Tony D

My meter has no seal on it. They forgot. They left 6 seals laying on the top of the panel...they disapeared. Did I mention I have a lead seal crimper? I pull my meter on a regular basis because of some stuff I have to do with the busbars in the service panel separate from my house. The service to that panel is 250A, but each branch circuit is less, house, shop, shed. Connecting the main feeds to each requires I pull the meter. I like a totally dead circuit when doing those busbar kind of connections. I might go with a DRYER outlet backfeeding the house with the service disconnect breaker in the panel being opened. With appropriate S/O 4 Cord. But I would not backfeed 110 to a 15A plug. No way, no how!

You should enter it in the ECTA Street Classes at Maxton. A LOT closer, and you can get a lot of the Technical Qualifications, License Requirements, and handling quirks ironed out there. Same classes at Bonneville run at Maxton (NC). Not that far a drive from VA. Head down the interstate, make a right at Lumberton, and just before you get to Laurinburgh NC, exit by the airport. If you haven't run up at Bonneville before, do a lot of your preliminaries locally---you will go a lot faster, and things will go much smoother that way. Sucks to drive 2800 miles and then get hosed on a $300 entry fee because of some technical issue that could have been found under repeated scruitineering at local events for a couple of years beforehand. The days of "Burt Munroe" are long past due to liability and the speeds reached. Good Luck on the project---give your timeframe, our ZXT project should be up there around the same time. But first these 2 Liter N/A records have to fall.... LOL

Like Steve Allen on "To tell the Truth", I had to withdraw myself from the competition because of familiarity with the subject matter. The three pages were better than an answer right off anyway. I'm glad someone WAG'd it and finally got it! To be honest I was looking back becasue I wanted to spoil it after 24 hours or so anyway...LOL!

He he he...1979. But doesn't everyone know "The Fast and the Furious" started the "Turbo Nawws Import Trend"! LOL I have a Crown Setup... Same deal, but with an SU. Though I did pick up and 4-BBL Adapter.

I keep telling you guys! I was working when I was notified of it, I have everything needed to make that a runner, but I just want the bits! LOL 3 hours drive from me. Darn. Cheaper than my last 83 ZXT 2+2...which was $475, but that was delivered to my door.

ohhhhhhh, not necessarily... I had to wait a while, but I got mine for less than that. They originally listed on E-Bay for $700! So as you can figure, I had to take the SDS the PO mated them with to get the ITB's (HKS units from the time of Wangan Midnight...) so it was more than 700, but less than 2500. They show up from time to time. You can also gut the carbs and use them as ITB's, using the crossbar as the mounting source for the TPS on the EFI system...

Send that information to me... Also, send that manifold to me, I can put it on one of the Fairlady Z's I have already (and always have room for one more Fairlady!) Actually, now that I'm thinking about it, greenmonster is sourcing the inlet for my HKS Type 2 Surge Tank, and this manifold would make for an interesting "period piece" installation in my 75 Fairlady Z. Maybe I could paint it blue and get one of those old Trust 125mm S30 Exhaust Systems.... Anybody got some old Speed Shop Sinohara (SSS) decals laying around?????

Watch you Wangan Closer. After the first revelation, the car sprouts ITB's and Additional Injectors. The Triple Carbs were only in the very first portion of the Series. It was converted very quickly (if you watch closely) later on to running EFI with ITB's (TWM Style Weber Compatible Throttle Bodies)

You mean a 240mm Ford CLutch Disc doesn't work getting squeezed between a 240mm Nissan Clutch and Cover? Or putting a Ford Spline into a Datsun Center Section is impossible? This is HybridZ, let's not get World-Clasist! (bad pun) What is the problem with the input shaft---is it too long? As I know the Tremec TKO had a different bushing size, and Ford Spline, but hey, that was a quick bit of work with the lathe, and requesting the clutch people to give it up for a Datsun Disc with a Ford Spline in the center. Now welding the ears on the T5 Bellhousing to mate with the TKO Mounting Ears was probably a bit over the top for most people... but if the input shaft was say 1" too long, a 1" spacer between the bellhousing and Tranny would take that into account to make it work (and is easier than welding damn ears on a bellhousing to boot!), soooo... As long as the input shaft splines are in the same general area as the disc (bellhousing depth) it's fairly easy to make the little things work. Anything out back is standard swap kind of fabrication. So I'm curious, what exactly makes the WC T5 incompatible? Personally I think the G-Force Retrofit is the way to go, but what is the deal on the WCT5?

