LoneStarS30Z

Both driver and passenger would've shot through the floor pans on impact lol. I think this one's pretty insane too

In relation to this thread, there's a "Primadonna" Z for sale on ebay now. I think it actually looks cool minus the huge wing. But for $100k? Nahhhhh. Ebay link

Honda owners lol

Wow I want that. Good luck, those are some beefy stats for an N/A straight 6. Looking forward to seeing how things go for you with the install and etc.

Thanks, I should have mentioned that first.

Wow, looks in pretty good condition! About the brake master cylinders, if you're looking to upgrade, get the 15/16 BMC from a 79-81 280ZX. Straight bolt on and bigger than what you've got now. Also check your brake booster for your reaction disk to see if its loosened itself from the plunger or not. Give it a quick search if you're not sure what I'm talking about.

Holy crap! Fatties! I would say 20lbs per seat is a close guess. When I shipped 2 SRD's, the boxes weight was 70lbs. The box was huge and was stuffed full of padding and foam, so 20ish sounds about right. Ever consider just looking for OEM seats from other cars? I got a pair of Porsche 944 seats for $100.

Directed toward Navy personnel - "Atleast you guys have cool looking uniforms", quote, the Air Force guys. Agreed with above, the AF is run by a bunch of pinging nonners, but kept afloat by all the hard working airman on the flightline. I have one question for you though that you gotta let me know, I heard the blue camo's turn orange when it comes into contact with sea water. Sounds cool! Anyways, enough caveman talk, welcome to the armed forces man, enjoy your travels and learn to put up with alot of bull, but you're gonna get to do some awesome stuff sooner or later. You'll learn to hate the rank structure sometimes, you'll be surrounded by retards constantly and you'll go through some tough times. But the steady paychecks, awesome benefits, paid travel will be well worth your efforts at work. Also like said above, make rank fast and get paid well enough to set aside the hatred for your job. I'll keep all the homosexual Navy jokes stuffed away for now

I say no way to those seats. They look no different than one you see on eBay for half that price. If you can get a steal on them then why not I guess. But if you can spend $800 on Recaro knock offs save just a bit more and get the real deals, albeit used ones. I was able to get a pair of slightly used SRD's, black with grey stitching, mint condition for about a grand. Zilvia.net is a good place to look for used parts, they have new listings like every few minutes. Just keep your eyes peeled, I really don't see why those knock offs are so much more expensive than other knock offs. I've never even heard of Yonaka, I thought they made custom softball gloves...lol.

This is what I've got. The more creative place to put the switch the better. It may not make the car 100% unstealable, but at the very most it'll create a delayed attempt and who knows what could happen in that time the bastard thief is thinking, "Why is the piece not starting"!. A few times I've forgotten to flick my fuel pump switch and my car will start and run a couple seconds on the gas left in the system then shut off. I figure that would atleast alert me or a neighbor, something. Then as the car is sitting there hopefully I can rush out and crack a skull or 2 lol. If you decide to go the detachable steering wheel route, for god's sake buy a lock that'll go over the hub. I've never understood how so many people have the NRG hub, but don't have the lock that goes over. I mean how hard it would for the thief to carry his own steering wheel and just hook it up ya know?

The crank case is vented with one of those "mini-me" looking cold air intake filters. I'll have to check the oil lines, but if I remember right there wasn't an oil restrictor at all, just a straight steel braided line.

Bumpers. Still wondering what type of blow by (or where for that matter) gives oily deposits on the hot side of my intercooler piping. Also if I was to install a oil catch can, what 2 points should the hoses be connected to?

Yes but Kaaz's seem to more readily available and slightly cheaper than Quife's. So I'm kind of in the same boat with him in wondering why it isn't done more often. But I heard the LSD's for the 240sx's 12mm bolt diff's will work for older 12mm R200's. True?

Agreed with above. I've never been in accident wearing helmet or a roll cage, but I've had a couple of instances, one an off track excursion, and the other nailing a big bump in the track during a drift event which ended up with me smacking my helmeted melon into the roof. Another reason you may be overlooking why the WRC seats are so low is because they're trying to achieve a low center of gravity. In some instances they go as far as making the steering wheels extend quite a bit farther than stock and even moving the seats mounting positions back to their desired location all in the name of center of gravity.

