Tony D

I bought my 73 from a P.O. who had 930 flares knocked off and then bonded to the car. They fit well on a 240. Nobody could tell me what the flares came from then one day I rolled up on a 930 on Harbor Blvd at the cross street of LaHabra Blvd, and we both sat there looking at each other... Two Turbos with big flares, and a Motor Officer with a radar gun just salivating at this prospect when the light turned green! LOL To fight the temptation was almost insurmountable.... Yeh, looks like 944 to me as well.

Richard's Z&ZX Service was in the low 11's in the early 80's in a full bodied ZX with a HOlley 650 Draw-Through Setup. My 73 had over 350HP on a similar setup using a Rajay Turbocharger, and External Wastegate. See the post below on "Turbo Toms" Information---the four-barrel turbo L6 was actually quite a popular conversion into the 80's here in the USA. In japan, they went with blow-through mikuinis in the 70's, and went to EFI by 1985---if you were a serious competitor. Till 1989, the Carboy L-Engine Shootout still had a majority of top competitiors running blowthrough Mikuinis or OER carbs. There were only 3 EFI drive teams at that one... The next year it all changed, and the tide swung forever to EFI setups. Both of those turbo-Z's I had were daily driven. The Mikuini car got the nod towards drivability. It averaged 17mpg at that power level (though when using power, it's mileage was more like 5mpg). The suck-through Holley wasn't that great on boost onset, nor drivability when cold compared to the Mikuini car, but on-boost they were about equivalent. My Triple Mikuini Blowthrough was detuned with a smaller turbo and lower boost (as well as selling off the FMIC) to around 300-350 and was dialy driven 26K miles a year in Commuter Traffic in L.A. from 90-94. Then EFI came Down the Pike that was affordable. And after dealing with suck-through and blow-through carburetion since my first Turbo Corvair upgrade in 1979, I BID CARBURETION A FOND FAREWELL AND NEVER LOOKED BACK! So what do I know, eh? Feel Free to Carburate. Want to buy a four-barrel-to-turbo adapter, how about SU-to-turbo Adapter? I got all sorts of stuff laying around the containers out back. My goal for them is to construct a "period conversion" car for shows. Not to drive, gads compared to EFI vehicles they are HIDEOUS, but just to show the kids who never saw a carburetted turbo setup what it was like back in the 70's...

