LoneStarS30Z

Looks like a pretty legitimate military address for Kadena. I'm going there in June with my Z.

Found someone local with red seats. Thanks for all the quick replies everyone!

Evening gents, looking for decent to excellent stock seats to go into my Z before we get shipped off overseas. Will to pay for shipping, would prefer seats in good condition, don't mind them being a little worn, but ofcourse I'd like some in very good condition. Will also pay extra for unique colored/patterned recovered seats (once saw a black pair with argyle styled center cloth). If you have red leather seats, well....I'll love you long time.

When does it sputter? During idle? During acceleration? A certain range of RPM's? Any weird sounds? Any weird smells?

Thanks guys, guess my assumption was right. 2nd question then, is it plug and play into a 240z or will there need to be some modifications. I'll give it a search tonight after work.

I'm guessing its from a 280Z?

Perfect way to show that they're all uncovered, rained in, and therefor probably rust buckets.

I'm in the same boat, the sound this thing makes coupled with an upgraded turbo is just delicious. It's almost as charismatic as the car itself. That isn't to say if a great deal fell into my hands I wouldn't upgrade to a more modern engine. That being said, the main engine I would look into upgrading to is an RB26 or RB30 just to be a straight-6 stickler, otherwise for the price, I am very happy with my L. If I was wealthy though, I would undoubtedly explore different engines.

I have many comments about this video: -Damn it makes me miss home. -I need wiper motor upgrade or clean the crap out of it. -What's up with that Durango? -Sounds like the camera has something loose in it. -Mini-bike wheelies?

AH yes, you're right. I'm not in the country so I can't call them up, but I will try to find some contact info and maybe shoot them an email. Thanks for the heads up. Edit: Whoops nevermind, looks like they don't take emails anymore. I may just pony up the international costs and give em a ring.

Got the LSD from a member here. I don't plan on switching the gearing at all, I just want to get rid of the open diff feel so the LSD is just going straight in. I'm just looking ahead to make sure after its installed properly, its broken in properly and will lead a healthy life with scheduled oil changes. So far the figure 8 deal sounds like one of the most set in stone procedures. So for sure I'll do that, then do a cool down, then go for 15-20 mile drive, cool again then do some easy highway miles for an hour so and see how it goes.

I purchased a new Power Brute LSD, so I googled the break in procedures and time period for clutch type LSD's and went on their website as well. Their website simply says, warm the different to normal operating temperatures by driving 15-20 miles then cool down for 45 minutes. Then drive 200 miles with no hard loads on the drivetrain. Change fluid and go. Now I've heard plenty of other things before my google adventure ranging from doing figure 8's to driving in circles. One source from google says do 12 figure 8's in both directions, then 20 circles in each direction, then light driving for another 500 miles. Change fluid and go. I've also seen other sources saying light driving for nearly 1500 miles! Can any of you experienced guys give me some insight on where the truths begin and the educated guesses end?

Holy jesus, $700?! Happen to have any pictures of how they're mounted?

Bump again, would rather save the hassle of getting one all the way from Japanland.

Jesus, what did they do, just take a rough guess on its dimensions? Way off the mark. I wonder if these are the same buckets that one guy was trying to sell on here.

This is a bit disheartening, I have a set of new MSA flares at home that I won't have the time to install until a few more months, makes me ponder about buying a set that're built better.

I don't think you'll see that much power coming from a supercharged alone L6, or else it'd be done to death to avoid boost lag. Maybe there's some crazy example somewhere of one, but I've only ever seen turbo'd RB's making that kind of power. Upgraded twins would net you 500hp with proper supporting mods, the single turbo monsters are the one's that put out huge numbers at the cost of some boost lag. But once you start talking about number's as high as 600-700hp there's alot more to the equation than simply what kind of forced induction you want.

Well it seems this is actually possible, crazy. I have no idea what kind of engine management would power this thing, but maybe I can find more through some digging. That being said, I can only imagine how expensive of a project it'd be.

It was to my understanding that RB26's were twin turbo for a reason, like most other twin turbo engines being sequential. In lamens terms, no lag down low and power throughout the powerband as the other turbo kicks on. I would venture in saying supercharging a non-turbo RB25 before ever de-turboing a RB26, which just seems really awkward even saying.

You know they make those in 16x8 -0 right?

Can't fish out my reaction disk, and the threads on the push rod are seized with rust. So in reality, I only need the push rod with good threads, and reaction disk intact, I will however purchase the whole brake booster assembly if anyone has one in good condition. Cash in hand ready to buy, thanks!

On a slightly side note, got anymore pictures on the intercooler set up?

Bump again. I found a template to put over my stock speedo, but I'd have to be very detailed about cutting out what I need so the gauge will still illuminate.

I have very drafty driver's side window. Its not enjoyable at the very least.

Sad to see, but if this means discounted BBS' I might have to pull the trigger on some sets even if I don't need them.