Tony D

GT-240, have you considered removing the venturis from your existing carbs, and using them as throttle bodies? Install the Injectors in your intake manifold with some screw-in bungs, and you got something that definately looks old-school, but has EFI! Megasquirt would be ideal for this setup, basically you replumb for EFI just like any other MS Conversion. Me, I got some tasty Old-School HKS ITB's and that HKS Surge Tank waiting to supplant my Mikuinis... Whenever I get the time. My Blowthrough turbo has been slated to be EFI upgraded for many years...in the interim it's "been resting" LOL!

It wasn't Arnold that did it, it was the air quality orginization. Mountjoy from Arcadia (ran against Feinstein this round of elections for her senate seat) tried to get the old BAR90 put into the State Constitution, it passed all Federal Mandates, but one, and that was a simple fix. The reason he wanted it into the constitution was that to change the smog system, you would need a 2/3 vote of THE PEOPLE, instead of some unaccountable, appointed board. People, instead of whinging about this kind of stuff, GET INVOLVED! If it wasn't for SEMA doing HEAVY lobbying on automotive aftermarket manufacturers' behalf, the 30 year exemption would have been eliminated PERIOD! There is now a 35 year rolling exemption of the VISUAL testing criteria, but only for specific vehicles---read the laws and find out what those are, I'm not spooning this out. The more people that READ the laws, the more people who will realize when BS is being dished out. Want to REALLY change the SMOG system, call your local repressentative, and cry holy hell to get them to STOP THE MNUNICIPAL AND STATE EXEMPTION for those vehicles. Cop Cars, Busses, those ratty 1951 Water District Stepsides.... They all are EXEMPT from being tested. Do you realize how many state and local municipal vehicles there are? Want to know the logic behind 'exempting' them from the smog system? "It puts an undue financial burden upon municipalities operating large fleets of vehicles to comply with the states SMOG law." Excuse me, but if it's required for the PEOPLE, it should be required of EVERYONE! If they can't comply with the SMOG system requirements, and their fleets of vehicles start getting red-tagged and Joe Detective can't drive his cruiser home every night....how long do you tink the laws will remain as insane as they have been? I digress...

An aluminum V8 like from a Q45 or Titan....Muahahahahaha!

Webcams is about 5 minutes from my house... he he he! You can swap cam towers, you just have to take measures to get them lined up without a bind. There are various methods from simple to complex, but most commonly it involves snugging them incrementally and nudging them with a mallet one way or the other till the cam in unbound, and then continuing while rotating the cam to determine how it's going. Paeco in Birmingham would take any set of cam towers, and put them on any head. They also would bush the towers if there was a lube failure to the top end, and with the bushings they were done undersize, and then line-bored same as you would do like a crankshaft. I have occasionally done the "Odd man out" cam tower swap from parts in a bucket.... If it didn't work (started binding) went and got another one and tried it till I found one that worked. People put a bit too much emphasis on stuff sometimes. If it works, it works. That's the end of the discussion in my book. Sure, you can weld every cam tower undersize and line bore them on the head, that would be what a "machinst" would recommend, but in my experience, machinists make very poor mechanics---they tend to overwork items that have nothing wrong with them, and make very simple problems have exceedingly complex solutions. People have been switching cam towers on L-Engines since their introduction in the 60's. Usually it happens as a set. If someone thinks L-Heads never have the cam towers removed, think about a proper head resurfacing entails: EQUAL amounts of material taken off the gasket AND the Top Surface of the head (warpage on the bottom will transfer to the top, and if you DON'T remove the top metal, you run the risk of the cam towers going out of alignment and putting the cam in a bind once up to operating temperature! Then there were those Iron-Headed L-4's, and the Iron Cam Towers with Bushings... But that story is for another day. I am in agreement with the "go bigger"---the ONLY reason the L26 Cam (hell, really if you want the "best" stock cam, check out the early carbbed L20A!) is so popular is that the aforementioned L20A Dual Carbbed Cam is NLA, and people running ITS or other restricted "Stock" Racing Classes need every advantage they can get, and that little bit, added with another little bit, added to another little bit, makes the competitive edge they want. Bigger cam is easier.

Big Stretch, but if you want, I can will call them, or you can have them sent to my place, and I can forward them. McMaster's L.A. warehouse is only about 35 miles from my house, and I go by there on a regular basis whilst in town. Maybe pisk up another set just in case I bid on that one on e-bay currently (forewarned is forearmed!) I have forwarded stuff for people in the past before, how much can it be to ship some Bellville washers to NZ? I lost track of this thread, here it is! LOL

yes, use a pipe extractor to remove fitting in the block, and the adapter screws right on---just like on the Euro Cars.