When do you plan on going to the Salt? We should coordinate and share pit space. You planning on running MS (Modified Sports) class with the S30 Coupe? Yeah, as above, the ZBoy post on ZC.C has a bunch of HP/Speed Comparos. 385 or thereabouts sounds right for a non-G-Nosed car at that speed.

WOAH! Guys, do NOT plug a cable into the house outlet and backfeed the grid... I would say listen to Buzz. This is the way I ran my house for a week while waiting for a service connect. What you can do to be safe (extra safe) is to remove your power meter. It pulls out, if you have no power, what's the diff, right? Anyway, you pull that meter, and you will not backfeed the grid no matter what you do in your own box. Like Buzz said, you can easily hook up to either the main breaker that powers the buss bars, or wire back through an unused breaker. You could go pick up a 20A 220V breaker, wire to it, and install it in a 220 opening in the breaker box, and simply trip the service disconnect breaker at the box to isolate from the grid. To go back on the grid, you will simply power down everything in the house, shut down the generator, and disconnect your breaker (either the one you installed, or wherever you hooked the generator...) Then restore the cover, flip your service disconnect back on, and you are set. If you leave a spare 20A 220V breaker in there, and leave your SO4 cord attached, but with the breaker tripped off, you are just a plug-in and generator fire up away from repowering your house (after the main service disconnect is pulled). Those transfer switches are the "proper" way to do it, but I've had a 50A SO4 cord attached to my box since 1997...when I first hooked it up! If the power goes out, I pull out the generator, plug it in, and fire it up. Flip, tug, flip, and I am the only one in my neighborhood with power! With the same caveats as Buzz mentions. I would NEVER run power back through a normal house outlet. Bad Idea IMO.

Ohhhhh, that Nismo Gauge Cluster will make JeffP unsettled. Though he seems to like the stepper-motor tachometer...

Just an Aside... I had picked up one of our "Electromotive" O2 sensors. It was an NTK, but the part number had been "knurled" so as to make the number illegible. Well, there was one in our box that was not so illegible. Now I had always assumed (insert your appropriate comment here about assuming things) that this was the expensive NTK unit, since the "value Added" dealer was selling them as such. The P/N on the body I found was NTK 56027916... Suprise, Suprise, Suprise! It corssreferenced for a DODGE TRUCK, and is available from several sources with an upper end price range around $102.43. I am thinking the "Value Added" dude was crimping his own connections on Dodge sensors to cut costs... my paranoia aside, this may be another alternative for standard sensors for the TEC2 that should be identical to the ones supplied by the "Value Added Dealers". For what it's worth.... And oh yeah, "Bump"! LOL

Ohh, nice Bicentennial Michigan Plates! I have a set of those on my 62 VW Microbus! LOL

The cross sectional area of the throttle plates in that manifold is slightly larger than the stock 50mm single butterfly---if it's from an L28. If it's from an L20A, then the size is considerably smaller. The small throttle plate (about the size of a Nickel if it's an L28 model, about the size of a dime if the L20A model...) will give very nice tip-in response and throttle modulation in partia throttle situations below 3500rpm. Basically you will run on the primary plate with a nice high manifold vacuum level at most cruise speeds, the primary plate throttling range is about 3/4 of total throttle pedal travel, the last 1/4 of the throttle pedal travel is when the larger bore plate goes from fully closed to fully open. Nice for passing on the highway. Also note that this is an odd manifold----in that it used the vacuum idle speed control like the ECCS on the turbos. On the Z-Car Manifolds, this was accomplished by stepper-motor control, and not a vacuum analog signal. Also note that there is no provision for a cold-start valve---the NAPS system was a hybrid cross between EFI and ECCS systems Nissan used here in the USA, they batch fired the injectors for startup, and then used injector pulsewidth for cold start enruchment instead of the single injector. This manifold was form a Cedric, Gloria, or other large car, they did not use this manifold on the Z-Car, only in the larger passenger sedans. Neat to look at, a conversation piece, but not anything performance oriented. They do make nice daily drivers, though, with that littel throttle plate.

