Tony D

Well, ran a supplementary 10 gauge wire from the alternator body to the engine block, from the engine block to the chassis ground point where the "star ground" goes directly from the battery negative post. Same thing. Hooked a 10 gauge wire from the MS Case, and grounded it to the chassis. Same thing. I had a third ground wire I left dangling off the block from it's common point, and during run checked the voltage from the end of that ground line, to the battery negative terminal. During running, this shows 32.5mVDC. This voltage represents something, not sure what, but it doesn't seem excessive at all.

Oh, I will be there next weekend to go Kart Racing with the Z-ZX Club, and show the world the dominance of "Jabba The American" and the now-famous "Inertial Driving Technique!" Good to see your shop, too! See you in a week or so! LOL Frank has the EasyJet details in his Yahoo Box, make sure he reads them before next weekend!

That's what I recalled, as well. I have some GM alternators laying around, could it be Delco-Remy does a better job at electrical noise supression than Hitachi? Lord no, even the Brits abandoned Lucas for Delco..... Right now the box is floating on the center console, but it always was before... Maybe another ground to the case couldn't hurt. I have a vice grips laying around, this might not look pretty, but it'll work...

A better response to compression would be to put the dished N/A or even the flat-topped pistons from a norma L20E in there, and be done with it. The amount you will get from cutting the head will be nil, and cause all sorts of timing issues as stated above. As far as the L28, if you can't get em, you can't get em, right! Tax class, and insurance regulation in NZ are a bit different than in the USA where engine swaps can usually be carried out willy-nilly. So to sum it up, find an L20E and swap those pistons in there. Get a late enough EFI engine (post-1975), and they will have a dished top that is in the 8.0 8.2 range. My 75 L20A with dual SU's had pistons with a slight dome to them. Damndest thing!

Dragonfly has a good explanation. Basically there were several pulleys you can have, with marks on either side of the engine, depending on options of the donor vehicle. Such is the case with the L28 engines as well as earlier cars. What I am suprised at is that nobody surmised the ELASTOMERIC DAMPENING RING FAILED and your timing slipped THAT way. On an L28, that is VERY common! Wiggle that pulley and see if you can get it to move. It may be toast, and time for a BHJ Damper Upgrade. When I get a new, or "new to me" pulley assembly, I will centerpunch a set of marks on the front and backside to indicate where the inner and outer pieces are in relation to one another. If they start moving, it becomes VERY easy to simply see the failed part, and not "think your timing slipped".... As always, verify TDC on #1 to see which mark is the CORRECT position before deciding if anything is wrong or slipped... That is quick, easy, and lets you know your next step immediately!

"too bad the L6 never got heads like that." Ahhhhh, Mack! Check out the FIA Homogolation Papers for the 240Z! You will find a head like that, FIA Homogolated, back in the early 70's. Not that one ever made it to THESE shores, but then again, what good engine bit ever DOES?

You near liverpool or manchester? I am due in to either place the 27th of this month, and in my tool kit I am carrying mirrors for a 280ZX, and about $400 worth of small bits for a boat-tailed 69 Buick Riveria... Somehow I think adding six pistons might get a bit "suspicious" but if my flight transfers through Schipol in Amsterdam, I'm sure they wil be more concerned about "other" things coming in than engine bits... The problem being at this point actually getting the parts to me before I leave! MSA is close, and I already am making a trip to Harbor Freight for Paul in Norway (gads, I'm a regular contraband artist, huh?) but the question is how long is their wait for pistons. If you want them shipped SURFACE, and can wait the 8-10 WEEKS (sometimes longer) I would be morethan happy to pick up a will-call at MSA for you, and repackage and ship them that way. Would probably run around $40-$50 US to ship just pistons, pins, and rings. I do it for Frank280ZX in Utrecht Netherlands all the time. Blast, I will have to set it up to make another trip, won't I? LOL

Seeing JP's Posts on his 260Z, I wonder if the power to my fuel pump is shutting off as well.... Hmmmmmmmmm...