That is only a partial reading of the smog laws regarding vehicles and what kind of exemptions they are entailed to. A more thorough reading the the laws will uncover some 35 year rolling exemptions from VISUAL checks. You still have to pass the sniffer, but that's easy enough for a one-eyed retard on mescaline. The VISUAL component is the killer, and there will be vehicles that are specifically exempted from visual inspections on a 35 year rolling exemption. Right now it covers 1973-older, in 2007 it will cover 74-older. In time, yes the 76 can be exempted from the visual inspection, but it's up to you to figure out which hoops you will have to jump through...

"Well, honey, I made the jump, I'm on Salary now..." Guys, GIVE IT A TRY! It really works! LOL

"Seriously officer, we are engineering students working on a term paper!" yeah, that one always worked to stave off the citation! LOL

Yes, I'm good for three seconds in most any car when riding at an Auto X... So I could probably cut 160# off the car by going on a real Jared Style Subway Regimen. Or I could simply turn up the boost 5 pounds and make up for it in about 15 seconds. Decisions decisions, which course will I take. Mmmmm, Coffee Crisp, my decision is made! LOL F1 drivers come from europe and third world countries, remember those childhood admonitions: people in Brazil are starving, clean your plate. Case closed, they simply are picking them up in a state of emaciation. BTW, it's not Fat in my case, it's Bloat from Malnutrition...

Those of you who work hourly jobs, just have the boss send that overtime to another account, and she won't miss chunks larger than that! My wife is cheap, especially at weddings. If she knew how much I donated "not to family" there "would be trouble", and to think that I'm positive there will be at least one more installment between now and then..."BIG" trouble. Then again, knowing the amount of lift produced by a non-kicktailed S30 at speeds above 120mph in 10mph increments will make ballasting our Bonneville car MUCH more precise. No more "well it was loose on that run, add ten more pounds and we'll see what happens next month!" We know we need to run 140, we will ballast for that lift, and leave it at that. Kind of gives "sandbagging" a new meaning as well! Ballast light so it gets loose and you have no outward indication that you are "going light" through the traps when in contention for Points Champion....

"my own crude methods of data collections back in the 90s were extremely dangerous and extremely risky." Great minds thought alike during that very same time period! LOL My static pressure probes and Magnahelics, Manometers, and Omega Rotary Switch Thermocouple reader rocketing down the road coming to realizations of "Oh, that's interesting OH SH*T! BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAKES!" A wind tunnel will be much more empirical, and more importantly SAFE!

I have looked at the Greenlee Conduit Bender, which is a "pivoting circle" style bender. Much better than crushbending. But they are electro-hydraulic, and it draws the tubing through a die, around a circular centerpiece. Nice bends, but $$$. Unless you have a friend in industrial electrical installations. Haven't seen a bender like this on a jobsite bending conduit for quite a while.

This is what JeffP is experiencing right now. The engine has very driveable torque right off idle, and can pull foll boost at 3400rpm. With the cam now easily pulling strong to 7300+, he is finding that Horsepower Curve really[/] starts climbing at 5000 rpms, about where most "stock cammed highly boosted" engines are peaking horsepower wise. The difference between 15 psi and 20 psi was far more dramatic than his previous build. A good indication of what proper cam and RPM utilization can be illustrated on his prior setup, and the current build. Previously he had full spool at 3K rpm on the small turbo, and with a larger turbo at 3500rpm. Running something like 415HP to the rear wheels at 23psi and peaking around 5800rpm. Stout... Currently the car makes in the area of 523hp to the rear wheels at 15psi, with full boost available at 3400, and pulling the peak to more near 6900rpm. (Mustang -v- Dynojet conversions come into play to make apples and apples in this case...we noticed 15% when doing identical testing, so the dyno run below should read a peak of 525 on a dynojet, which is what the earlier runs on his page were completed with.) Of course there was some head work involved on the last build, but the numbers were only nominally changed the largest difference was the cam profile, and a turbo to accomodate the higher flow dictated by the higher rev capability. Torque is flat and impressive, he has a photo of one of the pulls on his webpage. Would you classify that as "Peaky" or "Flat", just so we are all on the same page. This run cut short due to detonation, that's the dyno racking back and forth above 6300 rpms because he lifted and the BOV kicked in...

