Tony D

When will we hear it run?

Coffee has just got to screw with all my plans! What, now I will have to make my own bullet muffler for fear of internal collapse and fiber blowout... Damn those investigatibe people with Band Saws!

I have been for a drive in the aforesaid converted vehicle, and took a few snaps of the setup. I just don't have them with me right now. It drove well and I did not notice anything untoward...other than you NEED a full-size spare to use the "Ringtank" Xander speaks of... I don't have time to screw around with it... If I do anything I will drop in an LD28 for the time being, at an out-the-gate MPG of 40, it will easily justify the 10% cost premium over Premium Fuel the 260 currently requires to drive around (and STILL ping on hot days!) Hell, I may convert to diesel AND be able to run A/C...Maybe in the ZX... The commercial Fueling Station near my house is currently at $3 a gallon when premium petrol is selling for $4.54...and I have been apprised that the home fueling option has almost doubled (wooo) in price to closer to $.80 a gasoline gallon equivalent. Some school districts have been found selling CNG 'off the books' for the bulk price they fuel their busses with...which is around $1 a gallon equivalent. You just have to know when to show up so you get 'the best fill' for your fueling time available. The CNG Station on Aviation and 104th by LAX has added a secondary storage cylinder bank, as well as a Sulzer Compression Skid, so it's seemingly pumping a lot more fuel these days... Maybe I will buy one of those Surplus CNG Lincoln Town Cars...

What? Aircraft Spruce not have anything to your liking? You said 'Jet Cockpit'---nothing more 'Jet Cockpit' than real aircraft gauges!!!

"only other thing you will have to look for is that the 2+2 is officially wider than the coupe (But I believe that this is in the bum). So the floors may actually be a little wider." No, the cars are the same width. The difference is the length added behind the seats for the rear seat legroom. Everything from midpoint forward on the rocker panels is pretty much compatible. The pinchweld around the windscreen is thicker on the 2+2...but I doubt you will be using that portion of the car...

One day, I really need to start scanning all those slides to digital format...

"Its starting to look like a jet cockpit in there instead of a car." Check out the instrumentation section at Aircraft Spruce for the Westech and other small aircraft instrumentation. There are many combinations of gauges you can have from there, and since some small aircraft run on 12V, they are compatible with automotive instrumentation. I have been using a Lycoming Head Temperature Sender on my VW Bus for over 20 years now.... FAA Approved gauges are not 'cheap' though... be forewarned. Buy the stuff from the 'for Experimental Aircraft only, not FAA Approved' column!

Neither Does---they are both open. The biggest obstacle is the form of the glass is totally different and would require structural modifications to the body or extensive fabrication of the surround to fit the coupe.

Likely the synchronisation of the carburettors is screwed. If you haven't set it, and set the throttle stop screws for the proper idle speed and idle airflow, your carbs will not suck air. A suction piston will not cause this at idle. You have to work hard to stick a suction piston. Idle speed screws are for setting idle synchronisation, the screw on the crossbar linkage between the carbs is set for off-idle synchronisation. You need to check both with an airflow meter or mercury manometer. Read the applicable FSM section, or watch the Z Therapy Video---both should get you through synchronisation and on your way towards the next step in the engines' carb tuning process: Mixture Adjustment. Why do I say "synch"---when you pull the STARTER LEVER (it's not a choke on the Round Tops...it is on the Flat Tops, though...) you move the jet down and use a cam to activate the throttle plate and move it off the stop the idle speed screw sets it at. If you aren't sucking air with the starter system off, and ARE with the starter engaged...it means you have to open that rear throttle plate somewhat and let the air through.

Challenger has it. The lid swaps, and if you don't want to go through all that, simply take the little nuts off the back of the "Fairlady" emblem and replace the Datsun 240Z logo on your existing box...that way you still retain the FMVSS information on tires and the key code sticker.

De nada, mi amigo! I told all! It was funny to hear you say that. At least I didn't say anything about 'a new dimension in pain' and the fetal position... I was "bitched" out of getting the seats and door panels from the 60 Corvair today. Between them not wanting to sell the parts separately at Ecology, and flack I got from even mentioning I was at a junkyard, it just became a worthless day. Now, I look forward to Abu Dhabi as a welcome release from hell.

Those look like the Patton Machine SU adapters---where did you get them?

Doing fine up to the 'Oh, and I am going to turbo them.' You are asking for a world of hurt.