Indeed, feel free to tread the exact same path as other have done in the past, and call your self unique, simply because you are ignorant of other people's accomplishments. not throwing stones, here, just shaking my head and laughing at the "to be unique" argument. Veritech speaks the truth, my question was, reading everything you have to go through, logic should start coming in to the equation somewhere and you have to start weighing the amount of work versus the amount of return. As for you 'plan' and bold comments, it sounds like someone more intent at being upset rather than listening to advice from someone who has been there. In particular, this was kind of funny: "take pros from both catagories and i pretty sure that both can get almost the same results w/ different methods of getting those results." May be, but one using stone knives and bearskins will take a bit longer to tune your vertical hold than the one that comes iwth a diagnostic scope and a full modern set of TV Tuner's tools. At the top levels of racing, you will find when you look closely that most come to the SAME conclusion albiet through different paths, but what they end up running in the end usually looks identical to the other guy because some stuff really does work better than other stuff does. What you are proposing is a sub-optimal setup, you will work a lot to achieve results similar to what you can get on stock EFI manifolds and a boost controller. Prove me wrong, happy to see innovation...but don't kid yourself you are unlocking some overlooked performance secret! So, before you blow up your engine, let me point out a few things you have missed in your latest plan, or downright have wrong, I'll take your points as you proposed them: BLOW through: 1. carb must be sealed & pressurized (yes you can get a solid float, or mod the old one) >>>>Carb needs a bonnet over the throat and accompanying float-bowl pressurization. Unless your throttle shafts leak like seives, sealing them in unrequired. If you must, running small tubes from your plenum to the throttle shafts to make a 'clean air buffer seal' arrangement is relatively easy. 2. ability to use an FMIC >>>>True 3. throttle response instant >>>>drivability like that of a N/A car throttle response wise, but also possible to boiil your fuel after long on-boost episodes (especially if non-intercooled). 4. must use a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator >>>>wise in either case 5. YOU CAN BOOST HIGHER THAN 10PSI >>>>in all caps, O.K., read below to get even more mad, and to start shouting even louder against the laws of physics 6. You will have to go with about a 14 psi fuel pump (see 4) >>>>Plain WRONG! If you run a 14psi pump, you will be limited to 10psi. I call tell you FIRSTHAND that when you boost to within 1-2 psi of the fuel pressure (you say 14psi at the pump---what at the fuel bowl...12?) you end up RUNNING LEAN and the boost pressure pushes your fuel back up the pipe and deadheads you pump. You need an EFI pump, with the ability to keep AT LEAST 3psi ABOVE your boost pressure, or you WILL blow your engine from running lean. If you do not change your floats (the subject was SU's, so unless you are using the 73-74 Flat Tops with Composite Foats-----HEY, you said unique, maybe that is the EXACT carb setup you are using so you are truly "unique"!) you WILL collapse your float at 10psi. You will collapse Weber Brass Floats at 10 psi. Rochester Floats make it to 12 psi before collapsing. Where are you getting these composite floats for SU's again? Because it's a trick item, and I want some. Not throwing stones or being sarcastic, but countering people making assumptions and theorizing about stuff that they haven't tried yet, and may not know the whole story about. If ther eare composite floats available for SU's, then I don't know about them. (Oh, BTW, those Plastic Hollow Floats crack, take on fuel, and sink...they may not collapse like the brass units, but the fail in short order....) And the stock brass units collapse at 10psi, meaning that WILL BE your limit without changing the floats. If you don't change your floats, using a 14psi pump (oh, like a Holley Red, perhaps?) and 10-12PSI will be your limit before detonation kills your engine. I'm not arguing, I'm relating facts from firsthand experience and observation... DRAW though: 1. easy, factory method >>>>If you have a Buick, or other GM product from the 60's. BLOW THROUGH was the standard by the 80's on European Vehicles like the Lotus and Maserati BiTurbo. 2. cant use any type of air cooler >>>>This does not mean you can't forestall detonation through other means of "charge air cooling"---such as methanol injection, or simple water injection. I personally have run over 20psi on non-intercooled blowthrough and draw-through systems. An intercooler is noice, but in some applications you simply don't have the room, and it's no big deal, you work aroudn it with alternate types of 'charge air cooling'. 3. tuning is more critical >>>>If you think tuning is easier on one than the other, you are mistaken. If anything, tuning on a drawthrough is easier because of using the carburettor in the same state it normally is, with a vacuum source underneath it! Though once you go on-boost with an SU using a needle and no supplementary injection of fuel, you're screwed. Limit your boost, as there is only so much fuel you can pull through that jet, and unless you run a boost-indexted FPR (yes, on a draw-through) or some other way of raising the float bowl level HIGHER than normal while under boost, you will have one HELL of a time getting the on-boost AFR correct after 12psi. Using a Quadrajet, no problem. A pair of SU's might be easier to get the fuel, but I feel for the poor bastard who will have to calibrate them and make sure they are giving the right mix.... I shudder at that. 4. fuel to all 6 cylinders with one carb evenly is unheard of >>>>ABSOLUTELY! But Fuel THROOUGH A TURBOCHARGER to all six cylinders is EASY! As Smokey Yunik said of the "Turbocharger"---it's not really so much a turbocharger as a "homogenizer"---AFR out of that turbine blade is VERY consistent. Getting the air to the six is the easy part. 5. throttle response is sluggish at first. >>>>First? As opposed to later? I don't know what that is supposed to mean, but Throttle Response is directly related to intake length and velocity through the system. This should say "Throttle Response worse than blow-through" and that's about as far as you can take it. 6. no big worry of carb vacuum leaks >>>>HAH! Vacuum leaks on this draw-through will equal DETONATION through running lean. On a Blow Through, the vacuum leaks will turn to (and that probably should say 'might') pressure leaks, which means fuel-air may leak out. On a draw through, you just run lean and detonate. To sum it up, no, I'm not trying to shut anyone down, but give me a logical reason to go through ALL THIS when you can have the EXACT SAME LOOK, proper fuel distribution, and SAFE engine operation with far less work? You feel free to make up anything you want, I encourage it. But to make a comment like this: "anything is possible, but are you good at it is the question.this seems to be territory were skill comes into play. can you design, build, modify, tune, and be successful? thats basically what it comes down to in the end." Well, to put it mildly, it's downright insulting! Impugning someones' experience through an arrogant claim to say you are good at somthing...well let's just leave it at this: I've done this setup, I've made it work---you haven't as of yet. My question of WHY comes directly from that experience. You claim uniqueness. Well, fine. Then performance isn't the goal. Cool. Go for it! But don't think this setup is anything new, and if you think you can argue or change the laws of physics, then you are, indeed skilled to a godlike level, and we should all bow before you and drink of your intelligent succor when it comes to making 1930's techonlogy work the way it did in the 1930's.... Bravo! There is a difference between being "open minded" and simply choosing to ignore some hard-learned facts from those who have been ther ebefore you...you are correct ronjiro, for someone posting here, I would have expected you to be a bit more open minded...