Got some correspondence recently on someone building a Group 4 240. he decided the FRP kit was not light enough so it's going to be Carbon Fiber. Then he got it in his head that the aluminum bolts that are supposed to hold the fenders on were to heavy, so he hit the heads with a ball mill, then gundrilled the M6 bolts with a 2mm drill....to lighten the fasteners further. Gundrilled the replacement Titanium Rear A-Arm bolts as well... Some people say they "want to reduce weight" and from now on I will always be able to tell if they are serious when I ask "have you ball milled the heads and gundrilled all the Aluminim M6 fasteners on the car yet?" LOL!

Instead of using the balljoint linkage from the pedal through the firewall, to the bellcrank, to the "finger linkage" to actuate the main rod that holds all the downlinks to the individial carbs, I took all that out and.... Drilled the pressed rivet side of the ball on the top of the throttle pedal. Knocked it out with a punch, leaving a hole about EXACTLY the size the 200SX throttle cable needs to snap into! Ohh, how convienient---but situated wrong in regards to plane of action. So I heated theend of the pedal where the balljoint formerly was, and bent it 90 degrees to line it up with the hole in the firewall where the bellows and throughrod goes. It bends just right (I used to have a photo posted online, but forgot where it was). To let the 200SX cable go in properly I had to cut a slot from the end of the throttle pedal to the hole where the ball was drilled out (for the cable to slide through). Slid the cable through the hole, snapped the retainer from the end onto the pedal, and loosened the throttle pedal stop screw in preparation for the new position of "full throttle". The pedal drops considerably the way I did it, making it much closer to the height of the brake pedal..."how convienient"... Next, I took the quadrant, which fits on any 10mm rod, and slid it onto the end of my Triple's Linkage holding rod, and screwed the 200SX throttle cable holder to the top of one of the Mikuini Float Bowl Cover using the existing screws. The end at the firewall simply screws into the firewall using the two sheetmetal screws from the 200SX, looks stock, and covers the stock hole nicely! From that point it was a matter of adjusting the pedal stop, cable length, and quadrant for the proper tension, response, and full throttle range. Much nicer pedal feel, IMO. It's been on the "Shark Car" for quite a while. It makes it nice to switch between induction systems, and makes for an easy way to convert to one of those 240SX throttle bodies on an EFI manifold, without any cutting or otherwise hacing the existing throttle body, I already have a cable, so it hooks directly to most any current T/B out there! As Borat would say: "Very Nice!" LOL

"Are there some weird class restrictions that only allow certain combinations?" That is the Name of the Game up there! He's running "C/GMS" which is 5001 cc's to 6000 cc's engine displacement ("C"), Gasoline Fueled ("G"), Modified Sports which is where so many modded Z-Cars end up because of non-stock body mods. A MSA spoiler up front puts your S30 Coupe into "MS" class, but a G-Nose will keep you in "GT" class. And of course, since the 2+2 is classed a "Production Vehicle" the class rules are even more obscure as we run in F/PRO, F/GALT, F/GCC, etc. If you want a rundown on their rules, there are pretty complete and up to date rules online for the classes, as well as a TON of photos from Bonneville as well as El Mirage at the Southern California Timing Asscoiation Website: http://www.scta-bni.org You will find all sorts of photos of our car, and all sorts of other vehicles. It's like no place else on the face of the earth during a race weekend. When Frank and Xander came last year from Amsterdam, they summed it up best: "This is like a Mad Max Sequel, everything with an engine is out here trying to go fast!" Indeed! There are some more photos on my Cardomain Page of the #236 car, I don't know if I got a good head-on shot or not, here is the link: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/735451/10 (Page 11 has some shots of our LSR car, as well as some recent shots from November at El Mirage on Page 15, either jump there from the page, or substitute "11" or "15" for the "10" in the hotlink given here to go directly there.)

what is the length on those primaries?

Jeff stopped by this morning to raid my parts bin for his wiring harness so he can build his test stand, later he called me and said he picked up some Bosch 720CC units from Lance at Pantera Specialists and had gotten them installed into the car and went out for some testing. These are the pintile style units. He said idle quality improved IMMEDIATELY , and the car was running slightly richer than with the Ring & Disc MSD units JWT sold him for the setup---this was a straight swap from what he had to the new style injectors. By his one run in second gear, he says now the car is behaving much more linearly in regards to the VQ Table and etc. It gets pig rich on the top end, so maybe he was having an injector problem. "That was another $700 down the drain" was one of his comments. Genteel company dictates I not repeat some of the more spicy comments in regards to these initial findings! LOL!

