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Everything posted by Tony D
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Twinplate new will run around $1500 complete, clutch-cover-flywheel. Tilton, OS Gikken, Exedy, even 10,000RPM in Lancaster makes a unit. What kind of torque are you putting out that you are considering a twinplate clutch? The advantage of a twin or triple plate clutch is that you can stay with organic linings and get far higher holding power---and retain stock-like engagement properties for street usage. Usually single plate clutches will get balky once you try to pass more than 450ft-lbs through them at the diameters we work with (say maximum 240mm disc diameter). Twins and triples also usually have lower rotational moments, so some thought to getting the car moving smoothly from a start has to be considered---they are usually not manufactured with a large inertia ring near the flywheel for smooth street starts (10,000 rpm can add this---they make their units "to order"). A rebuild on a triple disc Tilton will run you about $350/400. I have heard similar quotes from others with the OSG unit.
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Given the information available, how many people think the lever on the RIGHT would have a shorter arc of travel at the operator interface (shift lever) because of a longer pivot on the bottom of the shaft? The way I looked at it, while the total distance moved is 10mm from one gear to "N", if you were at the BOTTOM of the hole, the linear arc you would make would be LONGER with the lever on the RIGHT, than with the lever on the LEFT which sat in the TOP of the hole. (given the same pivot location in the ears) Same as if you cut the top of the handle down, where you engage that fork lever depthwise will have the same effect, only compounded because of the proximity to the fulcrum point (follow that gibberish). If you RAISED the pivot hole using the shifter on the RIGHT, so it engaged the fork actuator rod hole to the SAME DEPTH as the lever on the LEFT (when it was in the original pivot hole), you would THEN get a shorter arc at the shift lever end. Given the same pivot, indeed the depth of engagement in the shiftrod hole will alter the throw characteristics. I can go back and measure the available depth of the hole in the fork actuator rod, too! That should allow us a relative easy modeling formula if we know the dimensions on the available rods, and can predict the throws, and where the pivot would have to be located for optimum advantage. Ideally I would see that the pivot just in the top of the hole in the fork actuator rod would be optimum placement because the scribed arc for the linear distance travelled would the minimized. This would follow with the post above about relocating the pivot in the ears higher for a shorter shift. This theory on pivot placement in the fork actuator rod would explain that phenomenon. And I'm sure graphically we can replicate it on paper!
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It's easy, Decel Enrichment to 100% on the old Standalone! It was on speed channel where they interviewed a bunch of mechanics for the WRC. They point blank asked why the turbos shot flames, and to a man, every single one of the team mechanics and engineers said the same thing: "FOR THE FANS!" They all said since they are not fuel restricted on the short stages they run, the fuel they waste on the "flame show tuning" is not detrimental in the least bit for any of the teams, and "besides, the fans love it!" One gent said something along the lines of "the fans wouldn't be nearly as enthusiastic if we tuned the flames out, which we can do---easily. We asked what they liked, and they all loved the flames, so we tune 'em big and fat for nice flames!" So there is no real detriment---unless you have a full exhaust system, because I have firsthand knowledge that you can damn well launch a muffler with raw gas in the exhaust when it ignites!!! LOL
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All I know is that I will be down at Jim Wolf at 8AM Wednesday morning to watch Calrk Tune JeffP's latest build. From Jeff's initial reports he's getting boost spool at 2500rpms... This should prove interesting! Man, it better not break, or I will have to justify playing hookey from work, and getting up at 0430 to make the trip down there!!! LOL
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There is a variation of the story I saw in Japan where it started in black and white (eeh, sepia toned) and the subtitle on the bottom of hte screeen was in Japanese, with the year "1972". It was a much smaller child, and when the Z drives through town, it was like nothing anyone there ever saw before... That may be the beginning of another Z-Related movie...I'm diseased that way...but it then flashes to the current day, and the guy with the clocks waking up to snap photos of the car... Obsessed from the first time he saw the car, as a child in 1972. Kinda like some people around here! LOL
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Surge is the reversal of flow through a dynamic compressor, done when the minimum flow for the pressure the unit is operating at is exceeded. It can snap off blades, hammer bearings into dust, and generally ruin a day really quickly. When it happens severely and repeatedly in large industrial compressors, you get on the horn while it's coasting down after the vibration shutdown. All you can do is listen while you hear the parts rattling around tearing each other up until it finally stops. This can be the longest set of minutes in your life if you're the startup engineer and everybody wants to know what went wrong... LOL
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Yeah, I had an open downpipe for a while, and flames were commonplace. Cops tend to notice you after dark... Muahahahahaha!
