Tony D

By Euro, I mean EURO.... GERMANY! The JDM L20ET has the EXACT SAME manifold as the L28ET we got here in the USA. The Euro Manifold was on continental cars---the manifolds usually come out of Germany. I have had one pass through my hands to JeffP, and one that I had to disassemble to fit in my personal Clothing Bag (disassembled in the back of a Nissan Leopard, under the watchful eye of an Uzi-Toting Poleizi at Degaulle Airport departure curb at about 230AM one morning after spending the day in Paris!) The guy who was my source is no longer shipping internationally due to some developments like loosing several shipments in the Katrina Morass (tracked 3.36 R200 Ring and Pinion Sets to the trans-shipping/customs house in Alabama the week Katrina hit---then, noooothing! Like they disappeared!) He will be making the pilgrimage to MSA this year, though... Perhaps he could be persuaded to bring parts (which I think he's doing anyway! LOL) Frank and Xander---are you following this thread? I have that one manifold, with some alterations on the stock expansion joints. That coating after porting is in the works for this one for sure.

Yeah, after seeing his copy again, I tried to get it to copy on MY system because HIS dupe that he gave to me had a bad generational degredation. I couldn't even get THAT out of him! You know those episodes were 15,000 Yen EACH?????? Wow! So 80's Pricing! LOL

Screw all this "cam" and "rocker" B.S., I'm going to drive a hydrostatic pump and open the damn valves with a computer controlled electro-hydraulic actuator... DEVAS System, screw all this extra metal crap! Then I can alter valve timing based on throttle position, engine speed, rate of throttle position change, hell I can change the RATE of valve opening with that system. Cams, Rockers, ADJUSTMENT---man, you guys are SOOOOOO 19th Century!!!

The reason for the Euro Manifold is simple: The US does not have conditions conducive to turbo application for more than a few seconds at a time. The Euro Manifold does NO "warp up at the ends" like the stock US and JDM manifolds do, and will take SUSTAINED turbo usage---running on boost for hours as opposed to minutes at a time. Europe is probably the only place where you can hold you foot in the throttle and use the full rated BHP for an hour at a time! (260Kph) Hell, at Bonneville, the course is only 5 miles long.... Anyway, if someone used that stock US Spec manifold for very long on the Autobhan I suspect some stresses from thermal growth would manifest themselves. The slip joints on the Euro Manifold allow for the expansion. And if the SoFlorida Performance had similar joints, they wouldn't warp off the head 3/8" after a few runs! Remember the Eurospec Turbos were rated at 20 more HP than US Spec Vehicles... With a higher top speed. When you look at the manifold, you can see it's a better piece than the US/JDM unit, hands down! As for if porting is needed, the first photos on this post show that there are flow restrictions that need to be addressed at the head juncture, as well as proper porting of the turbine inlet housing to match at least.

They have a common power wire, with individual ballasted feeds to each injector. The grouping of the grounds need to be collected separately into two groups of three for INJ1 and INJ2. The power end of the equation is fine, you just move the grounds around for the Megasquirt Application. The spearation is on the ground side, not the power side---at least that's the way I think I wired mine up two years or more ago....

We kinda had that discussion while I was watching them... To paraphrase his answer: "No"

Yeah, if you want to trigger the IGNITON through a software upgrade such as MS-n-S then you will need to modify the dizzy so it doesn't advance---it needs a fixed signal. Most people just swap in the 280ZXT CAS, but removing the advance mechanisim and using a fixed advance plate. Many things will work as Randy Suggests: Magnets in the front pulley, in the flywheel, reluctor of the stock Electronik Dizzy modified for no advance, etc etc etc... If you are running fuel only, the points distributor with some modifications to the filtering circuit on the tach pickup section of the MS (Dave Capacitor) to use the points trigger for the fueling-only portion is all you need... if you go with a flying magnet setup, you can use the stock distributor to distribute the spark---you just want to lock the advance mechanisim so you have the ECU controlling advance. One of the advantages of the later 280ZXT Distributors is a redesigned rotor allowing a more consistent rotor-to-cap tower phasing for computer controlled spark. If you use a magnet trigger, the 81 Distributor would be all you needed for that advantage---it's nothing more than a cap and rotor, and fits on the stock distributor drive.

