Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Yeah, Mazda Bongo Van.
Nissan competes in the same size segment with the "Homer"
I had a Toyota HiAce with a Dual Carbbed 4K under the seat. Used it for storage, mostly! LOL
"I digress" as well as 'Bump' to keep it on top.
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"If you actually unwrap your harnesses there are dozens of splices and wires that are not on the diagrams."
Oh gawd yes! It's downright scary!
I have made this suggestion in frustration at other places as well. It's not that hard. Or you would think.
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Japanese have used multiple pumps for years. Each pump should have it's own discrete in-body check valve, and unless you are spending real $$$ adding an external check valve may cause more problems than it solves, especially as it relates to fuel flow.
MSD Boost-A-Pump...hmmmm
I think someone mentioned dual pumps, 1100CC/min injectors, and some stainless steel repiping of the fuel system on the phone some hours ago...muahahaha! "Every time I call you it costs me $2000!" No problem, just go to the money tree and pick some more! LOL
Jeff has the power he wants (Anybody else recall 'all I want is 600 flywheel horsepower and I'll be happy'?), he's just getting greedy now!
Bwahaha!
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209/150 is a good set of numbers, you will like the way that thing takes off! Dave knows his stuff. Reasonably priced as well!
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Not "OMG" by a long shot. Other than the claims being made. I know street-driven SoCal cars better than that thing. More like "MEH!" than "OMG!"
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Sell it to the Japanese, and make sure to include the flow data...they go bonkers for diagrams like that! LOL
"SSS" at one time was the home of the Devil-Z in Wangan Midnight, Speed Shop Sinohara...I guess now the new MonZter-Z will come from "SSS" as well!
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1974 Datsun 260Z 2+2 with four speed has R200 3.36 Ratio from Factory. It's not in the factory shop manual, you need the parts fiche or the factory 'Green Book' to find out that little ditty. I've yarded two of them and passed them on, and know that is one of the easiest places to find one.
Now, just find a 260Z 2+2 in the USA....
I know of one more that is 'easy pickins' but after that...
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I think there should be a 3 strike rule/meter, you could put it under the post-o-meter so everyone would know where they are at.
There are those who drive rental cars locked in low gear right at redline, simply because they can...er not mentioning/implying/admitting/instigating/pointing at/nudging/ or otherwise saying anybody in particular...
But I know having a cool 'Redline Indicator' on your posts might incline some to see just how far they can go...
It would be cool, to be sure...but I can see someone making a bad decision on the premise that they aren't even 'in the yellow yet'...
Then a time out would be the equivalent of starting your Impala with 41K miles on the odo after school and dropping #6 exhaust valve through the piston. All those other times you got away with bouncing the speedo needle off the right hand turnsignal indicator, and then THIS happens...you wonder 'where's the justice' and 'dad will NEVER believe I just STARTED the damn thing!'
Again, not mentioning/implying/admitting/instigating/pointing at/nudging/ or otherwise saying anybody in particular...
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What was the mantra during the Apollo Project?
"Work the problem."
It's a heluva lot more productive when you do it that way, eh?
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The machine work alone will run you close to a grand, if you are very lucky. Probably closer to 2K$.
Derek is right, patterns like these are godawful to get right, even on a smaller scale. Let's look at what I figure I'd have to do to mold the "Paeco-Goerz" DOHC head:
Patternwork: working from finished, error-free prints, 150 hours.
Did Kevin contact you about making another Paeco-Goertz head? They did have fully dimensioned drawings of that head, along with the machining jigs for finishing the head. It was bought lock-stock-and barrel at a swap meet. Nice hand-drawn full size prints with fractional dimensions (no decimals!)
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my experience is that the very earliest factory items were steel channel section, made from two pieces butt-welded together then chromed. After a couple of years they started making them from stainless steel ( still two pieces butt-welded together ) which was then polished to a high shine. The replicas I have seen are chromed, not stainless.
