Tony D

Many will encase the fuel lines inside a larger pipe of hefty wall when in the vicinity of the flywheel 'plane of rotation' as wel...

Some quick internet searching validated my recall of history. This is a 'bought rights' company, and this explains the disconnect from their heritage: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-143375.html

please report back to us on what they say. it was my understanding when the principal died and the doors closed in SoCal, that his reminaing inventory of Datsun Cams were bought by another Datsun Vendor still in business. I have seen Datsun Competition part numbers on R.B. Cams, but it's my understanding this current group disavows any recollection of ever doing any work with Datsun Comp, Nissan Motorsports, etc... I see that site has Chevy cams.... Maybe this is like the 'new Bugatti' or 'Indian Motorcycle Company'... I would be interested in the 'evolution' of the company since the principal's passing/original shuttering of the business. I have to correct that, in that the new company doesn't recall work with BRE. I was mistaken in their disavowal of NISMO and it's predecessors. Later NISMO components were the Isky Assymetric Grinds done by Ron Iskendarian in the early 80's from what I have been told.

Have your shop do the work on an L28 instead. You will be wasting serious money making a 260 engine that will never perform as well as an L28...

easiest answer is to simply use the stock EFI pump and the regulator like SHOZ mentioned. This will be good to easily 350rwhp, possibly more. I have never checked the flow rating of the EFI pump at 20psi (what it would have to make a 17psi inlet pressure) but it's considerably more than what it does in EFI service at 37psig. I know someone who used a holley fuel pump (red?) and kept detonating his engines to death once he hit over 12psi. I told him I used the EFI pump, and was good to 17 (er...21psi) and couldn't understand what the issue was. Then I realized terminal pressure in the Holley was only 15psi, and starting around 12psi, the effective pressure to the carbs float bowl needle would only be 3psi under perfect conditions of no frictional losses through the stock pipes... Basically at 17psi, he was blowing air back down the fuel system and making bubbles in his tank while the float bowls ran dry and his detonation progressed to terminal effect... Everybody in Japan used the EFI pumps, if they needed more flow, the simply used more in parallell. I have seen as many as three stock 280ZXT Pumps in Paralell, each feeding their own OER 50 on drag S30's and S130's that were running in the 9's back in the mid-late 80's.

no, it's not it's a open box by the looks of it, a quick cheap copy.

Similar to Austin's Experience I had similar symptoms that I swore were ignition related save forthe way the car would pull if I slightly lifted my foot off WOT. Turned out one of the damn jets was in the 'start' (almost all the way down) position. I went round and round for quite a while under the logic I had just gong through the carbs and the jets were working fine. Something got in there and made it stick, and viola...no running over 5600rpms! Surged, bucked, acted like there was a rev-limiter. Stuck that jet back 'full up' retwisted the carbs to proper mixture and it zings right up there like it did years ago!!! Not having time to do much more, I have to start the car without the starter system, kind of a pain when it's less than 50 degrees out...not doing my starter any favors, but I got other things to do than go through those SU's again.... I'll get to it when it's nearing fall I suppose...through some necessity or anger over having burned up a perfectly servicable starter due to sloth alone!

I mounted an EFI pump up front initially when I converted to Triples. I had a heluva time getting over 80HP to the rear wheels. Changed jets and didn't help. Dyno operator said to put the pump out back, because it wasn't working like it's supposed to be sucking all the way from the back through a 10mm line. Repositioned the pump to the rear on a 260 electric pump bracket (bolts are there on all the 240's...) and I got a quiet pump that supported 145hp. Only thing I changed was putting the pump in the rear of the car. Still sucked through a 10mm line! And that was with an EFI pump pushing 3.5psi. I dread to think what it would do having that high of a suction head to overcome and try to pump to 35psi+!!! If sound is a concern (????) rubber mount it and use a rotary Bosch or Walbro type. They are very quiet. Another alternative, which I did on another car was to push fuel up front with a Bendix Style pump that self-regulated to 3.5psi, and ran the EFI pump in/off a surge tank mounted in front of the radiator. Even the stock 240 Ticker Pump will work like that if you use a surge tank up front.

Don't even kinda feel guilty, last set I had sent from Europe ran me a whole 35 Euros, shipped on the seller's business account as a courtesy! I was showcked when they arrived, as the 'ship from' zone was up north, and the lenses were not fogged or in any way 'solarly affected'!!! So nice I just stuck em right in with just a cursory wipedown by hand with the Orange Bottle of 'Plastic Re-Nu' I picked up some place. That was last year about this time. There are deals to be had down under! It's a "Reasonable" price. As for 'tacky' stuff, I know of some gum in black, but don't know how well it will retain the lens long-term. RTV is a pretty much permanent solution it will be a bear to remove. The only thing I could think of is maybe some really low-temperature Hot-Melt kind of adhesive that would deactive it's grip under a heat lamp or Heat Gun (around 175-200 degrees) Anything hotter and you will risk damaging the lens plastic. That would be a simple matter of dropping them in boiling water to separate the components. How does that Gorrilla Glue work? I know it's pretty sticky stuff and is a urethane based compound...maybe some sort of anti-urethane. If you wanted something quick off the top of my head, find some Air Conditioning DUM DUM compound (HVAC Guys that do ductwork should have 20# sticks of it laying around) and just run the perimiter with it, saving several spots where you would use RTV to actually 'retain' the lens. That should work pretty well, and be much easier to remove as you only have a few places bonded with the RTV instead of all that surface area around the perimiter.

