Tony D

niiice... I agree on the Alpha-N blend for ITB's. The TEC2 system we had on the Bonneville car was a DREAM off-idle with the PAFFZ-Blend software---used a blend of Alpha-N and MAP as the RPM rose. Much smoother than the pure-MAP based system we have on the thing now, but this one give us more power under the curve for whatever reason. Much more torque. You think 7cfm per throttle is bad, try a Six Cylinder engine total displacement of 1998CC's breathing through 45mm ITB's...with a Bonneville Cam set up for shiftpoints in the 92-9500rpm range! Talk about no vacuum signal at idle....or off idle for that matter. Alpha-N is the way to go in that situation, for SURE!

Coates was contacted and were uninterested in any development of the L-Engine head, regardless of who was footing the developmental costs! "They stopped returning e-mails" is one way of saying it. I worked with Coates-Valved Powerplants, mostly Cat conversions from Diesel to CNG. So I was very familiar with their operation and what they are capable of when put into service over-the-road. Unfortunately, even when dealing with people who know our company was using their product, they were unwilling to experiment with short-run stuff. I was very disapointed, and so was JeffP. BRAAP has my thoughts dead on---I deal with large industrial centrifugal compressors as a daily bread kind of thing. The BIGGEST thing we do to save a customer money is debottleneck their system so they can get the air to where they need it. Our compressors will work fine at 110psi, but the FLOW MORE at 85psi, and if that is all they really need for their plant tools and instrumentation, pumping it up to 110 wastes horsepower. Same with a Turbo driven off the exhaust...if you pump it up, you loose efficiency. Think about CART engines. They continually drop the boost (last I heard they were down to less than 7#) yet their horsepower stays constant... They don't NEED the boost. The more you depend on building pressure to make horsepower, the laggier the turbo driven car will feel. Taking a drive in JeffP's car will feel like an N/A 240Z on steroids. Boost comes on immediately (about 2psi) and like when a 240 comes on the cam around 3500, Jeff's car makes big power starting around 3200 with a rush to the rev limiter at 73 to 7500rpm. He's afraid of the stroker crank at this point...he'll get over it I suppose. But the camshaft profile is more like an N/A grind and so is the power curve...just waaaay up there. Build for flow through the engine, then size the turbo for the flow you will need. Braap mentions 20psi and 500HP. This is JeffP's case exactly. He WAS making 415 to the rear wheels at 23psi on his last cam/turbo/head. On the current cam/turbo/head he's making over 585 to the rear wheels on an aborted run to only 6300 at just under 20psi. Flow is good, boost is bad. You just need a shove through the valve, no need to cram it in there. If it goes in and out easily, you will make more power. I just get frustrated when I see someone stating they want to build to a specific boost level, instead of a particular horsepower level, or performance benchmark. So you make 20psi. Like BRAAP said, are you making 400 with that, or 500+? Personally I'd like to be the guy making the 500+. if you prepare the engine for the flow, you operate at parameters that aren't so high. FOR INSTANCE: How much heat does your intercooler need to take out at 30psi to return it to ambient? If you make your engine that will flow, and you only have to boost to 15psi to reach that point, doesn't it follow that you will more realiztically be able to meet ambient conditions in a wider range of conditions only generating half the heat to begin with? No matter what, compressing air to 30psi will raise the temp a defined amount. And compressing it to 15psi will be half that (if your compressor is sized accordingly in each case.) Taking out twice the heat will be more difficult. There's just so much that adds up when you mega-boost an engine. For survivability, the lowest boost you can run to make the horsepoer you need is the ideal scenario. The less boost you need, the less lag you should have, the less threshold you should have, and things should generally be happier all-around.

JDM: The Kei Cars are limited to 600cc's, and many are 550cc's. There are all sorts of turbos, superchargers, and compound turbo/supercharger setups on the little beasts. I had a Suzuki Alto Super-Turbo when I left Japan. DOHC with a turbocharged, intercooled, roots-blown 550CC two-cylinder that made something like 74HP. Yeah, the car was reeeeeally small, but for two people it was all you needed. It was larger than the Cervo I owned. That one had a big bore kit to 600CC's, and ran a 48IDA Weber and special reed valves....would rev (two stroke) like you wouldn't believe. Hoot to drive!

Yes, all the S30/GS30/S31/GS31 model Fairlady Z's had R180's in various ratios from 3.70 to 4.37... Where in Wisconsin? I'm in Steven's Point for a job this week, but alas, am heading out to Buffalo via the U.P. (long route...lol) tomorrow morning.

