Tony D

Oh! Thanks Alan! One of the Service Engineers here has a project..he wants to use these Turbos on his Boat-Tail 69 Buick Riveria. Being born in Michigan makes me GM-Averse! LOL I will pass this information on to John here in Liverpool and I'm sure he can go from there without running a pound a minute on his cel bill!

Dude, it's Kpa, not Kpg! (Like Bare and Barg) LOL Yep, the 240 is an absolute value. I agree with the above, I ran 24degrees at 12psi, and was probably conservative at that, I NEVER heard ping. Plus, that is where the old Corvair ran, and I knew that was a more strenuous environment. I have been looking at the EURO-TURBO distributor...it is a Corvair Knockoff from Datsun! Has advance weights, and a pressure retard unit on it! I would KILL to have had access to an old Sun Distributor Machine to crank it through it's paces and verify what a STOCK NISSAN curve is set to regarding first RPM-vs-Advance, then Pressure Retard Rate per PSI, and Vacuum Advance per Inch Hg. This would have given us ALL some good baseline information about what Nissan thought was prudent. Yeah, that's right, the EuroTurbos didn't have an ECCS, they had what looks like an N/A EFI ECU, No Cat, No EGR, No AAR, No O2 Sensor, and a Pneumatic Distributor---and were rated at 200hp!!! Kinda tells me something. Oh, and a NEAT quirk on their pistons is a raised crown in the center of the "dish" to promote turbulence or something. They get ALL the good stuff Ex-USA!

I actually know of someone who had cam towers shaved, but it was for rocker train geometry---basically so they didn't have to run some lash pad .280" think, or run non-standard length valves. Again, that was for ALL SIX towers. I can see no reason only one would have a shim! I would call the seller and see what his explanation was--besides this needed the "bump"! LOL Photos! I want PHO-TOS! LOL

He he he he! Yeah, Andrew will give empirical datum when asked. Just ask him, he's got the fastest 2+2 on the face of the planet! LOL I think he did the dyno pull finally, so he might have numbers for you Re: Spork's Intake. From all looks, it should be a good performer.

JeffP now feels vindicated that even a Racer Brown cam needs to be DEGREED when installed. EVERY cam needs to be degreed! If nothing else, getting it "as designed" as a baseline. Then make the runs retarded and advanced to see where the most useable power is occurring---most power under the curve. It DOES make a difference!

How can you argue with anecdotal evidence like that? I'm sure they have cut and sectioned their heads to prove nothing is cavitating. It's there for a reason, if Nissan could have left it off and saved the money for the tubing, clamps, and hose, don't you think they would have? When you look at high-dollar racers that really are making power, they tapped holes in the head and made a manifold log out the intake side of the head so the coolant could cross and exit the head without having to move rear to front and go out only through the thermostat. But guess what? That engine, with all it's mods, still had a -6 Bypass line. I defer to experts, and not anecdotes.

Japan. It came from Japan. The staged throttle bodies were stock in Japan, for the tip in response the marketthere demanded. It also allows for better fuel economy via throttle position and manifold vacuum advantages. You need to learn how to search more efficiently. It doesn't mean looking through 20 pages, it means selecting your keywords carefully! I know I answered it before, and there are photos posted!

Ya know, I've swapped countless cam towers from head to head. Hell, I've evne had them in a "Big Grab Box 'o Cam Towers" at one time. The MOST that I EVER had to do was follow the Tome Monroe "Knock and Turn" method to get the cam towers to free up on the head. The towers tied together with the spray bar were from the same head, but who knows where the rest came from??? I could never see why ONE cam tower would need shimming---then again I am assuming it's a .015" shim---information or a photo hasn't exactly been forthcoming, so going further beyond "I Say-You Say-Anybody Got a Guess?" kind of discussion is to take the next step and do measurements and maybe snap a photo of the mutant. I know I'm curious as to what it looks like!

Got six KKK turbos from 5L Diesels sitting in my lap, going to the scrap bin. I am trying to look for some sort of cross reference to look up some maps. Actually, they were on 10L diesels on a twin turbo layout. From what I can tell, the part number is 5223 970 3150 The tag on the side gives the following information: Kunde: 2145034 Grosse: 9514612 ATL: 90 921 1379 Ausf: 5223 970 3150 These are in decent shape, low hours, just hoping someone has a line to an information source that doesn't show up googling for the past hour. Found a South African Contract listing them, but not much more, I don't even know if they are K26, K27, K-XX? I know the Germans would put this on there for ID, but how can I find out what it means. KKK Gurus? Bueller?

Normally those shims are 0.015" thick, and I can't see it rotating with that much of a bind in there! It shouldn't affect the lash pads, as it would have to actually deflect the cam from the tower preceeding it---I don't see that happening!

Have you done a cylinder leakdown or compression test? The stock setup like you have, drawing through a .080" to as small as a .063" orifice in the lower block hole should give you MORE than enough evacuation at idle, and going down the road, off-boost. Additionally, when you drop throttle from on-boost, the spike in manifold vacuum will be limited in it's application to the crankcase---thereby greatly reducing oil mist carryover to the intake manifold. Generally restricting the PCV is done if you are track racing and on-off-on the throttle. The stock system works fine, but if anything goes kaput (like ring lands) and you start blowing by, you can flood the intake in short order and detonate to DEATH instead of simply ruining a ring set and a piston or two (it becomes six if that happens!) If you have crankcase pressure, check your rings! It should easily evacuate through the orifices mentioned at idle, or any condition of the engine's operation---even with a lopey high-overlap cam with only 9" of intake manifold vacuum at idle (yeah, been there, done that!) Just a suggestion, excess pressure makes me leery!

