Tony D

I second that suggestion: Line up the big AMP connector from the ECU, and pull the harness INTO the ENGINE BAY, not the other way 'round! Far easier, and the AMP connector will fit nicely through the hole. Go to your local home depot, and find a stanless steel "Conduit knockout plug" lay a small bead of hi-temp red silicone around the outside edge, and stick it in the hole---plugged sanitarily, and FIRESAFE!

You've never had real Nissan OEM headlight covers, have you? One popular Aftermarket fix for racing teams with Headlight Covers involved using a loop of copper tubing from the engine coolant system in the headlight buckets to keep them from fogging. If you think the OEM Covers were somehow hermetically sealed and impervious to fogging...well, I have this Bridge in Brooklyn to sell you...

Hmmmmmm, just like real lead, except without the panel-warping heat! Ever wonder what "body files" were made for: Filing lead filler. Now you can use files to fill a synthetic metal-based filler. The more things change, the more they stay the same!

This is the place for factual information. How can a typed phrase "sound" one way or another. People need to be a bit more thick-skinned when putting information up on a forum where they WILL be called by someone with more knowledge, experience, or access. It happens to me, it happens to everybody. Facts are facts, and nothing more. It's like becomeing upset over statistics. It makes no sense. What would a PM accomplish if the person informed did not change the original statement. Try as you would, you can't make someone who was informed of a factual inaccuracy change something they posted---but by making a post, at least others will see it and can weigh the differences for themselves. Apparently this statement has been done before, so I appreciate a note that it's different. It's no skin off my nose either way, I hadn't seen the other post regarding A-Speed, but it's good to see that there is a difference between the photo and the A-Speed Parts. It's not a pedigree, it's a functional or structural difference. "Looks Like" is one thing, "IS" can be something totally different--not referring to pedigree, but solely to functionality. I would prefer factual information any day over opinion or misrepresentation. How it's presented makes little difference to me. If someone chooses to be offended by someone pointing out a fact, then they are closing their eyes to that fact IMO...and what good does that do?

Alza Paint... Having seen that "Chrome Mercedes" in person, that Alza Chrome paint works wonders. Thought it's not cheap! Vacuum Chrome Metalizing works just fine on any sort of plastic.

Oh, I just saw that. You missed the DZA meeting last week. I'm existing at the Candlewood Suites at Baseline and Priest, lo these last two weeks... Mack voices a practical plan! Nothing to do all day today... and now the sun is setting >:^(

Do like I did: Convert everything to the L28 Collar and Pressure Plate. I use the 240 parts as hand-me-downs to the kid and his L20B 510. He has a stack of clutches and parts....They seem to last forever in the 510...LOL It is as Jmortensen says: CLtcuh Cover and Collar must match.

Yes, that polycarbonate film is WONDERFUL STUFF! They say it will stop a .177 pellet shot at the light. Haven't tried it (shooting them) yet, but really should, just to play "Mythbuster" and sate my curiosity! LOL I wish it was available when I had the previously mentioned "Prestige" lighting in some of my vehicles. I have had, over time, Z-Beams as well as the Hellas, and both succumbed to road debris eventually. The capsule burned on, but the hole in the houaing was a bit tacky, and drew attention of "the light police".... After finding "the alternative" I haven't gone back. Right now I am considering a true two-beam H4 Replacement unit that is HID... They only draw 35 watts (like on the early S30 Stock Lights) but light up seemingly like my 80/100's do currently! And with proper H4 Euro Light Dispersion (unlike some of the 'generic' HID kits). These I'm checking out have E-Code Approval, meaning the TUV has checked them for stuff. I am big (since meeting John) on buying stuff with some sort of approval---at least it means someone did some cursory testing at least. I mean, I get obscure on some stuff, but the stuff about lighting can get really out there! LOL All said and done, I much prefer the E-Code light dispersion rules. And lament that California can (will) nail people with E-Code lights in their vehicles...unlike Michigan where you can run the E-Codes (as the state police did for years!) My first E-Codes were Hellas running 130 Watt Highs, and 100 Watt Lows back in 1979 driving the rural roads of Michigan. Everybody slowed down when I was oncoming because outside of me, the only other people with "The blue-white light you can see miles off" was the Michigan State Police in those Impalas!

Wait till the 2007 Legacy Turbo Differential (Helical ATB R-200) becomes available in the wrecking yards... That would be nice if they stuck with the 27 spline input. That would make my conversion easier...

