Tony D

Absolutely---there is a thread about re drilling. I had a stepped reamer made to pilot in the stock bore, and then go in straight while renaming the hole out to the size necessary.

It's a pop culture reference...TV. I'm known to be somewhat rough on Canadians, boys! Mostly Torontans....eh!

If I had to do it over...like I said, I would have bought the OEM unit.... And used the Autometer two weeks later. Really it depends what you're doing, I have a digital tach that reads out a number "8736" because I can calculate that speed against my trap speed and determine wheel spin. I can look based on my 10 second timer beeping in my ear so I can get relative change in 10 seconds. It's general with an analog gauge, it's definable with a digital. It's how I knew my Fairlady Z went 5322rpms topped out, and swapping it into the 260Z, it went 4750 rpms... At speed I don't want to have to LOOK at a gauge to get informatio--it needs to give me what I need at a glance. I love that definitive number going through the traps. For the street, analog is fine and the Defi system is nicely integrated...but more and more are going to CAN bus connectivity so integrated gauge packages are easier than they once were. For tachs and speedos...Autometer has served me well but there are lots of good stuff out there. You gotta figure out what works for you. My next one will be a reworked (regutted) OEM unit with a 10K face. I like the OEM. Look, and if it's accurate, all the better!

I've seen clean drivers go for a lot more... That's about fair if it's a rust-free example. The 260's are known to have tachs that die...budget for an OEM and stash it if you must...they won't be getting any cheaper. I installed a Silv-o-lite in mine as it was $20 cheaper than the OEM at the time. An OEM is more now, and the Silv-o-lite about the same...and I wished Id bought the OEM then and just run without a tach till I bought the Autometer to use.... Eventually when you sell it..,the OEM tach will be worth something like $1,000 N.I.B.!

This was one of the first posts in response to you originally. (Post #6 in the thread, to be exact!) NEVER use the dash gauge as a reference. They are NOTORIOUSLY inaccurate! First step of ANY troubleshooting is the VERIFY your readings independently. Skip the basics, go on wild goose chases with no end in site. What you just did now, was what you should have done before crawling down your self-imposed rabbit hole!

Cut the price $300 for a new tachometer (it's not the "capacitor")... Where is the car located as in your location that price is a super-steal.

Anybody look at what functions on JeffP's 750HP 3.0 L-Series? Hint: "it's not as big as you would think and has air temperatures at full HP within 9C of ambient..." You need engine cooling, which means radiator airflow. The bigger your I/C is, the more it takes away from water cooling capacity. If you use your A/C...even more to consider.

So it flows over the baffle and has some de-aeration time before returning to the sump.

EXACTLY!

If that was you who just called me (206 area code) I never say more than one "Hello"...just start talking and I'll reciprocate. If it wasn't you, then it was just another damnable Wood Pill Hawker and I've added them to my block list!. If you heat the copper gaskets with a crack pipe torch till,they're red hot and dump,them in water they will be annealed again and dead soft for re-use. I'm all about cheap! I didn't mention nailing the boards together...do I really need to include those details with this group? I figured no...but thought some guys do cruise several boards so no telling what idiot will read this and...

Kunigawa, and "authentic-boosting" out of West Covina... Example below: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151387726616 I was happy with the quality of all three kits I bought from them. For the bits and bobs to connect a turbo it's nice stuff. It's what is on my Suzuki Every Turbo now, in fact! Their full kit was cheaper than getting my locally made turbo supply line made in The Philippines! Poke around, they have full fitting kits for T3, TO4, GT-Series, and application specific stuff as well. This link is just an example of pricing and to get the vendor information. Cheers, good luck!

The turbo oil supply line was available new....if you use a stock turbo, just buy a new one and screw it into your adapter from the Turbo motor (screws into the oil pressure sender) Otherwise, used that adapter to service as a supply point using a -3 SS braided line, restrictor, and appropriate adapter to feed your new turbo with oil. Take a look on e-bay, there is an outfit in Diamond Bar CA that makes nice turbo fitting kits for reasonable prices, both for the stock, and some aftermarket units. I think I bought one for an SR20 GT30 or 35R it had all the feed, drain, and water fittings (banjo to AN adapters, and oil feed line) I just needed a longer oil feed line for the L6 opposed to the L4. Their oil drain fitting for the NA oil pan is kinda slick. For the life of me I can't remember their name. It was a red dragon mask logo, something like ikumazumi or something...

Are they currently in production? How many do you see every year? Do you have the money?

