Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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A water pump IS a turbo! It has the same sort of mapping. The premise of reducing line losses is a red herring IMO. The engine needs turbulent flow to get a good heat exchange, and the 'improvements' in reduced parasitic drag by streamlining hose connectors and the like will be purely theoretical. An Engineering Problem to eat up time, and see a theoretical savings. But in the real world the effective available horsepower will be nil.
IMO, the more efficient method would be to run an appropriately sized electric pump which can idle down during low-load periods and which has a battery to smooth out impact-loading of high load times so you are not drawing maximum amps during periods coinciding with maximum heat production.
Decreasing your pressure drop across the engine by increasing the flow will result in decreased thermal transfer time (residence time) as well as possibly lowering the operating pressure---which will have detrimental effects in the formation of steam pockets and impingement-induced cavitation damage on castings, impellers, etc...
It's a much more complex system than simply streamlinging this or decreasing that. Change one thing, and you change a LOT of other things. There was a posting recently about 'cavitation' which had a 1950's era engineering filmstrip linked within it---it is a very good 32 minutes to spend watching. You learn a lot about increasing flowrates and decreasing pressures and what happens within a fluid when you do those things.
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I spent $1000 for one in rougher appearance...to the untrained eye.
But when you realize it was a 71 Fairlady that was imported to the US in 76 from mid-Japan, and that it spent it's entire life from 76-91 in the Phoenix AZ area.... Rust does not come into the photo.
Sure, it's rough looking. But rought looking and solid is way better than rough looking and rusty!
At least that's how I rationalize spending that much on it.
My other 3 Fairladies I got were nowhere near that price. Matter of fact, one was outright given to me! So that knocks down the 71's cost, right?
And generally, contrary to opinions otherwise, I have found Fairlady Z's generally sell for a premium above what a comparably conditioned LHD model would sell. If you have a $700 75 280Z, chances are a Fairlady Z in similar condition will sell for more, anywhere from a couple of hundred, to up to $1000 more. I rarely have seen Fairlady Z's command more than $1000 more than the comparably conditioned LHD Model of similar vintage. To most people they ARE worth more. I have bought them from people for money when I would never even consider an LHD model in similar condition. Some stuff is worth having around, just in case you need it.
What's an uncracked 73 Fairlady Z Dashboard worth? Muahahahaha!
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Lokar makes a throttle cable piece that will snap on the ball throttle end, and if you source any Nissan cable, you c an screw that baby on the end of either the Lokar cable, or the Nissan cable and snap it right on there.
Easier than modding the pedal like I did years ago.
Some said that Pep-Boys has cables that will work, but I haven't seen them there in stock, at least.
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Most of the serious horsepower turbo L engines run auxillary coolant lines out the top of the cylinder head on the spark plug side.
And electric pump could save drag by only running at the speed required for cooling, speed variable by temperature.
And of course, reverse flowing the system could pay benefits, but isn't as easy as on a SBC.
The Nissan LD28 water pump is of higher capacity as well. Check the thread on that. Little known tidbit that I picked up hanging around JGK and TimZ...
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JeffP is loosing 30cfm per cylinder with the stock manifold he is using. It was extrude honed and flows significantly better than the stock one before being honed....
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Gasoline
Rag
Rum Bottle freshly emptied
Match...
"I was Drunk"---maybe it'll fly. Like the gasoline in the rum bottle with the lit rag sticking out of it...onto the roof of the 'repair' facility.
If nothing else, it gives you a falling-down good drunk...
I've cancelled cards, and when you use that word, there are all sorts of people who come on the line to try and change your mind. My favorite line: "Oh wait, you want to now waive the $29 fee on an unpaid .32 cent unpaid balance because you now realize you gave me the improper payoff ammount last month? But when I told you earlier you never sent me the bill (ur...because the balance was less than the cost of their bulk mailing costs for the bill no doubt) that was NOT a reason to waive the fees? That's fine, you will get your $29.32 and will NEVER have my rotating balance ever again. MBNA has a 9% card, and I'll just start using it instead of your lamea$$ card. This is being recorded correct? I just want to make sure you are saying if I pay you $29.32 I can cut up my cards and never deal with you again."
