Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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The turbo Automatic pump had the longer gerotor assembly to compensate for the oil cooler and tubing used on that model.
Elsewhere in the world, most of the turbo motors got the larger pump as they had the oil cooler assembly wether they were automatic or not.
It does not have increased pressure, but flow. The Nissan Motorsports "High Pressure Spring Set" was actually from the LD pump...
There are specifications somewhere, but as a rule with any pump, the longer the compression section, the more flow it provides, regardless of RPMS...it's just a matter of physics.
The pumps are still readily available and cheap because of their existence on the KA series engines I believe. I know the oil pump gasket is the same on a KA and an L...
I don't know of anybody NOT running a Turbo Pump.
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Don't kid yourself, you won't ever hear the detonation that kills your engine. Likely, neither will the knock sensor. It can happen at 3 psi or 8, or 25psi.
As for the throttle, there is a two-piece linkage that bolts on the firewall that telescopes. They are on the later S30's and fit all earlier models. Using a portion of that linkage, and the ZX linkage it goes together jussst fine! Reaches and everything. Even the 78 S30 linkage should fit. When you swap back to SU's the thing telescopes all the way in and almost hits the firewall, and for the EFI setup you are all the way out.
For triples, depending on the manufacturer, you could be all the way in, out, or having to cut the linkage to make a really short one. Keep the portion from the ZX, they come in handy for cutting into the various lengths you need. It's a handy retrofit to earlier cars if you swap manifolds often for development. One linkage almost fits everything, and with a flipping of the removab le piece you can go in from underneath, or with a cut you can shorten it even shorter than stock.
I think all the EFI S30's had them. The fit fine into the ZX manifolds. It's what I used on my 260 with the 82 ZXT manifold. I think I used the S30 firewall piece, and the ZXT manifold linkage. But it may have been the stock linkage off a 1977 280Z.
Good Luck. Wave to all the guys at Pavillions for me. I haven't made a DZA event in years. Last time I was at a meeting, there was a guy runing up and down the road outside the dealership in his new 240 with an SR20DET with no headlights!
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The full dash caps were selling in Japan at one time for 30,000 yen, or about $300---2X what they were here.
Ironic, but they were blown here in the USA by the same people who do the LHD Dash Caps, but had an EXCLUSIVE distribution agreement for JAPAN only---so they can't sell/won't sell (as they shouldn't) to people on this side of the pond, they must be bought from the distribution system in Japan.
It's why, even now, 40 years later, you can still get S30 pieces from development companies.
Support your Z Vendors, when they go you're on your own!
I await that Japanese Assignment that gets me a Business Class ticket and all that free cargo accomodation called "Checked Baggage"!
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Several times.
My $125 Lein Sale 260Z went with me and my 8 year old son from SoCal to Thoiusand Islands (Kingston) Ontario Canada.
The Fairlady Z did a similar trip a year later. And we repeated annually.
The Fairlady Z was towing a trailer (800#) with three of us in the 2/2. My wife was workign nights at the time, so we literally started the car at 4PM after a graduation party in Tawas Michigan, and drove nonstop from there back home. I made it to St Louis, switched to her driving, then to me, stopped in Amarillio, and next thing I know I woke up outside Flagstaff, and drove home from there arriving at 11AM California time driving 36 hours straight (or something like that). Our longest stop was for a steak at the big texan in Amarillio. Other than that, like the trip out, I would do 3500rpms till I needed gas, stop for a 20 minute gas and dash stop, and drive on. When it's just me driving, I usually drive for 16 hours at a stretch like that.
I'd do it again, if I had the time. I have no reservations about doing it in just about any of my Z's.
And some of you have seen them. They don't look that great, but they run juuuuust fine!
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What does it say that this thread has more views than the 'Hybrid Z Rules and Guidelines, Please Read' sticky present in all the forums?
I just noticed that now...
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Oh, and Filmjay, check out ECTA, they hold land speed racing events over weekends (all two-day events, which is nice) at Maxton Airfield in Laurinburgh NC. That's less than a 14 hour drive from Mayfield KY, and they get competitiors from as far away as Alabama!
Same atmosphere and on concrete!
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I have a dream. A dream of vast expanses of dry lake beds and salt flats..and attaining my speed licenses from the SCTA!
I hope, one day, to be able to at least go for my 150 before I die.