That is the section of the CVC (CALIFORNIA Vehicle Code) that applies to rearward vision. It's not the Florida Statute. As I said, though, in California there is no requirement for a rear window, or internal rearview mirror, if you have two mirrors facing rearward, and since most vehicles do have two external mirrors these days, no internal rearview is required... It is common for people to paint the back windows an opaque color to keep the sun out and let the A/C have an easier time of it. Lots of heat comes in that way! I would think that Florida being different than California could be easily assumed. The post was directed at the statement that 'it was pretty much illegal everywhere'---which was not correct, and an example given as to why was proffered by me in California's Case. I could do so for Michigan as well, but the "Delivery Van" and "Panel Van" examples did that just as handily. The California V.C. is posted online at the http://www.ca.gov website. I might think Florida's may be as well...who knows?

May sound sacreligious, but why get hung up on METAL rings? Why not simply have an injection moulder do a set in palstic that you have vapor-chromed. Looks will the identical (you don't really torque the hell out of them anyway to get them ot fit), and cost and reproduction would be much cheaper. Replacements are a few $$$ Away afterwards. I mean, millions upon millions of chrome grilles are produced for Ford/Nissan/Dodge/Chevy/TRUCKS, and there is no real downside to the plastic on the front of the vehicle... I have a set of the rings, and a RIGHT cover (or was it left...) whatever side I didn't hit, that's the cover that is still intact. The covers will break if you hit something concrete, though the ring seems to survive with minor tweakage...

Gingivitis, death? Hardly. Ingestion of lead leads to retardation in children, and insanity in adults... There was a nice TV program one sunny day that had Larry Csonka in a tank cleaning it up (painter)---well, lead based paint, years of exposure, finally built up to a level where mr All Star had become quite agitated. Trick was to "talk him out" of the tank without anybody getting hurt. I digress... Primary problem with leading any Japanese Car from the 70's is thin metal! The stuff on the fenders and unitbody is so thin it tends to WARP like CRAZY when heated with a torch to tin the body and melt the sticks. The car was designed with polyester filler in mind for body repairs. There is nothing wrong with using it. Metal-to-Metal sounds like a nice product to use if you don't want microbaloons in the polyester/epoxy matrix of your filler to absorb water. I would stay away from the fantasy of "Leading" anything on the Z. Most all of the soldered joints on the car were hidden from view, and any that weren't were covered with polyester based filler before topcoating (the cracking "C" Pillar comes to mind). Lead is not a panacea, anything bad that can happen with Bondo, can happen with lead. Period. It's just that it's MUCH more difficult to apply the lead, and 10X so on thin sheetmetal. This would include, for example, the sheetmetal on a 1977 Thunderbird Coupe---body class project that the owner insisted on having lead used because 'it was the right way to do it' and the instructor cursed the whole time applying it saying over and over 'this isn't a g**d**n 58 Caddy, it's a 77POS and this g**d**n sheetmetal is f*****g too g**d**n thin for this leading!' Ahhh, the days when the teacher could have a half smouldering stogie hanging out the side of his mouth (to light the torch, don't you know?) and actually not worry about P.C.B.S.... The one notable exception to leading 70's vehicles is the Air Cooled VW's. They were designed in the 30's, and basically had sheetmetal 2X as thick as needed to do anything it was required to do. My 62 Bus took to lead like nobody's business, but the instructor said that that sheetmetal was about as thin as you want to try to do any big lead repairs upon... Learned a lot in that class. You can do it, but the question is, "is it worth it?" In a sports car, where weight is a factor supposedly... You decide!

With the 145mm L20B rods and a tight ring stack (27 or 30mm pin height can't remember) and that slight offset grind compensating for the bore increase, the R/s is over 2.1 in our LSR car... But as stated earlier, the early L20A rods are the same rods as in the other L-engines, there is no '128' length rod made specially for the L20A. It's the same as comparable L24 rods. The L28 went short at 130mm. It's academic really, you will be getting custom pistons, put whatever pin height you require after measuring the components yourself! Nothing is fixed, crank can be offset ground a mm or so to play one way or the other...you can use the later rods with the smaller crank end journal size for even more movement of the stroke, and then finally pin height is adjustable within reason. Our tight ring stack probably isn't the best for a street engine (thin rings).

