Tony D

Feeler Gauge Blades: Excellent idea! I have a lot of old Brass and Stainless Steel Shim Stock from doing motor alignments, but feeler gauges are cheap, and probably provide more than enough material for an individual setting up an engine. I have done similar things with that bulk sheet stock for years. I always had a problem telling people where to get shim stock in their local area outside of an industrial hardware store, that Sears Feeler Gauge idea is brilliant, Thanks! Glad I logged on today and read that!

Never ever have said any such things! People should be wary about attributing quotes to me that have not passed from my lips! I have ONLY stated that we ran our .040" L28 to 8500, and that was a function of the gearspacing in the transmission, and our power curve. Shifting at 8500 was possible, but in actual testing, and after almost four seasons of shifting at 8500 through all the gears, our fastest times and best speeds were had starting the vehicle in third gear with a push start, and shifting at 8500. Basically first and second were a waste of time. So from that, I can see nearly sometime in the future someone will say "Tony D has said spending time in first and second on a road racing course is wasted time." Please DON'T put words in my mouth, and RETRACT that comment! I never said it, and it is at a point where I will INSIST that you show me the place where YOU sourced that information saying I did! As for the current LSR car, with the L20A crank, and 1998cc displacment, yes we are shifting at 9000+rpm (9300 initially) simply beause this engine is making peak power in the 8750rpm range. To hear an L-Engine revving for 30+ seconds above 9000rpm changes what you think about what an L-Engine sounds like! Mind you, these are not "Redlines" they are "Shiftpoint" numbers. Currently the limiter on the 2.8 program was around 8700, and the 2.0 program is 9500. Redline is more a function of valvetrain componentry than crankshaft harmonics, and first and second critical speeds. But I digress, I chimed in here to say I NEVER said the quote above, in no place, at any time, and that the poster is inaccurately attributing statements to me that are false.

Web Cam? BAH! I drove past their building returning the U-Haul auto transport today, I was wondering if they did L-Engine Cams, they are about 5 miles from my house! I wish JeffP would chime in here, he knows what his stuff is in his car as well. The numbers you are giving are at .050, or gross numbers? His lift is (I think) in the .550"+ area, up from the former .485 on the Elgin Cam. I'll have to ditto Sporks' comments on Lobe Separation and Lobe Center, they are two different things, and each will affect the engine in a different way. Opening point on the cam will be different on a cam with an "X" degree lobe center, as opposed to one with a "Y" Center. And like James is saying, the 'separation' between the two lobe centers will affect overlap which gets critical with a turbo engine to prevent reversion. And yes, seriously, Web Cams is 5 miles from my house, behind the U-Haul Regional Yard off the 60 fwy! LOL

I'll throw into the mix that I just changed divisions at work, and no longer have access to the five-axis tracer machine back in Kentucky. Originally the plan was to trace out a BCG head from JeffP's engine, since Nathan is not doing them any more, having the ability to five axis a port to exactly what it was before (within reason) on another head, or after a repair on the Bonneville car was the primary reason for this---but it would have given a nice model to reverse engineer what others are doing compared to one of the premier head porters in L-Engine History. What I will do now is up in the air. I wanted to check the ports done by RS Okinawa back in the mid 80's and see how they compared, as they look very different, and obstensibly came from similar applications.