If you guys need a sponsor or even someone to scrape the salt off, or even air up the tires, I'll be there ASAP!
If 150 is your goal, you should get with the USFRA (Utah Salt Flats Racing Association) they hold FAR more events at the Salt than the SCTA sponsors, and their requirements for the 150mph class are considerably less than going the full on dedicated race car approach. There is a guy in SLC that is prepping his street-driven S130 for their 150mph touring car class for that very same goal.
It's a much easier way to get a feel for the car at speed, do it on the salt, and have several attempts a year to do so. It's the Utah equivalent of us SoCal guys running at El Mirage to prep for Bonneville each year.
To have a dedicated race car is one thing. To have a certificate for your street car that says you have officially gone 15X.XXX Mph on Such-and-Such a Date, as certified by the USFRA... HOW COOL IS THAT?
Curiously, all those guys with 'Stock 160mph 240/260/280Z's' have never taken me up on the opportunity for me to pay their entrance fees at an USFRA event to prove me wrong about the speed capability of a STOCK (or triple webered and lowered) 240Z...
Hmmmmm...
I digress...
Seriously Though, check out the Utah Salt Flats Racing Association for information. It will only infect you further, though. Lets not lie about it. Once you get it, there is no cure...
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Being here in Morocco makes me have a penchant for fitting a Supercharged Buick 3800 Gen3 Suipercharged powertrain in the back (or wherever) of an old Renault 4.
Much as I love gas mileage, these unclean thoughts just creep up, and I don't know how to stop them!
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The LZ22 was not a DOHC engine, it was SOHC.
There was a DOHC "LZ" Engine for racing in JDM, which used the standard block, not the later NAPS-Z Block which is differentiated by the serial number pad being in a different place, amongst other things....
A photo here would be worth the money if it's a real "LZ" head, and not a "NAPS-Z" head.
Which many Americans mistakenly refer to as an "LZ" head...
The LZ head is DOHC.
The NAPS-Z head is not.
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Other than grossly multiplying the emissions out of the tail pipe, you won't notice the difference.
But your 'where' says 'NorCal' so your emissions laws DO say otherwise!
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The first photo appears to be Mike Mika's car, the one we copied in our attempt to break their record set in 75.
Question is where did you find these photos. They would have been invaluable during the protest discussions, and are now downloaded to my hard drive for printing and putting into the three-ring folder we keep with the cars white book (you know the one...)
If either of you could give me more links so I can view these photos from their original sources, it would be appreciated. It was pulling teeth at Isky to get them to turn loose the F/P 280 Coupe photo that was there---but the signed and dated information on the BACK of the photo was more important to us than the photo itself (I had taken current photos of the car in the Nissan Museum).
Didn't expect to see either photo! NEAT!
As far as 'live by the parts hoarde, die by it...
40' Sea Containers move with the ground. If you know how to pack them, nothing gets damaged in an earthquake!
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Al Bundy on the perfect woman:
"She would have three hooters. Two in front, one in back. You know, for dancing!"
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The parachute was not on the car in that photo. It's not required for the G/PRO record attempt (was around 141).
The pipe and roller (which is what you're seeing) is for the pushbar on the chase vehicle to push the car off the starting line, and when you're recovering pushing it back to the pits.
The size is due to having some 1" foam and shag carpet wrapped around it. Without it, you WILL swear and likely seriously injure yourself walking around the back of the car quickly one time, and get caught RIGHT BELOW THE KNEES with that damn thing! With the padding and carpet on there, it's just an 'Oh yeah' moment. When it's just the piping bare...well, it doesn't feel good at all...
The parachute we have is as JGK showed, and goes on a separate superstructure that is not installed (but you can see the holes for it in the bumper...)
As for "Mr. Fluid Dynamics", he needs to do more than read the results, he needs to read the extensive conversation that Alan Thomas added in regards to the G-Nose "As Tested in the Wind Tunnel" compared to what a real factory Nissan unit looks like.
Yeah, they put them all over cars in Japan for the SCCN Races because they weren't functional. Go back to tending your outdated Eagle. FYI, take a look at the airframe design date on that pig. The McDonnel Douglas Assembly line was pumping those out when people were still listening to disco. That's not a 'new' airframe by any means. Hell it was over 10 years old when I worked on it...24 years ago!
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LOL, I just realized I started this thread! LOL
Great to see someone involved with the car responded and is sharing their experiences. I totally forgot I posted this when I saw the car's number and name in the record report this year.
