Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I can attest that an R180 differential under endurance racing conditions can get hot enough to melt the plastic vent off the top and still run for miles and miles and miles (Average 85mph for 16+ hours, with only a 20 minute driver/fuel/fluid stop every 2.5 hours). But if you didn't ever check (like during a service stop) you would never know. It's not going to seize up during a race, but knowing what it is doing during the race would be nice---and crewmembers checking it during a fueling stop and reporting to engineering would help. It would also alert them to the possibility that something has come up and gotten meshed in the diffy cooler, and that possibly they should send a man under to run their gloved hand over it and dislodge anything up under there causing a blockage...
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Ahhh, the tools on Youtube are calling it a 280 and then correcting themselves that it's a 240 "Yo"....
Argh!
I saw the SSS car in Mainland Japan while stationed there. SSS was a big deal in the late 80's and early 90's. They must have faded out. Sad really. They made several vehicles like that one, basically as film 'chase cars'. There was a 'Making of' style video out at the same time that showed how they filmed it. If you watch closely, you can see the big blue flame out the tailpipe as he lifts and shifts early on in the trailer. In the Making of Video you can actually see the blue flame work it's way up the pipe in the dark. It's reeeeallly cool.
This is what was going on in Japan every night....20 years before "The Fast and the Furious" made it's debut here! Just keep that in mind when someone says they are the 'first' to do anything on an early Z....
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In 1981, when I was working in a small local machine shop in Michigan, boring was $20 a hole including finish honing. So yea, $130 for an L is an astounding price today considering inflation! Velios Machine in LA is $50 a bore hole...then again that's a hot bore with girdles and plates. Probably overkill on a street engine...
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Yes, with cooler (read sober) heads prevailing, BRAAP is correct, the pattern is different than what was in ours. It does look like a broken ring land. Looking at it again, it looks too far 'to one side' to be the piston pin anyway.
BRAAP is right, the 'double score' is what we had. Not a polishing like you have. But then again....going on my second Big Gulp of Captian Morgan & Diet Coke may have had some bearing on my exuberance that evening... Come to think of it, I still have some DC in the Big Gulp out in the truck, I better go get it before the ice waters it down too much and get a-mixing.
JeffP sunk the rings and lands on Five of Six cylinders at 8.39 psi of boost. Boost really is irrelevant, you run lean and detonate, things will break, some sooner than later.
As for what caused the interference to walk.... I'm thinking something like 60+ miles running at 8500rpm+ in 1.5 and 5 mile bursts... It was up to 8400 by the end of the first mile at Bonneville, and then gained 500 rpm each mile subsequently... That might have had something to do with the small ends 'moving around a bit' and loosing grip on the pins and letting them walk to the walls.
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No, never been to Finland, but grew up in the U.P. of Michigan listening to Karl Pellenpaa every Sunday Morning on "Finland Calling", a local show out of Marquette done entirely in Finnish for all those from the old country that emigrated to work locally in the mines. Lots of "Maki's" Keskamaki, Millimaki, Marjomaki...hell just plain old Maki as well. We had Eino and Toivo, and all sorts of 'old country' names. You don't expect American kids to have names like Toivo, or Orlo Olaf..... LOL
The U.P., from what I could tell, was very similar to Finland in the Birch Trees, and of course, EVERYBODY had a sauna at 'The Camp'. I grew up on the 'bottom seat', while all the 'old men with no hair' sat on the top seats in the Sauna, whipping each other with freshly-cut evergreen switches. Ahhhh, whip it up and get that pine oil into your pores, then open the door and dash out into -40 weather and roll around in the snow to 'seal the smell in'... Man, now you got me all misty-eyed about my youth! LOL "I digress"
Sorry for veering off topic. Back to the regularly scheduled programming...
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Oh, I missed that you already had a Computer Controlled car!
"D'OH!"
The internal regulator for 5VDV Vref in the ECU should be plenty for one more sensor. If you have a TPS, like Tim suggested just grabbing +5V from the existing source for the stock ECU should work fine as long as you have the same ground plane for both units. That may not even be that critical, as it's going to read it's own sensor feedback to it's own respective ground plane...
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Don't apologize for your English! Especially with a nice brace like that to your credit. I only wish my Finnish was as good as your English...