"Even more exciting is if there is someone with experience in the LA area that can help me tune." What the hell, mine isn't going anyplace anytime soon, my cel number is 9092862981, I'm out by Moreno Valley, I can play hookey from work for a day this week I think... May as well get another one going while mine takes an ever deepening dump. Maybe I'll see something on yours that's lacking on mine. Besides, Xander's is in his passenger's footwell right now!

If it was a reset, I would have some direction. This SOB will stumble, then the injection led simply shuts off and the tach dies----meaning in a 260 at least, that the output to the coil has stopped as well. Datalogs show one bin where the RPM will be "0", with proper values on either side. Datalogged yesterday, and found some spiking to high limits of the rpm range? But has anyone had "dave cap" issues using the 82/83 CAS assembly? Or the 81 For that matter? I mean, tach interference is one thing.... BAH! I mean, If the clock was resetting, I could at least SEE an indication! I don't even get that! It's not a stumbling reset, just like something is freaking out the program, and no matter how long I let it idle, the dam thing will NOT get better, until I shut the switch off and then turn it back on. If I had more than a few hours every few months to work at this and keep current it would be one thing. I mean, it sat for 7 months when I was off to Venezuela, and fired right up and I drove it up to the front of the property (albiet on battery power) no problem. What about connecting a battery charger? Sometimes this causes a "runaway" spark/injection situation. I can't have the MS powered on when I connect the battery charger. Jumping it from another battery is fine, but not a charger. Sometimes..... Conductive hose would be nice! Save for that eraly on warning someone on the Yahoo Groups site gave us about conductive tubing inside the box causing problems---that's why I used Vinyl Tube, and then had an adapter placed inline to stick an orifice if needed, and then the black tubing to the engine bay. I may try another box someone nearby has. I was reluctant to use his box due to the reprogramming required because he will be running "fuel only" but at this point I don't know what else to try. I have another box, my confidence level is not high in the item. Not high at all. Man, I would kill to have resets again. At least then ther eis a problem I can see to attack. This sh*t is ridiculous! Oh, and I hate a MAF, and packaging it. I likes my straight tubes....

Well, after another year, I got some more time to play and finish the MS install. Yes, I'm still at it! Thought it was pretty well solved when I diagnosed the second Autozone Alternator as a noise / reset source. Made up my external regulator plug with diode, and this weekend finally got the chance to reinstall the 81ZXT alternator that was on the car in the first place. Problem solved, right? Not hardly! Does the SAME DAMN THING! I can run all day long on the battery. Hell, I can run at any speed I want below flash speed for the alternator and the thing runs wonderfully. But 15 to 24 seconds after the alternator field flashes, the first LED on the MS Box drops out, the tach in the car drops to zero, and the car will run like sh*t afterwards till I shut it off and restart it. As long as the alternator is NOT charging the system, the car will run. I am totally disgusted with this process at this point. After the first box died with no warning, I installed the second box, but I really don't want to reflash the chip to see if something is fcorrupetd, I don't think that's it. It sickens me to have helped so many other people get these little silver boxes running in THEIR cars. Many times talking them through it over the phone! But this sh*t is simply ridiculous! Is there anybody interested in buying three preassembled MS boxes, Relay Boxes, and Megaview kits still in their shipping box? I'm about ready to chuck it all in, I don't have the time for this kind of bullsh*t! The most frustrating thing is I seem to have everybody else under the sun working, but myself. WTF is the deal with that? I am still runnning the original MS-n-S code, have not changed over to MS-S-E simply because I am totally uinfamiliar with it, and don't need more headaches to contend with in trying to get it to work. For the time I have spent, I am sorry I didn't buy Lance Nist's System for $1800 and jsut RAN the damn car without having to freaking engineer some damn super filter for every time an electrical component on the vehicle farts and disrupts the system. I am at my wits' end to figure out what the fu*king hell I have to do to get the damn thing to just RUN without crapping out all over the place. Running on battery power is not an option, and with a NISSAN alternatorin there (with attached costs) I'll be DAMNED if I spend another DIME to buy another component. The light, as well as apparently spark and injection events just drop off after the thing has flashed the field. Unacceptable. WTF would cause this? The MS forum is about useless, I gave up on them a year ago when it kept loosing my login, and even when I placed a post, it was soundly ignored. This is my last refuge---does ANYBODY have ANY idea what could be causing MY BOXES SUCCEPTIBILTIY to interference? This goddamned thing needs to work with commercially available alternators, I REFUSE to make some super-duper effort other than the Radio Shack Power Filter on the inlet power supply line to the box at this point. What a crock of F-ing Shite!

