JoeK

Surely someone knows this offhand. I thought I had it, but having a hard time getting the right fittings. I thought it was 10mm x 1.0 flare fittings. But maybe I'm wrong and they are 10mmx1.25? Anybody know for sure? For a 240z. And they are just double flares, not bubble flares, is that correct?

Weather hasn't been warm enough to do any painting, so I've had to move on until it warms up enough to spray the interior. Installed new TTT GTX2 front LCA set up, along with AZC coilovers. Finished up the rear brakes. Finished reinstalling the brake lines and rerouting the fuel line. Still working on the brake hoses for the rear, ordered some incorrect adapters and now waiting for some new ones. Picked up some 5 lug front hubs form TTT's garage sale. Just ordered some Honda Odyssey rotors, going to try to copy the GSXTCY R32 caliper swap. Already have the calipers, I rebuilt them this summer, along with the Z32 rear calipers. And getting ready to pull the trigger on new wheels. Thinking of getting Rota RKR 17x9.5 -20 offset. Hoping I'll be able to run 275/40 or 45's.

Probably aren't going too find many people that will tell you the LT1 is better than the LS1. One point in favor of the LT1 is that a T56 tranny set up for the LT1 is a lot cheaper. In terms of finding a donor vehicle, what about a truck with an iron block LS motor. Seems a lot of people are using that platform for turbos and/or boosting as well.

Double tap

It's a tank out of 2000 LS1 Camaro. '99-'02 should all be the same tank, '98 was a steel tank. I think the 6 cylinder cars have the same tank with a different pump, but was never able to confirm this. Others have done this swap successfully as well. Lots of ways to mount the tank. I think mine is probably way stouter than it'll ever need to be. Bars are welded in side to side, then front to back on top of those, so in case of a rear end accident, the rear crossmember isn't connected to the ass end of the car, guaranteeing a totaled car. Frame was made with 1 x 2 x 1/16" tubing. Straps are stock replacement straps. I glued cork on the straps, though wish I had used rubber. I haven't really figured out how I'm going to deal with the filler hose, but I don't think it looks very hard. Biggest issue is the LS1 tank has a pretty small filler hose and the 240Z original filler hose is really big.

A couple people have asked for something on the rotisserie I built. I'm primarily a wood worker, and wood is a lot easier to get and much more familiar to me. So I decided to make mine primarily out of wood. There is some welding involved, but its' pretty minor and could easily be farmed out, just welding tubes to flat plate. The 4" x 16" plate was bolted to long pieces of 1 3/4" x 9.25 LVL, which is a wood product like really thick plywood. Your big box store won't carry it, but your local lumber yard likely will. you could easily do this with metal plate or channel, still bolting it together if you are trying to minimize welding. To mount this to the car: At the front, I welded some plate 1/8" plate to some 1x2 tube steel, bolted the tube to the sway bar mounts, and bolts the plate to the LVL. At the rear, the LVL is bolted to the bumper mounts, with some spacers in between the LVL and the car. Materials: 2/10' - 4x6 2/8' - 2x6 1/2 sheet of 1/2" plywood 3" and 1 5/8" screws 6 swivel casters. I used metal wheel casters form HD, they were like $5 each and have worked great

I hadn't realized the JCI kit reuses the driver side motor mount, and I'm pretty sure I tossed mine when clearing junk out of the garage. I can find the motor mounts all day long, but they are just the isolators, not the clamshell part. Anybody know of aftermarket clamshells? I think there are solid mounts that do the same thing, but I think I'd like to have that little bit of isolation, even if I opt for a poly mount. To that end, it is my understanding that the clamshells are the same on both sides of the LS platform motors. But the JCI kit only uses one of the original mounts, and the other side, the passenger side, uses another motor mount. Can anyone confirm that it's a small block Chevy mount on the right side? I'm thinking I'd buy a poly mount set for the LSx and poly mount set for an SBC. