. Yes you have to go to the smog check (referee) if they tell you to, there is no 'exemption'... Seriously though, post the CVC section you were cited under, it's on your ticket.

Don't ever, ever EVER go to ZC.C, you will be shattered beyond belief, Sparky! You WILL see stupid questions (yes, indeed, they DO exist) and those stupid responses as well!

I owned a Samurai for years... I owned a Samurai... Never came close to flipping it, sliding it sideways on a regular basis. I never seemed to be able to get to that 37.5 mph speed it took to get it to flip like CU determined. I guess the answer is drive slower or faster and you're fine, just don't go anywhere at 37.5 mph. Samurai flipping is like Audi Sudden Acceleration (or is that Toyota now, or ZXT's in the early 80's...) More media hype that truth to the real world experience of the owners.

It would be my contention that BMW Drivers universally are incompetent. I mean, how many times have you seen some BMW flaming away in the fast lane flashing his / her lights and leaving the left blinker on? It's not the state, it's the driver and the marque. Vust as Valid a conclusion given the evidence proffered...

Webers WILL shut with air flowing. As a matter of fact, look at the cross-section of the carburetors and you will see that vacuum/flow induces them to close due to the angle of the leading edge of the throttle plates. Whatever you do DON'T drill a hole in the throttle plate. That is to fix another issue with them! Usually when a throttle shaft is bent a transition port is left uncovered, you can start with a VERY small drill to introduce more idle airflow to match the fuel coming from an uncovered transition port. This will get you running with a decent sized idle jet and give you adjustability with the idle mix needles. Generally BOTH barrels will ave the same angle, meaning both ports are opened in both barrels and both plates will need the same size orifice. Then you will need to balance airflow to that carb as it will have the highest flow of the three. In the opposite case, where the throttle plate is too far closed and tip in popping is occurring, it may be necessary to taper the top of the throttle plate near the transition port to let it 'come in' earlier to prevent transient tip-in backfiring. Have you checked synch between barrels on the same carb, or just carb-to-carb? A bent throttle plate will give one plate to close fully, and the other plate will idle up the engine. If the idle speed stop is adjusted correctly you should be able to let the carbs close and the plates will close to almost watertight. If you have spooge in the barrel from poor air flitration it can hold the throttle plates open. Also, in cases of high humidity and small throttle openeing it's possible the bodies are icing, causing the throttles to be held open. This goes away almost immediately on an L once you stop moving forward and the manifold heat starts warming the carb bodies, but it is possible. In every case of high idle (not returning) it's been binding / incorrect linkage setup, or a bent throttle shaft. Usually the bent shafts happen on the Mikuinis as they have a tendency to have plates that stick to the bores and bend on quick opening.

I ran a 280ZX setup on my 76 until I found a 76 setup to go into it. Biggest thing was the ECU mounted in the stock holes without an adapter... And the headpipe didn't need an adapter. Basically the sensors are all the same tolerance. It all depends on what harness you have. If you have the original harness, you will be wise to find a stock ECU to go with it, otherwise you will be spending time moving pins. Some of the pins on the AFM are in different positions, and depending on year how the fuel pump is activated is different. The manifold is plug-n-play all the sensors are compatible. THe AFM you will have to pin-out to insure it's correct. You will need the specific FSM for the model of the donor and the car you have to determine harness point to point connections. When I put mine in, I used a ZX harness because it had the wires for the O2 Sensor (82 ZX in 76 S30) When I changed over to the 76 ECU and harness, I connected it to the ZX manifold for the first couple of 'test runs'. The ZX AFM mounts slightly differently so the boot on the T/B doesn't fit the greatest.... You really don't give enough information to be of more help. You haven't stated which year ZX you harvested the harness and ECU from, or what combination of parts you intend to use. If you have a pre-1981 (no O2 Sensor) ZX harness it's much easier to do since there is no O2 to deal with wiring... But the ECU's aren't interchangable across platforms, if you read the box on the ZX it specifically warns about swapping between 78/79 earlier/later ECUs as damage will result. I got 2-3 more MPG on the O2 sensored ZX box in my S30. After the conversion to a full 76 ssytem I averaged 22mpg at 80mph on the freeway. The ZX box gave me 24-26 in the same situation. Not bad for a car with a 4.11...

Send your old bellcrank to JeffP, it will make the transition from the Superflow 901 Dyno linear actuation nicer than what we have currently cobbled up on there now... Though sadly it will likely be off that by the time you get around to reading this!