BJ, that mirrors what we see in the Land Speed Car. We ended up adding 200# of lead shot to the spare tire well, and it netted us a nice jump in top speed simply due to stopping tire spinning at speed. Andy almost spun the car during one run after we dropped the spoiler off the back, just couldn't keep power to the ground. Added the weight and stuck like glue. Picked up something like 6 mph on that run. On the FairladyZ with 205-60-14's it pulls something like 5300rpm with the early 280 five speed, in fifth, with a 3.9 rear gear. That's with, or without my little "tagalong trailer" being towed (don't ask why I do these tests, I just do....) Similarly, the wife's 260Z with a late ZX five speed, the same tire/rim combination, and a 3.70 gearset topped out at 4750rpm. For like an hour leaving St. Louis across Missouri... Both engines are basically stock. eeh...

Radiator varies. Andy had a NASCAR fabricator make up a five pass unit for his 502 CID car, and we run that radiator when on the dyno, and we put (believe this or not) a stock radiator back in for the Runs at the lake. No radiator in these photos, that's one of the components that needed to be installed at that point... Everybody likes the second photo... LOL!

Within 10HP is pretty good given the cost. As long as it's repeatable then seems like the G-Tech or other unit would do well for people doing tuning at a distance from the dyno. I know with the WBO2, and the printouts from the PASS G-Tech, you could get darned close to fully tuned before going to the dyno for "illegal speed required load points"! BTW, my old 1st gen G-Tech was within 2 hp of my Dynojet run. Curiously mine ran 147 on the dynojet as well! Similar mods as you: 60mm TB, stock manifold ported for T/B, cast iron manifold using MSA downpipe to 2.5" crush-bent exhaust, with glasspack resonator up front and "unknown turbo style muffler" out back. Car runs 15.30 in 1/4 with me in it, competition weight was 2695#, speed something like 88 or 89mph.

Their buy it now was not that much better than what you could get the TWM throttle cable linkage for... I put a quadrant onto my standard linkage and removed the balljoint sections form the pedal to the common bar on the manifold, and it's silky smooth now. Did that for about $15 Quadrant, a junkyard 200SX Throttle Cable, and a modification to the throttle pedal involving a drill, vise, and hacksaw....

ahhh now remember Mike, my above statement was "unmodified front end", and the speed was "above 150"... I am not disputing anyones claims when they have done "real" modifications to the vehicle involving airflow, etc. But when someone comes up to me with a hackjob bonestock Impala Stationwagon 350 conversion, with absolutely no modification to the front end, underneath, and indeed has raised the car for "tire clearance" or "looks" and in the same breath claims the car "easily does 165 all day long" with that TH400 and 3.36 rear end... Well, Mike, I'm sure you're in my camp in saying in this case "We will smile politely and move on to the next subject!" LOL This happens far more often that you might think. Especially when hanging around people bitter that their V8 is slower than "a puny little six"! But that is another discussion altogether! I mean this is not limited to the Z-Community in any srot or stretch of the imagination. i know someone who claimed their B-60 14 shod Chevelle with a 4.11 gear "spun a rod doing 160 racing a turbo Porsche"... BS is not limited to us Z-Car guys, no, not at all! LOL

Yes, as Warren stated "@350" (which I thought I read) adds to another oft overlooked compression testing mistake by technicians who are not...er...."melticulous"... A fully charged battery is required for the engine to crank at that 350rpm from the starter. I have had customers come in after doing their own compression tests screaming that one of the shops rebuilds "took a dump" because they couldn't get proper compression. They were, in one case, cranking a STONE COLD engine, in an UNHEATED GARAGE (and we're talking -20F cold soak, with them going out and firing up the heater in the shop, and rolling the car from unheated storage to the shop and immediately testing while everything is still -20...), and just not understanding how I got the numbers I got the prior week when doing my compression tests. Battery Condition, Engine Warm or Cold, Throttle Plates Blocked Open, ALTITUDE OF THE TESTING FACILITY....I mean the list of variables are endless, and many times people just disregard them, and you can't do that and expect any test to provide any usefull information! Crossing the "T's" and Dotting the "I's" is the hallmark of a good technician. Unfortunately, through no foult of his own, Ecko is probably being fed inaccurate information from the tech, who has a vested interest in performing more heavy maintenance to cover his initial warrany costs after the come-back on the initial head gasket replacement. Sad to say that, but in the reality of today, this is more often the case than not. The thing to be aware of is that at least two more tests need to be accomplished: A WET compression test, and a Leakdown Test. Wether the compression comes up or not on the Wet Test, a leakdown should be performed. But that all comes back to Testing Methodology. If this bozo is doing a "one pump" test, all of it is out the window, as the test results are useless!