Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Actually, if I get information on it, we can put it out to the Orange county Z Car Club (Group Z) as well as the four other Z-Car Clubs in SoCal depending on how big a splash you want to make.
If it's like Empire Z's Avocado Run, they had 70 Z's from four clubs show for that run. That would be impressive in the parking lot. Maybe even local newsworthy....
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I just can't view the facebook page without logging in...
Just east of Corona, Man. Parked on '260 Island' ever since MSA moved to the new venue, and in attendance at every MSA event there ever been!
"I'm worldwide" LOL (Literally, I'm sending this to you from Mohammedia, Morocco)
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How do we know it's water in the glass, absent of properties testing?
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Oh, I guess I have to join facebook to be part of it....
Oh well. Bummer.
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It's like guys in Letterman Jackets jumping out of the stealth vehicle to pick up thrown hubcaps after doing a lawn job in the rival town's schoolyard during afternoon classes....
Doesn't it kind of give up that anonomity the Red Light Cameras BEG for?????
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Liked they said above, Skyline, Cedric, etc....
That one is odd in that it's a late-model with EGR and an actual AIR setup. Normally they do not have those on the run of the mill early JDM items out there. My 77 Cedric had a similar setup. I trashed it.
Now, you find that HA30 4 Barrel setup from the 67 model....let me know!
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PSI: "Peeled Skin Index" The way automotive things were tested when men were men and sheep were sheepishly silent...
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I have to smile watching that...
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Considering the sweetness of the sound and the fact that you are getting 231hp to the wheels, who needs a turbo?
Same/Similar Sound, double the horsepower....that's who needs a turbo!
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So stikcing your tuumb over the plug hole and seeing if they all 'fart' at you and calling is 'good enough' is considered wrong nowadays?
What have things come to in the automotive world. Next thing you know you'll tell me ebuillent cooling had been supersceeded, and gum rubber tyres have been improved!
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I had one e-mailed a while ago involving how stupid anybody was for thinking any of the given animals could get a banana out of a coconut tree.
This, of course was found after I replied with a scope exception for the Giraffe, and clarification on the height of the tree containing the banana because the original scope didn't state the banana grew on the tree, merely that it was in the tree.
it was at that time I decided I had been doing scope and specification a bit too long and needed a break.
Not a joke, but when you argue the specifics of the joke before reading the punchline...welll....
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I almost went apopletic on a national service manager who offhandedly said "that's the cost of troubleshooting" when I asked about the customer paying for a $2800 Printed Circuit Board alone (which we called in the first place---it was a broken trace with a capacitor bleeding down) but the FACTORY said we FIRST had to replace two different power supplies and a motor transition timer to get to that point!
Customer was NOT happy.
Neither was I, my reply was "That's not the cost of troubleshooting, that's the cost of replacing every part in the system from one end to the other until the most expensive part is the only thing left!"
They then decided it was time to review all my warranty claims. Which I was fine with...found out my boss was spoofing them up crazily and raping them for extra money.
About that time...I quit!
I hate unethical people, but incompetent unethical people really set me off!
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"Diversify and Survive"... (?)
Never really thought about the HiFire and electronics, but I'm sure they were added to the line. Many companies take on lines and lines of products that they eventually become know for, but neglect the core business that got them where they were.
There's nothing wrong with doing one thing well, and sticking to it IMO. I've seen many companies 'diversify to survive' right into Ch11.
It's a sad day, Crane is gone. An 'alternative' is always good to have around.
I hope Isky sticks with Cams and cam related products... If so, I'll be fine!
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Prevost Motor Coaches have this as an option, if you so choose. Not only for backing the rig, but for watching down the side in the 'blind spots' where the mirrors hung off the top of the coach can't see.
Color Monitors and everything!
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On that statement of having pressures equal behind the radiator and in front of it...the fan will then impart flow. Equal pressures only need flow imparted to them to move air from one side to another.
The reason they are overheating is usually poor or little attention paid to the cooling system.
If this was a truisim, the L6 would exhibit the exact same characteristics.
Many S30 racers, where allowed cut one or two 3" diameter holes in the fenderwells to exit behind the tire (like JC mentions in his rolling donut analogy) on each side. It not only exhausts the engine bay more efficiently, you will notice the FRP hood does not bow out 1" above the strut towers at 100mph any more...
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Given the choices of poison mentioned here, I'd pick GM3800 than anything renault.
Especially for installation in a 4!
(though an early 80's F1 Renault 1500 Turbo could change my mind, were one to come into my posession for equivalent $$$)
Baarring that, I'd pick GM. Delorean anybody? The last mix of GM Engineer and a Renault Powertrain.