My Early Fairlady Z-S (S30-00745) had OEM "Chromed Steel" surrounds as Alan says. My 75-S had the Stainless Steel, same as my 76 Z-L and the 77 Z-L 2/2. Okinawa was not kind to the early model variant, same as to early bumpers. Nissan seemed to have a knack for somehow heavily chroming only one side of a piece, leaving the backside suceptible to corrosion!
I was unaware of any good reproductions, learn something new every day. I just assumed they were like the items on my early car.
(Alas, that car 'went to earth' back in 86... Terminal Rust that only living on a small tropical island can give you...when it's 'salty rain' you know it's bad for cars!)
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Wow, December 74 production 280Z IS early! I have a December 74 260Z 2+2, but the Air Cleaner Mount, AFM Mount, etc are all missing.
Neat thing is I got the 3.36 R200...muahahahaha!
"I digress"
Y'know, it could be one of those 'VIN SWAPPIES' that you should steer clear of... I would be very interested to know what the door plate says, as well as engine bay and firewall VIN says.
The 240 Dash WILL bolt-in to a later car...and if they just swapped the dash to make a 'good VIN' car they could sell, whomever buys it may get a nasty suprise when they open the doorjamb and see 'HLS30-367XXX' and that matches the hard VIN in the firewall, and the engine dataplate...
Curious, no shots of the door jamb ID plate, engine ID plate, or Firewall VIN....
Hmmmmmm. I'd be steering clear regardless of the price until those issues were identified positively!
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"More Clear-Headed, Ego-Berift Heads are better than one!"
LOL
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OH THAT'S SNEAKY!
What VIN number sequence did the 280Z begin at, it ALSO is an 'HLS30'!!!
It could be a very-early production 280Z...Seeing the carbon-cannister mount, Air Filter mount, AFM Mount and A/C lines in that last engine bay photo....it's not a 260 for sure.
VIN could correspond to an early 280Z as well as a late 240Z...given the engine bay evidence advantage 280Z...
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non-tech? whaaaa...
I'm SHOCKED!
Yeah, if you can source any "Carboy" Magazine from 1985 through at least 1990 every October (If I recall correctly) there was the annual "L-Engine Shootout". I know my 1989 Issue didn't even list N/A cars that weren't running at least in the 12's. The Turbos were in Single Digits 0-400m...
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That guy has outbid me on several tasty bits in the past...
I wonder where he's sourcing the replicas. Or if they are real Nissan Pieces... I have seen people call the stainless trims 'chrome' more than once.
For under $200, they are a decent deal for someone that wants OEM look covers. The brackets are easy enough to make...
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That VIN would make it a 240.
260's are definately RLS-30 vehicles. And they did start with RLS30-000XX because I know who owns 260Z #90...
There have been people that tried swapping 280/260 climate HVAC systems into earlier cars...
And believe it or not, I have a FariladyZ S30-06225 that someone hacked in a set of 260 / 280 tail lights...
I know HLS30-156466 is a 73 240, I own that one as well.
Strange Beast. Strange Seller. E-Bay Standard.
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Why is the companion flange empty?
Shouldn't the splined/threaded portion of the stubaxle still be inside there, or did you deflange it/remove it/ partially reassemble for photos?
I don't see the threaded end on the stubaxle where your nut goes, so I'm assuming that is the scenario.
Kameari makes nice pieces to replace these as well.....$$$
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Yeah, I remember seeing the pressure buildup in the adapter plenum, I figure those are the 'easy' holes to machine...LOL
Thanks!
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Oh, I see I have garnered an "official site moniker"!
Better than what it could have been, I suppose...LOL
Wonder when that changed. Man, I'm oblivious to stuff sometimes.
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Yes, where they are placed determines their function. It is not necessarily resonator/muffler, or muffler/resonator. There may be multiple resonators to take out different harmonics or accoustic signatures.
