Tony D

Absolutely! I could get 15psi+ at 1500rpm flatfooted at the line, using a button to give full predetermined spark retard. Launch under full boost. Exhaust turbine will melt. You blow holes in the hot-side scroll because of pressure buildup in a melting-hot glowing red/white/yellow turbine housing. Not for the meek of heart. But if you have hook, and can take off out of the hole hard, it's not like launching any normal turbo car! Exhaust should make a difference past the headpipe---as long as you're stainless steel. On my .43A/R housing, I would get 17psi at 1700 rpm if I floored it in any gear. I would get 10psi off-idle! But that was not due to retard and fuel, that was just a small A/R...that thing was 'all in' at 5500rpm. No reason to rev past 6000. Acted more like a Supercharged car, than a Turbocharged car. When I had that car dynoed, the guy had it on a Clayton In-Ground unit and was cruising at 60mph in fourth gear. He put a load on the engine, and the boost went WHAM! Straight to 17psi and the clutch went "poof" instantaneously. Dyno operator said "Sorry about your clutch, I've never seen a turbo come on that hard before!" LOL

Try a Corvair---no boost in first or till above 3500 in second gear! You won't get full boost till third under WOT conditions... If you don't have a standalone that can anti-lag or give some spark retard different than the stock map, that is all you will get. With a standalone, you can easily get full boost off-idle with enough retard and fuel...basically turning the turbine section into a gas-turbine instead of waste-recovery turbine.

Actually, Pete, you are probably over pressure ratio on your supercharger when the throttle plate is closed, and the air is actually that hot! Industrial Oil-Free Screw Compressors run 260-350 degrees loaded on the first stage with 30psi interstage pressure, but when they unload, if the bypass screw around the throttle plate is not correctly adjusted the temperature SOARS instantly to well over 455F! Soon as that plate is cracked a bit, the pressure ratio across the element drops, and the temps come back down to the allowable range.

All emissions equipment must be in place and functional to pass the visual/functional testing. Until the 35 Collector's Visual Exemption comes into being... That only affects 73's now... A few more years for you car to be in that program. Then it only matters what comes out the tailpipe---the way it should have been in the first place.

Most cars will run fine and pass emissions on an 8X8 table. 12X12, and 16X16 is really only there for the emissions requirements of an OEM---it's a lot of 'extra load point programming' that really doesn't need to be there, IMO. So that's really a moot point. Wigert got the Vector to pass US OEM Emissions Requirements with an 8X8 TEC2 system...and that was a 650HP Twin Turbo V8! With what I've seen, the Z31 swap is as involved as the MS, and with all the extra stuff you need to have to program it, the MS is as plug-n-play if not more so than the Z31 conversion. There are mods and extra stuff required for both system to work, it's not like you simply plug in a Z31 ECU and start tuning.

Hell I haven't had time to do tuning, much less inquisitive testing like I want to do! >:^( There was a time, in the early 90's.... I had this job with LOTS of free time, PLENTY of pay, and that gave me unlimited access to all sorts of analytical instrumentation, complete with a private road to drive on all day Sunday---nice uphill run for load testing. That ended November 1st, 1993. For me, as well as 1499 of my compatriots at the same company all over the USA... Since then, travel jobs... Heavy Travel Jobs.... Though I still have some "neat tools" from the old job laying about. Mostly stuff I "upgraded" while there, and took the "old, outdated, obsolete for our purposes" stuff home! That hand held Omega Thermocouple Reader and assortment of probes is one of them. Actually, my wife probably has the most accurate Hard Candy Thermometer on the face of the planet (which is it's most recent 'found use around the house'). LOL!!!

You think that is neat, I was in THE last area of the LA Basin taht still had only a static Idle and 2500 test. When my wife went into get her 2000 Frontier tested, they guy rolled it up on the dyno, punched in the registration information....and went "Huh! Well this will be easy!" and then did the "Old Test"... Three miles in almost any direction and I would have had to Dyno Test. Then it all changed as people squeezed out to my area. As it will for you one day. Problem will be there, it will go from nothing straight to Dyno Testing. Be ready for the wakeup call!