All I can remember is Soumi, Sauna, Sisu, and of course "Eeeey, Buska Paa!"... (spelling in Finnish is not a strongpoint of mine! LOL)
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i was running 15ish on this motor and the pistons are fine
By no means am I trying to rub salt in the wounds, but I would be remiss not to point out the obvious and say: 'your photos would indicate otherwise'
The choice of full floater and pressed in is (IMO) a matter of how often you plan of pulling down the engine for refreshing. People were shocked we did not use Full Floaters in our Bonneville Engine...but why? We ran four seasons on the engine before something made the piston pins work out and kiss the walls. Obviously we didn't pull it down after every meet (hell, or every season for that matter!) and missed something that should have indicated pin movement.
But unless you are pulling the thing down all the time, what advantage do you have on full floaters? And with small teflon buttons on stock pins if something DOES happen, at least you can save your cylinder bore till you DO get it apart.
The L20A does have teflon pin buttons on Pressed-In pins. 9500 rpms. Stock Rods. Chances are good (again IMO) that we wasted money on the pin buttons on this engine. I don't see pins scoring the walls. I see catastrophic failure and spectacular engine damage from something snapping at that rpm level.
But the L28 was only 8500, and that's really an enduro setup by comparison. Some pin buttons and pressed in pins means you have to go see the machinist to change pistons.
Full floater, pull some circlips or spiralocks and you got a new slug on your rod. Nice for a quick refresh during the week in between races. As long as everything ie weight matched!
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WELCOME TO THE CLUB!
Our Bonneville engine did that with pressed-in pins, and our damage was 0.080" scores down all six bores. Makes you think a second time about teflon buttons in an OEM rebuild....
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Just to clarify, the MET degree everyone is speaking of is a four-year degree, and not an Associates Program, correct?
Differential Equations. Argh.
I digress...
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The fittings on the stock cooler are a 45 SAE fitting, they ARE NOT Jic 37 degree-AN (ask me how I know this!)
If you find the proper metric straight thread to AN/JIC adapter, then standard 'AN' fittings will work. I think the thread for the banjos are 1.5 pitch as I recall. It's posted somewhere.
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I would do the regulator thing. David Ulbrick drew up a quick schematic for me, I think it's at the Megasquirt sticky... Anyway, it's a solid state device with three leads, power in, out and ground if I recall correctly.
It's really bizzare, don't you think, that the Alky unit would not have a +5VDC source plug from it's control box for universal installation? I guess older cars without computer controls are getting to be the exception rather than the norm!
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The question to ask is if the electronic speedo is calibrated to the same input rpm as the 79 130 mph unit you have. They usually have the califration speed for 60mph written on the gauge face (some obscure number like 1048rpm). If you take a non-contact tachometer, a Variable Speed Drill, and spin up your head to the given speed, you can see if the speedometer head is reading what it should. I have all this stuff, so it's easy for me to do. That at least tells you if the speedo head is off, and by what percentage. If it's dead on, then a cog is the problem.
Also, if you can do a 'timed mileage' segment in your car. Measure out 5280 feet and mark it with paint, and then drive at an indicated 60 mph through that section of roadway with a stopwatch...you can also calculate the speedometer system error. Many states have highway sections set up to do just this. For every second over and under makes it easy to figure out real speed. 30 seconds to cover the mile? 120mph, and 100% speedo error.
When you do the 'timed mile' method, it becomes easy to just put in a different cog that 'gets you close' without going to a speedo shop and having is calibrated.
In my state (California) the AAA will run spedometer calibration clinics, and let you run your car on a machine to you know your error. You also get a certificate to show your car was checked. It becomes interesting when you have a certificate showing your speed error, and you can then use it to confirm your statement of your speed.
Short of those alternatives, you're off to the speedo shop to get recalibrated. I haven't checked the speed difference for your tires, but that is a big thing that affects the indicated speed of your vehicle.
You can always have someone 'pace you' and get an idea of the speed error. And be forewarned: IT MAY NOT BE LINEAR. I have had MANY cars that were spot-on at 30mph, but off by 5mph at 65, and off by well over 15mph at 120! It's a percentage error usually, but sometimes with the mechanical speedos the higher speeds just go whacky.
Good Luck!
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I'm just happy four other guys showed up at World Finals in Bonneville this year with a G-Nose! When G-Noses outnumbered non-G-Nosed Z's, the tide was turned and they decided it might not be good to disallow it...
It would have been a case of what once was legal in a class, now bumping it into another (Altered) class.
