Tony D

Nissan. They should have the oil pump gaskets in stock. If they don't have them for an 83 ZXT, then tell them one of the trucks with a KA24. They use the same gasket. Or so says Jim Wolf... They had the 83ZXT part number, suprise suprise, so we didn't get a chance to firsthand check out hte KA 24 designation...

The purpose of the webbing is to keep as much heat away from the fuel as possible. The purpose of the heat shield under the manifold is to keep as much heat away from the manifold as possible. I would not go with a non-webbed intake unless it came on the car. Meaning I wouldn't go out looking for one if I had a Non-EGR webbed manifold. I like my P82.

Yes, by joint, I didn't mean to say only an bellows would do. The stock Euro manifold I have has reworked slip joints to replace the bellows that came stock since they are NLA. In fact, Nissan used a machined recess that had two pieces inside each other one mated inside each respective portion of the manifold, then a bellows that covered the whole schebang. Basically a slip-joint covered by a bellows. The replacement parts I have are slip joint only, and the manufacturer has been running his in Europe for over a year now with no leaks. Initially he said there was some "puffing" cold, but as temperatures came up (or soot blocked the leak path!) it all sealed up nicely. I concur with the brace. A visit to Mario down at Toespeed reveals he usually makes a brace from the motor mount to the turbo flange. This is on Weld-El SS manifolds on HOndas supporting big turbos. He said even using Sch40 Weld Els, there was a cracking problem from overhung weight at the flange. Since he has added some 1/4" rods to each of the bottom corners to brace it to the motor mount area (almost directly below the thing on those applications) he has not had any cracking, and it allowed him to go back to using Sch10 SS Weld-Els. Triangulation might be a bit difficult, but he thinks a couple of rods could be fit somewhere to hold it all up and keep it from twisting. He attaches his to the flange itself. I like the idea of those heim joints, that would allow for checking stretch hot, then cold, and figuring out where inbetween you want to introduce the stresses. At that point, I suppose you could make them from a straight rod and use the ball joints elsewhere.

That guy is SMOKING something on that auction! That is a simple run-of-the-mill available on every car in Japan Nissan Oil Cap! "Commerate the Safari Wins in 1969" OH MAN, THAT'S RICH! HAW HAW HAW! The Elephant is a "Service Symbol" in Nissan Literature, and is on the Nissan-Branded Oil they sold at the service bays, also. That is so full of it, it's ludicrous! Man, that guy gave me my laugh today! No, it's nothing special, it's just a JDM oil cap. Nothing "commerative" about it at all!

Flywheel Assy sounds heavy. What is it lightened to, and how much is your pressure plate/flywheel total weight? Mikuini Manifold, right? Niiice!

Annybody know of an available commercial tincture or something to I.D. the material of the valves in my new E88 head? I have the possibility of having some Titanium Valves in a head I bought, and wondered how (short of weighing them after disassembly) one could tell with the head assembled? Scratch a head with a SS valve? (eeh!) Dyno sheet and build sheet is nebulous, but valves on head build sheet are listed "DelWest" and to me that means Ti... Engine was making power to the 8700 range. Metallurgy is not annotated otherwise. I am waiting for the head to be delivered, so when I get it here, I'm hoping to I.D. them or do some measurements to verify that the build sheet corresponds to what I find on the head, to rule out a mistake of being supplied the incorrect build sheet for the head. So how do I satiate my curiosity when it arrives? Anyone? Bueller?

Radiator Hoses? Anybody ever see the old Renault Fuego intercooler connections? Look just like radiator hose on the other part of the block!!! First thing most owners did was to remove them and replace with a solid steel or aluminum piping because of "balooning" causing a "mushy" boost response. For prototyping, I see no problem with it. But after seeing what Renault Hoses look like, and how they are balooned and deformed after a few years of boost....I'll move to solid lines as soon as practicable!

And people complain about US Labor costs and Taxes! LOL Such is the toll for living in the Social-Net Utopia I suppose... That aside, what are the costs involved in hipping tools into Norway? A digital caliper (even from the dreaded Harbor Freight) isn't that bad, and if you can follow the instructions in the "How To" book you can/will save a lot of money and learn a lot in the process. I digress to agree with Mike in that if you need the transportation, then you may have no choice but to pay for it, but having even rudimentary tools to check their work and recheck clearances will add peace of mind. Digital Indicators from HF and Digital Calipers are one-button convertable to Metric, so you can use local specifications and convert quickly to compare to the English units in the "How To" book. There really is no reason you can't assemble the engine yourself after the machine work is done. Gene Berg (VW's) was big on his customer's assembling his components, and it was like pulling teeth to get him to do a complete engine. His logic was that informed customers who know how it went together will be less likely to complain or ask niggling questions about this or that becasue they did it themselves, and in the process answer those types of questions. With a dial indicator, digital caliper, magnetic base, and maybe a Mic you will have most all of what you will need to do engine setup and assembly, and the cost for tools will be less than $100, plus shipping and whatever customs charges you have coming into country. If needed, I can ship to you because I doubt HF ships overseas (http://www.harborfreight.com). Once you have the basic stuff, you find all sorts of things to use them on! As for dyno tuning, anywhere form half a day to a day at $150 an hour if the shop is doing all the tuning. Can be half that if you are doing the tuning, and they are just supplying the wideband, dyno, and operator. Good Luck on the project. Come to think of it, Harbor Freight is still open, I'm going to check out that digital indicator...bye!