Oh, I want video! Especially at 173.325mph with a G-Nose, and belly pan! LOL

I used .035 Wall T304L Stainless Steel.... But then again, I get surplus 20 foot sticks from completed jobs for free, so what else would I use? LOL

I'm going to call B.S. on the gauge as well. It does not alter the emissions, and is only an indicating gauge. Someone was B.S.-ing you that day. They will do that! On another aside, I got an enthusiastic call from someone down in Long Beach two days ago about their "Turbo Maxima"! I had told him the procedure for getting it referreed, and he did it. The guy was amazed how EASY it was. To put it simply: Engine same year or newer than the chassis. All required items for pollution control in place and functioning. As long as it passes the roller test, you get your certificate and door panel sticker forever more! Some of his quotes: "Those guys just looked around the engine bay, and it all looked stock, we put EVERYTHING in there from the ZX." "I'm amazed how easy it was!" It's really not that hard to be legal. It just takes some attention to detail. Now he has a Turbo 83 Maxima! And of course, now he's thinking of converting the windshield washer reservior for Methanol Injection, putting a bigger Turbo on, and hiding a MS unit using stock wiring. "They will never know!" A man after my own heart! LOL

The easiest way to determine heat soak or IAT Error, and the way OEM's do it is with a very narrow open thermocouple juncture stuck in various openings at various places along the intake tract. I know I can use a Swagelock Thermocouple Fitting, and stick a open junction CrAl unit dead nuts in the center of the manifold plenum, and with some fenagiling, down one of the runners from the opposite side of the intake plenum wall. The leads I have are 6+ inches long, so you can dangle them tantilizingly just about anywhere. This would probably be the best way to determine how much error you are getting from any given location---by referencing the thermocouple as actual air temperature, versus what your manifold IAT sensor is telling you your temp is... With a closed hood, going down the road chances are good the ambient temp on a N/A is close. But in stop and go, inlet air temp starts to rise for whatever reason. How much is dependent on the situation.

Ben has a good point in that Lucas Slide Valves have been used on Datsun Sixes for years in Europe. No obstruction whatsoever. The flow difference is pretty dramatic. When you look at the flow numbers for the Lumenition Barrel Throttle Assemblies a 45mm unit flows comparably to a 48mm Butterfly, but has (due to the way they machine the tip-in section of the barrel) tip-in characteristics of a 40mm Butterfly unit to about 25% throttle. It's suprisingly non-linear on the opening! Makes for a nicely modulated throttle off-idle. For all out, a Slide Valve or Barrel Throttle is current state of the art for Aftermarket systems. Of course, with the DEVAS system, infinitely adjustable valve timing would negate the necessity for a throttle plate altogether. All throttling would be accomplished through valve events. Don't get me started! LOL

Plenty of information on DIY injector cleaners at the Bowling and Grippo site (megasquirt inventors) as well as the Cosworth Vega website... http://www.cosworthvega.com/Articles/InjectorTester/Homemade%20Injector%20Cleaner.htm

I know the NISMO cover is actually CHEAPER than the OEM "pumpkin cover" that the earlier cars came with! They were pretty cheap last time I checked, something like $75 or so....The OEM Pumpkin Cover was over 100$...

somewhere around 36 psi at idle, and 40-42psi at WOT (sensor line off the FPR at idle), after you go onto boost, the pressure will stabilize at Boost+WOT pressure, so at 10psi boost, you will have 50-52psi fuel pressure. From that, you see that people boosting much more than 12psi are running really close to deadheading the pump. Given there IS a pressure drop from the pump to the front of the car (even in the ZX!), what you read at the fuel rail may be a much as 5psi LOWER than what is at the pump!!! Larger lines help...but there is a thing as overkill. For high pressure lines, the flow they can support is pretty outrageous. It's not like you only have 3psi to push the stuff through there as in Carburetted Applications...

The solid temp sensors are pretty much impervious to vibration, the open element units may be a bit more sensitive, though. There is the 'response' argument on open element -v- solid sensor as well, but for most applications I don't think the lag in response is that dramatic---especially in the case of a well designed solid sensor. I went with solid sensor instead of open element for that reason. If I start seeing a lag in temperatures compared to my J-Thermocouple Reader, I'll consider changing...until then, solid sensor for me!