Man, that is GREAT NEWS! I've been in transit from OZ, nice to see a decent ending. I will second that comment about Renter's or Household Insurance. If you don't have it, you should! One thing I always used to do was pull my fuel pump relay out when I parked the car. Put it in the compartment behind the seats (glove box would work as well.) Mine was easily accessible, so easy to unplug and the car is going NOWHERE without it. I park at the airport all the time, so the car isn't going anywhere unless it's towed with a flatbed or tow truck. They aren't covering your stereo because you didn't tell them about it when you installed it. If you inform your insurance company they will usually write you a rider for high value equipment like that. It pays faster with a lower deductible than homeowners insurance as well. One stop shopping when you are rebuilding makes it easy.

"There isn't really a place you can hide a lojack that they can't find almost immediately. In fact on exotics that they expect to have that kind of thing, the second they get in the car they run a cutoff wheel across the width of the headliner because the wires almost always go through there." That's all fine and good, but they make small dongles for tracking your teenager driver (or miscreant spouse I suppose) which are fairly cheap, and can be put just about anywhere. They don't LOOK like a car alarm, they look like a USB Jumpdrive. It's self-powered and active pinging to the satnet. You can track it over the internet. I see them all the time in the SkyMall Magazines in the airplanes. They expect a LoJack on exotics, but they don't expect something like that. Something like this makes me think I should probably buy one or two and shuffle them around the cars that are parked near the street. I could track it form overseas as long as I have internet access. Come to think of it, while I park at the Airport I could make sure those Valets are behaving themselves....

I guess by SWAG you are running a 180F thermostat? The question is not what temperature but how long will it rise to 95C? Does it stay there, or eventually fall back? Electric fans are not that great, I do have two on mine, and I have my thermostatic control set to have them come on 10 F over where the engine will be running on a 110F day on the Palm Springs Grade (shoulder) at 30mph in 5th gear. This is the lowest speed I want to consider activating the fans, any faster and you should have plenty of airflow. I have a 170 thermostat. At 30mph in 5th gear my car runs around 175. My fans (2 x 10" Pullers) come on at 185, they will immediately cool the car back down to 165 and shut back off. Cycle repeats. Above 30 mph they do not turn on. The car will run cooler at 75mph than it does at 55mph (haven't figured that one out yet...) If your car is 'running away' you either need a bigger fan, to flush/clean out the coolant system, or to run a lower temperature thermostat/rad cap/etc... I found the fan switches that aren't adjustable are 'too late' switches. My car would get to 185, and by that time turning on the fans wouldn't cool down the car as effectively.

That is dependent on environmental conditions and thermostat used. When you suck 72C air in the radiator, how cool should the water be coming into the engine? And as a result what will it be coming out of the engine, irrespective of thermostat rating... I run a 72C thermostat, but during the summer when the air off the freeway going through the radiator is 72C from thermal layering above the black macadam....obviously I'm not going to run at 72C outlet! Same goes for the situation mentioned---the car MAY rise to 100C with an 80C thermostat in it on a regular basis, especially on an off-ramp from the freeway, you suddenly go from 10,000+ cfm available of cooling airflow to nothing, but still have latent heat in the block and head from all that highway running. Frankly, on my 260ZT, I have a problem getting up to operating temperature UNTIL I go driving and put a load on the car---at idle it lingers in the low 150's (62C). This is the same thing on the off-ramp. You come off and start putting out very little heat, but you have all that built up thermal mass to cool off from highway driving---but no flow over the radiator, and no flow off the pump. So you start circulating water very slowly. This means the temperature rise through the engine goes up---resulting in higher temperatures. At the same time, if there were adequate airflow across the radiator (a shorouded thermostatic stock fan will do this) this slower flow through the radiator will also result in lower temperatures into the engine, and shortly after the rise occurs, it reaches equilibrium and then starts coming down. This is why people run 20 PSI caps---as long as you stop the spot-boiling in the head during this 'flash' rise in the temperature, you will not go runaway and make things worse. It will come up, it will go back down. how your pump circulates and how your radiator cools will determine how high it rises, and how long it takes to reach equilibrium and then start coming down again. Personally, since I run the desert a lot, I run a 72C thermostat, and I rarely see 90C or above unless the thermal layering on the freeway is up there in temperature. It can be 130F on an 85 F sunny day, it does not have to be 'hot' to get overheated in SoCal. Conversely, in the midwest with all their aersols and UV blocking compounds in the atmosphere, you find Macadam temperatures much closer to ambient---maybe 105 on a 100 F day. Not a real stressor to the cooling system. If you are hitting these stratospheric temperatures where you don't get a DARK BLUE sky (meaning no aerosols and lots of UV Heating) you're cooling system is sorely out of maintenance interval and needs attention. My car got 'hotter' in SoCal on an 85 F degree day than it did in 103 F days in the midwest. Thermal layer on the Baker Grade on an 85 F day was 130+, going across Iowa, Nebraska, and Illinois it was rarely more than 10F over ambient, if that. And when it rained----all bets off, back to 'left of center' on the gauge by a longshot. And that was with the A/C on all the way! Yeah, when you got an Omega multi K Thermocouple Box and a bunch of thermocouples from work taped all over your car (and an 8 year old kid to 'man the recordkeeping' through the whole trip---you learn a whole lot when you analyze the data afterwards!)