I'm wondering why nobody says to call in a claim to the SHIPPER for flexing the gasket in shipment? Sounds a bit picky, I don't think that will make any measurable difference in use.

Just to remind all, many of the 79 and 80 ZX's had a Non-EGR manifold as well, without the BCDD underneath it. P82. Smaller plenum than the N42, but "product improvement" would seem to indicate this was the way Nissan went for a reason... No EGR is No EGR, and the ZX manifolds seem more plentiful than the N42's. Check out my cardomain page for a photo of the P82 manifold in use on a 260ZT Megasquirt Conversion.

I agree, Greddy/Trust.

That's not an external pump, that is a conversion for the stock pump tobypass the gundrilling in the block for supply and feeding oil to the engine. It still utilizes the stock pump, and stock pump drive. I was sniped by someone who has bought a trillion kids clothes, but not one engine part... Hmmmmmmmmm. The conversion for this without the pan can be had from NISMO for $270. It helps flow quite a bit, but still uses the stock pump. Telling you something about the stock pump!

That's a bit of an overstatement! I don't think there is a bunch of oil pump failures, but if you are sloppy in assembly you can make even the best designed pieces fail. The external pumps are readily available, do a search on "Dry Sump" oil systems on google, and you will find many many many sources. To keep it "wet sump" using an external pump, you block it off like you would with a dry sump (the old oil pump portion of the front cover) and plumb the suction into the pan like you would for the "ultimate wet sump external pickup" setup guys have been using for years. This bypasses the restrictive internal oil pickup gundrilling, and lets the strainer pick up oil from the bottom of the pan directly through a -10 braided line directly. But I think its a lot of work to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

Have you checked the Redline Weber Site to see what they shipped with? I don't have my ref with me right now.

One of the reasons that Mikuinis get such great mileage is that the PILOT jet is usually all you are running on below 3000rpms. Unlike webers where the transition ports aren't really that big, so they jet the mains richer and use a smaller booster to tip in the main circuit earlier. Once you go on the main circuit, you will be lucky to break into the 20's. Generally pilot jets are between 55 & 60 I can't remember where mine are now, 220 airs, and maybe 145 or 155 mains. It's been so long I can't remember. I agree, though, 5mpg isn't good. I had a blowthrough turbo setup that got that at the track with 44PHH's. But that was at the track. If you drive like you are at the track, and have rpms up appreciably above 3200 continually, the mileage will suffer...

oil weight will change transient response, you will see transient leans on throttle application. doubling up the spring weight will show a more positive response. welcome to the world of the "metered vacuum leak"!!! BTW, there is really no "set" number on the "Turns Down"---ideally it is set based on lean or rich best idle, and the setting of the needle height sets the rest of the rpm range.

Have you considered e-mailing redline weber and asking them for the jetting recomendations, and then getting SMALLER mains and idles. Get the recomendations for the California Emissions Legal carburettor setup, they _may_ be leaner, but I'm remembering the only difference in the kits was an anti-dieseling solenoid on the carbs for the idle circuit. many of the weber manuals carry jetting recomendations. if worse comes to worst, use a colortune to get the jetting right, if not a WBO2.

This is the DGV Duals, right, not the 40 or 45DCOE triples?

DAW, when were you in the Chrysler Challenge, and what School in Michigan? Anybody know what year that Chrysler Challenge started? 1980, 1985?

I haven't forgotten! I really haven't. I'm still catching up on housework that my wife will make a deal about if I don't! I'm close though...dug the ditch, cut up one car, only three more cars to cut up (in reality, I can get by with cutting one more to dumpster sized pieces), and some relocation of the existing cars and I should be "finished" areound the yard for the time being. I am feverishly working today to free up tomorrow. Have to get my company truck serviced sometime Monday...but I'm hoping I can do that Tuesday afternoon on my drive to Sac'to. I'm supposed to be in Sac'to Tuesday, Wednesday, and return Thursday... Leaving Friday open too, now that I think about it!!! Man, my laptop if FULL, too! BAH! Too much to do, too little time top do it in.

You will notice most of the serious tuner shops in Japan convert the sequential twins to a single turbo when going for linearity. HKS came out with a single turbo cas t manifold for both the Supra and RX7 almost immediately. This is different when they are dual turbos operating in parallel--many times they keep twins then, and only occaasionally go with a larger single. Depends on how mig you want to go---dual 500HP turbos may be more difficult to package in a tight engine bay than a single 1000hp capable turbo mounted in a different location. Sequentials seem to be more of an advertising gimmick, than practical application, when dealing with serious horsepower. With the advent of the VNT GT35 series turbos, the best of both worlds is becoming more and more accessible. Now to find one with an A/R of .82 or .63 instead of the 1.06 that is everywhere...

I would heartily agree with jm's latest post: Find a Z-Specialist nearby and use THEM, don't go to a general repair station. Guys who do bread and butter LOF's and Late Model work rarely have the time and inclination to deal with tuner cars (which yours is), or early models (again like yours!). Most of the "seasoned" technicians eventually get PO at dealing with shop politics or whatever and move in with other like minded individuals to work on specialty stuff. It's the difference between going to an M.D. for a Toothache. They will give you an Rx for painkillers to the end of time, but eventually they may or may not refer you to a DDS to take care of the REAL problem! When you look back, in retrospect you think: "Why didn't I go to the Dentist in the first place?"