They look the same as all the other Turbos in North America. 81 Turbo ECCS unit looks the same as an 82/83 ECCS unit. Chances are since the car is from Texas, that it's an EFI N/A box, and not a JDM or Euro Turbo Box. I would put that at somewhere along the 99.9999999th percentile

Uh, uh, uh! In the NORTH AMERICAN MARKET, the Turbo ECU has multiple connectors. In Europe that is EXACTLY what the turbo ecu looks like! no difference other than part number differentiation. The Multiple-Connector is ECCS, the single connector is EFI. European Z's got an EFI system with their turbos (as did JDM), only the USA got ECCS.

Don't tell BMW! The setup is similar to Eggers & Vickers Mechanical FI Manifolds from the 70's. Also similar to Knisler and Hilborn setups. Everything you need for making that manifold is available from Kinsler. Synchronisation is not a problem, the throttles should be set to be closed, and with milled flats on a properly sized throttle shaft, deflection or bending of the shaft should never be an issue. The turning torque of those even with a 24" shaft is really not that much. If you are smart, instead of turning it from one end, you install a throttle quadrant in the middle to actuate the common shaft. This makes no untoward torsional requirements on the shaft end-to end compared to turning it from either end. Especially if one sticks for some reason. Idle Air Bypass is done with a separate manifold and IAC Motor for best control of idle speed. Cracking six throttles open for idle speed control looses 1-3% resolution on the TPS map and you don't need/want that.

Similar here, stock Nissan Gasket, 21psi, with daily running at 17-18psi no problems in probably close to 60K miles.

How long do you plan on staying at the critical speed? Harmonics are also referred to as a 'critical speed' and in most rotating machinerly has first, second and third critical speeds. Normally engineering of the machine will have the machine operate below any of the critical speeds. In cases where this is not possible, acceleration through the critical speed as quickly as possible is normally done to minimize the effects of the harmonics. Unless you are running at Bonneville, and severely miscalculate your gearing and tire sizes so you are AT the critical near your terminal speed, you will accelerate through the speed with no ill effects.

The ZXT FPR will not regulate to 60 psi, it regulates to far less than that. Sounds like you have a restricted return line, and you simply are running on your internal relief valve... Eventually your pump will either overheat or simply burn out.

Stock fuel pump deadheads at 60psi. So you will have pressure, just no flow to the injectors. The internal relief lifts at that point... Stay to the 45psi WOT manifold referenced signal. Makes pulsewidths longer for better control of idle, and shorter for better resolution at full load. You can also trim the injector capacity somewhat using a middle of the road pressure, allowing for a +/- 10% enrichment or leaning of the fuel mix by simple pressure adjustments while tuning. Hundreds of thousands, if not millions of car out there running at 3bar. Why reinvent the wheel?

Well, got the box back into the car this morning. I really like the options availabe in the MSS-E. I am going to run some datalogs now to figure out what is going on... It's external to the box since Pete ran them in his car. Mine will start and run the car, but gets dropout. I am back to possibly a heat-induced failure in the Stock 81 CAS unit causing a bad input signal, or corrupted input signal causing strange tachometer workings. I can see it in both the stock tach in the car, as well as on the MT Tach gauge. But cold, once I get it started, the upper rev ranges are pretty smooth using some of the spark and fuel tables posted in the stickies. The supercharged was too rich down low, but worked O.K. in the upper rev ranges. Back to input checking... BAH! On occasion, the fuel pump stays on? Thoughts? I will shut it off, and restart, and the pump will shut off like with the old program. But sometimes it just stays running, and I can head something clicking out in the engine bay---possibly a relay.

Grounding, or Heat Sink Misapplication. If they are not properly grounded, and potted with heat conductive paste to a heat sink surface, they will fry really quickly. And as I posted in the other thread elsewhere, I went through some "New" aftermarket units from Wells / Autozone that were not much better than DOA. The only time mine started working was with the premium aftermarket unit from Perlux (Flamethrower) and that one worked wonderfully. The best I ever got out of the stocker aftermarket wells HEI module was a bluish/purple/reddish spark that jumped maybe 1/2" at the most...