And you don't even want to know what I told BofA about my mortgage payments and their inability to post them in a timely fashion...
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In Vegas, at least you can count the cards. It makes the odds of a big payoff at least statistically viable. You can make money actively trading, but going to Vegas with $400 and playing Blackjack has as much upside potential in hours as opposed to days. And you at least get a vacation out of it.
Not a player, more of a long term buyer, compound interest, DRIP kind of guy...
If I was to 'buy' anything right now, it would be "F" when it hits anything near $6 even, and ride (short term for me) the next three years to see where it goes.
As for creative ways of financing, how does your wife/girlfriend/lifepartner feel about you possibly doing some manwhore work?
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Oh, these are little bumps and bruises. Wait till you start buying impounded Z's from police auctions and see what happens when they reach the absolute bottom of the food chain.
All I will say is: "At least a weld bead was not involved."
Or speaker wire. Speaker wire is a universal headlight/fuelpump/battery ground cable replacement for impounded Datsuns...
Good to see your strut is handled.
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Back in the 80's when I was in Japan a set of headlight covers was 30,000 yen (G-Nose) and the standard nosed S30 covers were 23,000 yen.
At that time, the yen exchange rate was 268 to a dollar, so doing quick math you can see that retail pricing in Japan was $111.94 for the G-Nose Covers (PER PAIR) and $85.82 for the standard S30 Covers. Which would jibe nicely with SRGuns commented price, given that in the 70's the yen was over 300 to the dollar. That makes for the US MBA Standard 100% markup. I have no idea who was paying $500 for them 'back in the day' but unless there was a PILE of other parts involved they were getitng ripped off. Datsun Competition Parts Catalog in 1976 didn't list them for anywhere NEAR that price! I could buy a complete G-Nose for under $1500 when they were selling here in the States for close to $3200. When the yen rate dropped precipitously around 1986 or '87 from 268 to 130, and eventually 105, the dollar price for them doubled, but the yen price remained constant. This is why I was involved in aluminum recycling back then, kept my dollars free for dollar wants, and my yen for things JDM remained unquashable with a steady stream of old stern looking men on 1000 yen notes coming to me from scrap ecycling every saturday afternoon!
Now, unless you have connections in Japan, you are SOL getting them through a Nissan Dealer. As someone with 3 Fairlady Z's having a couple of sets for proper period correct accessories would be nice.
I haven't scammed a trip to Japan via work yet, but if I ever do my Visa Card will take SUCH a beating!!! LOL
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How old is the older dog? It may be time for the permanent nap. As dogs age, they can become unpredictable. Our shepard mix was very docile until about 13 years old. The last 6 months of her life she started exhibiting very agressive behaviour towards the other dogs we have. Boxers are very intelligent and will take to training well. Myfriend in NJ has had nothing but purebred boxers for almost 25 years now (on his third), and they are very sociable with other dogs as well as other animals in the house of given the proper opportunity and reinforcement on initial introductions/interactions.
There comes a time when they (olderr dogs) can slip what would normally be considered 'pack dominance' issues. The cuts on the boxer look pretty severe for a 'dominance' style of fight. If you have more than two dogs, they may be ganging up on the 'newcomer' and WILL kill it if led by an older dog that is starting to 'slip'.
Watch the older dog, especially around children. I would segregate the older dog until you can positively determine the source of it's behaviour.
It may simply be time to put it down. Dogs are not humans, and bad behaviour is dealt with simply: euthanasia. The bastardization of several breeds by poor breeding practices (pit bulls, rotts, etc) and refusal to cull unacceptable behaviours when displayed is a big problem leading to evermore restrictive ordinances.
Most important, protect your kids until you can determine what the older dog is doing, and why.
I would tend to keep the docile younger dog (especially around kids) and put the older, more aggressive dog out to adoption, or put it down.
Dogs are usually very cool about having other dogs around to play with...