This is why industrial customers usually knuckle under to Hartford Steam Boiler Company (insuracne company) when they demand annual Infra-Red testing of all MCC panels and Switchgear. Had anyone shot a simple infra-red photo of the switchgear, loose and corroded connections show up with PLENTY of warning. I deal with this on Centrifugal Compressors all the time, power sag on one leg causing a compressor overamp trip because of low power input. Shut down a process that costs a customer $1,000,000 an hour because they drop air pressure, and all of a sudden the I-R Photography becomes cheap insurance indeed. There are plenty of Companies locally that can provide this service. BEST (Blivens Energy Scanning Techniques) is one out of Long Beach. I have dealt with them since 1989, and the owner is a really good guy. If you are flexible on when they come by, they can shoot or scan your panels pretty cheap. Especially if you are in the area of a bigger company getting something done. Even shooting the connections with a good I-R Temp gun can show the loose connections. But when you see the I-R Photo, it becomes obvious where your problems are.

"Rings are Fine" is not how I would phrase those results. The numbers are fine for a street engine, but given the raise in compression when wet, that would normally indicate wear on the rings, or the piston ring lands causeing excessive blowby. I would be wary of someone saying Nissan Bores are "Worn"... is this engineer familiar with te Nissan L at all? The reason I'm asking, and you can verify this all over, is that even in racing applications it's far more common to deglaze and re-ring than to EVER have to rebore the block. "BIG SAM" the "samuri" campaigned in the UK is a well know "Commonwealth Example"---magazine articles of the day were amazed that even after thousands of racing miles, the most the car ever required was a de-glaze and re-ring. Of course, doing machine work will raise internal profits, through outsourcing the job and makring up discounted labour....but that is a different story... In itself, for a racing engine, reboring is usually done for displacement increase....and that is fine. But barring something like what happened in our Bonneville Engine (the gudgeon pins worked free on the pin end, and scored every bore 0.080"!!! Every machinist said "never seen that before") the most I have ever seen was a need for a deglaze and re-ring. Choice of pistons is up to you. Forged will give you an RPM limit over 7000 for extended periods. More RPM will equate to more HP if set up properly. So think about your options carefully. If you price the difference between new pistons in cast or forged....... Long term for high rpm use, I'd presonally go with forged....... the decision becomes difficult. Putting in new cast pistons on a unbored, but re-honed bore... Putting in Oversized pistons on a rebored oversize bore... Either way, rings will be needed. From what I have experienced, a wet test increas that little is usually tired rings on a Nissan, not a bore out of tolerance. Good Luck. Cheers!

"Worn Bores" That's a first! Usually the rings will wear before the bores will even be worn to the high end of acceptable NEW tolerance. Low compression in one of these engines is more an function of worn/weak rings, or leaking valves. New pistons on a racer is a good bit of insurance nonetheless, but I would be suspect of "worn bores" based only on low compression. Chances are it only needs new rings and a deglaze of the walls, not an oversize boring. I'd look a bit closer at the options, unless you are looking for an increase in displacement for those reasons...