Even more importantly on a car that cranks but does not fire....do you have spark as well? You are not tromping on the pedal while cranking (giving the 'flood clear' signal inadvertently)... Pulsewidth showing doesn't mean it's enough to fire the engine, especially if there is no spark on the plugs.... Do you see your fuel pressue fluctuate at all while cranking? Usually the bogger pulsewidth batch fire on simultaneous will draw down the fuel pressure enough to see it. If you don't see fluctuations, you may indeed not have injection events happening, but you have to also verify spark... Is the Injector LED on the MS Box flashing, indicating the MS is sending an initiation pulse to the injectors? If it's not, then there may be something internal to the MS. If it is, then it may be external between the box and the injectors. Just because you read it on the MT, doesn't mean it's actually physically connected and cycling the injectors.

They have pills that are white with little prongs on them, they usually are sold three to a pack, in a range covering 1500rpm. So 6000, 6500, and 7000 would be in one pack. You just swap them for whatever range you want. They also have a splitter, so you can put two "pills" in at one time, as swap between them with a switch. I used a keyswitch in the ashtray, and when I had to valet park, I have a 7000 and a 2000 rpm pill. The Valet gets 2000rpm... And the keyswitch key stays with me. My brother parked cars, I don't trust any valet.

O.K. then, Sch40 Stainless, that's what I was looking for. It just looked thin for a Sch40. The wall thickness on Sch 40 is 0.145", as opposed to Sch 10 which is 0.109". Sch5 is somewhere around .085" if I recall, maybe 0.095"---been a long time. BTW, Sch 10 is still PIPE, it is measured in exactly the same way as all other PIPE. Same as Sch 5... Which starts getting pretty thin, but it's still an ASTM Pipe Schedule Piece.... I think you can get "Tubing" which is actually thicker than Sch 5 stuff. But that is a different discussion, right?

Oh, come on now! Justification for machine tools never hinges on the amount of work you will do with it, it rests solely on the fact that you need it for just this one project honey, and I'm sure I will use it on lots of other stuff once we have it here at the house! Really! When does logic come into the purchase of machine tools? Hell, I bought one, and still have to wire it up two years later... But is sure looks nice! I have seen cracks on the front crossmember in the past, yep, on solid mounted diffies. Cracked moustache bars as well, usually cracks coming from the holes for the rear differential mounting studs. Almost every R180 car I have picked up recently has had loose moustache mounting bolts as well.

