Mudge

My beater is an 88 Le Mans (made by Daiwoo, imported by Pontiac). 1.6L of terrorizing power backed by a 4 speed stick shift, absolutely reliable and has not given me a lick of trouble, plus bangs down 32-38 MPG depending on the trip, and its a hatchback with alot of space. I have it up for sale now though.

M3 for handling, Camaro for power. The Mustangs are making decent power now, but will never touch the Camaro NA, 400 RWHP is more than easy to obtain. Sure they seem big but weight is going to be about the same as the Mustang. If you compare it to a 2200 pound car though, yes its big. Lower profile, wide, made to handle where as the Cobra IMO is a terrible platform for road course use, this I'm sure explains why the Cobra R while more expensive than the Z06 still had its ass handed to it despite all the racey parts and stiff springs they put on it. I had a 97 Cobra with no IRS (the IRS is still a bit of a joke, it uses stock mounting points FWIW), and that car was excessively spin happy, where my Camaro is very predictable, and yes I made over 411 RWHP even with my old LT1. LS1/6 though, no contest, 10º smaller cam will still pump out 10+ more RWHP, and pass smog. As for the Cobras engineering, give me a friggin break, anyone can slap a blower on the car and make power, I want to see it do that NA. If you want 480+ RWHP stick a 6psi blower on an LS1, but I am not a blower guy, I want reliable NA power where a blower is more a risky venture.

T56 is .5 OD in 6th, unless you have a 93 which is .62 Go for alot less gear than 4+ IMO, even with my little engine I'm going with a 3.90 LSD, which for most road courses is actually just about perfect for me. Graph it out, and that should tell you much better than taking wild guesses. www.f-body.org/gears Dont forget to input your corrected tire sizes of course.

When I get some springs that dont suck, I'll post what I can do

Repeat Asiatech wont be doing F1 engines this year, 100 HP less than everyone elses stuff apperantly. So, instead of improving upon thier goods, we get this

Since some of thier shocks are discontinued, I'm not supprised at all. The ST rates were posted recently, and they are about as soft as a coil being cut off the stockers, which would put them about as low as well, although the rears are a tad stiffer than that.

Rear end slid out from under him, I've had the same thing happen, but it took over 100 MPH to do it, on a track of course. What a freaking retard, I'm supprised they didn't get him on video crying or something LoL, he must have felt like retard of the YEAR... Yes, the Type R is akin to a lambo

Who needs performance data, just look at those tail lights.............................

Has anyone seen/considered the tube frame chassis in Jegs?

I need to replace one studs (the big one) in the back of the R200 housing, and I need the bolts that go into the cover. Since I have them I can pull them off and take them down to NAPA to size them out, but does anyone know the length/thread/diameter of these offhand? Thanks!

A tune-up just means basic things like, new plugs, new fuel filter, etc, nothing you can't do on your own and save a ton of dough.

Rear dumps dont work, which is why you'll notice nobody runs them.

Here is some info, however its for four lug. http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3047

There are many young, ready and willing suckers out there, the import vendors must love life right now.

Don't drive it for very long, but no you wont burn a valve. Your only issue would be massive heat dumping into the engine compartment.

Bernard, I'm not sure what your saying, but as an example, if you lowered your fuel pressure you would be IN EFFECT rasing your duty cycles (which can be a bad thing, because this means less fuel injecting capability). If you raise your fuel pressure, you have raised the ability to inject more fuel into the car, just like an injector upgrade, this would therefore LOWER your duty cycles meaning you have more headroom before you hit 100% duty cycles, which is the point at which you can not dish out any more fuel. For blown/turbo/nitrous cars, 65% duty cycle is popular, for road race cars it is similar, so long as it doesn't affect your idle in a negative fashion, meaning 1ms would be more fuel than is needed at idle and resulting in a pig rich idle. For a NA drag car, 85%-90% is approximately "correct", since you are not going to be at those high duty cycles for long periods of time, the injector drivers should not get too hot, and the injectors will have no problem dishing out the fuel. Duty cycles are NOT a concern at 800RPM, pulsewidths may be, as I said above it is as low as they can go (1ms) and you are running overly rich, then it is an issue. Depending on how far that would put you off your desired mark, lowered fuel pressure, raised idle RPM, and/or new lower rate injectors would help or cure that, again depending how far you are off now.

The ID of the strut housings are different anyway...

It's got to be the people out there looking for a bargain, and are willing to let themselves be convinced that the market is scamming them into buying $2,000-$3,000 turbo kits, and now the secret is out! All you really need is this little fan, a Tornado in your K&N filter and off to 9 second land you go... I came across a guy on a board that swore the chrome on his engine made it put out 500 HP, along with his K&N "Supercharger" filter, marketing people must love these fools.

With an exaust leak, the O2 will sense more oxygen and therefore richen the mixture, yes this can explain to some degree 1) power loss (especially at higher RPM) 2) poor MPG

Yes, they are just SBC rockers, the LS1 is a new breed the LT1 is not in that regard. Short valve covers? I can tell you that aftermarket SA stuff fits under LT1 covers, its the non SA stuff which is wider, that requires modding the valve cover or buying new stuff (like Vette covers, or non center bolt, etc)

Denatured alcohol can help, but it will be rough on the fuel system, so use with caution. Never go beyond 10%, at least as a recommendation. Make sure the car is good and hot as well. These are just general guidelines, here is some stuff on emissions: http://www.carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/emissions/ One or more of the documents will tell you what each item means, and how to change the values by changing either your fuel/timing/running temp or etc Where I live idle RPM is no more than 1250 RPM, so if your truly unlimited bump that sucker up a bit!

I have an LT1 yes, but use Tunercat on that, close to 500 HP and DFI is not needed, there are 9 second cars without aftermarket ECUs. The Accel idea was for a 240Z, fully programable timing is something I miss now that I'm on a carb car, I'd like to add in some more low end timing and then of course work with WOT. So, I am stuck somewhat with a curve, it is not a full map?

The cover itself I believe has to have the fins ground off. But, I am not positive, so either play with it or look into it further... Some LSD units chatter if you dont use gear additive (with synthetic), not sure about the Nizzan stuff though.

If you haven't seen the list on 240z.org I can dig it up again.

Its funny to see these kind of warz waged on eBay LoL