LoneStarS30Z

How about a 280Z hood w/ vent cutouts? Don't think I've seen that yet, all the CF hoods I see are none vented.

Love how they laugh and just continue on their day.

Thanks for all the ideas guys. For now it seems that I've "patched" the problem with another new battery. The car no longer drains all it's power and starts on command every time. One thing that I've noticed is the ammeter is pretty jumpy now. Anytime I'm moving at street or highway speeds, the stock ammeter reads a tad past the halfway mark of 0 and 45+. But when I come to a complete stop, it's back to 0, and will skip a hair below 0, I'd say -5 or so when I apply the brakes, turn signals, etc. I also noticed it skipping when it's reading it's high amp reading when I apply the turn signals. I'm under the assumption that it's normal for it to tick slightly when applying brakes (brake lights) and turn signals, but I'm a bit worry about the high reading and what, if any consequences are in store for me that the ammeter is leading on to. What's your take on it? Also thanks again for all the input, and the FSM's should do great for all the wire hunting I need to do. Rsicard, what part of Tucson are you in? I was stationed at DM for about 3 years, just left there May of last year.

Ok fellas, I put in a battery I KNOW works, it's the one I've been getting a jump from this whole time. Battery voltage w/ no ACC - 12.62v Battery voltage w/ ACC - 12.27v Battery voltage running - 12.15-12.11v With headlights on - 11.95v Parking lights - 12.06v I then revved the engine to about 6k a couple of times and the voltage shot up a bit and stuck around 12.85V. That was the last thing I did before shutting the car off and starting itb ack a couple of times to make sure I still wasn't losing voltage. Next order of business it to take back this damned Optima and get something else, throw the new battery in, go for a quick spin around the block, come back and measure voltages again.

Don't want to point fingers, but I'd pay close attention to your local 240sx/350z/G35 community to see anyone sporting some "new" wheels. Good luck with the search!

Ok I gotcha, thanks for clearing that up for me.

Yes head unit refers to my cd player, and my apologies, digital gauge I meant my digital water temp gauge. I will try what you've mentioned now and see what happens, but however I have an ignorant question, by field terminal you're referring to the "power" terminal that the red/white wire connects to right?

I had the same idea as you just a few minutes ago about disconnecting things. The battery read 13.30V this time with the jumper cables. Before that though, I had the multimeter propped up still reading the battery while I turned ACC on and started disconnecting things. I disconnect power and ground to the head unit and wideband gauge. When I went from having no power applied, to power applied, the voltage would drop by around .08V and stick there temporarily. I then proceeded to disconnect power and ground to the head unit and wideband individually. I noticed when I had power connected to wideband, and connected the ground, voltage would drop by around .10 rapidly, then when I took the ground off, it'd climb back up, connect ground, voltage back down and it sticks at a certain voltage. I did the same with the headunit and it didn't have nearly the same symptoms. So I immediately thought the wideband to be suspect. So I hooked up jumper cables again, started the car, took off the cables and monitored the voltage with the grounds taken off both the headunit and wideband at the same time, but with their power wires still connected, and the voltage was STILL dropping. I took off power to the headunit and same deal. I however didn't take the power wire off the wideband yet, but I figured that'd be a lost cause. So right now, I'm at a standstill and more confusion. I'll start tracing more wires when I have more free time. But as off now, I couldn't visibly see any exposed wires.

Ok fellas, I've picked a multimeter and got multimetering, and for sure, there's a drainage somewhere in the system. I also took the original alternator to be tested, and it passed twice. Here's my readings: Battery only, no ACC/Power applied - 10.86V Battery, jumper cables applied - 12.89V Alternator, jumpers cables installed - 12.52V I took off the jumper cables off and kept the multimeter on the battery and watched the voltage slowly drop. I moved the multimeter over to the alternator and watched it drop also. With the car off, no power applied, I then checked the battery again, it read 11.47V, which means the alternator is indeed doing it's job right? it charged the battery nearly 1V. I then turned my ACC on and measured the battery, and sure enough the voltage was slowly dropping. So if my assumption is correct, the battery and alternator are working correctly, and somehow somewhere, somethings grounding out?

Well I was under the assumption that since the the regulator is gone, the alternator I pulled was internally regulated since it's run fine all this time. The MSA alternator is also internally regulated: 60-Amp Alternator Upgrade Kit, 70-73 240Z And what's more, the kit comes with that plug that would get plugged into if I did still indeed have the regulator left. I talk to Dave who made this plug after my original confusion on where the regulator was at and he said: "The Plug has a jumper and a diode that make the right connections to bypass the voltage regulator make the connections that the VR used to make. The diode keeps the alternator from powering the ignition. That causes the engine to not shut off. so it's all needed." So the regulator is out of the question, however like you've mentioned, the wiring could be suspect. I need to find a ::gulp::, schematic and start chasing wires. The more I think about it though, the more I think it's extremely odd the car starting acting up out of the blue once the tech drove it. I'm really hoping he accidently kicked something under the dash. About to go take flash light to it real quick.