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Sorry I took so long to respond on the shift detent throws: For the original "B" Box Four Speed, the linear distance of the fork throw from "N" to 1st and 3rd gears is 10mm. From "N" to 2nd and 4th gears the throw is 10mm. So total 1 to 2 is a 20mm throw. This was measured down inside the shifter extension housing. For the Early "B" Box Five Speed, the linear distance of the fork throw from "N" to 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears is 10mm. From "N" to 2nd and 4th gears the throw is 10mm. So total 1 to 2 is a 20mm linear throw. For the Late "B" Box Five Speed (ZX Long Ear), the linear distance of the fork throw from "N" to 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears is 10mm. From "N" to 2nd and 4th gears the throw is 10mm. So total 1 to 2 is a 20mm throw. So basically the throws are the same internally in the transmission, regardless if they are four speed or five speed, early or late. The hole the little plastic cup goes into is VERY deep, when the pivot cup is bottomed in that hole it can accomodate about 12mm on top of it, so if one were to move the pivot up, and lengthen the short end of the shifter one could have a fairly deep arc and still not bottom out. With these numbers, and with what you guys have just posted regarding the shifter pivot points, we can easily draw out the diagram of the linkage and determine what will work with what, and how long different legnth bottom sections will affect the upper linkage linear arc throw between gears. The rod I was using, BTW, was almost bottomed in the hole on all the transmissions I was measuring when the pivot pin was installed. I think it was out of a ZX, as it was really straight. There you have it!
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Absolutely! Mr. Gasket makes a displacement tester which is basically a plexiglas tube with graduations on the side and a sliding aluminum plate inside that moves when you crank the engine over on a cylinder with the rocker arms disabled. This is how displacement is checked at Bonneville and El Mirage in impound after setting a record (as long as your engine is not within 3% of the class maximum). The shaving of the block and restamping is VERY common in Japan. I had one of those... No 33 plate for you! LOL
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Actually, the stock mainfold and headpipe to front resonator was lighter than the header... But that goes in the face of internet myth, so it can't be true, eh?
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Bah! I have a five speed from an 83 N/A Zx taken apart on the back porch right now (long ear) along with a four speed from a 74 260Z. Aside from the 260 having much beefier steel shift forks and the ZX having cheap diecast units they look identical. I will measure the shift fork throws tomorrow morning, and try to measure the total throw of the socketed part inside the shift extension. The five speed is a throwaway, so I can drill a hole in the end and measure with my digital dial caliper for some accurate information. This is what I was getting at earlier: if we know the throw on the shift fork, and we know the height from the ball centre to pivot point, as well as shift lever legnth above the pivot cnter, we can EASILY calculate by either drawing it out, or doing the triangle equations for the actual arc required for different combinations. If it wasn't 930 already, I'd do it tonight! And before anyone asks, because the bellhousings were removed to be machined for the KA24 countershaft bearing and shift rod diameters for conversions of 240SX trannies. Wait with bacon breath, guys, the measurements from early four speed and late five speed are coming in about 12 hours. I have an early five speed intact in the back shed, and can measure that one if it looks different when I do a cursory test after measuring the first two. This is what it's about, don't get mad! Lets get it all out there and look for the EMPIRICAL evidence (like some above have helped with) down for others to separate the world of subjective opinion, engineering facts, and outright B.S. spewed by some. Everybody wins!
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Says "locked LSD", does that mean it's shimmed tight, or modified as a locker? Or is it the seller calling a welded and locked differential a "Locked LSD"? Questions I would ask before I bid.
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Thankfully you didn't call that VW system "new"! My Suzuki Alto had that back in the 80's! I think several JDM Toyotas have used that style of compound supercharging, too. No, that's not what is being discussed, it's a turbocharger only system that continually has boost on it. Thing is, with the proper VNT turbo you could actually be on boost at idle! Muahahaha!