Just a Note. When we compared the interior diameter of the runners on a STOCK Nissan Eurospec Turbo Manifold (the three-piece unit) they were actually BIGGER than the Tubular Header JeffP had made at South Florida Performance. None to happy with this revelation, JeffP was in a funk for an extended period over it....LOL Anyway, the stock Eurospec manifold is very nice, and has the ability to porte almost EVERY part of the manifold due to being a three piece unit. Aside from the addition of the "Spacer-Wastegate" shown above, a little porting by the head for flow and I think it would be the ultimate part...factory cleaned up, cast iron, durable, and easily capable of the exhaust flow required for probably 600 horsepower. Unfortunately they are NLA from Nissan, so the only way to find one is in a Junkyard on the Continent! Very nice piece if you can get one, though! I believe the proper Nissan Term for it's caasting base metal now would be referred to as "Unobtanium"... Anyone in for casting knockoff pieces out of STanless Steel Scraps in their backyard Casting Blast Furnace? LOL

Just watched all five episodes on Christmas Day over at "my source". His EP VHS is in way better condition than mine. Man, the "making of" video is very good, too. There was also an accompanying group of films of "S30-vs-XXX" that were out at the same time using the SSS Blue and White car... But Episode 4 or 5, when they are putting the engine in the car, you realize it's an old Sangyo Kiki Analog EFI system using Two Injectors Per Cylinder on 45mm ITBs... Ahhh, progress in the matter of six hours of a film serial! LOL

Did JeffP put in his .02 on this matter? I don't think he will apologize for a rant on that subject! LOL I don't think those good ole boys there understood the concept of "Stress Relief" at all. There are some things you can do to their design to make it work, but for the effort, you may as well do the whole thing yourself!

According to the old "How To Modify" book, they saw no problems until exceeding 100HP per hole. Then again, Electramotive only said their 83 ZXT was rated at 580hp @ 7500 with 21.6psi of boost.... How did they exceed 100 a hole then? Muahahahaha! (I know John C knows the answer...)

I'm going to weigh in on the side of Braap on this one. I ended up going to a (if you can believe this) a 5-Day Seminar sponsored by Fel-Pro's Parent Company. This was in conjunction with the roll out almost 10 years ago of a specialized gasketing compound they were introducing as an OEM item on large Stationary Power Plant Diesels. I didn't think there was so much to be said about gaskets, but suffice to say we spent a day on major types of gaskets they sold, as well as the marketing stuff that always makes it's way into these kind of things. Anyway, the Print-o-Seal gaskets are (were at the time) the new Miracle Gasket, and they made it very clear that 1) No Compounds Were to be Placed on Mating Surfaces. 2) Surface finish must be compatible (forgive me if I forget the number, but it wasn't a mirror...) 3) Proper Torque Sequence Must be Followed. There was a lot of stuff about why gaskets fail, these were the top three. Looks to me like there is some detonation, and I would NOT O-Ring until you get that in hand! All an O-Ring job will succeed in doing is breaking your piston skirts FIRST, then your ring lands, and then your piston crown. Be GLAD your Fel-Pro failed, because if it kept that detonation pressure IN the cylinder, the ONLY place it has to go is towards the piston---and that means breakage. The 2mm Head Gasket is going to lower compression, so this problem may be masked a bit. In my case, I used an N42 Block, and an N42 Head with a Fel-Pro Print-o-Seal Head Gasket when I assembled my Blowthrough Turbo Engine in 1987. That engine has seen countless hours of 17psi boost levels. i worked up to that point, first starting at stock boost, then 10, 12, 15, 17.... Tried a few passes at 21 but knew the T3 was already running to it's limits. So I turned back and ran 17 daily commuting and would dial back to 14 during track days during the SoCal heat. Thusfar (knock on my head) that Fel Pro is still in there and not leaking. I had some ping due to some transitional lean issues dealing with modulator rings being the wrong size after a resizing of the plenum in 1994, but even then, nothing serious. I have overheated it during a cooling fan failure on the 60 Fwy in Rush Hour, run it lean due to a boost pump failure once, and generally abused it but thusfar it's holding it together. When it comes out and I tear it down, I'm curious to see what happened during all that abuse over the years. I did run a tad on the rich side (as most carb turbos do) to forestall no detonation, and you may be well advised to do the same. When detonating, something will fail. My preference is it's the head gasket, and not my pistons! I digress...

Just make one. You can thread a setscrew into the A-N fitting, with a drilled orifice in the center of the hex. Or screw a turned down rochester carb jet in there. All easily adjustable sizewize with number drills afterwards...

Simple answer to that one, get a 2:1 splitter. I get them at truck stops, you can power as many as four low-draw items from one cigarette lighter. I had splitters on splitters powering reading lights, fans, cel phone, gps, laptop, you name it, on my last cross-country with the Fairlady. Get a splitter, and use that WBO2!