"well apparently im a retard so nevermind" Best to be thought an idiot, than to open one's mouth and remove any doubt. I want to thank Blu Destiny for asking the 'proper' question: How hot is hot? Or more importantly, what temperature are you considering 'hot'? A meat thermometer from Wal Mart costs under $10, and sticking it in the water flow, or even in between the fins of the radiator will tell you FAR more than the gauge on the dash ever will. I can't count the number of people who came to me 'overheating' only to find 180F water in the radiator, and a gauge on the third leg of the "M" in "TEMP"...

The thing I pick up from this most recent discussion is that the cam billet indeed is 'of all new construction, manganese phosphate coating' and from this I would ask Mr Alan T. if he would ask nicely if Mr. Mori-San at Kameari would be interested in selling camshaft blanks? I am sure I can get Ron Iskendarian interested in buying them as cores for his operation, as he is not to enthralled with the quality of the Domestically-produced CWC Billets. Noticing the characteristic 'hex' on the billets from Kameari, Tomei, et al, I was suspect they had a common billet supplier in Japan... And this confirms it. Now to source some billets and do some Rockwell Testing. I'm am convinced they have superior metallurgy to the CWC unit. Alan, PM me. I will be back in Hiroshima within 90 days I would love to make some time and bring back several cam blanks for Ron to evaluate and get ground to my specifications. Amazing what you run across and read...but nobody else seems to catch. And this is a big thing with the Japanese. They will learn by observation, apprenticeship. An astute apprentice will ask the right questions, and be given far more information than a dullard asking superficial or annoying questions. Same goes in a Dojo. Some people are taught far more than others in the same class. I watched as people were told the engine must be 'the same' for Shaken Sho. He decided the Japanese Inspector meant "Exactly the same" and couldn't find a rotary-valve engine. He was SO p.o. because I put in a common reed-valve engine and had it through inspection within 48 hours of buying it. Driving it around. The guy blamed the 'little damned jap that lied to me-he said it had to be exactly the same!' Yeah, same thing he told me. I asked 'same engine number?' in response, and he said 'yes, engine number the same, O.K.'---just a little effort as his english wasn't great, my japanese wasn't great, but what he said was not what Carl interpreted. Carl's fault, not the inspectors. But typical example of 'secrecy and lying' when investigating these matters.

Ohhhhh, an Estate Car (Station Wagon) the perfect tow vehicle for someone with an open trailer! My wife would kill me!

If you talk to Ron, he will tell you 'if you have a JAPAN CORE send it in, it's better than what is available as new' Now, I want to know why the guy said 'not a regrind'... as the Nissan Comp Cam he currently has is....well.... Nothing different from a regrind from one on a new billet save for the possible base circle. And if the grinder puts hardfacing onto the lobes before grinding chances are good you are getting better than a grind on a New CWC Billet. I'm just curious why he doesn't want a regrind. The logic behind it, if there is any.

Remember these bushings are to be assembled laden. If nothing else, the final torquing is done with the suspension laden. This is a very important aspect to the installation.

Common Fuel Rail? I would have thought those baby 32's would get you on-boost, and then the honkers would open up and run with the Methanol from a separate cell...

Make your own inlet from the intercooler pipe to the manifold into the HKS Box---you can get rid of the two extra 90 degree transitions that way. Now you see what I mean when I said the Type 2 had a better idea---straight from the front plumbing---I guess they realized that most people were running Intercoolers! I think I ran 21 total advance, maybe 18 with the centrifigual advance all in, and then connected the vacuum advance as well. Running premium and only 5-10psi I didn't have issues with spark knock, but I had slotted the breaker plate to allow the vacuum advance to push the plate as a 'pressure retard' as well. I'll be interested to see how it goes when you get on it. If you have a WBO2 you will see what I mean about the jetting going rich on the top end! "Safe"

That kind of power rise in that little rpm is 'not' a good thing. The days of the on-off power switch have long been gone. Proper sizing of the Turbo will give you a N/A style linear drivability. It might be nice to feel it, but it's a bit of a handfull when doing technical driving. Like the Pontiac ad says "wider is better"---this goes for boost margin, peaky engines are not the most practical. Might be fun, but power under the curve is better.

So what do you do if want a turbo cam for an 81 or 82, or oine of the many 83's with mechanical adjusters. My bet is the source was talking to sell something instead of with real justified technical background. If the source was their supplier... I'd like to see their catalog with hyd and solid cam part numbers.