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Moly REALLLY decreases the turning friction, I have seen people literally spin the threads out of quality nuts and studs by trying to torque them to "dry" specifications. Our equipment (at work) has very distinct Dry and Lubed torque, and with Molykote we decrease the torque SIGNIFICANTLY even compared to the normal ISO VG68 turbine oil lubed stuff. I watched a guy in Taiwan pull the threads out of a $250 impeller nut after Molykoting the impeller stud, and then torquing it to the "Dry" specifications. The instructions specified "C5A Antiseize Compound By Permatex" and he substituted Molykote instead. OOPS! Just what I wanted to do, sit around Taipei and gain weight! LOL Beware on the Molykote, it makes stuff REEEEEEEEEEEEEALLY Slippery! Good Luck...
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Oh VLC Does it for sure! I am more determined to get the full download now, this IS the same as the battered old VHS I got! When that first opening sequence ran, I KNEW it was the same one I have been telling people about for years! The junkyard scene SOOOO Closely follows how I picked up my racing Fairlady when I was in Japan, it's spooky! My kid was sitting next to me watching it, and when he saw the engine, he said "dad, you have that same box on your ca-----dad, did you see this before?" Uh, no, son, this is how we lived it in the old days! This is just after the debut of the Z32 300ZX in 89, By summer it was the Z to have, and the night fighters were already showing up under the freeways with them. MAN that is so close to what I did every night, hanging out under the freeways and watching all the killer cars come out to play. How I stayed awake at work the next day is beyond me. Now I only have the first 20 minutes, cuts off just when they are coming up on theback of the flatbed in the tunnel---before "the good stuff" while he's still getting the sorting of the car done, and learning the driving technique... Oh MAAAAN! I got two other people who will kill to see this. And one is only on Dialup. Poor Bastard! LOL Oh, and on a happy note, that sendspace site had all those data recovery sites and services listed, got all those numbers and got quotes coming for the recovery of the data from the portable hard drive that I dropped back in August. Coool, photos and my GTR service manual! Now it's only a question of "how much"? Both how much can they recover, and how much will it cost.LOL
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ooh, I got the PDF, THANKS! This will cause some consternation amongst those I was stationed with there! muahahaha! Still on to try late this evening. I will wait till all you guys stop trying...LOL
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Should I get a blow off valve before I go to 10 psi?
Tony D replied to big-phil's topic in Turbo / Supercharger
I would not say it "simulates" a recirc valve---it's function does NOT return the air to prespin the turbine as a "recirc" valve would. Compressor Bypass Valve is actually the proper item to install, one that lifts and bypasses intake air around the turbine during vacuum events and lets the turbo spool while being bypassed. But I digress. The "Stock" valve IS a blowoff valve. It's design is such that at a given pressure differential the valve OPENS venting pressurized air to vent to a low pressure area, keeping high pressure air from slowing the turbo on lift-throttle. At the SAME time it also does some things with preventing a vacuum spike in the intak manifold, decreasing oil consumption during spirited driving. BECAUSE it vents to the manifold, the valve can be FAR smaller than the conventional atmospheric blowoff as the extremely high vacuum really helps that valve relieve pressure on initial drop throttle. The pressure differential at stock boost levels is over 14psi! -
There was no 05L head on the early 70's Skyline, they were all E30's or variants thereto to 1975 or thereabouts. Why in the world would you want a small valve early head anyway? Definately not for flow! And if memory serves, the 05L was a Turbo Head off the early 80's vehicles that had the L20ET---meaning almost no market for it outside a collector with another 05L head he needs to replace!
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Ive gotten up to 210mb downloaded before something stops it. Tried twice now. I am just trying to find what I need to have to play it when I finally get it complete. I thought the download would pick up where it left off, but NOOOOOooo! First time 138mb, second time 210 mb, hell, that would be 54% complete if it was consecutive.... BAH, maybe third time's a charm when I log in tonight around 1AM... I want this file....
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I got 138Mb of it, what playere are you guys using to play it? It is an .avi file, and Media Player or QT doesn't seem to be able to play it. AAAAARGH! What gives, I wasnt to watch without VHS snow! Do I have to rip this to a DVD or CD and then play it in my DVD? Whatever, someone let me know where the codec is listed so I can see what came down thusfar!