Why 30#? Properly executed, the car will make more horsepower than you will ever be able to hook up well below 20#... Ask JeffP about how the right cam and porting wakes up a turbo engine! He thought he needed 30# to reach his goal, and in reality he has surpassed it to the rear wheels before 20# judging by the last dyno run... And that is on a stock single-Throttle Plate turbo manifold that kills 30 CFM on each runner. Wonder what power would be available with that additional flow by opening it up? How much is too much? Boost is only a reflection of restriction to flow. Big boost numbers making big horsepower isn't a sign of precise engine planning, just forced induction working really hard to make the power. Open up the air pumping efficiency, and the same power happens at MUCH lower boost levels.

Urgh... A compressor running continually at the pressure it needs to drive the tools is more efficient than one that pupst over the required pressure, shuts off, then restarts to pump up at some lower pressure. In air, storage storage storage is the key! The more storage capacity you have, the less horsepower you will need for impulse loads. Air tools rating? Trash and marketing hype. See if you can find an Ingersoll Rand Air Tool Catalog---they are one of the manufacturers that shows the "real" consumption of an air tool when in actual 100% duty----general rule of thumb, 2 to 3X what the 'rated CFM' of most manufacturer's ratings say! As I'm sure John C will say soon enough: Buy a used compressor, and industrial one that some local mom and pop compressor house took in on trade. Convert the motor to 220V single phase, and be set for life with a 5HP compresson made of good old American Cast iron sitting on a 120 gallon tank. Use a regulator AT the tank, don't run the tools on tank pressure, you're wasting air. What am I doing right now, besides shirking my paperwork duties at work? Supervising the Emergency Overhaul of an 8000HP Joy 4MSG12 Air Compressor for an Air Products 290Ton Per Day Air Separation Facility. Every day they are down it costs them $200,000 in lost production. Not a real big compressor, but big enough. The low speed rotating assembly weighs 686#, and spins at 12,800rpm. If you want specific questions answered, PM me, and I'll try to do my best to help you out. Air is my business...Air Solutions, more specifically. Damn, I sound like a salesman now... LOL

Evil, Evil, Evil! I bow to your stealthiness, oh great one! I now have a new favorite way to do it! Muahahahaa! Great idea. My tank vents through a JDM 'dump tube' in the filler neck! BTW, the relationship of the main pump to the boost pump is pretty much irrelevant as long as the surge tank is constructed properly. The whole key to the Surge Tank Concept is to have the pickup to the main pump continually flooded with fuel under slight pressure to keep the main pump primed. The #75 Steve Millen IMSA car (Cunningham Racing) has two surge tanks almost the entire height of the car and 4" in diameter! ALWAYS had flooded inlet even if a big pocket of air was sucked by any of the booster pumps. Fuel out the bottom, air and excess fuel out the top. The further between the two, the better. Taller than wider is the desired aspect of the tank profile.

Mine at idle is about 152, and under boost can go as high as 190. I have a 160 thermostat. I noticed it stays fairly cool at idle, compared to when I start driving around when it goes up a bit, stabilizing under normal off-boost cruise around 160/165, but on a hot day (98-100F)it can be slightly higher.

nice to see 'follow through' stories on people actually stepping up and buying parts they 'had an interest in' when a vendor was laying out capital to make production fixtures. it doesn't always happen. hopefully john's moulds will be quickly amortized, and his profit margin goes up to 'sustainable levels' so the parts remain available for years to come. thanks for the support, john. even if my S130 needs to be heavy! LOL

I guess by even thinking about Oxy-Acetylene, I expose myself as an automotive anachronisim... Though in the 70's at competiton prep department, that's how they did it and it worked well for the day... That's it, I'm going for a 'period correct' racer! My labor rate just tripled, I'm an artist, not just some hack! LOL

If you are SURE you want that size, simply have a machine shop chuck them up in a lathe and turn them for you to the new size. I have done this on Mikuinis for years simply because I had a truckload of 32mm Chokes from JDM OEM applications. You may want to have them turned to 32, do a dyno pull, and see if you are satisfied.

Very nice adapter! Might I posit a question? Would it be worthwhile to put some 'horns' on the adapter to allow a semi-engine plate installation? Using a horn left and right with either an axle snubber or engine mount in place on a C-Sectioned portion of the framerails would allow a very nice, solid mount, relative to torqueover and reaction torque on deceleration, all without the hassle of true solid engine mounts on the L-Block. Basically rubber mounted engine with very limited torqueover movement. Even if you don't put the horns on it, with that substantial a plate, simply machining a few holes and making some reaction arms to blot to it would suffice as well, I suppose. Just a thought.