Nissan did in those S30's that were fitted with the 100 Liter Petrol Tank...

Are those Skyline RB26 Turbos? That was a popular "Low Buck" conversion when the Skylines first started hitting the junkyards in pileups (er...1989...) Looks to go to the 'Standard Trust JDM Header Flange"

Clear RTV seems to work well. JUST REMEMBER TO LEAVE THE DRAIN HOLES OPEN ON THE BOTTOM OR IT WILL FILL UP WITH WATER! One of our clubmembers here sealed them 360 degrees, and didn't realize when he washed the car the white plastic is not a 'watertight injection moulding' and filled the bottom of the lights with water. As he sealed the two little retangular drain openeings on the bottom of the lens, the water had nowhere to go and (luckily) on the drive that weekend it was a big source of amusement. The water was soooooo slose to shorting out his lower sockets! The big issue, of course is minimal condensation, as it will take forever to get out, and totally corrode your sockets in short order.

Looks to me like Two of the 48's will support 240HP...that's pretty stout. Who here makes more than that? Realistically the 48's are more than enough for a direct replacement for SU's...just as they are designed to be! Setting them up on SU manifold should be a pretty easy setup. You guys want everything handed to you? Jeez!

Man, I guess I should have kept a couple dozen left over from the car show to send you guys wanting one. I was giving them away! Living here has it's advantages. The guys involved in the mag are cool, have spent the time to beat feet to various local car clubs and car shows related to the genre. It's nice to see a "Japanese Style" enthusiast magazine here...finally.

Fred Crow in Anaheim will make the belts any length you want, but their wraparound kits have pretty long shoulder belts, you just order the 72" versions. Jim Diest will do the same. Most of them will, just take a look at their online catalogues, lots of time they have the option to leave the length open. But you can always shorten a long set. Just buy long, and shorten it. EGADS! those aren't racing harnesses those are off-brand I-don't-know-what-spec stuff! I'd pay the $78 per side for a set of Crow Belts---at least they are type approved. I didn't see any certification on those e-bay cheapies. I wouldn't be buying helmets (off brand) or belts (off brand) when it comes to anything to do with my life...

Take a look at any Nissan T/B and you will see a grey substance around the edges of the butterfly and a corresponding grey substance around the periphery of the T/B where the butterfly mates to it. Almost like someone took a q-tip and swabbed the whole diameter of the Butterfly with something. It's a persistent sealant that Nissan Uses to seal out the imperfections. Where they get it, I do not know, but someone at Nissan Motorsports told me they did acquire it for 'overbored' T/B's used in SS racing (cheating)... I don't know the composition, but it's persistent and won't come off unless you sand it off with something abrasive---carb cleaner won't touch it! Neither will chlorinated solvents, alcohol, or brake cleaner. Real thin coating, fills all those little imperfections!

Don't mix S30 and S130 in the same thread, you guys will muck it up for sure! The NACA duct on the S130 hood, BTW is dual purpose. During high speed driving the duct lets air in, and through a channel acrtoss the hot isde of the turbo---it's a high to low pressure flow path. When at low speed, the VENTED AREA BEHIND the NACA Duct allows turbo heat to simply convect UPWARDS through the hood. It's a dual-purpose opening. Same as underbelly pans. The S30 stock pan went from the lower radiator support structure back to almost the transmission mounting member, with the left side cut out to accomodate headers and large exhaust used on the Z432.