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Should I get a blow off valve before I go to 10 psi?
Tony D replied to big-phil's topic in Turbo / Supercharger
"Most factory turbo cars didn't come with BOVs for the fact that the drivers would have been worried about "that sound."" Oh gawd! Where do I start? In the DARK AGES things dien't have a BOV, then again they were draw-through carburettors and had no wastegates, either... Porsche Turbos have had a BOV almost from DAY ONE on production vehicles. There is the right way, and then the other way. You really didn't hear Porsche Turbos making "Ricer Flushes" back in 1979 did you? NO, because they properly plumbed the thing and engineered it for proper street manners befitting a car that costs more than a house. Check out the Bentley Turbo R.... And to top it all off regarding "that sound": You don't hear it on the STOCK ZXT, with it's STOCK BOV, so what is the deal! Not installing a BOV in an OEM application was simply a function of the level of the vehicles market demographic, and the stage of engineering development of the system design. Today, with proper engineering, you find MOST are made WITH a BOV of some sort, and from the 80's on, most not catering to low-cost markets had them. Low Boost, low cost vehicles are an exception, not the rule...no matter how many are produced. -
Electromotive's Control Scenario allowed a blend between a MAP signal and the TPS to allow for low speed drivability with unstable signals. Even with fairly big cams and ITB's, the MS usually is easily dampened with a fuel filter in line with the MAP sensor for some capacitance. This of course causes some lag in response, but we are talking on the range of Microseconds because of the relatively strong signals an ITB will produce. Where Alpha-N comes in is with single TB's and verrrry low manifold vacuum availability. Then you have no resolution between the vacuum you have at idle, and the vacuum you have at 80% of throttle opening. This is particularly an animal bred of port fuel injection!!! Before, these same engines wouldn't IDLE below say 2200 rpms, but now with port fuel injection supplying atomized fuel to the back of the valve head, velocity at idle in the engine is almost irrelevant---velocity sufficient to transport fuel mixture, that is! Our L28 wouldn't idle below 2200rpms with a single four barrel on it (shaddap, already!), idled at 1700 with Triple Weber 45DCOE's, and then idles as low as 450rpm with TWM 45mm ITB's! Not having to transport fuel in the airstream lets you use a FAR larger cam than ever was possible for a street car even 20 years ago. And that gives you no vacuum. So for resolution, you either use Alpha-N, or like Moby said, meter actual airflow through the engine with a MAF, and fuel accordingly. I would not go Alpha-N, it's far too coarse. For that I would go with a MAF---especially on a street car. If you are racing, however, Alpha-N may be an option, as you only really care about WOT and higher RPM operation, with an idle quality that "just keeps it from stalling". My bet is that your lap times would be slower than a properly mapped out MAF system, though. Having to drive WOT and not having tip in transition power makes for a particularly ham-handed way to barge around the track. John Concialadi at AEM would always say "I can pick you up three seconds on the track per lap with proper midrange fuel delivery", and generally, what John says, John can deliver! I digress! LOL
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All covered on the ARP Website, or in the instructions that came with the studs. They are specific about the lubes to use, and installation methodology. As for coolant passages, on the L-Motor, no they don't pass through any passages. I usually paint the studs with Glyptal oustide of the threaded portion and let them dry thoroughly before installation. No corrosion possibilities that way should a head gasket let go around water jacket, or from condensation inside the holes form shutdown...whatever. I paint everything anyway. I'm diseased! LOL
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Curiously, if you figure the VE at 80%, you end up with a twin 46mm throttle body fromthose calculations. (58mmX80%=46mm) Hmmm, what size were the stock SU's? 46mm? I guess the engineers knew what they were doing. BTW, putting twin stock throttle bodies on the SU manifolds is a very easy thing to do, just some angular milling on the bolt holes to let the SU studs fit the back of the T/B...
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HEY! I'm downloading, who jumped on and started downloading---that you GTR-240Z? Someone cut my bandwidth from 100KBPS to 50KBPS! I should have posted beforehand... DRATS, now it's tied up for 2 hours....