Yeah, $50K would be with you doing a lot of the assembly work yourself. Buying one and restoring it may be a more prudent course.

Tremec TKO2 and a Ford input spline on your clutch... Shifts snick-snick-snick through the gears, with about a 1000 rpm spread between gears, and a nice overdrive! $3400 though... Then again, with G-Force offering 600ft-lb capable upgrades to T-5 Boxes, that also opens up a viable option...

Well, you can do what I said... to make the carbs work. They might do it. But you will be limited to 10psi from those brass floats. For 10psi, why bother? IMO for that amount of boost, you will get more reliable response from the stock L28ET setup, using Megasquirt for fueling. As olderthanme says, for the SU's on a N/A setup, you can make some serious "stock looking" power, yet have all the advantages of EFI. For olderthanme, here are some interesting thoughts: The crossbar linkage on the balance tube has an ID slightly larger by about .010" thatn a common hardware screw. If you get this screw with a shoulder on it, it is the EXACT same diameter as the stock Nissan "D" Shaft sticking out of the side of the T/B. Meaning file a flat on it, and it rotates in the same direction as the stock Nissan Throttle Position Potentiometer, so with a small plate on that front casting boss, and the screw stuffed into that balance tube crossbar, with the screw pinning it form roatating, you have your self a nice TPS setup for your "gutted" SUs... Using a tube and cutting the bores out of the SU body on a lathe using a boring bar makes for a nice insert for a 45 or 46mm Straight-Through throttle bore, which can utilize the stock air horns inside the stock air cleaner. If you do it F-1 style, and put your two large 550cc injectors in the air horn using a device similar to the Ford TBI setup on the 5.0 HO engines in a Mustang, or Crown Vic, you have a system that supports at least 215 HP, and all the tubing can be concealed in vacuum tubes... Not that I have given any thought to hiding a system in stock SU's, or gone through preliminary mockup or anynthing.... LOL

Are we talking the difference between Sch40 Mild Steel, and Sch10 Stainless? The stainless photos look like Sch10, which I have seen used before on headers, and form my understanding is about the same cost as Sch40 mild, but can be welded with less heat, and weighs slightly less. Just clarifying.

Air pressure in the float bowls is regulated by a modulator ring at the entrance to the main carb throttle body to give incrementally more pressure in the float bowls, compared to the throttle bore itself.The suction piston still works THE SAME as on a non-blown through carburettor, as there is STILL a pressure differential between the front of the carburettor and the back. Needle diameter is not done on a lathe unless you are making a new needle from brass stock. You have to chuck it in a lathe or drill, and use crocus cloth on the various jet-metering-steps to remove material. On an SU you HAVE to go from a state of LEAN to RICH while tuning the needle taper---not exactly what you want to do on a turbo car. I went through hell one summer in 79-80 tuning a single draw-through SU for a 2.6L car...... I can tell you from experience, it's FAR EASIER to do this via standalone EFI. The needle stations do NOT correspond to rpm! The correspond to load / manifold vacuum referenced points. It may be at one station at 1500rpm, and the same station at 4000rpm---the difference being throttle position and load imparted to the engine. You have to determine which station you are at by a tool that sticks up therough the damper cover, which shows your stations scribed in lines...you makre load and rpm -vs- AFR and make your needle adjustments from there. Like I said, the needles will be done from Lean to Rich, so if you go too far, you are over-rich, and get to start all over. Hopefully you are good taking notes and know the diameter you started with, and where you went too rich, and can go back on your next needle to the righ diameter. You get real good with light touches using 600 grit crocus cloth dabbed with mother's polish to take .0005" or less off the needle at a time. Oh yeah, and each time you do the stations, don't get that cloth on the previous station, or you screw it up. And make sure you put that needle back into the piston EXACTLY where you took it out from, relative to total length extended into the jet body or you will be off---making you sand the wrong position the next run... And yeah, you gotta do TWO of them EXACTLY the same instead of just one... And that means you will get really really good at pulling the suction domes and pulling the needles out and putting htem back in... And we are pursuing this WHY again? Suffice to say, you can blow-through an SU. The jetting does not have to be operated much differently that the N/A taper IF you use the modulator ring and riase the float bowl level. (I wish I had known about this back in 80 for my drawthrough as I could have used an adkustable FPR to raise float bowl level on-boost and keep the needle a bit fatter for better off-boost fuel economy) Problem is you will be estimating how much fuel you can pump through an open orifice at incremental pressures as the boost goes up. At some point you will run past the original SU inlet nozzle's capacity to fill the bowl and keep the fuel level steady, your float bowl level goes down, and you run lean on-boost. BOOM! For all the effort to get them half-assed working correctly, you would be WORLDS AHEAD gutting the SU's, putting a 1.5" spacer behind each of them, installing a 1000CC/Min injector facing forward towards the throttle plate, and drive them using a Megasquirt. I 100% guarantee that the Megasquirt setup will deliver MORE power, BETTER mixture control, and take LESS TIME TO SET UP than working with the SU's. On an N/A car, dialing in SU's is one thing. Go turbo, and they start falling short. They weren't designed to work that way, and you are really trying to make a hammer do the job of a scalpel during brain surgery! Oh yes, and on the "foam filled floats" issue. The stock brass floats tend to collapse around 10psi. You guys are working way to hard to make a BAD idea work poorly (at best)... Been there, done that....never again!