I'm thinking there is no way in hell one cam tower would be shimmed without totally binding the cam, unless the towers were inserted and line-bored. Look closer, are you SURE the rest of the towers are not shimmed?

Hmmmm, watcha gonna do with that 1.15 A/R housing? BTW, the T3 used on Euro ZXT's was a .82 A/R, while the JDM L20ET had a .43 A/R (hot side A/R only). I really liked my .43 A/R on the US Turbo when I had it, made AutoX very entertaining. Nothing like getting 17psi at like 2000rpms! (1500 boost threshold at 10psi!)

no

"What people DON'T usually talk about is that Jeff's incredible gain was NOT just a DP, but a swap from the full crap stock exhaust including small pipe, crap muffler and cat, to a full mandrel 3" system with high flow muffler and cat (and on top of that wasn't the cat easily removable and replaced with straight pipe?" The statement was that he gained 20HP on a stock ZXT by bolting on his exhaust system (including cat). At least to my recollection, it may have been just the pipe, but I believe it was the whole system because all the experts said "you loose torque when you use a 3" system on a STOCK ZXT"---which Jeff proved incorrect, IN SPADES. Just another example of internet experts blather and bluster. So Jeff's claim of 20HP GAIN form his _system_ really is a valid claim. And it went in the face of what people were TELING prospective customers at the time, as well. Then consider that Jeff's goal was to size it for people to add on to their systems at a later time, and NOT have to continually upgrade the exhaust every time something was changed. He is up to what? Near 500HP with that same system? So his engineering rationale was sound, "Buy my system, and you won't have to replace it till you reach "X" horsepower." What "X" is still remains to be determined, but given his last testing at 7000rpms having the same backpressure in the manifold as the intake, the exhaust downstream of the turbine STILL isn't a restriction to the horsepower he's running. Which is the reason Jeff is asking for the tests (and for Pete to do a whole system) so he can see where the 2.5" system all mandrel bent will peter out horsepower wise. Until someone does the test, there will be no concrete number to point to saying "at 350HP, you need to go to 3" piping and system"... He went to 3" because of his calculations, but you always want to know "could I have gone smaller and met my goals?"---I mean, packaging a 3" exhaust in a ZX Chassis....well, lets say the 2.5" would be easier to do, for SURE! I just find it interesting you can see 15HP from a downpipe as "believable" (yet you chose to contest the facts as presented by Jeff when he gave a number of 20hp bump for his _system_) without claiming that this pipe also might have had something else responsible for the bump in HP... Mind you, I'm not doubting EITHER claim, I just find it funny that one was called into doubt, yet the other is "totally believable"---I can see why Jeff gets frustrated when talking about his developmental work. I mean, with the cross-posting of the identical thread, with the cost included, it really looks like a thinly veiled classified ad, but that is beside the point I suppose...

Heh heh heh, like Bastaad said on another pipe's dyno-proven claim: "How do we know the pipe is responsible for that gain?" (Devils Grin)

Yep, stick a small K&N filter on that line, so you have some way to make up air to the tank as the pump draws the level down. I have seen little facet-style pumps collapse the filler neck they draw such a high vacuum in the tank (if you have a good set of evap hoses, that is!) I replaced my Charcoal Cannister with one form a Geo, it was 1/4 the size, and I just ran the hoses out into the fender well, I put the bracket AND the new smaller cannister under the headlight bucket out in the fenderwell. Worked great!

This sounds familiar, Bravo! I wish more would heed it.

Thanks for those photos, that was close what I had in mind, but a "bolt to the turbo" configured flange where that was welded to your turbine housing. At least I'm not totally insane, and my "dimensional projection skills" are still intact! LOL

What I think he is referring to is probably going to look a lot like the piece I am mentioning about fabricating. That machined surface on the turbo looks like something should pilot into it, and THAT part is the "sacrificial" weldable part. Which is basically what I am suggesting you make up. Geez, no heat treating furnace? Maybe I gotta move to Kentucky, we got one in the shop there for fitting wheels that will fit an entier L-Series Exhaust Manifold!

Ahhh, you have a nice round machined circular area, make a mating flange and machine the housing, you got a Bridgeport, right? Same bolt configuration as the center section would be easy enough. This will give you something that would easily seal (you could put a copper crushring in the bottom of the register if paranoid) and give you something expendable to weld onto, or to even change the configuration. I guess I look at it differently, I'm figuring several smaller studs/bolts in the outer ring (aircraft ackground, what can I say?) would make an easy enough mounting flange, and allow you an infinite choice of configurations from the basic flange you have machined to fit into that register on the outlet of the turbo... As I look at that outer register area, it looks like you could also machine a nice tapered exit from that center section, and use a larger V-Band if that was desired (larger diameter exhaust). Guess welding would be quicker. Get to preheating for proper stress relief! You have the heat-treating oven there, right? There you have it, all set up and ready to go-heat, weld, then controlled cooldown on the automatic ramping feature of the heat treating oven... I digress...

normally the v-band adaptation is done via a plate that bolts on the flat flange of the back of the turbo, and the tube with V-Band is incorporated into that. It eliminates the question about welding the casting. A good cast iron repair place might be able to do it, it requires the entire casting be heated to temperature, then welded, and cooled at a set rate. Old Pete could do it down in Wilmington, but he retired last year and now I'm screwed when it comes to trick adaptations like that...

No, it becomes programmable with Nistune and/or the Romulator. the E-manage just lets you tweak parameters on the input side to screw with the injector pulsewidths. The Nistune is....ohhhhh, oooooohhhh, eeerrraaagh! It's so much more...

I believe the BHJ Damper is available with a single groov, either that--or it's available with the two different width grooves for the years...

Well, I'll parallel the charging wire tomorrow afternoon and see if that helps, but I hold no great hopes...