Running two groups of three on INJ 1 and INJ2 and alternating them--one squirt or two per cycle? I have noticed a BIG difference in the way these cars run depending on how the injectors are staged and how many squirts you use to inject the fuel. Anything that keeps the fuel pressuresteadier normally helps with the way the vehicle runs. 1FastZ's car had massive fluctuations on his ITB setup, until we switched from 'simultaneous' to 'alternating' and went from one squirt per cycle to two squirts. That steadied the Fuel Pressure so the thing really didn't move appreciably. This will keep the FPR from beating itself to death trying to regulate the pulsations as well. You don't need the pulsation dampner, but it doesn't hurt anything, either. JeffP recently added an aftermarket dampner on his rail because the 750cc injectors batch-firing was doing odd things to his fuel pressure, and it WAS showing up in his O2 Datalogs while on the Dyno. I'd be curious to see if it gets better switching Simultaneous and ALternating, and going to 2 squirts per cycle. Some cars will not run it gets so bad until the settings are correct.

The only real problem with the 82/83CAS drive setup is the possibility that the drive gear on the spindle can SLIP, changing timing radically. This can happen during vigorous track activities, a hard cut / reengage on the rev limiter, or something that throws a reverse pulse into the drive while at higher rpms while pumping oil hard... People say it's not an Issue, but it DOES happen. I have had my drive gear pinned with a 3mm dowel. When JeffP was running his car on the Dynapack at Jim Wolf, the timing spun almost a full 180 degrees! We retimed it, ran it again up to the point where the engine started bucking from running lean, and then rechecked the timing and it was AGAIN off by 7 degrees. Once they slip, they are prone to do it again. So a word to the wise, if you want BULLETPROOF, pin that damnable gear so it CAN'T slip! There is no appreciable torque to drive the dissy anyway, I suspect it's an inertial thing with the pump being driven. The Nissan Tech that stopped by mentioned that spinning dizzy drive gears, or shattered crank drive gearing was fairly common 'in the old days'--so suspect this little malady is an oft-forgotten or overlooked reason for 'timing drift' in cars. Just and FYI so it doesn't come up and people are scratching their heads. Otherwise, it's a VERY easy way to get the Crankfire/Cam Sensor setup for full sequential. Nice idea, I'm going to check with JeffP and see if that scenario is compatible with Lance's Box.

I thought everybody used Harbor Freight Dollies! I put a 2X6 Frame on them, with a little cutout on the right front for the oil pump. The 2X6 hugs the rails of the oil pan, and the cutout lets it sit right down nice and snug---it's pretty easy to make up, and then they sit VERY STABLE on the furniture dollies. Of course, if your storing TURBO engines, there is another slot to cut on the left side to clear the stock oil return. But you can do it with a hammer and hand saw... This allows you to 'stack' an engine beneath two others that are sitting on the 750# HF Engine Dollies. So you can get four in the place of two...

Roosty, you got plans for that trailer anywhere? I could probably knock that out in a weekend, and it would make my life considerably easier. I could then concentrate monies on a 'real' enclosed trailer for weekend and week-long outings, with that little gem of yours for daily transport duties. With what I spend on U-Hauls (even at the 'preferred renter rate of $35 Daily for the Auto-Transport) I could have bought a damn trailer, but I LIKE yours much better than anything I see for sale locally!

I have cars with all three locations: 1) near stock EFI pump location on stock EFI Pump Bracket (240Z) with primer pump up near where EFI pump is on 2+2's (angled rear floor in front of A-Arms) 2) on right fender well, with booster pump on Stock EFI Bracket in back with EFI pump underneath. 3) On FRONT of Radiator Core Support (Aquarium Filter Surge Tank) with an IN-TANK pump inside the Surge Tank, and the booster pump in back on the stock 260Z Electric Pump Mounting Bracket. Of the three locations I have tried, I prefer the front of the radiator with the in-tank pump and the Rear of the Car. The car I had mounted on the right fenderwell just made the area inside the engine bay too busy, and like you said: it's hot. Anything you can do in the engine bay, you can do in front of the radiator and it will remain cooler. Crash integrity is of concern, but if you have a proper pump circuit with crash interrupt (get it from any Ford Product with EFI---I know Tempo/Topaz have them behind the carpet in the Left Rear of the Trunk, and Ranger Pickups are on the passenger's footwell tranny tunnel near the firewall under the carpet) they reset easily, and will kill any circuit instantly in case of Heavy-G impact or Rollover. As long as you kill the pumps, the system depressurizes through the return line quickly to prevent fuel spewage during crashes---if it spills at all.