I figure using the Renault Chassis, and GM Powertrain would be a real winner!
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If the photo is to be believed, yes, it's a Z432 Exhaust.
One for a run of the mill S30 IS STILL AVAILABLE in Japan, and will run you around 70,000 yen, not including the header (another 45 to 120,000 yen depending on your tastes in construction material). This is an immitation of the Z432 Exhaust in 50 mm tubes instead of the twin 60's the 432 used-usually in mild steel as well, and not the 432's stainless.
Greddy/Trust, OS, and any number of JDM manufacturers produced them in the day, and now there are companies dedicated to selling 'Old School' parts.
My suggestion is you contact Alan Thomas in the UK for his sugggestion on sourcing in your locality. If you were to have access to a breaker's yard in Japan, these parts (which are near indestructible, mine has been on a car since 1978 and was one of the first Trust systems sold!) would see for much less secondhand. Even having access to a real system would lend itself to replication by any competent exhaust-smith...
Of course, the stainless steel parts that started surfacing in the late 80's are the way to go, if you can find them.
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I would tend to agree with the blowthrough cooling. My triple mikuinis ran 17 unintercooled, and they say it can't be done.
Most of the Japanese cars that converted to FI, went with ITB's that replaced the Mikuinis or OER's that they were previously running, and they injected near the same point, not at the port. The guys at Fuji raceway said they had to use either more fuel or less boost or 'bad things happened' so the cooling with the injected fuel even at the same point (or relatively same point) as a carb doesn't seem to work as well.
I should put some theromcouples in my intake and check it out, huh?
Nice ride, the guy I worked with had a Grand National, until someone wanted it more than he did. So with the insurance money he bought a red vette roadster. I said he was a sell-out... LOL
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Sounds like you and I run in the same circles. "I checked everything, and it's all checking good."
Book a flight, fly for 18 hours. Stay in a hotel, drive 4 hours to a site in the middle of nowhere...start at square one of the diagnostic regimen...and usually within a couple of easy steps I nail the issue.
I then usually get to spend three more days 'proving' why I fixed it, because 'there is no way you could have fixed it that quickly, Qwak is a Masters Degree in Electrical Engineering it must be something different as he was telling us!' Finally it's accepted that I DO know what I'm doing, and I can go home. A week (or more) at exorbitant rates, a roud trip plane ticket, and 36 hours in the air all because a guy can't use a VOM or follow precise testing suggestions.
On the way out of the jobsite, I have to restrain myself from yelling at the top of my lungs as the guy repeats AGAIN for the millionth time how hystersis looks just like these symptoms: "Yes, theoretically hystersis in the input filter circuit could cause a problem, but not in this case----this time (and most times) it was condensate filling up the transmitter and causing it to fail intermittently and give bad output. If you had more time behind a digital VOM and less time behind his master's thesis, perhaps you would have understood this when I tried to explain it lo these past several months. If I tell you to WIGGLE the damn thing while standing on one foot balancing a plate on your head, you don't ASK WHY, you just damn well DO IT and tell me what the f-ing meter reads!"
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Thankfully, I deal with foreign customers for the most part now. Outside of the USA. I don't have to fight with the ludicrous arguments I used to do when I only handled domestic 'distributors'.
I feel for ya when you say "tech's that should not be in the business"...
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The difference in thermodynamic efficiency (hence the power gain you could expect under ideal conditions) between 7.4cr and 10cr is about 10%. The L-series makes in the neighborhood of 100-120hp naturally aspirated when off boost (if this case probably up to ~3500rpm).
Here in this statement alone the largest potential lies untapped. The horsepower numbers there are about HALF what a properly built L Engine will produce. Say an L28 should be making near 300HP in N/A trim with modest compression (I'm talking relatively...not 14:1 by a longshot).
The difference between the 120 HP N/A L28, and the 300 HP L28 is flow.....
You want more power in your turbo engine, make the head flow. For so many years people were drubbed by Dr. Bell into believing that 'you just add boost' and you amke horsepower. Sure, that's true, no denying it. But if you want to do it at a LOW boost level, then you have to take the same steps N/A builders have used since time began: Make the head flow properly, maximizing flow into and out of the ports and power will follow.
I disregard most characterizations on 'spool' or 'lots' of hp as they're indefinite...they really mean nothing. What is 'lots' to someone may be paltry to another. Most of the time I have dioscussions with people regarding 'turbo lag' it's because they are driving below boost threshold...same as what happens in an N/A with a Cam, sluggish performance till it comes on! And because the boost makes such a difference the effect is much more pronounced!