From a stationary powerplant standpoint, I can answer that question, Moby. I had a wild hair and spent a bunch of money ceramic coating the exhaust elbows, exhaust port, combustion chamber of the head, including valve faces, and piston crown. The difference in wastegate position was ASTOUNDING! We ended up overspeeding the turbo past 24,000rpms using the stock 3" diameter wastegate, and had to upsize the unit to 4" to be able to control the turbocharger at the requsite 17,000 rpms to give us our 24psi in the intake manifold. Our gas consumption on the engine decreased by nearly 20,000 CF/Day---meaning to me, more heat was available to drive the turbine with less BTU's input. I forget the actual heat rate on the engine, but it was CONSIDERABLY lower than the other two units that were not treated to the ceramic coating treatment. Our exhaust temperatures usually ran in the 1100F range, and the cylinder to cylinder variation also was lower. So from that testing, I was sold on the benefits of the treatments. How this relates to mobile powerplants may not seem applicable, but you can see there was a decrease on fuel consumption, and that means more efficiency (or probably more aptly less loss!)

Speaking of blowing up the clutch, the 510 had evidence of the same thing with cracked bellhousing area in several different places. If you plan on hopping it up, make yourself a scattershield out of some 1/4" X 4" wide strap. You can tweak it using a torch, hammer, and the edge of a bench or anvil. Weld some tabs on it, and use the engine bolts to mount it. I wish I had a photo of the one we use on the Bonneville Car, but once you see one clutch explode, or flywheel shatter, you run a scattershield. I don't know of a premade scattershield for the L-Tranny---I figure there must be a blanket that is applicable.

Oh, one with say a premuffler, or even a single muffler. Especially one with a SEAMED OUTER CANNISTER! I watched one seamed muffler blow open when there was an exhaust backfire (a bit more violent than what we are talkingabout, but same conditions.) On another car, too much decel fuel coupled with reignition by getting back on the gas literally blew the muffler off the back of the car! I watched an BSME decide he was a BSEE one day and decided to disconnect a load sensing transducer in the pneumatic air-fuel ratio control panel while the unit was running under load. His thinking "we'll only disconnect it for a split second" was not applicable to this situation as we told him. He backfired the engine. Now this was a V16 Stationary Powerplant running 24psi boost, producing 2650HP (minimum). 10" bore, 10.5" stroke. He succeeded in launching a 48" diameter muffler that was almost 10 feet tall over the top of the compressor building, and impaling the baloney cut 24" diameter Schedule 10 stubby pipe in through the parking lots asphalt. I took some neat photos of it, but they were used in some...uh...legal proceedings after the fact which I can not discuss in much detail. Flames in the tail pipe can easily be contained and harnessed to concussive detriment to exhaust system componentry. Usually in smaller diameter exhausts, BTW. They don't flow freely enough to spread the flame front out and suppply enough O2 to support a true smooth blue burn. BANG!

10 psi is where my wife drives the car. I drive it on "high boost" setting 15+ For 12psi, there will be few troubles! Even with stock turbo injectors if you boost the fuel pressure to 45psi. You may want to source some 440CC or 370CC/min injectors for better pulsewidth on the top end. And they are far from being too big for decent idle.

Catalytic Converter? On a 1973? What, are you INSANE MAN?!?!?!!?!? LOL No converter here, and piping clean out the back in my 73 to better than CATALYZED 1983 California Standards (I got the Smog Printout to PROVE IT!) That is the way to do it!

DAMN! I just deleted the link from "My Ebay" this morning. I was purportedly a Jim Wolf Built 3.1 Stroker with an HKS Intercooled Turbocharger setup---very 80's Technology, just like the setup in the Wangan Movie on the Devil Z. Pssssssh! BrmmmmmmMMMMMMPssssssssh!

The L28 clutch setup is the same, it depends on the application and flywheel you are using as to what throwout collar you use. I set up EVERYTHING I have to use a 225mm L28 setup from a 1983 N/A 280ZX. The stuff I pull off the 240's and 260's with the "long collar" gest used in my L20B powered 510's! One collar, one clutch cover, one disc, one slave cylinder, one master cylinder. That's all I need to put on my shelf to fix ANY of my cars in the clutch area. I gotta say, though, the 510 is still working on that huge 225mm 260Z clutch! I don't think it's worn 0.1mm since installation, and then it was used!

And to beat the dead horse: "NOT ALL P90A's WERE HYDRAULIC LIFTERS!"

Yes, I will let them report on the success of the installation.

All depends on your fueling and your sparking! To little fuel, BOOM! To much sparkie advance, BOOM! This is independent of CR, this goes for any turbo application. Get your fueling right and you will be supreised how high your boost level can go! Without you specifying what flowrate injectors you will be using, nobody can tell you!