Traction. Where we're going we don't need no traction...

Sounds good, the stock 35+ year old gauges super garbage, so new gauges are a great ad on, and the best part is our cars have perfect mounting holes.

You sound like me when I first got my Z!!! A turbo blanket is a very good investment, I got a DEI turbo blanket slightly used and I did notice a faster spool up, but it didn't change my under hood temps by very much. Don't know if you've ever worked with heat wrap stuff before, but for god's sake wear gloves and long sleeves, your skin will thank you later. As for upgrades hmmmm, you're very close to how I am in my needs. I gotta get a better radiator, I don't like seeing my temps rise in traffic. Don't know what gauges if any you have, but some are pretty important. I'd say atleast a wideband o2 gauge, oil pressure and DEFINITELY water temp gauge. Lastly get it dyno tuned, I'd like to hear what kind of gains you get as I definitely need to beef up my tune to and we seem to be quite similar in terms of engine mods. Are you sure your Profec B is acting up? At first I thought mine was too, but is was just doing its job of keeping me from over boosting the pre-selected setting. Nothing a turn of the knob didn't fix. Get more pics man! Honestly I was a bit jealous that I bought mine for a grand more than you and yours turned up for sale maybe 2 weeks after I bought mine.

Still on the hunt. Cash in hand!

The hooters are by far the best investment in that ad.

I have a very very very similar set up on my Z and mine see's 15psi low, 18psi high and the car was tuned to run rich, so even on the high setting my o2 sensor never gets near stoich, much less lean. Also, and someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong, but the little SDS control thingy has a reading for injector duty cycle. Its says "DUTY" and has a number next to it. You will have to scroll through the readings to get to it. Give the car a couple of hard pulls and have someone read the number off to you when build boost in the higher RPMs. That'll give you a decent idea how hard your injectors are working at said number of boost. Once again, if I'm wrong someone correct me, because all along I've thought the "DUTY" reading referred to injector duty cycle. I'll feel like a dummy if I'm wrong lol. Also I took have a 3.70 rear end and my mine clunks too, so I can only assume its driveline slack.

Agreed, the turbo model of 944 seats are awesome. Hard to find though as the Porsche guys rarely part with them without charging a pretty penny.

Usually when my temps rise is because I'm spending more time sitting in traffic than I am moving. When its starts getting really hot, say maybe 95C, if I can get in motion again it'll cool itself down to 90C and below in less than a mile. But if I'm stationary again it climbs.

Lucky. I could not for the life of me get anywhere close to it, much less see it. I would spot it for a split second then lose it again. I hate to admit it, but eventually I said to hell with it. I epoxied a 2 quarters together with a nickel in between them and attached them to the plunger and called it a day lol. I will take another whack at it this weekend if the car doesn't need anymore immediate work.

Good lord, I don't know what to say other than that was a lot more information than what I was expecting lol. Thanks a lot though, I like understanding stuff like this, but I was asking what's a general rule of thumb of what may be considered as unsafe? I'm in Arizona and my cooling set up consists of a L28ET with a stock radiator, 2 e-fans (pusher and puller), about 80% distilled water and 20% anti freeze with a 3/4 bottle of water wetter. Expectedly, the car does fine when I'm in motion, but the temp climbs when at a stand still. Rarely does it get into the 95C+ range, but I would like to see some consistency in the temperature, despite the fact I'm at a stand still. I understand that when the car's moving it's gonna cool a lot more effectively from the incoming rush of air, but in my 2 previous cars, they held their own when sitting in one spot. Granted my other 2 cars had great cooling set ups, I believe my Z has room from improvement. Hence why I'm wondering, at what point should I hit the panic button in my head and cool the car off immediately.

What method did you guys try to get your disks out? I took my booster off and saw the disk clunking around but it was between the big spring and the housing and was nearly impossible to grab no matter how much shaking I did.