I will have to try that, have to acquire a multimeter in the near future. For now I'm just going to run through everything and make sure I have no exposed wires.

So here's the story. '72 240Z with L28ET. The car has been doing great, I came home from overseas and have added a lot of parts. The only electrical parts I changed were the headunit/speakers,replaced my narrowband with a wideband, installed the upgraded side marker harness, and a push button start offered by Dave on this site. So the wiring for the headunit was already there, I basically unplugged and plugged in. So first off, the car did well and everything was looking good. Then one day I went out to start the car and got the dreaded "click!" sound. I replaced the battery with an Optima unit along with new battery cables, stick got the click. Narrowed it down to the starter solenoid, replaced it, and everything worked fine again. Then yesterday it worked great all day, even drove around for a few hours as I was to take it to get inspected the next day, which is today. So, earlier this morning, the car starts up fine, runs fine, etc. Arrive at the inspection station, the tech starts the car, drives through the parking lot to make sure the brakes work, then pulls into the bay and does his inspection. He calls me to turn on the lights, and I do so. He then instructs me to use the turn signals and I flip the stalk....no turn signals. WTF?! My turn signals have been solid for a long time now and work every time. In confusion, I admit defeat and tell him I'll come back. The tech hops in the start the car and now another WTF! It won't start! So we jump it and it works, and I drove off in more confusion. Along the way I'm flipping the turn signals off and on and they're working just fine. I drove around a bit thinking the alternator will charge the battery up. I get home, turn the car off, then try to start it. It cranks and cranks and slowly starts losing power until I get the "clicklickclickclickclick". So I suspect the alternator is dead and replace it with the upgraded alternator MSA offers. I should mention I could not find my voltage regulator ANYWHERE, so I'm assuming the PO took it out during the L28ET install. So I get to working on replacing the alternator, finally do so, and use another car to jump mine. Car works good for a few minutes after I take the jumper cables off. Then I notice my headunit won't turn on, then I notice my digital gauge fluctuating, then slowly but surely the car dies. WTF?! I installed the alternator according to the instructions, and even the picture matches my set up as far as the black wire connected to "E", and the red/white cable on "BAT". I jumped it again, let it sit again, and it died even faster that the first time I tried. Looks like I'm in for some fun, can any of you knowledgeable gentlemen tell me where to start while I do some researching?

Have you considered using an oil sandwich block? I have the Trust oil cooler kit my room, the sandwich block has 2 ports for oil pressure and temp, and 2 other port for the oil cooler lines. I also have the sandwich block that's just for 2 sensors.

Hmmm, I don't what the deal is, but I can't message, add him, or post on his wall on facebook.

Anybody have any updates on this story? Just installed my wheels and flares and I'm in definite need of wider flares.

Correct, 8mm rings into the stock 60mm holes, then 52mm gauges in the the new 52mm holes. Not sure what you mean outer edges not filling up. He painted his black so you couldn't really tell they were there.

I had the same question, I have 52mm GReddy gauges to install one day. What I was told to do is cut 8mm plexiglass rings. Here's a link to my thread. My link

High five. That's one of those, "How come I didn't think of that" type of things. Thanks!

Thanks for the quick replies fellas. I entered the magic word combination on Google and found this: Looks like its possible after all.

I've heard this before, and I've searched and searched, and it seems those with ZX's have to lift the engine off the mounts, but I haven't seen a definite answer on if the early Z guys have to. I've looked at it myself and it looks like there's enough space between the cross member to get at the bolts and slide the pan out. Unless the oil pick up in rear of the pan sticks too far down and the angle isn't good for me the slide the pan out. Anyone have a for sure answer on this? It'll save me a great bit of time not having to source an engine hoist.

Yes I have the upgrade, it was installed when I bought the car a year ago. I was lead to believe it was the solid set up, but now I'm starting to feel like a dumb dumb and think I actually have the vented calipers. Edit: Do'h!!! After seeing this image: I now know that I have vented calipers. PO did not mention this, but ultimately my mistake for not knowing the difference. On the flip side, I have a set of brand new front R4S brake pads for sale!

Bah! Thought I found my answer, but that was for S12W calipers...

Ordered the R4S, part number AP137 and they are not long enough for the pins that hold the pads in place to be inserted. WTF? Even on Porterfield's website it says "ommon brake pads for 240,260,280Z Upgrade". Clearly there's a mistake on their part, or mine. Worst part of it is that the invoice is stamped with non-refundable markings all over it. So great. I have a set of $80 useless pads. Any ideas on what's the right part number?

Just 114.3

Well from what I've learned today, only the 82-83 turbo ZX's got the T5's with the M12x1.75 thread, all the others were a different transmission with like a M8x1.25 thread. I've already ordered, but I'll take a look anyways! Not too worried about too hot or cold, I have driving gloves I use in cold weather, and when it's blazing hot I just drape the glove over the knob.