Yes, that is the key: "MolWeight" When designing flows and capacities in stationary multi-stage centrifugal compressors, humidity is a critical facto that has to be accounted for when determining flow delivered to the customer, as well as determining what size the condensate removal piping will have to be. After the first stage of compression, all compressed air (short of refrigerating the air for desiccation) is 100% RH, and that is one of the reasons the first stage is usually disporportionately larger than the relative sizes between second and third stage, or subsequent stages of the machine. Which leads into the next subject: Freon intercoolers.... if you have 100% RH at 9-10 degrees F above ambient from your A/A interfooler, just imagine the density boost you would get by desiccating the air in a freon intercooler and dropping the inlet temperature down to 35F. For a short run drag car (er, or Bonneville Car) a battery powered electric compressor would make a big difference in power. And even with a tap off the vehicle's A/C system, the net gain in power would more than offset the drag of an intermittent compressor operating drag... But I digress... Water displaces air that could be there. And the hotter the air, the more water it can hold. The amount of water that air hold jumps dramatically from 85F to 104F, it's a factor of what can be held at a lower temperature, and for all intents and purposes, if the air is above 120F the amount of water it can entrain as water vapor is jumped by another factor! In many cases, with multi-stage stationary compressors that are air cooled (interstage cooler), design will dictate savings by deleting condensate removal on the first stage of cooling, simply by desinging the second stage inlet to operate at <120F, and spinning the second stage slightly faster to make up for the less dense air.

check with Bryan Blake, I believe, matter of fact I'm sure, he is using that funky dual relay in the 75 to 78 280Z to control his EFI power and Fuel Pump...

I did some swapping while in Japan, and I found that the L20 Maifolds make for SEARING throttle response and phenomenal torque down low. Now that also goes with the engine falling flat on it's face by 550 FOR SURE. But with an L20E intake manifold on an L28, using L20ET Injectors on the stock L20E ECU and AFM, the car I did that swap on, when in a sweeping turn would absolutely BOIL the tires with instant torque when I follred the throttle at 2000rpms. So if you are building a stoplight performer, don't discount those small runners on the L20 Manifolds! Vlowcity velocity velocity! That little step at the head is nice for anti-reversion as well, helping with dilution of the charge while under boost due to exhaust backpressure. Just some random thoughts! Good Luck on the build.

E31, E88, some JDM N42's, just about anything on any engine before 75.

The Carburetted Engines would simply need a slightly different angle to clear the port. I don't know how thick the flange is, but by my measurements a simple angle change should shoot the fuel where it needs to be or simply spacing the injector back fro mthe port a bit would do nicely. I like the idea of the injector mounted in the flange personally, because it takes the variable out of putting them in a tubular runner and accurately positioning them. Then again, I may be running a dual injector system with idle/emissions injectors near the head, and the real business out near the plenum. Making a set of "dummy plug" injector bodies for the standard flange would be easy enough if someone chose to move the injectors elsewhere. That's my thought on it anyways.

Yargh! I just realized this was a cross-posted item, it was addressed similarly in the Turbo-Supercharged Forum when originally posted. And here I thought he was getting the cold shoulder for an easily searchable item... Will John come from the Tool Shed trolling for this one? LOL

Sssssssss! "He Stands Corrected"! LOL In 1989, when I was rotating back stateside I got a smug Tech Sargeant who said almost the same thing. I was discussing a Blowoff Valve operation releasing air backpressure in the intake tract to prevent overpressurization and a turbo stall (surge) and he got this big all-knowing smile and stated "Funny, I always thought that was called a wastegate!" (you had to know the guy, it wasn't an innocent comment!) I similarly corrected him, being it was time for my PCS, I was at my ETS, and he was basically a POS for the whole time I was stationed in Japan...Basically explained it in a FOAD way stating his thoughts were FUBAR and he didn't know HAFAHIG... Nuff said for military acronyms! A Wastegate controls turbine speed as a function of boost (or turbine backpressure in some cases). A Popoff Valve is an emergency relief DOWNSTREAM of the throttling plate. A Blowoff Valve is a relief UPSTREAM of the throttling plate. It can be argued that the BOV can also be used as a POV, but in no cases will a POV be able to be used as a BOV. In the above photo, it's showing and aftermarket BOV, the stock unit dumps into #4 Intake Runner and is of a non-adjustable design working on pressure differential instead of being vacuum assisted in opening. The one in the photo could also be deemed a "Compressor Bypass Valve" if plumbed correctly, whereas the stock unit in the Nissan Manifold is ONLY a BOV, and will never bypass the compressor, no matter what. I digress...