Italian Relatives live in "The Villages" in Florida, Jeff... But you will owe them a favor... "Under Cover of Darkness..."

286RWHP at 8250, L28 .040", 14:1 CR----not exactly streetable...

Our Experience at Bonneville was as follows: Four Barrel, idled at 2200rpm, made peak power around 6500-7000 (never made it to Bonneville, only ran El Mirage because it was loosing power above 6500) Triple Weber 45's, idled at 1700, made peak power at 7500, took a few records. The dyno curve looked like someone drew it on the chart with a felt-tip pen. A classic eyebrow arch. Triple TWM 45 Throttle Bodies, idled at 1700 when starting stone cold at 39 degrees F, settling down to 800rpm idle when warm, made peak power at 8250, and made 40 more HP than the Webers at that point (8250) To get the same HP from Carbs we would have needed to run Weber 55mm DCOEs, and I shudder to think what they would have idled like. The EFI had a "quirky" curve, kinda in segments, not smooth likethe Webers, but the ability to have tractability at partial throttle to modulate wheelspin at speed was important, and the EFI had far more tractability than any of the other setups. All three setups had identical engine setup, same car, we just changed the induction system and went back to the dyno to do the usual tuning to see what kind of advance each one liked, what jetting gave the best results, where the cam gave the best results, etc...

You know, with all that has been mentioned, nobody has talked about crossfiring between #5 & #7 wires. Once it is initiated, the engien continues to run with it like that, jumping between wires laid in paralell for a distance. When I was in tech school, a Champion Sparkplug rep showed us with the plug wires simply CROSSING each other at right angles! Makes for annoying, consistent backfires. And as Moby said (like I experienced when my initial timing on the disc was set too far advanced), the engine could jump phase on the terminals, and once it's there, it will keep firing that way till it jumps back! Good Luck, M8!

I got 'em. Conversion with screw-in injector bungs for EFI is the plan. I begged off the auction when Bryan called me last time "Are you going to bid on them?" No use driving up the price. You bought the straight one I was waiting for Braap! And you drove up the price. Snipe, man, SNIPE! Save the money for other things! LOL This will free up some HKS Throttle bodies I have (that cost quite a bit more!) for another project. Originally John (the guy who is selling the goodies) told me they were 1 7/16" butterflies, so I was not that interested, but after the talk with Bryan the night before the auction ended and finding out the throttle plates were 45/46mm and the manifold end was 36/37mm, I figured they would flow equivalently to the HKS units, so I could use them for the race car instead. Intimidation factor of Hilborn Style Stacks out the hood at an angle appeals to me, but will probably be a bit much... So on to more projects. My wife will have my butt when she finds out how much this stuff cost... Oh well.

Yeah, I wonder if JeffP has seen this yet? Another relocation of the bits! LOL If it warps at all, put an expansion bellows in the runner to #1 and #6. The Sch10 Weld Els will work on four cylinders all day long. After it's all up and welded, some scotchbrite work will make that baby smoooooth, and then some rouge work and it will look like a seamless mirror. People will lust for it, and you can just laugh! Keep us posted on the progress, looks good thusfar.