Yesss.... The "discussions" at zc.c.... Er... Anyway, on the discussion of the Kammback design, take close notice of the S130's rear roofline. There is a little trip line to interrupt the flow over the hatch---resulting in less lift compared to the S30. There are some who have argued with me that "such a little thing can't have that much effect" but indeed with the smoke tests published by Nissan, you can see the flow effect of that little dip just before the hatch upper seam. A Small device at the rear of the S30 would probably achieve similar effects of lift reduction without the imposition of a drag inducing spoiler. Dirty the flow off the back of the roof, and the lift is effectively lessened. I know when we got our first record at ElMirage, the car ran almost back-to-back runs of 140 and then 143 mph. The wind was nil, and the temperature was higher on the second run, but other than that the only difference was removal of the smaller style BRE Spolier off the hatch. The car did have traction problems above 100mph, and ultimately adding about 200# of lead shot over the rear axle got us another 10mph due to increased traction! So my estimation is that the BRE Spolier should show 200-300# of downforce on the rear axle, at the expense of drag, at a speed between 135 and 145mph. This tunnel testing will stop estimations of what is observed, and quantify it once and for all. But with just this little test, one could see wether adding a "dip" to the back of an S30 Roof would achieve similar gains as adding a spoiler, without the drag penalty. I can't do it, but you can be darned sure that I'd put such a modification on my turbo street car! I digress! LOL Off to the Group Z meeting, I will pimp the effort, and try to drum up some more donors! Glad I made it home in time for the meeting and resultant whoring of the effort to the membership! LOL

The Cd effects and top speed effects of the G-Nose are pretty well known. (top speed increases from 200 to 215kph for example...) We don't need to test what we already know works. What we need to test are the imponderables of years of marketing hype have made us think this part is aero or that part is aero... Knowing in the back of our minds full well that they most likely didn't ever test squat! Now, On G-Noses what is not known is the effect of the KNOCKOFF G-Noses. I have seen good ones (Japanese) and very poor ones (Most North American Produced Crap...). The five piece pictured on the body thread is a very near replica of the stock G-Nose, and has the proper tray to the radiator. But many of the knockoff G-Noses use shorter trays because they are one-piece, and the shorter apron makes it easier to pop out of the mold. The aero effects of diffusers within the G-Nose opening, Closing up of the G-Nose opening, lack of the proper apron compared to a properly reproduced G-nose, that popular JDM "Spook Spolier" on the front of a G-Nose... That could be a day in itself, but it's a moot point. The way to make it work like a stock Nissan Nose is to make the apron go to the lower radiator bulkhead and seal properly. Then at least even the cheap noses will give the same aero properties as the more expensive units. What will be interesting to see is if there is a combination of flow alterations people can make to give a near or similar effect as a G-Nose without the high cost. Though I do agree, the 'with or without headlight covers' is a basic test that should prove interesting. I actually have an old, complete one-piece Japanese G-Nose laying around, unfortunately it's got broken mounting tabs... No time to fix >:^(

That car came to LA in 2004 for the convention. There is more modified on that car than the wheels/hubs! RB25 Conversion, Defigauge Dash Retrofit, on and on! Very nice car. I had photos of it on my Yahoo Photos Page, I can go back and make that album public again, but I don't know how easy it is for others to access it from outside Yahoo.

I doubt it will liftoff at 185, in 1989 there was an S30 that went that fast at Bonneville I believe they went 188mph.... Yeah, if you search the Archives at ZC.C, the Hybrid77/TKR514 threads are extremely negative. Rarely helpful, usually just sarcastic pokes at people asking questions. I may be an a$$hole, but jeeeeeez, at least I spend tiime in the Tech section trying to do my pennance for what happens over in the Car Talk Section! LOL Mmmmm, Overtime this Sunday. More money to come I suspect. What was that that Peter Sellers said (or was it Alec Guiness?) in "The Ladykillers"? "Just a pfenning from each policy holder, Ma'am. Nobody will miss one pfenning, will they?" Probably not the thought that .53 cent comment was meant to elicit above, but it's the first thing I thought of when I read it... Probably best _not_ to make that particular persuasive argument for raising funds... LOL