This is a 'Red Hat' affair. I bow to those with the Red Hat. One day, I too will have the Red Hat. Till then, I intently watch and learn.
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Oh, I just assumed it was Moroccan Internet Quirks...
Coulda fooled me if you kept quiet!
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My wife walked into the room and said "What the hell is that?"
I replied "My Mistress"
And that is how the fight started....
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There are two. I sent one to Calgary 280ZT and it was, of course, the 'wrong' one compared to what he had and had already exhaust plumbed the car for!
The L20ET manifold I had was exactly the same outwardly as the 81 I took apart.
But there is a 'forward' and 'rearward' location of the turbo---there are photos posted somewhere, that is true.
And there is the Euro Manifold, which has 1 5/8" runners and a hole for the turbo that doesn't have a big bump restricting flow to the scroll.
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That looks good. In a 240, you can use the 1/4" vent line from the driver's side fenderwell for your return---I have skipped the return line on the rail and hosed straight out from the stock FPR to it in some cases. At the back connect that return line to your setup as diagrammed.
The 'big' line on the passenger's side of the car is the 5/16" feed line up front from your apparatus.
As another possibility, take a look at some of the 77/78 280Z's---they have the HP Pump mounted up on the angled floor that is the 'bottom' of the storage bins in your 240. There isn't as much room there, but you can fit one HP pump using a 280 mount plate and some throughbolts. Since your reservoir will be slightly pressurized, you don't require the HP pump to be right close to it...and that allows you some leeway in what you have to fit on the plate. If you have a big reservoir (good idea), then moving the pump gives you a lot of room for locating it.
Good Luck!
If you have an R200 Differential, you can use a plate of aluminum that will bolt up to some threaded weldnuts in the chassis upper stringer. Using a different spacer than with an R180 (the moustache bar gets in different positions, and the plate will either be in front of, or behind the moustache bar!) you can put a pretty big plate back there---6"x 9" or so. Probably larger... It depends on where your differential is, really, and how fancy you want to get cutting the plate to fit around obstructions.
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Cosmoline is available in spray cans (orange and black) at most good industrial hardware stores.
LPS makes a wax-based preservative, that was used on aircraft in the tropics, which also works well.
it all depends on what you are planning for storage duration. If it's a week, WD to drive out the water, then like mentioned 10Wt oil of some kind (or even motor oil)
Anything more than a couple of days, knuckle under and buy some PROPER preservative oils that are persistent and STICK (this means it WILL be hard to clean off later!)
Really, if you have a FRESH, HOT, CLEAN block (like out of the caustic dip and flush), the best thing you can do is PAINT the damn thing ASAP, and grease/oil everything else. I have seen blocks that were PINK because that was what they could get cheap.
I have six cans of Cosmoline at home at all times. I have WD by the Gallon in manual sprayers, as well as PB Blaster. When in doubt, I brake-clean the thing, and liberally apply cosmoline. Then I go buy more.
You never know what life will throw at you, and if you get sidelined for two years...you DO NOT want to come back to a rusted bore because you cheaped out on preservative! It will take 15 minutes more of cleaning with light solvent to clean off cosmoline that has waxed up and hardened compared to other things (you can grease over the cosmoline after it's waxed up, then bag it as mentioned above!)
How long it gonna take to remachine and liner that bore...or surface grind and re-line-bore that journal gallery?
A couple of ounces of prevention beats a pound of cure in this instance to be sure!
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You are partly right... but dont think you can put nason for dupont or a cheaper line of some of these paints and its going to hold up the same... You will see the difference over time.
ABSOLUTELY!
I am a BIG proponent of Maaco paint with my own prep for daily drivers, simply because you can sand it off back to the prep work every 5-7 years and put another on-sale "Presidential Urethane" topcoat on the sound underworkings and look perpetually great.
BUT...
Along the lines of what gearheadstik said, I painted my 62 Microbus Red in 1982 with expensive multi-coated lacquer, and my "Shark Car" Black in 1985 with Rock Poly 10:1 (Japanese Imron if you need a brand equivalent). I had my wife's 66 Corvair Corsa Turbo painted Marina Blue Metallic in 1990 at Maaco for their Presidential Urethane.
ALL of these cars sat out in the sun without covering.