From the four barrel to the Weber 45 triples, we picked up 20 hp at 6500rpm, and our power peak was at 7500 (compared to about 6500 with the four barrel) We then changed to TWM EFI (triple 45mm TB's) and gained 40HP over the triple 45 Webers at 8250rpm, meaning our power peak went higher to 8250 instead of 7500... Carbs depend on velocity to make horsepower. The velocity is ALWAYS a restriction to horsepower. With a carb you will make more an more HP as long as you keep design velocity through the venturi and keep upsizing. EFI is a bit different. First thing Andy said when he saw how much JohnC made was "I could have saved a lot of money using that manifold if it supports 287HP!) But it wouldn't have LOOKED a good, Andy! LOL

That is an Eggers and Vickers Mechanical Fuel Injection Manifold. It will not fit under the hood of a Z with those stacks on it. 1 Fast Z bought the last two he offered, and one of those was a straight model that WILL fit under the hood. They were not in cars, the guy ran them in Hydroplane Boats. Bit high-rpm usage for a streeter... I think you could buy the applicable bits from Kinsler Fue Injection in Troy MI, but knowing what I have seen from Hillborn Injection systems in use at the salt flats and at El Mirage, I'd skip the Mechanical Setup! Pills, bypass springs, blah blah blah.... Not for me! If it's FI, it's E F I for my tastes!

I will have to go check some more now, as I can't remember the runners I checked. There may well be a difference in size between castings and years. Basically, the runner sizes you guys are mentioning are around 32mm. Which when you split the plenum off the LD 28 manifold is what you find at that juncture (roughly), though if you measure at the flange where it goes to the head, it's like 35mm, but 12mm in the manifold it's 34, and 25mm in the manifold it's down in size to 32. I doubt the cross-sectional variations will amount to much---it's a 32mm runner for all intents an purposes. And is a 32 mm runner in the LD28, with a revered cone at the head to 35mm (exactly opposite of what you actually want!) I know my E88 head has been ported to 36mm at the flange where the manifold meets the head, and the manifold is mated to it, tapering to 40mm at the throttle bodies. (Street Ported)

I would bet the tests in SCC were performed in 4th gear at different rpms. That is generally how you test for boost threshold when you get a new turbo car. It will tell you where you can "get on it" and get full boost with proper response. So be cruising at say 2500rpm in fourth---level ground, and WOT. Basically throttle is cracked open so the AFM is already opened slightly. You will find the response lag from the EFI goes away above about 32/3500rpm as that is about where the AFM flap is pinned up against the "full open" stop internally. Then do it again at 3000, and again at 3500, etc etc etc... Then go from 7 to 10, and see what you get. Then go from 10 to 12, repeat. Then go from 12 to 14. If you it from 2000rpms and chart it out, you will find some corves that might be useful in determining how the turbo responds.

Actually, it would be right in line with the Maserati BiTurbo. The Dellortos have special emulsion tubes, seals for the shafts, and other items devised for the blow-through turbo application. They are actually the ideal blow-through carburettor to use in the situation, if you can get those emulsion tubes and shaft seals for sure. It allows use of a simple plenum to pressurize the throats and floatbowls, and lets you run smaller jets than you normally would in the application. If you can find an Old-School HKS Surge Tank, you will have the best engineered plenum for the application as well. No, you can't have mine, either! But I might be convinced to sell the SK-Blowthrough Plenm.........

What I was getting at with my statement was that the webbing keeps exhaust manifold heat from transferring up to the fuel rail, and is a SECONDARY blockage after the heat shield under the manifold itself. The heat shield keeps the heat out of the manifold, and hte manifold is a heat dam for the fuel rail. They work together, so yes---you will have BOTH on a factory equipped car. It's not an either-or situation. The earlier non-webbed manifolds had the heat shield ONLY, and did have some hot restart heatsoak problems. So they put in the webbing, and added vents to the hood. Then came the ZX, and another manifold altogether! I have measured those runners, and UP IN THE RUNNER the size measures the same from what I found. (This includes the LD28 manifold, too.) At the HEAD, the runners may be slightly larger, but up the manifold say 1" measured with a snap (telescoping) gauge you will find a different story than at the head/manifold juncture.