What was the phrase of a renowned road racer? (Paraphrased) "You have enough power when you can leave black marks from the exit of one corner, to the entrance of the next!" 600HP in an S130 won't do that....not enough power. More power, please! (THey ran in competition in the early 80's with as much at 820HP, so this is what could be referred to as a "Conservative Target" of only 600HP!

Reading closer you will also note I said if applied properly, and mosre importantly thinly. This is not the case at the B-Pillar solder joint. More importantly, the Z's did have polyester filler OVER the body solder as the main contour putty. This is a weight issue on a sports car. Had they done a solder/contour job like on a 1957 Chevy, chances are good the B pillar wouldn't crack at the top. But they didn't, they used polyester, and as a result, it cracks. The only solder in that joint is ther for joining panels and giving a non-moveable base for the Polyester. Unfortunately the body solder in the joint...it flexes, and the polyester doesn't after the years...

Jeff's car is really sedate and could easily be used in daily driven service. Given he gets 3psi at almost any rpm, the torque below boost threshold is very good making for great drivability. He can better give performance on the Elgin Grind, but as I recall he would break 30mpg during cruising. EFI and Turbos are a great combination! BTW, that is not the "radical" grind from Isky's Turbo Lineup. Ron is like a mad scientist when it comes to Nissan L-Grinds, he has some FAR more radical stuff out there, you just need ask! LOL But like Jeff says...probably not for the street. Hence my admonitioning and chiding Jeff about 'ANY' Turbo Z! LOL

So your saying my paranoia was justified? Halleluija! LOL We got another system into the car now, but that TEC is just laying around. Maybe I will "bite the bullet" and install it in my street car. It really gave great service (17 World Land Speed Records for N/A 3 Liter Classes), but the Damper we installed was setup for the new system, and when we started having high-rpm sensor issues (8500+ rpm) we just gave up. We didn't have much luck with other sensors, but knowing this now it may help with the unit in the future. We never actually ran in closed loop. Due to cam overlap, it was on blend till almost 50% throttle. We didn't use the unit at partial throttle, this was full on racing at Land Speed Events. I was "told" it was a WBO2.... hence my misunderstanding of the question above! In the case of the TEC2 taking a 1V switched input, I'd go with the switched output from a WBO2 controller. But if there is a WBO2 interface already available.... hmmmmm....

he he he he! A professionally prepared head can run $1500+ This will be for a head that WORKS. Not some hog-job. The power of the Nissan Engine is in the head. Don't skimp there. For the prices mentioned, you can buy a rustbucket ZX Turbo Donor Car and be well on the way to the dark side...and have loads more power than you will ever get with an N/A setup. Good Luck!