You know, you can drive the one hour to Buffalo and pick it up there, as well. Normally, I'm in Buffalo for training this month... I could bring a case in the trunk over and would meet you somewhere on the QEW where we would illicitly exchange US Naval Jelly for Canadian Coffee Crisps... I thought my last case would last longer than it did. Same for the Nestle Kit Kats as well... Damn, next time I'm picking up TWO cases of each at the Costco off exit 41... LOL Alas, I'm not scheduled for training this month. Probably going to be in Shanghai instead. BTW, The Naval Jelly is usually in the "Paint Section" at HD and Lowes by my house. It is a Loctite Product, most industrial hardware stores will have this, Motion Industries usually is a vendor for Loctite/Permatex products. Kaman Industrial is another. Sorry, not a lot of exposure in that area to the stores... other than Costco, for the all-important Coffee Crisps. Did I mention I like Coffee Crisps?

yes, they were standard in the japan market from day one to at least 1988...

Yeh... Bad shape carbs is a poor starting point for any project. Many times people say this setup or that is "so much better than SU's" but fail to even consider their setup was far from optimal in the first place. Hell, even with good SU's people rarely take the time to tune them correctly for modifications to other parts of the engine. People say they are "simple carburettors" but have never retapered a needle or checked metering stations under load.... eeh! Never again. LOL For the flow increase you get by removing the carburetted restriction and running a straight through 50mm bore, EFI conversion of the carb system makes for a tantalizing prospect. It's suprisingly easier than most think if you aren't a stickler for making something look "extremely stock" though with a bit of effort 'hiding' EFI in an SU setup only takes a bit of work. I saved that photo of the Triple Setup, it looks like stuff I end up with... people walk by and don't give it a second glance because it's "another stock engine"...it's the one guy in 100 that walks by, then does a double take and says "niiiice!" is it's own reward!

Look for an L20ET manifold from a Cedric, Gloria, Leopard, or any other JDM 2-Liter L-Turbo Car from the mid 80's. The L20ET manifold is functionally identical to the L28ET manifold sold in the US Markets. You should have no problems finding one of those locally. Failing that, I can ship something to you surface, but like the seller said...it will take forever. Australia Post is horrendous! Even for regular first-class mail.

Can't get diluted Phosphoric Acid in Canada? That is what the active ingredient in Naval Jelly is....and it's why Coke disolves rust as well as it does. Deluging your car in Coke isn't a good idea, though!

I'm gonna tell ya that ad is downright false advertising! "Street Legal" My hind end! The lens has NEITHER the DOT-Required aiming device tabs, NOR the E-4 symbol signifying European Compliance. So "Street Legal" means someplace like Bangladesh, or similar. I have some Autopal "MSR" Headlights, which look similar to those advertised EXCEPT they actually have E-Code Compliance (beam pattern much like the Hellas). They were gotten from John at http://www.h4lights.com. He deals with Z-Car guys, and sells through the classifieds at ZC.C I believe. For a cost not much more than the "total cost" of that last sale linked above. John will give you good information for lighting, and he's also a Hella Distributor. If you want to pay as much for a single housing as you will for a pair of loaded Autopals that are functionally exactly the same, have at it. For my money, one stone in a Hella makes my cry. A stone in an Autopal makes me laugh, cheap to replace. Decision is yours. Like John says "Buy the best lighting you can afford!"

You're quoted... And nope, no requirement for a rear window in California. None whatsoever. Check it out in the CVC, I didn't believe it, either!

Like I said in my post I have not seen a set yet that worked correctly---obviously, we have never met. So that doesn't change my post's correctness. I don't see it as any sort of 'p-contest'... But make no mistake, there is far more to changing jets and needles to make a triple 46mm setup work correctly. Springs on the suction domes come immediately to mind... I never said they couldn't be made to work. Just that I hadn't seen one setup that correctly functioned yet. Maybe one day I'll see yours... For the effort involved, though...C-B-A comes into my mind.

Why do you want higher oil pressure? It absorbs horsepower, adds heat to the oil, and really doesn't benefit you at all. 10psi per-1000rpms was the golden rule for most applications, and they are going lower than that now... Upgraded oil pump is the Turbo-Automatic Pump, or that same unit from Melling (in cast-iron)---but these aren't Chevys, "upgrading" is not really required.

So Cal? Where? If you want, you can come over and measure my Fairlady 280Z, it's still sporting the original wing mirrors. I can measure them when I get home from Phoneix some time next week. I'm only about 30 miles from Chino (215S and Van Buren-Moreno Valley, S of the 60)

Reeeeeeeeeeallly.... I may have to stop by when next in town...

PM Sent. We use the L20B rod in the LSR car if memory serves. 145.5 mm I believe. Overbored .020" to clean up rusty bores, and then destroked accordingly to keep us within the 1998cc original stock capacity.