NO! They are "dumb" there is no "learning" like on the newer ECU's. They are now (at the best) 23 years old. Put a tin can out in a room, and let it sit for 23 years, and see if that tin is still nice, shiny, and bright after 23 years. Think about it. Don't make it sound like it's all that out of the ordinary for a car with 23 year old components to have issues with electrics. The thing to take away from Cygnus' Post (IMO) is that by insulating the pins properly with Dielectric Grease, and keeping OXYGEN away from the freshly cleaned plugs the RAPID REOXIDATION is forestalled for a much longer period of time. I have gone through this myself, and learned LONG ago that Dielectric on EVERY Low-Voltage contact in the EFI system was THE way to do it. Something about cleaning the connectors mechanically or chemically seems to leave them open for rapid reoxidation. I have recently begun using the DEOXIT product from Radio Shack, but even after "gold coating" the pins, I STILL am using dielectric on the parts. I think the second part of the Deoxit product is simply another method for preventing reoxidation. If you look at the newer connectors, the OEM's have taken GREAT pains to seal out moisture form the pins, and make the connector virtually airtight at the same time. Nice multi ribbed silicone barbs sheathing the pins individually, going together so tightly they "pop" when you break the suction pulling them apart. OEM's realized low voltage doesn't like corrosion (resistance), and now have figured out better connectors to keep the contact clean. Short of replacing the connectors with modern types, the only other reasonable alternative is the dielectric sealing of the pins. There IS a secondary failure mode whereby the wire at the end of the loom corrodes and causes problems, but that is more in the engine compartment, and not at the ECU multi-connector. That is solved with replacing the connectors and using proper pigtails or harness repair techniques.

Well, the point I was making is that even though the bolts "might" interfere with head mounted injector placement, EVERY head made by Nissan has those six holes! It's nice to make something that you don't have to stock two parts for. Granted its another machining step, but for someone selling just the flanges it would be a universal part. That, and I have three heads totally ported back in Japan during the mid/late 80's by the #1 L-Engine Builder there, and two of them are non-efi bolt patterned! Along with that, I just picked up a former Electromotive head that is E88 casting, and that means no injector notches nor four big bolt holes. There are a lot of carburetted engines out there that would definately benefit from an EFI upgrade, doing it with their existing $2400 ported head would be a good selling point. Our Bonneville car uses an E88-Based Head, and a Triple Carb Manifold, you guessed it, no "four big bolts". And yep, if you want to shoot me a quote for the flange alone, feel free, James---I think you have the flange/injector integrated setup as well, correct?

To be nice I'll say "no", it's comvered in the swapping post in the FAQ I believe. Use the Vapor Return Line instead, it is big enough, you just return fuel through one of the 1/4 connections on the top of the tank instead of that dinky 3/16" stock return line.

Justin, that is a nice flange incorporating the Fuel Injectors. Please PM or E-Mail me, I may want to buy a few from you (actually I do want to buy them, it's just a matter of when I can get them!) Thanks! On an aside, do ANY of you guys think of making a flange that DOES NOT use the EFI bolt pattern? Both Justin and Brian's flanges BOTH use the EFI bolt pattern----something for the older heads would make it dual purpose. ALL Nissan heads have the Six-Bolt Carburetted flange, but only EFI heads have that Four-Bolt setup. Just asking, guys, how about it?

Terrible Suggestion I have, but.... If you SLIGHTLY heated the bore, it probably will slide on. Or, if you packed the snout in ice (dry ice preferably), the snout will shrink enough to stick it on there. Tight Fits Fight Frets! (Catchy Machinist's Slogan There) With that tight of a fit, though it would seem prudent to use some Molykote or other Anti-Gall lubricant to ease removal in the future. With .001/.0015" fit, or even a bit more than that you should be able to get it off using conventional pullers if you stick it on there with light heat on the bore and Molykote on the Snout.