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Wow. CFD is scary cool. What's even scarier is that old HKS Type 1 with the baffling that looks eerily like it would counteract the vorticies.
I'm not sure where I'm working next week, but now I'm really curious as to how those HKS Plenums would test out...and how HKS came up with the designs they did when they put them into production!
I'm going to go back and watch those videos again....
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Kameari makes an 85mm crank, from what I understand, wouldn't that solve the deck height problem as well?
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It's not TONY's theory, it's Electramotive's Testing that came up with that number. Stock rods were failing before the end of testing, so they went aftermarket to be able to run to the end of some endurance events.
NHRA rods last one run, then they are replaced. Everything has a limit. Be careful of giving an endurance O.K. when you aren't putting the things on a Dyno and holding peak torque or horsepower for 25 hours.....
It's like saying a stock L28ET is good for 500HP. It is! For how long is anybody's guess. I know at 350HP a simple N/A N42 Engine is still good at 75K miles. Most stock engines will run in developmental testing on an engine dyno at either peak torque or peak horsepower for 200 hours and then be wear-checked. For the street that is considered 'acceptable' testing. For an industrial engine in stationary service it's not even close! Street setups are notoriously deceptive on what they really tell you about longevity, people rarely have them long term to do actual measurements.
As for rpms, stock rods go higher in RPM's than most people will think they do...
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After seeing what Willie Essing did at his diesel tuning shop in Holland I'd put a TDI 1.9 in something. Fueling alone does quite a bit, and when you start adding boost....look out! WOO HOO! 375 ft-lbs of torque and 40+ MPG to boot.
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While the heads bolt on, the valves clearing the bores is a big issue.
Unless by tax class or racing class you are restricted to 2.0L, I would not waste time on building the engine. "To be different" isn't enough justification for me with the costs involved. We run an L20A in the Bonneville car because we have to by engine displacement class.
I think the MPG is a moot point. The L28ET should easily get as good if not better MPG due to far better torque and being able to run with a lower rpm, amongst other things. Just because an engine is smaller doesn't mean it automatically will return better MPG. In many cases (especially with domestic trucks in the USA) the larger engine will give superior fuel economy due to better torque production moving the same weight. GM's 3.8L GENIII will run in the mid 30's highway with a full bodied LeSabre Body hung on it full of passengers.... That is nothing short of amazing considering the load an L28 has to push around!
There is much more than simply smaller displacement to fuel economy.
Heck, I've made 28MPG with Triple Mikuinis on an L24 running a 4.11 rear end, on a car with a three-speed _automatic_!
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To Bryan's list I will add on the N42 that at the same mid77 breakpoint that got the US the N47, most of the rest of the world got the N42 with the hardened seats. I know because I have one, and have seen several more, usually on JDM replacement engines. They ran an N42 all the way up to when the Fairlady 280Z got supplanted by the Z31. Same for Cedrics, Glorias, Leopards, etc. Japan Market Stuff all had N42's way later than we did, and they have the good later style hardened seats. They're out there! And in pretty good numbers as well, especially in the SoCal region where the JDM importers did lots of business.
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KD Tools makes one for around $35 last I checked that is very similar to what Xander shows, and works fine on or off the car. As with anything on the head 'off the car' levering on it will make it want to move around. Sticking two dowels in your benchtop that correspond to your head bolt holes will remedy that handily....
It hooks over the cam, and you depress it over the spring retainer so you can remove the retainers. Pretty easy. The KD has several adjustable hand lever positions so you aren't right on top of the manifold when you are depressing the spring. I usually take the head off intake and all, so it's a feature that is critical for me, and for anyone working on the car in-frame.
Apparently they are $46 nowadays from The Tool Source.
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Roughly calculated, on a 40 ft pound torque requirement, a 1/2 inch crow's foot extension would increase the actual torque by only 1 foot/pound. Well within the 36 - 43 ft/pd suggested setting for the pivot nut.
But that's also 2.5% error.
