Tony D

What different turbo road, this is all old hat stuff, there really isn't anything new here...it's all pretty much been done, it's just a matter of reinventing the wheel every 10 years or so.

Glue? Jet adjustment is internal on the 73 carbs as well as 74... what is the glue you speak of? If it runs rich, make surethe power vavle is working correctly. Your attitude no doubt affects how the car runs, revise it and likely things will get better (Reference material: Buddy Hackett in Herbie the Love Bug series...)

That's where I was heading, TimZ! That's where I was heading...

Heat soak was not an issue with the standard issue Mikuini Cooling Bodies...even without an intercooler and 10psi. When the gas formulations changed, though, it got bad... nothing to do but to go EFI. I gave up at that point.

The guy that built them says differently. 780 was only one trim. The GTU engine was making 680, and that was >2.5l Yes, we have been busy networking and gleaning knowledge. Those guys give up information....but you got to draw it out. It's a process. Learning a lot as it goes further and further down the road!

No, they need to STOP watching vids, and actually build an L Engine first! I swear to jeebus most of the guys with that palaver have never so much as cracked the bottom end on a stock setup much less dealt with a built stroker! It's what I call 'parrot syndrome'---repeating endlessly mindless drivel which has no basis in the real world! Makes me cra-z!

No Brainer: Stick it on the wall up high out of the way and wait for visitors to comment on how freakin' cool it is. Paint it nicely, and you can sell it to some car-themed diner when you get tired of it... There was an office in LA with a complete skeletonized 240Z, inverted and suspended from the roof!

"Electronics should be black and white, either it works or you did something wrong, so why are there people where it sometimes doesn't work damnit?! " Don't ever take a job in the Technical Services, or Engineering Field Service Department anywhere, you will string yourself up and they will find you like David Carradine in Bangkok! Just a suggestion: KISS Run basic megasquirt, using someone's proven setup and tables. THEN get fancy. MS-n-Se on a MS 1 works FINE. The rest of the stuff is for people who WANt to play around with crap. Let them. Learn the basics and get comfortable with it first. MS is not the only system out there, likely you will find systems costing 4X as much with many of the same issues... 99.9999% of any of the problems is due to initial installation (same almost with anything)... If you get it right on the install, it's downright boring because it just starts and runs. My 260ZT with MS sits for 3+ months at a stretch and it fires up bettern the stock EFI I got on the other car sitting for half that long!

Don't laugh, if the guy knew a thing about how that blower worked, he could easily modify the axial tip clearance and make that baby capable of producing close to 15psi! Toro Leaf Blower Impellers (the replacement ones...) are made of magnesium, and when the tolerances are closed up to normal axial clearances for that size impeller, they work admirably well as either powered, or belt-driven superchargers on engines up to 3.0L in displacement. More than that, and you need two. Keep the boost below 7psi, and they last forever (the bearing packs I'm talking about...) Don't bother, I'm not willing to tell how I know this, I just do...

Many of the offroaders and Moab Rockcrawlers swear by EFI because of it's ability to perform in obtuse angles while offroading. I would not have a carb on a car now unless I had to, the fuel in the USA is not conducive to it's proper operation unless you are shelling out bucks for specially formulated stuff, the pump crap is just that...and meant specifically for EFI'd cars now...

OK, I'll just come out an SAY IT: the reason I mentioned VW's "Inline V" was because you would be able to make a 15 degree V12 that LOOKED like an inline six, and had the unequal length runners and all the complexities inherent in a design similar to that originally proposed. Save that at least then you will have 12 cylinders in the space of six... If you're going to make things complex, get something out of it! Like double the cylinders in the same longitudinal space...and not much more width-wise (not much more wider than a DOHC Head...)

When we were working out of the shop in Santa Ana, the Precision Powdercoating Olds DCRE engine spares were under the shop tables we were using to work on... and the spare tube chassis was slung into the rafters. It was always "Hey Monty, what you going to do with these bullets? Let's put one in one of my Z's and go to Bonneville..." For the price... I'd put it under the bench, eventually you will find something to use it in... Maybe a Hillman Imp or something interesting that is just so wrong it makes sense to do it! That is what that kind of engine is destined to be great in!

Why would you need two manifolds on opposite sides of the head? A manifold with equalization runners to make up for differences in the in-head portion of the port would allow this design to function without double manifolds. Kind of like the 'inline V-6' VW makes now...

Mid corners... don't even get me started on boost threshold coming in halfway through a corner and loosing traction. It was the reason for the whale tail being added to my 240Z...