Make a mold, use the original dash as the plug. Make your dash, install it. Simple! if it's free form, glue blocks of poly foam (or use the spray foam) to rough out the form you want, then lay your laminate over it. Finish as required. Simple! (Lots of details left vague, in the spirit of the original post! LOL)

Got to agree with Racer X here! Having been fortunate to take a body arts classes from people who used lead daily (a crazy lot those guys were !) they were the first to tell you "Anything that happend to Bondo can happen with lead!" It will fall off, it will crack, it will rust underneath... It's all in the way it's applied, and the skills of the technician applying it. Most of the old-timers were using Bondo, and GLADLY didn't look back! My instructor would skim coat over lead simply because of economics: "Look, you can metal finish this panel in another 50 hours, or you can finish it now in 2 using a bondo skim coat." Lead work required a lot of filler, then sloooooowly filing it down flush and smooth. If you went too far, you basically started over. If you were close, you simply applied primer to fill. Sand, reprimer, sand, reprimer, sand.... Many times people used Acid-Based fluxes for tinning the base metal, and if you didn't tin COMPLETELY there was this nice little pocket of ACID and BARE METAL. Now it rusted/corroded from UNDER the lead to the backside of the panel where nobody notices it...then the water gets BEHIND the lead....and like RacerX said: POPOUT! There were caveats all over about properly cleaning your tinning flux as the acid would ruin the nitrocellulose paints---caused swelling in the finish topcoat. Nasty stuff... But these guys also WORKED the metal. The key in any filler is to get the surface as close as possible to evenly smooth WITHOUT filler. That is the definition of "metalworking." As long as either filler is thin, they will hold. Long term, lead will not heat-shrink-pullup like most of today's poly fillers, but epoxy microbaloons mixed and applied is better than bondo anyway... I digress... Back to "Work the metal". In the old days after you welded a panel, you hammerwelded it... That is two men worked the weld with a torch and hammer-dolly to bang it down flush so the weld was indistinguishable from the metal surrounding it. Lots of dolly and hammer work, lots of shrinking... By metal finishing, from what I see there, it looks like they rounded the camber plate to the weld, and the weld to the strut tower area, nothing more. If you fill over a structural weld, you are asking for a catastrophic failure to come up and bite you! Most sanctioning bodies forbid grinding or smoothing of welds at all---especially when dealing with crash structures and suspension reinforcements. The most I would do is weld a lot of filler on there, and grind it back down flush. There is not any reason to need any filler if you properly work the metal, and then topcoat directly over the weld. At least then if something is cracking from being worked too thin, you will see it through the paint. You put it under lead or bondo, and it's not going to show up until you hit a bump and your strut tries to open your hood in mid-corner!

ANY Turbo L28 Jeff? I did the gearing checks and I need 28" tires and 650HP+ if limited only to 7500rpm. ANY? LOL

