Mudge

Congrats dude, I wish I wasn't so oblivious to whatever wiring skills you have, that I somehow dont

I completely tore up the wiring harness, seperating what was un-used, for the sake of trying to make some sense of things, which is difficult with so much wiring that was not being used. Does anyone know what the green and yellow IGN start (position 5) wire goes to normally? I assume it doesn't tell the computer anything, but otherwise I'm about out of ideas. I have pinned out everything being used on the car, distributor, ignition and so on, and cannot figure this out. IGN start is not shown on either of the diagrams I have as far as where the wiring goes to.

Alot easier for you than it is for me, so far as I know you only need the mini portion of the harness, even the things I knew or didn't know that I needed though I kept anyway. I am sure someone else will chime in for you. If you dont get enough of an answer here, ZCar.com has alot of helpfull people who have done these kind of swaps also.

255-275 are better suited for a 9" rim, especially if this is a 17" wheel. If these are 15" drag wheels and the profile is tall, then go for it. 295s belong on a 10.5" wheel. 285s will work on a 9" wheel but its not really the best combo either. Many prefer a 9.5"-10" wheel just for the 275s, it all depends how much handling and wear you want. Too big a tire for too small a wheel, will not increase contact patch much, and only make what contact you have wear the tire poorly.

It will physically bolt up, and the computer wont care that you have a manual, so yes it will work, if thats what you mean. There is more than one person with an automatic computer on a manual car.

You need the EFI portion of the harness, since the number of connectors on the ECU is more on the turbo car. I am confused with your 81/83 stuff though, the 81 turbo car has the CPS and the 82-83 cars have it in the distributor, and the wiring is slightly different. The 81 also has a dropping resistor which doesn't exist in the 82-83 car. If you mean use a turbo computer on a non-turbo car that will never see a turbo, it would only serve to decrease power.

I'm retaining use of them, I figure why not.

Yes it will work, I heard there is a 500 RPM lower gov in the AT unit though, and supposedly the timing is a tad different but that I do not know for sure. There is a spacer on the back of the crank after removing the flex plate that will have to come off, before your pilot bearing can go in.

I almost considered using my frame rail cooler that was originally going to be for power steering (Camaro), but figured routing would be even worse, just because dealing with the hoses and such, so maybe someday an improved cooler but the stock one looks like a pretty good size, I bet it holds 1/2qt of oil by itself.

Yes, Konis can be rebuilt absolutely! http://www.ground-control.com could do it, I dont know who else does Konis. Perhaps http://www.stranoparts.com who does Bilstein calculations for you before sending them to Bilstein, so maybe Koni too.

Is it anything special, or can you just use regular fuel hose?

I would imagine the XBox thing should be a joke, like the old comment "if computer games influenced kids we'd all be munching magic pills while listening to repetitive electronic music." I forget who said it, but its funny.

Going back to horse and buggy days, and then the first gas powered cars, people "raced." Before that people raced on foot. But, weaving through traffic is beyond racing, that is moronic. To some extent it is societies fault, because society with parents raises kids, and so does television since its more of a babysitter than most parents are. But still there is no excuse for the way people act sometimes, you can point the finger at the TV and at the parents, but we all have freedom of choice on how we act.

Datsunboy, they come off right above the oil filter, if the cooler attachment is still there. If not, then the person removed that and put on a threaded holder for a regular filter. I've had mine off so I've seen that it requires one, as the one holding the cooler is not threaded properly for a stock filter location. They are metal for about 4" or so, and then they are very, very stiff rubber hose from there.

Chuck, I agree with you to some extent, as much as we would like to look back on the past and say how great things were, it is not always true. This reminds me of something I heard a liberal person calling into a radio talk show that I overheard, she was saying that violence is not part of human nature and has only recently entered into human conciousness. Frankly, that is a crock. As much as we'd like to look back and say how great things were, I am sure that cavemen just like all other animals fought, and killed each other from time to time. Things change, but at the same time they do not, history repeats itself, with a twist. But again, not everyone street races, not every asian is a ricer, not every black man is a 300 pound muscle bound criminal rapper, and not every white guy is a redneck retard. Lets be realistic, we are individuals and responsible for our own lives, and I certainly never drove like that stupid kid. I am willing to set my racer ego aside for the sake of staying alive, and keeping my car intact. If some car races past me it doesn't mean I have to chase him down like a dog who doesn't know any better, so again, lets keep it real - give some people credit. Even if someone has street raced, is it the same thing as the idiot above? Hell no.

Now your imagining that you know everyone on the site and thier life story, that itself is not true. I am 27 and screw around now and again, but I dont street race, nor do I speed on the streets. Just because we were all young once, doesn't mean we were all jackasses. Thats no better than saying all Honda drivers are ricers, or all Mustang drivers are rednecks. If you think that everyone leads an idiotic life during thier teen years, says something about yourself I imagine, maybe some of us were raised with higher standards in mind.

I'll try to jack up the car tomorow and take a look. I remember one battery-gauge sized wire at the starter, and one small wire probably 14-16g or so. I'll try to post back tomorow.

4x4.5" = 114.3, from there it is the offset/width/backspace that will cause problems with aftermarket stuff. Centerline seems to be the easiest way to get an 8" wheel on the car. Lots of tires, race included are available for 16x8" wheels in a 245/50 or 245/45, so I think for myself 16x8" is the way to go, although they have 17x8" also. For the 17x8" looks like 245/40-45 is common.

10 pounds for every 1000 RPM is the rule of thumb I've heard.

I planned to go, but I am trying to make Laguna on wednesday, and my turbo car swap still will not fire the injectors, so I'm trying to figure that out with what info I have and a little of what I think is common sense hopefully I am not misleading myself I am reduced now to methodology, mapping everything out on paper, to check yet once again. My car doesn't even really have squeeks or rattles just yet, so I'm thinking the body and frame is in generally good shape. An STB isn't as tough to make as a set of headers, but every once in awhile someone gets a "christmas day set" where something is just off a bit, so I hope this has an easy solution for ya.

So far as I know, only the turbo pump has a higher PSI, I dont know if the volume is different but its somewhat likely. Most OEM pumps are fine for any use, more does not always neccessiarly mean more of a good thing, unless you genuinly have a need for it.

Anything is something, alot of the system works so far as I know, coil has voltage etc etc, but the computer is not commanding the injectors to fire. I have traced back the distributor wires and they are good. The injector leads are also going to where they should, as the injector bank is supposed to fire, the computer drops a positive lead making them receive one negative, and the other is always positive (making 0 volts without car running or injector fire), anywho the computer resists doing this for some reason so I'm trying to figure out where I went wrong. To make things easier I've trimmed the harness down a bit inside the car, so I can try and make sense of things. Being such a prehistoric engine, the fuses aren't labeled either, so I dont know what is critical and what isn't. Plus it would allow me to trace some things from there. Any quirky things like grounding pin 10 for the engine to start, would be a help by those who have done the swap.

Additional oil capacity and longer turbo life to boot.