That's what I got with triple mikuinis boosting to 350rwhp in daily driving 22 mile one-way through Carbon Canyon to work from corona to brea every day...plus some weekend running around and club events. Same basic setup as Gumbys.

pull teh cam cover, get the dial indicator and degree wheel out, and do it right. You can't tell anything timing wise from the position of the lobes other than the thing is within maybe 90 degrees of being correct... It's what? 8 bolts....c'mon! Sticky on it as well...

Frank280ZX found several 280ZX's in my yard like that when he came the first time... He was amazed by the lack of rust, and ended up picking through all the piles. Really, there's no need to make them that small unless you are putting them in the recycling bin out front of the house for trash pickup and don't want to draw attention to yourself. I cut to the size that is easily tossable with one hand, and then go searching for unlocked dumpsters if it's something I don't want to bother taking to the scrapyard... But when the trailer is piled high...hey, that's $50!

Anybody remember the Buddy Hackett routine about him out in the boat fishing and thinking... "FF! FF! FF!"

oh oh...

You assume correctly, you've seen the posts, all the blah blah blah about the slow and low revving strokers... For guys that have built cars like that, you just gotta shake your head when you hear the internet parrots squawk. I've actually bookmarked that link for use the next time someone makes that contention at 'another site' where the parrots fly freely and make droppings on a regular basis. It's going to be good to post someone else's engine for a change...

It's pretty obvious, he states it clearly: the engine is below 50 CID. This is right in the CVC, they are exempt. Your engine is something like 168CID, you won't qualify. Now, I got to figure out how to get that guy to hold on to that jeep till I get back and buy it. I had an 80 exactly like that one but with a 550cc two stroker. I could not kill it, and it would climb trees, this is EXACTLY what I need for my back yard, and to double up behind the Z i nthe trailer when I go to El Mirage! I want that truck. Funny thing is he's asking $800 more than I paid for mine in 1984, and mine had less than 10,000 KM on it then! Sold it in 89 with almost 80K on it!

Now remember when viewing that: Strokers won't rev. Strokers are slow to rev. There is a crank harmonic...

Well I know when Frank was driving Jeff's car he was making it through 3 gears to a 7000 rpm redline in a set distance of about 1/4 mile, and back to a slow enough speed to make the corner... 0-90-0 in less than 1/4 mile. I wouldn't exactly make the offhanded remark of 'dyno queen numbers' with that kind of performance on tap. It's rather insulting, IMO.

It doesn't supply vacuum, it supplies fresh filtered and metered air and acts as a bypass around the throttle body for idle speed control. Put a bung in your piping coming back from the intercooler, and you will have the same thing you got now for functionality. The constant source for Manifold Vacuum to the AAC will work fine, if you have a later model AAC, with the little setscrew in it, you can just screw that screw in till the bypass allows the idle speed you want, and you don't even need to connect vacuum to it at all, it will act as a fixed idle bypass just like on EuroTurbo cars. Realiztically, all you need for idle is a 1/4 line, that is more than enough. I took a hose barb from one of the turbo scroll connections for the wastegate (my wastegate is hooked up to the plenum...) and ran 1/4" hose from there to a modified N/A idle air bypass screw thingamajig, and then plumbed it with a 1/4" hose to the manifold as a premanent bypass (like the Eurospec Turbo cars had...no AAC for them!) It will suppy enough air for anywhere from 300 to 2200 rpms. With a 1/4" barb hooked up like that, none of your pipes will need to have anything put into it. But it needs to have that boost reference, because if you hook it to the boot between the AFM and the turbo inlet....when you go on boost, it will leak through whatever metering device you are using (AAC, fixed idle bypass thingamajig) and blow boost into that same area. This is why it's on the J-Pipe to begin with. Hope that makes sense. I have photos of some of it on the 260ZT page at cardomain of sharkie73z...

Hey, facts are facts, when I assisted my friend do his "94 in a 74" LT swap with his Camaro and saw tunercat in action (since I had to teach him how to use it, HAVING NEVER WORKED ON IT BEFORE !).... For the price of the LT's now complete as drivetrains or hell even whole cars... it makes rationalization of expensive swaps really hard, if expense is considered. Why spend $4500 for something that is totally stressed and makes an honest 280-300, when you can spend the same and get 330 in stock form (or thereabouts?) Same goes for M-Sport crap in Europe. It's laying about everywhere. You can't even trade it for a loaf of bread. It's like rat turds, they brush them into the canals to get rid of them... When they proliferate like that, and get so cheap, it's hard to love on the OEM stuff. I mean, if I was going to do up a ZX.........