Generally Mufflers have chambers which the gasses pass though in some fashion, and 'trap' accoustic signatures through change of direction. Resonators usually are simply straight through chambers that add volume at a given place. They may have baffles, there may be glass wool packing, or it may be simply a 'bulge' in the piping to add volume to the exhaust system. If there are chambers and change of direction involved within the unit, chances are very good it is NOT a resonator, it's a muffler---and anything else in the system is either a catalyst or resonator!
A muffler will work almost anywhere in the system, but a resonator requires very careful and specific placement to do what it does. Because they accomplish the noise reduction in different ways, it becomes critical that the resonator be placed at the proper location for maximum effect. Put a glasspack at the headpipe, and listen. Then put it at the end of the exhaust system... Totally different accoustic signatures. Because it's more suited for 'resonator' duty, it's placement within the system will change how it sounds. Then try it with a Flowmaster...sounds the same...may not be flowing the same, but that is the biggest difference between muffler and resonator.
More correctly than saying they serve similar purposes, but do it in different ways would be to say that a muffler is a 'general purpose' noise reduction device---it works on a broad spectrum of signatures. While the Resonator is a very specific tool that is designed and placed to remove specific noises (the boom at 2500 rpm that happens on 2.5" exhausts, it's a midrange drone that gets resonant and amplifies itself 3X near the low end of the torque plateau, for example).
A neat trick is to listen and see when your exhaust gets the quietest when on the road. It tells you a lot about the design of the system. My buddy had a Trust System on his Box Skyline, and as we were driving down the expressway one day at 140kph, we came to the sudden realization that the exhaust note was TOTALLY absent. Slowed down to 135 and like someone hit the stereo loudness switch bwaaaAAAAA. Speed back up to 140, and as you neared 138 it started getting quiet, and by 140 the exhaust was totally silent. From that point it was like 'starting over' as the exhaust started getting louder again at 145 and up... We noticed this was different depending on load in the vehicle as well. When 4 people were in it, silence occurred at 140 kph. With only 2 people it was closer to 120 kph... Obviously engine load has a bearing on the noise signature.
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Jeff, if the HKS Type 2 was to have a series of holes bored in the wall separating the upper plenum from the lower plenum, what kind of flow icrease/improvement would there be?
Reason I'm asking is the Type 2 will be going on those HKS ITB's, and I really have no need for the restriction in the upper plenum...but would like a better flowing 'period correct' looking piece when I install it on my 73.
I'm thinking I can access the wall with a drill bit through the carb openings, and then enlarge the holes by hand with a right angle die grinder.
Yes, I could use the Type 1 in the application, but the Type 2 is what HKS was hawking for the ITB's when they came out.
Thanks!
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put in a 5 speed you won't need the oil cooler. clean that engine bay right up
And why would that be? Euro Turbo Cars ALL had an oil cooler, auto AND 5 speed. They also had Differential Coolers.
Chances are good if you are doing freeway driving for long distances, or exuberant driving, the oil cooler is a good thing to have...
The reason for the oil cooler is the freeway operation RPM with the Automatic. It's much higher than with the 5 speed (here in the USA at least), and that added rpms means more heat to dissipate through the oil system. If you drive fast, that oil cooler is something you want. I install them on my cars with a Thermostat (OilStat)...
If your oil temperature is much about 240 degrees F, you should consider retrofitting an oil cooler to any L-Engine you may have...
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The G-nose needs a spoiler lip that protrudes ahead of the bumper-line. This would keep the air out from under it and probably work to great effect.
"IMSA G-Nose Spoiler" Does exactly that. And the damned FRP hood STILL bulges up at speed from underhood pressure!
Next step in turbo technology?
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
VNT on a two-compressor, single turbine shaft turbo. (Dual Compressor wheels for more flow)
Or VNT on a two-compressor, two turbine integral turbo. (Series Supercharging, one turbo feeds the other for higher pressures and flows than can be accomplished by one compressor alone!)
They are out there....I've seen 'em! Can't say where due to some papers I signed, but it's not hard to figure out...