Little anecdotal quip herre, if "Strength of the Struts" is an issue with you (it seems to be making you hesitate, so this story should help). Mike M. from ZC.C came out to my place to pick up an 82 ZXT (Five Speed)that I was storing for him after buying it in a private sale. While driving through Oklahoma he hit black ice. Now, he was towing the 82 ZXT with a KA24 Powered Five Speed 2001 Frontier. Er.... Yeah----what's the Nissan Towing Recomendation with that setup...like 1500#??? Anyway, the truck was in cruise, and when he hit the black ice, he semi-jacknifed the whole rig, the ZXT pushing the rear of his truck along on the ice, as he headed for the shoulder. The side of the cab took out mile marker 88 on I40, and when the right rear wheel hit the jagged nub of the sign, it blew the tire, making the rim DIG into the shoulder, starting the truck in a FLIP. The Towbar, connected with ONE bolt through each bumper strut, was PULLED OVER ON IT'S SIDE as both the truck and 82 ZXT flipped up onto the passenger's side, and slid along the wet grass for a distance. When the tow truck arrived, they uncoupled the two vehicles by unhooking to towbar from the ball, dragged the truck clear so nothing would hit, and pushed them back over wheels-down "upright", the ZXT suprisingly not messed up on the side it was sliding upon, but the "pull up point" was a little deformed... They reconnected the vehicles, and he continued towing back to the far end of Kentucky, same towbar. Then he UPS'd my towbar back.... I have towed at least three mover vehicles with the same towbar since. It's a trooper! Those struts are TOUGH. If you have one 1/2" (12mm) bolt through the strut assembly I doubt HIGHLY you will shear it. And from the above example, you can see those towbars WILL HEAVE a car over by their bumper struts! That seems to me to be a "decent and acceptable" torture test. BTW, that towbar folds flat, and will fit in a space 8X8X36" (maybe)...will that fit in the typical USMC Footlocker? LOL Anyway, I know it fits under the back seat of my F250SD Cab-and-a-Half. Just in case you are iffy on what the combination will actually do in an accident... I had bitchen celphone photos Mike sent me that evening, just no way to transfer them! Thinking about it, SECOND ANECDOTAL STORY: When packing up the 280's for Frank280ZX's Sea Container, we hooked the chains through the holes in the struts, and lifted the cars up into the Sea Container by the bumper struts. We actually suspended the cars weight dangling by them for some time while figuring out what to do next. Eventually we suspended som cars from the struts with chains to the sidewalls from the bumper struts, and used the "tiedown points" on the body for crosschaining to keep sway under control. This went over-the-road from my place to Long Beach, then onboard a ship, through the Panama Canal, and to Amsterdam... Parts are well engineered, just don't tow with Junk. I am very happy with the Valley Towbar I bought back in 95... It was actually cheaper than the Tow Dolly from U-Haul at the time...which is why I bought it!

I've (as well as several others) towed transcontinental with that towbar flat towing a Z without any issues of transmission damage. The only vehicle which I remove the driveshaft is an Automatic. Backing a standard shift car onto a tow dolly is a bit overkill, and when it's on the dolly, you do have plenty of clearance to remove the driveshaft from the pumpkin, so no harm no foul there. I simply start the car at every other gasoline stop, start the car, and let the engine churn up the tranny to re-oil everything inside. And if you knew how fast I towed my 73Z back from the Denver Convetion, you would realize the 35mph maximum speed for towing is also a bunch of lawyerbabble covering liability in our wonderful litigious society!

"Consider Enough Time Being Given" Bring the Distributor Frank! And that 260 Tail Light and the pump.....hell just mail it, those idiots in TSA will probably just rip it off again if you take it in checked baggage... Er, if you fly through Newark, that is... I actually have a scope, and nice 100ms four channel unit that JeffP gave me. It worked better before he threw it about 25 feet in a fit of Moosehead-Induced rage when we were probing the COM port issue three years ago... What can I say? I'm hard headed. I just didn't have the luxury of "substitution" to black-and-white eliminate the box as an issue (same problem when the Laptop was the issue. We got it working fine with JeffP's Win98 Laptop, but not mine... Remember those posts?) I do have an SDS sitting out back, but it would only work on N/A engines. I haven't pursued that option and don't even know if it's upgradeable to Turbo Specification. I could try the Electramotive TEC box we had in the Bonneville Car... I think that is configurable for boost. Hmmmmmmm TEC2... No! I'm going to remain Hard-Headed and get this damn thing working. unless my wife really starts hounding me, then I will succumb and probably throw in some Z31 MAF component cast-offs from Jeff's Garage Floor... LOL