FYI, our first record was right up JMortensens alley: The El Mirage record broken was set in 1987 by the Dodge Factory Team in an effort that brought four 40 foot Semi Trailers and countless engineers to the Dry Lakebed. We built it all in our garages/sheds, and SPANKED 'EM! (And the guys in tech said it best: "We love it when someone who built the car in their garage beats a factory effort with all that backing!" That was 1999, and it's still standing (knock on wood).
Call us 'The Satisfied Cat' on that day! WOO HOO!
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Yeah, be sure which you have... the Fairlady Z was the L20A powered version, the Fairlady Z Turbo was L20ET powered, and the Fairlady 280 Z was the L28 powered "33 Plated" car in the JDM. Each will have different badging, for nothing other than to denote engine size. The Japan Market has always had a "Fairlady Z" and it has always been a 2Liter Tax-Class vehicle.
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Yeah...class rules, er...rule...
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I thought that the point of the S/C was to make up for the lag of the bigger turbo? That way you can have the S/C making low RPM boost while the turbo makes higher RPM boost where the S/C is inefficient.
The "Lag" ARGH! The higher boost threshold?
The supercharger is a full time consideration to allow for more efficient compression. If you mechanically compress at a 1.5 CR, then your turbo which normally would need to flow efficiently in the 3.2 C.R map will not be needed, and you can optimize a turbo for 1.5 CR (which has a much wider application band) and still have the same terminal power, with far more lower end torque.
What you are mixing up is a supercharger that acts as a supplementary device, meant to fill the powerband below boost threshold, and a turbo that is sized to provide power with a LOW boost threshold using a LOWER Compression Ratio.
This engine will not be running to 9000 rpms. It is limited in that respect. The Supercharger makes for an engine that in effect is a 4.2 L, and the turbo is supplementing that for midrange and top end polishing of the power curve. They are being designed to work concurrently not sequentially!
There is a BIG difference in the application.
While the larger compressor section may be needed to support the Supercharger's goals, the ultimate design will probably use a very large wastegate to bypass flow the turbine wheel to keep speeds under control, as you are using hte turbo with a boost threshold in the low 2000 rpm range! That's off-idle with the right cam, especially on a serious track car.
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An HX40 would be perfect. It would come on hard boost around 3800-4000+ RPMS on a 2.8L. It came on an 8.3 liter diesel...
On a 2.8L that is NORMALLY ASPIRATED!
On a 2.8L that has a 1.5 Compression Ratio Blower on the front, it's exhaust flow will be more like a 4.2 Liter...
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My 73 has a big flat spoiler like that on the front, as well as the whale tail on the rear. It's stable at speed. The radiator opening is in the standard spot, but you have to be careful of obstructions---the pictured license plate placement would affect my cooling. Hell, putting ifberglass teeth on the bottom of the rear bumper affected cooling, I had to Appalachianize it and remove every other tooth to restore cooling to proper levels. The opening is right at 2 sq ft, so a duct is critical to proper radiator function. If you duct it, and lay the radiaiator down ALA Z31, you can lower the front of the hood, and make is a bottom-breather, keeping that front end aero-clean.
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How about getting this one?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/581188443.html
It is actually located in Oregon. Might make a good road trip to pick it up. Registration in California would not be to difficult. It would have to conform to the good ole emissions standards for the 79~83 280ZX's.
Thanks for THAT Eric!
My wife hasn't spoken to me for the past week when she realized the 'windshield' I brought back from Hollister last Friday was connected to the rest of a 1971 510 Wagon....and a Tow Dolly!
Now there's a tasty-looking Fairlady Z, with 'spares' for the 75....
YOU BASTARD!
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Wether someone uses a period correct G-nose or some modern version couldn't matter a bit, just that it works is the important thing.
I would have to disagree! The aero testing showed the "MODERN G-NOSE" increased both lift and drag if memory serves. I know Alan, as well as I pointed out that the MODERN G-Noses were NOT 'identical' to the original parts! Indeed the very subtle differences between the modern knock-off and the OEM pieces were enough to cause some disparities in the testing. Noted later on the MSA Type 3, little things like not having a radiator tray that goes all the way to the radiator, and having an under apron that does not completely cover and streamline the air's entrance under the car (leaves the flat piece of the lower radiator core support showing) DO have a great effect. Without knowing the period peices, you would make the wrong assumption that the original G-Nose was really trash----based on testing done today with today's parts. As a outcropping of the testing, we know if you buy a G-Nose in the USA (as the test unit was) you need to do some work before it 'works'!
