Tony D

Upsize the BOV accordingly to accommodate the hot airflow on drop-throttle. No recirc to turbo inlet on that setup. At least one size larger than venting inter cooled airflow...at least one size larger...

CAS drive... If it's off, it was installed wrong or the drive gear slipped on the shaft. Only way to fix is a new shaft or praying you can get it right rotating teeth on the drive end.

How are you coming up with these numbers? 140/150...180/190... 200-220? Do NOT use the dashboard gauge.

Do the swap, you don't cut the heart out of a thoroughbred to transplant it into a Shetland pony...

You can't fill it more than halfway before sticking it in the transmission ... (Hint, Hint!)

Only in North America, in every other market, every Turbo Car got an Oil Cooler using those mounting parts as a retrofit on a stick vehicle is not particularly difficult, and would be indistinguishable from a stock from Nissan factory install. Especially after a few years on the road to age everything.

Actually, if anybody has priced G-Nose Hinges...most guys would say "not too bad" when looking at that price. Why do they need a prop rod when the hood has one anyway? The Torsion Springs are a lifting aid only...you don't need them. The stock hood stay (both stock & G-Nosed) holds the hood open, not the springs!

You can play around with Holley jets stuffed in the return line to get the pressure you want just to get it running. Ideally one of those fancy regulators connected to,your vacuum source on the manifold can be used. It nice to snap-throttle closed, and the fuel pressure drops quickly--helps prevent high rpm drop-throttle sinking of the floats. I digress...

Early 240's have smaller boosters. Is your check valve functioning properly? Sending boost to a vacuum booster is a sure way to diminish braking assist... Basic Hydraulic Theory states, the pressure in one section of the system (properly bled with no compressibles contaminating it) will be the same everywhere, regardless of diameter, cross section, height, shape, etc... Larger diameter piping, properly filled and bled of air is transparent in terms of the system performance, it just adds volume incrementally.

Kiyo is a great guy, he helped me get the correct lug nuts for my early 70's Wats...which made him jump out of his skin when he saw them (1972 Purchase!) As Brian said, he's the official source in USA for these rims. Everybody else is going through at least one more level of distribution & handling. "Good things come to those who wait..."

Draw-through is what needed to be stated. Run a "T" on the fuel feed to the carb, and attach the return line to the feed, using a 2mm orifice (or needle valve) to trim for 3.5 psi at idle....and that will get you going. I prefer backpressure regulators, rather than upstream restriction. Summit or Jegs has a basketfull of them.

The FSM applicable to the year has good connector "what goes where" illustrations for each major breakout. It was instrumental in getting my basket case 73 together when I did mine!

Neat... Now, G-Nose models!

That's the separation between pre 17 Digit VIN's and post 17 Digit VIN's. You would have to deck like 0.080" and then some to take out most stampings... When we would deck those Chevys, the numbers just looked "cleaner"--like you say--that was a way to tell how much the block was decked: how clean or close to gone the stampings were! Most modern engines won't tolerate a 0.080"+ decking without altering cam drive components, etc!

I want it...how much????

Make sure the Holley Floats aren't stuck down from being bashed about in shipping. Then get a gauge on the line, 3.5psi is enough..,and that's about all you should get if you had the return line installed with the orifice (2mm?) Now, you say "turbo setup" which to me means you got a huffed on there, in which case a boost-pressurised regulator will be necessary, and the mechanical pump chamber will need a boost reference line to up pressure under boost as well... Meaning "more complete information on the setup, please"...

I've done it by removing the pulley, using a seal pulling hook, and installing with a custom-cut piece of square-cut Black ABS sewer pipe which I've written "Datsun Front Seal Installer" in green paint marker so it works properly... I see you have at least two helpers, one to document via photos you working, and another to impress upon others that you indeed are doing the work! Four would seem to be a crowd!

I think this is panic over nothing. The gasket didn't cause these leaks, sloppy application did. You got a long way to go before you know. Prelubing the engine will accomplish little with oil spray bar missing.

^^^^^^Agree! Check that cam timing, stock engines unless lash is adjusted incorrectly or cam timing is wrong should not require cuts. What you did was "follow the bolt-on-list" which universally has poor results compared to well tuned stock. The power in the L-Series is, was, and always will be in the head. The stock SU's are eminently capable to 175-180 to the wheels if the head flows and and the gasses can get out. Slapping parts on an otherwise stock bottom end generally just results in starting at ground zero in terms of making the parts work together properly...behind where you were with the old stock components you just replaced! Sorry for that bad news... You have some tuning to optimise what you now have. Step-by-Step, One-by-One!

Ground off Serial Numbers are illegal. Not knowing you bought stolen property is never a defense. Not having serial numbers is something altogether different as I said---I don't know of any 'service replacement' blocks that don't come with a serial number since the feds instituted the 17 digit VIN. Most places--obliterating a serial number makes the item illegal for resale, and in CA results in the item being "462'd" meaning 'dismantler-only'... Before you go cracking on California Laws consider they pretty much mirror FEDERAL LAWS and that in many cases allow for things that FEDERAL statutes do not. If a CHP stops you, and it gets down to checking VIN and Major Component Serial Numbers (I have been VIN verified at least three times that I can think of, but never been under suspicion where they do a Major Components Check) -- if they go that far, and find no serial number, in state or out of state your car his impounded on the spot. Raising a serial number that was obliterated only does you good if the number is not on a hot sheet saying it's stolen. And if you think about it, why would ANYBODY obliterate ANY serial number if not for nefarious purposes??? This is not good. You need to get a VIN match to that vehicle from the seller and keep it with you... Vehicles controlled under the 17 Digit VIN System ARE matched to Engine Numbers, and if that engine number is not there....that raises flags with Law Enforcement. Impounding and Crushing IS a distinct possibility. You need to sort it out, and I would HIGHLY recommend you do NOT hang around any sort of 'street racing' activities---those places are HOT for the Global VIN Checks. You may recall over in Moreno Valley some years ago many Hondas were impounded and crushed (462'd) for having "Illegal Engine Swaps"--it wasn't that they were JDM Engines, it was due to not having reported the engine changes, and in some cases not having identification on the engines as required by both FEDERAL and STATE law...... No Serial Numbers should be a red flag for any buyer. Good Luck!

Something about your sunny climate leads me to think you won't have a problem! And there's always the possibility of Emigrating to Scotland... LOL I need to get back and pay a visit... Always good information gleaned whilst there!

Waitaminint! You haven't even RUN the engine yet? This is over squeezout from assembly over-application? Run it and get back to us. This is more than a bit premature.

After 75 or 76, I don't thnk you need to do that. The 79 four speed has the reverse switch in the same spot as the five speed of the same year. I think pre 280Z (240/260) had the early switch position. It MAY have changed in the half year 260Z... I have my original early Skinny Bumper 260 Bellhousing prepped for this swap along with several other later five speeds from failures set up as selling spares and IRC the switch hole being positioned identically. I would make book on an across the board change in transmission casings around 12/73 or 6/74 for the S30 transmissions...

Wow, I missed this one... Good updates on the transplant!

Well all, tell all us all a bit more about your all Holley Four Barrel turbo and all...