"Double Happiness"! I always bought Lucky Strikes in the way into Japan from Shanghai, cheapest Duty Free cigs anywhere I've been! Had my boss pick up Marlboro Red Hard Packs coming in-country from SFO Duty Free (American Packaging) - "I didn't know you smoked!" I had to explain to him how I give out A PACK of smokes as I meet customers, work with local techs... He was floored "that's a GREAT idea, you expense that right?" Uh, nooooooo I just did it because 1) it's a great cultural in, 2) my expenses are flagged for enough as it is, buying cigs is a "fire now explain later" kinda situation... He decided I should expense them from there forward. Now the smokers on the Tech Services Travel Circuit have been duly informed...and thank me for the great idea as three cigs in China is normal. That leaves 17 for THEM to smoke (on expenses!) HR, The Wellness Crusaders, and all those others probably view that as some evil conspiracy on my part...they're right...it is. My little rebellion. As I said "If I wanted to screw the company, when I did, you would THANK ME!" They did thank me for that great idea of giving away cigarettes.... Mowhahaha...

I had to put bearings and an axle saver in after this second trip! But even with $2200 in axle work and brakes all around, it's STILL cost me less than 60% of low blue book and less than two RENTALS would have cost for the same two trips! LOL Maybe we should have a 2014 Tokyo Auto Salon HybridZ International Meeting...

Am I seeing right, or is The Mighty Boosh there in the second video mounting to the safety bead in the rim, and NOT fully mounting to proper rim mounting bead seat? That looks....safe....uh..."NOT!"

"Your experience may be different"! LOL

Lift is lift...it gives breathing on the top end. Opening point of the valves...that's where the differentiation in turbo cams and NA cams will come from. Isky will put in as much lift as you can tolerate on most applications...just remember you should be aware of what your port flows, and at what lift. It makes NO sense to get a cam that lifts to 660" when port flow stops increasing at 460". You want a ramp to get the valve to 460" as soon as possible, and duration to maximize it for your desired power goals, and opening/closing events to minimize reversion. You will see most 'Street Grinds' advertised for NA 'Stage 1' add lift from stock to 460/470" the next step is adding 10-20 degrees duration. Most don't radically alter opening events and don't alter overlap appreciably so they still work fine as turbo cams. Max power? No, not really.... But better than any stock grind. You can get higher performance, more overlap (inevitable as duration increases) and lower idle vacuums...that is a big step and well over 400hp at that point.

Depending on your disposition of the donor car, a single 4x4, two long eye bolts, some chain and quick links is all you need to do just about anything you want underneath that ZX Engine. as I recall, the ZX hood is 28" wide... So cutting an 8' 4x4 will allow you to make one beam, and four little cribbers of just under a foot in length. Lay two cribbers on each fender by the strut tower lengthwise, and the beam centered on them cross the engine bay. Use a washer on a string to determine "straight above" the engine mounts and drill a hole through the 4x4. Stick your 6" eyebolt (or hook) and use a large washer on top with a bolt. Get the bolt started so two threads are showing.... Drop some 5/15" chain down from the hook to between the engine mounts, and stick an M8 bolt through the chain....should be long enough to catch on both rails of the engine mount...or you can loop the chain around the mount and bolt it above like a basket using bolt and washer or quick link. Then tighten the nuts till the slack is out of the chain...loosen the engine bolts, and then tighten the nuts on the 4x4 and up the engine comes! Ready to sit there suspended for the next 20 years....if necessary! You can drop the crossmember, pull the pan, drop whatever you want! Nice way to rehab the steering components without pulling the motor.

Same on my 73. Mechanic used a prop rod (cut broom handle) and propped the hood against Ballast! Said "Dude, WTF?" And he was "oh!" Went to move it and heard a little "crack!" Ran as long as you would crank it, died as soon as you let go of the key. You have it happen once, and you keep that spare ballast in the glove box! (And jump to help others enthusiastically as this one you KNOW!" Symptoms are "classic" - LOL

My little calling to the carpet last month shot any fantasy of a late visit to Southwest USA moot...

Where do you put the cooler now? On long hauls I got a Coleman packed with ice strapped in there, and everything else out in the trailer. I mean, now you can recline the seats almost flat for sleeping just like in a 2+2, but where do you keep your iced Road Beer?

What is your price range?

I got six, but I'm using them! Otherwise...

McLeod sells one reasonably, when Frank280ZX needed one we stopped by their place in Anaheim and got everything, flywheel, special bolts, and clutch since that's what they're known for... It's on a 406SBC making 568HP and 750n-m torque, running Time Attacks in Europe....so I guess it's a decent unit! LOL Good luck in your search...