I hound E-Bay for old Dells. You can get 1.8ghz laptops with a full XP setup and MS Office Suite for under $200 any day of the week. I lost my job a month ago, and luckily I had an old laptop to 'go mobile' while job hunting. It's reasonably fast on the aps, allows me to seamlessly move from my company laptop and not miss a beat. New comany laptop is faster with a core2 duo, but nothing spectacularly better than my circa 2004 Dell Inspiron 2650. And for that matter, my Circa 2000 Vaio 1.6 with an AMD processor! I firmly believe in "obsolete technology"---IT'S STABLE AND CHEAP! So you have $200 into a laptop you only use in the garage. When you're drunk one night and dump your beer on the keypad, or knock it off the workbench or fender....it's a lot less stressful than having to explain to your BOSS why the company laptop smells like a brewery...or has Silver Metallic Spray Pattern Checks on the back of it. Now, the other Boss may whine about $200 for another replacement, but eventually the carnage builds up to a sufficient level that you can make another one out of the dead bits and give it to the kid...I know I did! LOL (BTW, all service documentation and restore stuff for the Dells is usually available on E-Bay from Ex-USA sources, it's how I wiped/recovered a locked HD from corporate dumpster...free is free!) One other thing that irks me: "Learning" and OS.... Microsoft makes the stuff so damn complex and counter-intuitive that you actually HAVE to "LEARN" how to use it. Does anybody else feel that is wrong? Amiga and Mac used intiuitive OS interfaces that seem much more friendly that you spend less time 'learning' and more time 'doing'... I had to unlearn logic when I started using Microsoft products!

Same path I tread. I always asked myself why the Datsun crowd never heard of 'modulator rings' or knew of the Dellorto Turbo-Specific DHLA's from the Maserati BiTurbo... My VW Training came in handy years later on the Datsun... That being said, the VW has a nice long separation between intake manifold and carb, and no hot manifold and turbo underneath to cook the carbs. Your best bet is Mikuinis with cooling bodies for a turbo application, heavily heat shielded. For the cost of that setup, you can get used ITB's and EFI that will run better than any Carb Blow Though ever did. Even CB and Gene Berg realized that years ago and started selling EFI for street applications. Especially with the turbo setups!

All the Nissan L-Plenums are designed to have the dual-stage style T/B on them---that's why the 'egg-shaped' hole is there---it readily approximates the small and larger bores. And the L20E plenums are much smaller than the L28E's in that area. None of the L-Engine plenums I have ever seen had a 'round hole' on them, they were all egg shaped.

Wire mesh? Phhhht! WE here use advance composite technology: Fibreglass Screen, PLEASE! For the ultimate lightweight composite manifold plenum repair...

Some Japanese guy in the homeland will see these photos and become determined he must posess this piece of hardware... Plenum or Engine Mount, take your pick! Looks Good!

Better question is: Will the driver in his seated position be tall enough to allow the strut tower to be used as an anchor point according the the belt manufacturer's instructions! You can get belts any length you want, that is not the issue. Wether you can anchor them properly according to the 'shoulder height' of the driver is another...

I will second Bryan's comment of shooting for NO gap. The bypass is your idle control. Frank280ZX just went through this on his ITB setup and wasn't getting an idle below 2300, after screwing them down to even a paper-thin opening (like less than 0.003" cracked, it was still idling the car at 1700 rpms. Normally a fixed bypass orifice sets the 'no stall minimum idle speed' (say 700rpms) and the IAC makes compensations ABOVE that point---so even iwth an IAC, you are wise to incorporate a fixed or variable bypass orifice from the external air source to keep the IAC working near it's seat, instead of much wider open...makes for better and smoother PID control of the IAC when your A/C kicks on (or whatever). Working the IAC near seat keeps air velocity up and helps prevent buildup. You will be cleaning your IAC if you don't have a good air filtration setup! EFI is designed to idle with the throttle closed for maximum intake manifold vacuum off-idle. You can always make a non-linear throttle actuation to help tip-in form a low idle, but you will play hell trying to get your idle down to reasonable levels with the six throttle plates open. A simple 1/4" vacuum hose is what I have controlling bypass air to all my engine, and with a reworked 82/83 NA idle air bypass needle valve through that 1/4" hole I can raise the idle to over 2200rpms easily. They don't take any air at all to idle! Kinsler throttle plates, why make the jig...they're cheap! I heard you could get the same grey sealant that was OEM on the Nissan TB's for total sealing once the T/B is staked to the shaft. Nissan guys got ahold of some, ideally that is the way to go, than way you can use a slightly 'loose' butterfly and minimize the chance of Sticking when it gets hot or loaded with debris...like some of the TWM bodies are known to do...

This isn't that hard. As far as you can go lean is what I mentioned "Lean Best"---turn your properly balanced and float adjusted non-spark misfiring SU's Mixture Nuts upwards till you see on the tachometer a 25rpm drop in steady idle speed. Then back them out 1/2 turn. That is ALL I did on a 1971 to pass to CALIFORNIA 1983 Standards. My allowable emissions were 1/10th what a 1973 was allowed to put out, and the car ran well, got 27mpg, and was happy during the cool times. When it got hotter, it liked it a bit richer, and the mileage fell off a bit, but there is a WIDE lattitude on these setups for where the engine 'runs'. If the car can't pass a simple tailpipe test....something is wrong and you need to fix it---no iff's and's or buts about it. ESPECIALLY with a stock cam or even fairly warmed over cam and higher compression. Don't be slothful, make the car run correctly. You are doing yourself no performance favors running 'pig rich', you ARE loosing horsepower running that way!