And I think this is part of the point Alan is making. If you don't know what the original parts worked like, or looked like, then you run the risk of running a part that while "cosmetically similar" will NOT be "functionally similar"...
Granted, we all want stuff that 'works' but a lot of people think if cosmetically its 'close enough'....where the testing has clearly shown this is not the case, especially with aero parts!
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That African Safari Car photo is interesting! Gas Strut and obviously the Steel Hatch! It's interesting, but I suppose for the rugged conditions of the EASR a metal hatch would be more suited than the FRP units used in many of the European Rallys. Nice photo.
As for period correct parts...I'm a guy who had to fight ignorance of sanctioning bodies due to obviously stock aero body parts being disallowed (or trying to be disallowed) simply because 'nobody else was using them'... Forgive me if my competition is ignorant, but don't penalize me for it!
On a curious note pertaining to that whole mess (the G-Nose), seems three other cars appeared at Bonneville this past year WITH the G-Nose on them, and one well-known gent who has been in the Land Speed Runs for over 25 years started building a Z (also with a G-Nose) and in one year, "The G-Noses" outnumbered the cars without G-Noses! I think that little fact played into their 'non-decision' at years end! LOL
Sorry to veer off-topic, but it's kinda related...
As for 'looking back', take a gander at MonZster's CFD of the mid 80's Style HKS Turbo Surge Boxes. Lot of information gained, and knowledge applicable to TODAY'S design was learned. Not so much what the HKS box did, but when he looked at a 1940's era P40 Oil Radiator, it meshed with what was being seen in the CFD on the HKS box, and a new design permutation was devised.
If you don't know history, you are doomed to expend a lot of effort and waste a lot of time to recreate a lot of failed mistakes...find what worked and use it, or at least study it to determine why it worked!
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Just about any commercial pipe and supply house will be cheaper than McMaster. In L.A. McJunkin/Republic Supply is a good source, as is Bell Pipe in Anaheim. McMaster is a nice catalog house and they got one of everything, but they also know they have a reputation of having it, and everyone uses them in a pinch, so MRO stuff gets a little pricey sometimes.
They (McMaster) also have smokes plexiglass in almost exactly the same thickness as the Stock Side, 1/4 and Rear Hatch Glass on a 240Z...just an example of McMaster Diversity...You can get the same stuff at S&W Plastics in Riverside for about the same discount you noted, OTM.
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Er, yeah... the damned bubbles. It also depends a great deal on who makes your plastic as well. "Slow and steady" is a good rule of thumb. I would set the 'oven' to 140 and get it there, stick the sheet in, put the cover on, and then raise the temperature from there to 325 in varying steps. My first attempt at just blasting six heat guns into a box with the thermostat set at 300 degrees had...er...'less than desirable effects'... ahh the impetuous rush of youth.
I learned that 140, 225, 250,275,300,325 and then getting all set makes for a nice 'droopy' sheet that you can pick and fling pretty nicely. If you have a cold breeze, or a cold garage, you may want to bring the heat up another 25 degrees to 350. Some of the stuff drapes nice right at 300, other stuff likes it hotter. There is a 'feel' you will get when you do a few. if it's complex forming, and not just dropping it over a relatively flat window buck, I'd err on the side of 'hot' to make sure it drapes and you can form it (like stated with cotton gloves) while it's still hot...it will harden right there before your eyes. Get it too hot, and your gloves stick into it, you scream as hot plastic sticks to your flesh as you realize the cheap gloves your buddy gave you were nylon and not cotton...
I digress, but I'd encourage anybody to try it. The cost is pretty low, and the stuff you can do is pretty amazing. I would say I will do it again when I get some time. Burnt fingers and all, the stuff you can make is pretty cool!
Looking for an accelerator cable....
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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The Autozone in MADERA has them in the 'chrome zoomie' section, along with the wire separators and valve cover vents, etc...
Same for the Autozone in MODESTO...
About equidistant in either direction, you should check it out for an alternate source. For another alternate check in any Pep Boys 'Wall of Bling' where they will have the same throttle cable setup, as well as several other 'kickdown cables' for V8 Hydramatic Transmissions. They have a nice 'throttle cable' possibility. And they are everywhere!