Then again, the last time I saw your car on a dyno, Jeff, it was making what, 278 HP and 319 Ft-Lbs @ 4875rpm? On 8 pounds of boost. I love mixy matchy claims. Given the above facts would it be an untruthful claim to say JeffP has close to 300HP @ 8#, on his Nissan-ECU'd (meets SCCA Rules for STOCK COMPUTER), downpipe and exhaust system equipped 83 280ZXT? Not at all. A bit misleading, but not untruthful in the least bit. Claims are not much unless the testing is comparative, which is what JP is poking at I guess. Amongst other things.

Smokey Yunick complained about the lack of deck height on the Small Block Chevy. You will notice that some of the aftermarket blocks now produced come with the taller deck height Smokey so bitterly complained about.... That aside, Isky makes a nice turbo grind and doesn't cost anything extra than their normal cam. If you call and talk with Ron there, and give him your engine specifics, they will grind just about anything you want for the standard cost of the cam---with as long as they have been working on the L-Engine Cams, usually one if their stock grinds will be suitable, they just set it up with a different lobe center, separation, or split the intake and exhaust grind (Like L4 Intake, and L9 Exhaust Lobes, as opposed to using an L4 L4 standard grind.) JeffP has had great time after getting that cam setup in his latest build, nice 7000+ rpm pulling setup. We need to put some sacks of gravel in the back on his car to plant it more solidly for traction, when it passes through 45 to 4800rpm in third gear on boost (about 70mph), the back tires light up and start boiling gotta lift and short shift to try to get it to hook---that toasts the clutch. I told him we need to make a "New Darius Video" but we haven't gotten around to that yet. Haven't gotten the sacks of gravel, either.... LOL I have said for years what Bob is saying: Stick with the 2.8, and just boost it! Electromotive had 720HP at 7500rpms in 1983, somewhere along the line people forgot how to do that I guess.

EXCELLENT IDEA! Please post a pin-out for the appropriate harness you connected to in your application. I figured this could be easily done after seeing 1 fast Z hack the stock harness for his application. One thing everybody is forgetting: California has a Visual Inspection Component to their emissions test. One of the primary reasons the cars our age fail (76 through 83) is a bad AFM track or sensor error. With this adaptor, and some simple tuning, you will have a setup that the smog police will NEVER suspect, a car that responds better, and in the case of equipping the 75-80 cars with an EGO, a car with a mixture that meets the catalytic converters needs more often than not! Imagine that, a modification that INCREASES PERFORMANCE, and actually in some cases makes the car A GREENER VEHICLE! Best of both worlds. I was up for a hack into the stock ECU Box just for S & G's but this little adapter would make it a piece of cake for people who had minimum downtime, or wanted to TRY SOMETHING before buying. "Here, plug this in and take a ride"---sure you got some sensors and a TPS to play with beforehand, but I think they all will work out fine. And that Cold Start Injector is now easily activated with a jumper from one of the available I/O's to trigger at WOT for NO2 enrichment.....

Gotta Agree with Stony, they are keeping it in the burnout box, not really pushing backwards! Common outside the of USA where litigation doesn't ruin a motorsports event. Okinawa was just getting a short track when I rotated away, at that time the big spot was out front of the Naval Hospital where RS Okinawa held court and spanked on many comers. Though their Bosch Dyno-Tune sticker only proclaimed 444RWHP at the time. Then again, that was 1985, using carbs and a stock distributor... I'm sure things have come forward since then!

I'd agree with John, but instead of a silicon adapter upsizing at the T/B, try to make a tapered cone adapter so you impart less turbulence as it enters the EFI plenum through the throttle plate. Shouldn't be that hard of a fab with some of the smaller slip-rollers available now. There are all sorts of supersonic speeds that you monitor for when designing a piping system, but in practical application the pipe friction and etc arent' as critical as many think. If you are below 300 hp, I wouldn't sweat it at all. BTW, thanks for the recomendation of the Dyno Shop, John, those guys were great!