I have seen people take L-Race Heads that were on N/A's for years, and put them on a turbo motor with startling results. A cam change to proper valve event timing, and the flow is just waiting to happen.
Power comes from flow. If you don't have flow, you can't make power.
Boost is just a measure of restriction to flow...
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I bought the entire wiring harness, dash, steering gear including switches, rack assembly, and a ton of other stuff off an E-Bay auction from some guy selling it all for a $9.99 sale minimum ad. I e-mailed him directly for questions on what exactly he had, and that I was interested in buying some major parts from the car. But he would only list them as a $9.99 sdtarting bid price. So I got my spare rack for 9.99, my spare RHD switch assembly (along with steering wheel and specail center button) for 9.99, the RACK for 9.99, and the killer of all deals a cracked but complete with all instruments DASHBOARD ASSEMBLY for 9.99.
I would have given him a starting offer of $150 for the steering gear alone, but he insisted on posting auctions and not elevated-price 'buy it now'...sometimes it's either greed or stupidity, but it infects sellers and they do stoopid things. I was willing to pay a LOT more for what I got, but NOBODY was bidding on it.
Sad thing is the guy likely had other parts that were RHD particular that I could have put into the hoard if he'd only have sent me photos or allowed me to give him a 'wish list'.
I mean, I got the RHD Heater and Blower assy for 9.99! WOO HOO!
Pedal Assembly, 9.99....
It was funny and bloody all at the same time! The carnage was spectacular! Muahahahaha...
And that guy was out of IDAHO!
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I install it as a matter of course. Nissan decided to add it for some reason or another---likely some sort of tunnel flex was noticed.
I mean, it's not a real weight penalty at all...
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I disregarded the varied speed thing personally. Leaving St. Louis on the 2004 trip I ran into a bunch of idiots in a Dodge Neon. They soon learned that their car had a speed limiter installed.
My 260, on the other hand, petered out at 4750rpms...so I just kept it floorboarded till it was time to get gas.
83 ZX Five Speed, Stock Tire Height, 3.70 R180 Gear out back...
Come to think of it, I DID vary the throttle position...but it didn't make any difference, it would still only go 4750 rpms in fifth wether I was 3/4, 7/8th or floorboarded. So my deduction was varying the position was irrelevant.
For $300, you couldn't buy the gas...
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Curious, my 225mm clutch has held up fine in turbo service.
It all depends on what you are doing, and what clutch material you use.
It's not a 'mandatory' item by any means.
The argument can be made that the increased moment of inertia of the 240mm Pressure Plate kills a lot of throttle response in small throttle transients.
My wife hates my turbo car, because she says it has an 'on-off throttle'...
Muahahahahaha!
Compression results. Opinions?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
In general, the compression test is how the cylinder pumps up as much as what it pumps up to as a final number.
Generally accepted is the 3 to 5 pump rule. The first pump is what is referred to as 'cranking compression' and should always be near 100psi. This is a general number that allows the engines to fire reliably and self-sustain the combusion process. You will notice people at higher altitudes with low compression cars have an issue starting, and they also may have a cranking compression around 65psi!
The second-to-fifth pump will determine what condition the rings are in, as well as the valves. If you jump 95/125/155 and then maintain 155 through the next to pumps in the cylinder, this would indicate a generally well balanced performance.
If you had the same engine, but went 135,155,155 you may deduce maybe carbon deposits (though likely the number would b e higher, like 175)---without a baseline test to know what it was before, a 'grab sample' of numbers is useless. This is the reason the compression test should be performed every 30K miles when the valves are adjusted. Do one before and one after and see how the performance changes. If you haven't done this before, you will be surprised!
If you see an engine that goes 95, 120, 135, 145, 155...it's having issues pumping up to pressure. The rings may be a little worn. It should never take more than 3 to 5 pumps to bring the compression to it's highest point.
But then you will get guys that use 'held in' gauges, which are useless. Or others with cheap gauges or bad dials you can't really read.
Which puts you back on saying the number it'self is about meaningless.
It's how the number is reached, and that the differential between them is minimal that is the most important.
I have had people 'condemn' and engine because of 'low compression' of 100psi. Car would start reliably, and didn't consume oil, but their 'mechanic' condemned the engine to 'needing an overhaul' after doing his compression test. Thing would bang at 75, 85, 100psi and stay there on the gauge.
Put my gauge on it, and it was 110, 145, 175!
Remember "Thread in Connections"... (I'm sure that guy justified a hearty engine overhaul business based on his 'trusty old gauge set'...)
Now, about this ebuillent cooling and wood alcohol gassification project I've been hearing so much about...