In that case, I have to question your testing methodology, and the gauge itself. If your readings are moving around, and you are making comments regarding throttle position, you need to follow proper compression testing methodology---I simply thought we were beyond that point discussing it here, so apparently not. Test with standard methodology, or tell us the methodology you are using in your test for us to be of more help. Leaving things out makes for bad advice, and usless commentary. We may as well be grasping at hairs on a camel's back to solve the Mid-East troubles in that case....

OOOOOR, you could have enough combustion chamber deposits that they are affecting the compression readings. Likely the rings seated better if it was a fresh engine. 145 is a bit low, 175 is a good (better) number...

UPDATED: Due to the thing running well for 45 minutes before having any problems whatsoever after Z-Ya cleaned up myn box and verified his car ran on it, I decided that the CAS possibly was the culprit. I re-accomplished some testing this morning, and datalogged it---I saw tachometer irregularities starting at about 35 minutes of runtime, getting gradually worse as the time went on until at 45 minutes it was nothing but a backfiring, popping, stumbling POS---with a fuel pump that stayed on... So at that point, I dropped the oil pump dsrive spindle out, and converted to the 82/83CAS. I had to reconfigure my spark settings, but that was quick work, and up and running it went. After an hour of testing, and datalogging to confirm it, there appears to be no troubles at this point. It hasn't run this good since I initially fired it up on the 8X8 tables in late 2002! Apparently the 81 CAS I was using was intermittently failing with the heat. Today it was around 95 degrees F, and the datalogs showed I started with 34C coolant temperature and 32C Inlet air temperature (ended at 82C and 56C respectively...) So it appears to all be working now. Sage words of advice from Moby's Sticky: START WITH A KNOWN RUNNING CAR. I bought this out of a J/Y with no idea on how it was working at time of junking. Many thanks to Z-Ya for confirming the box was good, and doing his magical repairs. That put me on to the failed CAS in short order. Just finding the time to do it was a chore. Now to do my taxes, as I'm off to Timmons Ontario, directly after my stint in Buffalo NY the next two weeks. Won't be back till after they're due! BAH! BOTHER! Yaay! MS runs again (finally!)

I think this testing station does have the option for rolling road. It's earlier in the post where BJ was posting photos and giving more details. Wether we use that or not I don't know. In either case, the time is close, and I can't wait to see the results, rolling road underneath, or not! Baited Breath...

I will second warnings about DIY Tank Slushing Kits. I always bought my stuff from Aircraft Spruce, and even now they warn that their original kit is for AVIATION ONLY. Apparently some of the new additives in petrol cause the original aviation kits to come loose and clog---so they have a different formula for cars. Apparently AvGas is a bit more controlled as to compounding, probably for just such a reason! So whatever slushing compound you use, make sure it is for todays fuels, and NOT for aviation usage. Something to do with alcohol or mtbe...the oxygenates. Otherwise, my tanks slushed with the Aircraft Automotive Slushing Compound work fine. I love Aircraft Spruce!

I bought their prototypes when they were doing development work on them, and even those are fine. The production pieces are better, and have proper brackets. But I'm cheap. Hey, I got mine for $5 at the 'scratch and dent sale' so I'm not complaining. For the cost I paid, I could rate them 'outstanding'...LOL

I will go to hell if I contribute to this post... Make sure as stated above your exhaust isn't isolated (rubber hangers...) form vehicle ground, and the flame coil ground. Then make sure you have enough raw fuel to ignite. It's not as easy as it sounds if you aren't injecting it directly into the pipe raw through a mist injector. If you had Megasquirt or a standalone it would be VERY easy to get 'decel enrichment' to a point where you had PLENTY of gas. Normally, these show units use the raw-gas-injection method for reliable flamage, and you simply use engine exhaust as a preheater and motive force to shoot the flames out the tailpipe, not as the source of the combustible material itself. Good Luck. Post photos when you get it flaming! Let it never be said I didn't assist when a good flaming was needed!!! LOL

Biggest one (7/16") is pickup, the one next to it that is 5/16" -- return, and anything else is a vent, most likely 1/4"