Just some information... I approached Splitfire for some plugs back in the 1990's. They are Autolite Plugs, so don't kid yourself, they are a special electrode on an Autolite. At least at that time... Anyway, they made up a run of plugs for me (Champion D15Y Equivalent). The results of installing those plugs on a turbocharged, gas engine which was operating 24/7 attached to a full load dyno (electrical generation) and had Kenicocks (meaasures cylinder pressures), as well as EGT and AFR feedback on it was the following: Cylinder pressure variations were reduced considerably. They fired MUCH more evenly. Cylinder EGT's conformed to within a 25 degree total variance on a V16 engine. This was almost unheard of in this service, normal variance accepted was 100 degrees cylinder to cylinder. Fuel consumption was reduced by 50,000CFD, and resultant Heat Rate (horsepower produced compared in a ratio of BTU's consumed) was the BEST the sets had EVER seen. The OEM came out to check our figures, they were that much improved. Dyno readouts (KW Metering) were ROCK STEADY, misfires went almost totally away. They acted more like TURBINES coming up to full power, than ICE's! Downside: They lasted around 100 hours, as opposed to 350-450 hours for the Champions. The center electrode was worn away and the gap increased to the point of misfire. Had Splitfire used a more durable center electrode, these plugs would have been a hot seller in that market. Now I understand they make platinum tipped plugs, that may help, but innovators and experimenters are not going to try there at that site again--which is a shame. You can say all you want about them being a farce or whatever, but I was privy to this testing firsthand, and I tell you they worked astoundingly well.

I gap for smoothest idle, and least dropout on the top end. Whereever that is, that's where it ends up being. May be .055, may be .035... wherever it runs the best. The wider the gap you can run the better it will fire off more reliably at idle and keep emissions the lowest. But this means you need a good coil, wires, cap and rotor. On a turbo, you have to gap for least dropout (misfire) under boost, in some cases this is as small as .015" Gap by bending the ground electrode at the base---ideally you would use a gapping tool which keeps the gap even by keeping the strap parallell to the surface of the center electrode tip... but who has one of those besides me? (Had to gap 96 plugs really quick. I would gap them in sets of 500 each, so yeah, I bought a mechanical gapper!)

What you have coming to your house is 240/220. This is split in your panel with some busbars that hook to your circuit breakers. 110V breakers feed off ONE busbar and a Neutral, while the 220V breakers feed off BOTH bussbars, with another line in there for ground. If you feed 110V to a plug in your house, you feed HALF the box with power. And this means HALF of any 220V appliance will have power, the other will be a 'dead leg'. If you feed with the 240 socket, you will backfeed to both your bussbars, and power everything equally just like the power company. So yes, all the generator power will go into the panel. Making a balanced load will be up to you... As stated above, the service disconnect must be opened as you can backfeed the grid. Myself, I have service disconnect, a power panel separate, and a meter I can pull. Pulling the meter takes you off the grid totally (with the above caveats about breaking seals, etc...) If you use the 240 Plug (and that is the only way using a plug would work even somewhat safely) then the 110V plug will not be needed. There is no guaranteed way with 110plugs to insure you feed to both bussbars, or in any event not do something bad electrically (I recall "synchronous buss connections and phase rotation checks" lectures now...) Shut off ALL your breakers before connecting. Then turn them on one at a time as you need the circuits. I would not turn them all on unless you have a generator capable of all your needs. I personally would chack voltage with everything think you need to have running, as said above little generators are not the greatest on regulation sometimes. Even an auto transfer switch can fail. For the effort, a manual transfer switch would be the way I went. I like to turn it over and know mechanically there is no way for it to stick in position (been there, seen that)...

Tim, I could have gone the rest of my life without ever seeing that photo! Gargh! That brought back memories. We used them for cleaning the accumulation out of landfill gas recovery pipes... Imagine that smell. It comes back to me now. It came back when I saw that photo, as well. Eeeych!

Lots of misinformation here regarding what the C-Production Morton/BRE car was... I can assure you it is not "really close to stock". If you are wanting a REAL EXACT replica, plan on spending between $32 to $50K on the vehicle. Chassis prep with a full cage and seam welding will run close to $10K alone (JohnC's Beta Motorsports can do that work for you in SoCal, as well as the Fabricator that did Ron Carter's car) Interior? White Paint over a gutted interior, with a matte-black dash that is all-business... Figure the engine will run you another $10 to 15K. This L24 would be making around 325 at the crankshaft, at around 7500-8000 rpms. You are talking lift in the area of .620", and duration at .050 nearing 290... Transmission? Direct Drive five speed from Nissan Competition---"A" Box. It goes on from there.