He doesn't tell the best part...I put it forth for the quote of the month: "I was just driving down the road and the oil pressure went away...and I lost a rod bearing! I'm finished with the L's for now, I'm putting in an F-ing M5 Engine, I can get one with a gearbox for under 3000 F-ing euros!" Eeeeeasy there, Big Fella. Next thing you know, he's going to wear cowboy boots and emigrate to Montana! LOL

"Then there's the really cool spark plugs that can sense combustion chamber vibrations, electrical resistance, and cylinder pressures and dump that to a Motec EMS." There are similars for the stationary engine realm that give realtime BMEP data to the operators to prevent overloading of generator sets when...er...'making up production during peak consumption periods'.... Neat to watch the curve develop on an O-Scope.

Techline Coatings in Temecula. That is the place that makes the graphite/teflon epoxy suspension for the recoating of oil free screws. Maybe they have something equivalent?

The BMW stuff is what I am referring to, IT IS NOT RTV! This is the same stuff Nissan uses on it's own throttle plates. Trust me, unless you get a throttle plate THAT STICKS SHUT you will not be able to make it seal at an angle that won't stick off-idle. The grey 'paint' lets the throttle plate seat at an angle slightly less than metal-to-metal fit---which will prevent sticking. Anybody ever get a TWM big-throat that STICKS? I did. Brushing in a sealant kept it from that annoying habit. I got mine in a small applicator-in-cap bottle from the aforementioned NISMO Employee (now former NISMO Employee...) It done dried out and it was 'generic'---he had a bigger source in the shop, but he just brought me the small bottle. It has to be the BMW stuff...if one person can get it, anybody can get it. That is the stuff I'm talking about. The sealer makes your life WAAAAAY easier. Metal to metal will gall. Metal to metal will wear. You need something to 'soft seat' onto, and make a nice seal. Paint does that. I'm thinking it's an epoxy matrix with graphite in it. Kind of like the coatings they spray on oil-free screw air compressor screw elements....hmmmm... that gives me another possible source. I gotta call Mike in Buffalo now...

Cow magnets are free if you have friends that work at the gut bucket at the slaughterhouse...

FYI, a couple of years ago, those IRL engines were being sold off considerably cheaper than the quoted price. McMeekin Bros back east were not privy to the Nissan IRL clearinghouse, so bought an Aroura IRL engine for a similar price. They put it in a 240SX. They move at over 200mph at Bonneville if I'm not mistaken... The CORR Racing Trucks were running the 5.6 at 8200+ rpms and making a gob more power than the stated goals above (other than rpm range). Basically forged pistons and isky bumpsticks. They used the factory sump that whole first season. Some nice OEM engineering there!

Oh, apparently the later or Euro Stalks are different than the JDM stuff. Mine doesn't say 'Pass' on it. That's neat. Now I must posess one of those as well...my precious...must have my precious....

You're hard-core Priddy. I bet you smoke filterless camels as well...

There is a reason they call me 'sharkie' and my yahoo addy is 'sharkie73z'... I was once told to take them off, but I find fast lane compliance goes up immeasurably when people see that coming at them in their rearviewmirror with the green, glowing city lights on in the headlights... I mean, "For gawd's sake Emily, what kind of lunatic puts teeth on the front of their car?!?!?!? I'm pullin' over!!!"

Far as I know, all you need do is ground that third prong in the connector and you're golden. Pretty easy check. I know it worked on my 71, so... The later FairladyZ's had the 'correct' style stalk and retrofitting it is a roll pin away. Now finding one of those assemblies.... You may want to simply find another similarly configured stalk off another model car, and retrofit that instead. I still shake my head when I think I gave away four 76-77 Fairlady Z combination switch assemblies to other guys who had failures on cars they shipped from Japan (and Stealth Z knows where one of them went---not to him, but someone he knows!) If only I had been more selfish. That's it...more selfish!!! LOL

This is what the headlight covers look like: Kind of a long shot, but here's an old ratty G-Nosed car: Yeah, they were in the yard, so I put em on car domain...what can I say? My bud is moving from Buffalo to be out here in SoCal. Something about coming back to miserable weather after attending a big all-japanese car event and realizing "he's found his people" at least that is what he kept muttering...

Yeah, my Moby Van (the White G30 Chebby) was 8600#, and damned if I had to take it to different smog shops that dealt with 'Heavy Duty Trucks'. The smog rules as JC said apply to 'passenger vehicles and light duty trucks.' What did Chebby LUV stand for? Long before there were SUV's, there was the LUV: Light Utility Vehicle! (NO LIE!)