Yes, the plan is for David to drive the car during the two day event at El Mirage the first weekend in May. I have just bought a third camera body, as well as lenses and adapter rings to I can try and shoot some decent photos of the car at-speed so you can see the slipstream and dust coming off the back of the vehicle. El Mirage taught us a lot from static photos I took in 99 with my 35mm, I'm looking forward to some better digitals with the Nikon and the 3X and 2X lenses attached. Hopefully David will get his rookie run on Saturday, and then go for the first record on a second run that day, or most definately the second day! The rookie run is limited to below 3/4 throttle, and under 100mph, but the record we are going for is in the 140's so once the rookie run is made, he will be able to run for the record, and get his speed qualification to 149mph on his second run (this all the time acknowledging the old racre's axiom: 'If it all holds together') This will be exciting, going down in displacement really makes the speeds challenging. The rocords sought would be (in no particular order): G/PRO, G/ALT, G/GCC etc... Most are in the high 140's range, and several are held by a sponsored Honda... So knocking that one off will be particularly satisfying! Muahahahaha! When photos are available, I'll try to get them up somewhere and link to them. Cardomain if nothing else. Cheers, All!

That should have read "there is a manometer reading that must be reached before the carbon cannister admits fuel VAPOR" Point being that there ARE acceptable amounts of pressure and vacuum that will be present in the gas tank. In the EARLY cars, the crankcase was the storage for evaporative emissions, and if you have high pressure in the crankcase, it pressurises the tank---especially if the shuttle valve on the left fender well goes south...nothing like acidic crankcase vapors being pumped into the tank.... And the point behind saying that is that EVERYONE in this post has given subjective opinions on what pressure is in there. Without actually measuring it, and quantifying it, those kind of measurements are useless! You are taking the right step: MEASURE the pressure buildup, and compare it to what is considered normal. if you have removed the charcoal cannister, you are going to have to vent it, causing massive HC pollution. Emissions are not all out the tailpipe, and as a matter of fact tailpipe emissions are not really a factor in HC vehicular emissions any longer thanks to catalyzation. Now evaporative emissions the what they are going after---and it's precisely what you are discussiing bypassing by adding a checkvavle, or open atmospheric vent to the tank! The charcoal cannister, while being 30 years old, is not a consumable part---it works, and is still in cars today! It does not affect engine performance, but GREATLY decreases emissions from the veihcles when fuel system integrity is maintained properly---there is not any real good reason to remove it. It is easily relocated to the wheel well if you want to clean up the engine bay. Having it there is good for us all. The days of short-sighted emissions hacking should have long been done away with. Legislators watch what people do with their cars, and legislate accordingly. All they need is some media type hyping modifications, and here comes legislation. Clean, Mean, and Green is the hotrodders credo today. Responsible ones, anyway. If we don't police ourselves, trust me, the alternative is someone else like a dimwitted bureaucratic oversight committee legislating draconian measures and killing our hobby...

L20A (JDM Block) bored .020" to clean up the rust pits, crank offset ground to destroke to capacity limit of 1998cc's. E88 Head, worked over... Tec2 EFI with TWM 45mm ITB's. Running engine driven fan (to be removed for competition and replaced with electric water pump drive) Running straight pipes off headers to rear of car (for belly pan use) Rear Wheel Horsepower Numbers, John Coffee knows the dyno, he recomended it to us (thanks, john!). 195HP at 8750rpms Torque >125 ft-lbs to over 9300rpms (this is NOT a peak torque number, it's a MINIMUM number for the torque plateau on each end) where it starts to drop off. We were hoping to make 66% of what the L28 engine made, (shooting for 200, 207RWHP) and we are really close to that. The electric water pump will free up some HP, especially at higher rpms, so on-course horsepower shold be at that number, and should give us the records we seek. So that's the update!