LoneStarS30Z

Well atleast your turn in will be.....spirited Hmmm, gotta be someway to make it work.

I got my Yoko AVS' from Tire Rack, seems like a decent tire, can't really say much about it performance wise though yet.

Lucky! All my buddies are broke a**holes lol. Those T3 tension rods and LCA look nice, how's the quality? I need both when I go coilovers.

I realize by this point you know what you're doing more than most of us here, but make sure you shield that BMC some how. I'm friggin jealous though man, I only wish I could've done this much to my SR when I had one.

Friggin insane. I need to rob banks.

Bump, I'm in pretty desperate need.

Might be able to convince him to ship. My linkhttp://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98564-msa-type-2-bodykit-300-obo/page__p__924584__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=924584

Just asking because I destroyed my fiberglass one this weekend, so learning from my mistake. Have you noticed yours flexing at all at speed? Another guy here had the Xenon air dam and it was flexing inwards at highways speeds, he had to make a diffuser to keep it in shape. GT35? Which exhaust manifold? What fuel rail and injectors? Still running on PFC? That's a whole different set up from the first one you posted!

Yea I commented way too fast, had no idea you had so much more done. Talk about coming together man, looks awesome. Man man man man, I never really considered going SR, but the way that thing sits way back there is so ideal. I'm assuming you have no real cooling issues either huh? I've always told myself if ever changing engines, it'd be RB, but I bet a top mount SR would be plenty potent. Dammit I'm so easily influenced sometimes I've also heard MSA doesn't sell CF hoods anymore. Is your air dam urethane or fiberglass? I'm gonna study your videos here in a sec.

Looks good, where's the CF hood from? Is that air dam fiberglass or urethane? I keep getting crazy thoughts of the cost effectiveness of swapping a SR, what's your opinion on how it performs?

Ah crap, my fault fellas. I thought the Type 2 was was the vented version of the Type 1. I really meant to say Type 1, vented or non-vented. Thanks for the effort though guys, please excuse my ignorance.

I don't think I can possibly muster up anything to say about that thing that no one hasn't already thought.

Sorry, was able to find and repair my mashed up one, now in the market for an air dam.

Man, what bad friggin luck. Driving I35E south, the idiot in front of me runs right over an abandoned flat tire and flings right into the face of my Z! I've found some pieces I need, but I'm still need of a front air dam, preferably MSA type 1. Like sub title says, I'll pay up for the shipping costs. Let me know what ya got before I order new, thanks!

tires-easy.com hasn't let me down before. The website looks kind of shady, but I've ordered from then 4-5 times in my drifting days with no problems.

Seriously?! I'm trying to do the opposite and get something wider, but i'm assuming your 285 are MT's or Hoosier's?

The wheels have absolutely no markings on them at all, so the actual brand and offest is unknown, but they look like Enkei 92's, but not exactly. They're 15x8/15x10 and I was TOLD they were -26 offset all around, but I really need to measure that, they don't fit under the ZG flares at. 225/50/15 tires all around.

It's an IMSA wing, I also have it on my Z.

Yea, what he said, I love how good camera's bring out the looks in cars.

Long story short, I installed my fenders flares, cut up the fronts the way they should, then when I got to the rear I decided/pussed out that my car isn't low enough yet to warrant me cutting the rear fenders, added on to that I can't weld. Well, the tires rub on really big bumps, and even worse, it's multiplied with hard acceleration. So I'm looking for some personal experiences on a place near the OKC and Norman area that can cut and weld the fenders together cleanly. Thanks!

Have any examples of your work?

Had this pic on hard drive.

Sorry I might have over exaggerated what I meant by the ammeter jumping, it's not erratic, just has a wide range it sweeps to and sticks at when I'm at a stand still versus driving at a constant rate. It's 0 or slightly less when at idle, then reads a lot higher, but a constant reading when moving. I'll take your advice on the voltmeter, I seriously contemplated driving around the block with the multimeter leads still hooked to the battery with the multimeter on the cowl haha. I see why you're so knowledgeable about all this now. I'm a weapons guy on A10s, anytime something hard breaks and troubleshooting/pin checking is involved, it's not the best of times haha.

I'm pretty those things are fast enough to warrant the giant battle wings, especially when the majority of them are track built.