With a cheap wrench that has 6% error your adding a crowsfoot just turned that wrench to something with almost 9% error (and depending on which way it's calibrated closer...) With that error in there, you are at 43.6 ft-lbs exceeding the upper level of the torque specification. In that case you should torque to 39 ft-lbs to negate the crowsfoot error. Then you are only left with wrench error which most forget about as well!
On a smaller fastener it's not really a big deal. But on something like what was being mentioned with a 250 ft-lb torque spec, a 9% error can mean snapping a fastener or over stretching one that is already designed to be 75% of yield at working loads.
My example of the crowsfoot was that it in the most BENIGN set of circumstances introduces an almost 3% error!
It's something many people never realize. Imagine using a larger crowsfoot with a longer fulcrum! Or any number of circumstances that can introduce error into the equation.
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The PMEL Schedule on all torque wrenches I used in the USAF was 90 Days or if dropped. You drop it, pack it up and drive it off to PMEL for recalibration.
I actually have a Click-Type BEAM torque wrench! It's got an adjustable pointer under the main pointer that allows you to point it to the final torque, and when it deflects that amount the secondary needle trips a device that makes the handle 'click'. Never seen another like it before or since. I picked it up at a garage sale of a Tool and Die man in Pontiac back in the 80's.
To go back to multipliers and VW Axle Nuts (And Flywheel Gland Nuts) they actually make low-cost torque multipliers for those applications as well. Basically a torque arm that has a gear that meshes with the flywheel teeth and allows you to put 1/4 the required torque on the drive to completely and fully torque the flywheel gland nut. For the axle nuts they have a punched out gear setup that you bolt to two of the lug bolt holes, and works similarly...
Pretty Cool, Eh? Cheap as well. It only took 80 years after the application was put into production...
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He was looking to flip it, and nobody seemed to care. I could not bring myself to ask him how much it cost at the Swap Meet.
He was looking to make coin on the deal, and you know the deal on the Z-Car Community. They're not big on buying memoriabelia at four digit prices, regardless of the 'Cool Factor'...
Myself included at that point. Those photos were taken sometime between 1999 and 2003, so who knows what happened to it. He had my home phone number, and all I can remember was he said his name was "Richard" and he spoke with something like a light German Accent.
Oh, yeah, I have seen these photos linked all over, and nobody gives credit for the source of the Photos. Call me "Alan" on that one, I figured the least someone could do is say "Tony Took Em"... They were stolen off this site from a post I responded to regarding DOHC Heads. Drax was nice enough to host them for me at the time so I could get 'em out and people could see it. I took em because trying to tell someone about that head and it's mere existence is almost insurmountable when people don't believe you in the first place! I ended up pulling down the photos at several places due to idiots.
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Yeah, that which was available in the beginning is now becoming available to the masses.
(Group 4 FIA Homogolated S30's were running true CV's almost from the start!)
We are considering it for the Bonneville car simply for the transmission efficiency. On a car going max out, 2-3% would be considerable for the investment.
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The mystery head is the 'Paeco-Goerz' head bought in SanDiego at a swap meet complete with tooling for machining and full size hand drawn blueprints. Those photos were taken in the back of the new owner's truck at a Group Z meeting by ME!
Intake and Exhaust ports are symmetrical, so the option for either side being either function is open. Note the plug holes are not complete.
Somewhere I have the photos of the combustion chambers which are hemispherical in conformation.
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The stock air cleaner (if you have it, or can fit it in a LHD car) works pretty well, and K&N does have a filter to use with it.
Also, using a stock 240/260Z replacement K&N filter sandwiched between a couple of aluminum plates makes for a NICE SSS SU Aircleaner Setup. (Think like the early roadster air cleaners. A beadroller and sheetmetal can look damn stock sometimes!)
I'm helping my son put the very same setup on his 70 510 Wagon, and this is the same spot we are at...which aircleaner do we want to run?
I don't like the small units either, and having to remove the entire intake to access the aircleaner element is a royal PITA.
If I wasn't so hardheaded on making the boy live with points and carburettors for a couple of years before moving into EFI this would be SOOOOO much easier!
pistion/deck height misinformation
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Muahahahaaha! L20B rods in L28 Block? Muahahahaha!