By 1997, the Corvair had matted, and now is downright flaky...that is, the paint is more akin to 600 crocus cloth than shiny paint.
The Bus, amazingly hasn't faded as I thought the red would over time. Though this year the first small checks started appearing in the paint.
The Polyurethane black on the Shark Car is like it was new. Actually, better than new, as it was 1994 before I ever got around to wetsanding and compounding out the orange peel from the original painting in '85.
If you use a Maaco paint job, understand there is a REASON they give you a 5-YEAR "no fading, lifting, peeling, cracking warranty".
If you are O.K. with blocking the car down every 5 years and having it reshot for $300 on sale, understand that will keep the car looking great if you don't garage it. How long it lasts in a garage and covered is unknown to me. But I know if you leave them parked outside the more you spend on the materials (topcoat especially) the longer the paint's durability.
Boat Paint (Linear Crosslinked Polyurethane) was given to have a 20 year lifespan under the most harsh conditions. It's one of the few places you can still find original solvent-based paints used...and then outside CA...
Don't think a $299 paint job is the same as one that is $2000. The materials likely are quite different. As for buying them the paint...I've always gotten with the manager and asked what system they use and match my materials accordingly. If I'm going to buy the paint, I'm going to squirt it myself.
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Until SCTA changed their website recently you could find shots of us at the World Finals, in 2000, 2001.
It's a Silver 280Z 2+2, with Red Sides and Blue Accents. Double Limo-Tint on the windows side and back with Moons.
Shoot me a PM and I can send you some shots to your email account....Oh, waitaminit! I just remembered these online:
Everybody seems to like the last one best...
D'jya think the trailer, residing and bought in SoCal has been to the salt a couple of times? LOL
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Second one is for the Supra.
Blue one is SECOND GENERATION HKS Surge Tank.
The one I copied was FIRST GENERATION (circa 1984)... The yen had just taken the surge against the dollar, and what was $500 now was $1000...
And I had the time, tools, and inclination to reinvent the wheel!
Almost.
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is there a picture of #220 available to view?
"On the Cover of the 2000 Rule Book"
(Actuating schrader valve near ear and deflating head...)
And Challenger is correct, the #929 Red Cosworth Vega in G/PRO protested us on 'production part' grounds. That's why the 2008 rule book says you have to be an SCTA-BNI member to lodge a protest or request a rule clarification...wasted a year with that nonsense. Now since they upped and bumped the record a couple of MPH, likely we will have to use a real E30 or E31 head instead of the E88 from the L28 we had on there. I mean, hell we were making 205 to the rear wheels with something like 10 or maybe 11:1 compression. You can only pop so much dome on a 2-liter piston into a 2.8 liter combustion chamber! We ran 14.5:1 in the L28, and really we should have been running 14.75 or 15:1 in the smaller engine. Along with a much more radical cam... but cheapskates we are, we jsut cut the block and put the L28 head on the 2 liter 'to see what it would do'---About 141 at El Mirage from initial testing before we got shut down with the protest. That nixed the Salt for that year. Got protested up there and had a record rescinded once before, so we weren't going all that way until the item was solidly resolved. Now that I have my own trailer and tow rig, it makes doing the events easier as we arent dependent on just one guys' work schedule. But I digress...
"Always wanting to build a lakes car" and actually doing it are two very different things indeed! Spend some time with the nev-r-dull and polish the tailfeathers some more on that Eagle. I don't know what set that off, but I'm glad it's gone.
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Preaching to the choir here about weight and spoiler angle! At El Mirage the little spoiler cut 3mph at only 140. Imagine the usless drag at 200+ Car #220, F/PRO...
Stringfellow stretched the cowl some ridiculous amount in front of the A-Pillar, that indeed is the car.
There's a car under construction in Whittier CA (Pike's) now with a five foot stretch in front of the cowl, and he's running a G-Nose. I think his queries with the rules committee put the protest on #220 to bed two years ago.
Widebody is a bit off the mark with the commentary, Daeron pretty much covered it. I'm with John C in his comment on the remarks...
Did a search. L28ET swap into S30 Q's.
in Nissan L6 Forum
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The 5 piston Ross Forged Piston Distruction happened at 8.39psi at less than 4500 rpms...
We never heard a thing.
True, it was at WOT... but you may never know, until you notice the blowby and innocently check the compression or do a cylinder leakdown test (which has become easy, now that Harbor Freight sells a leakdown tester!)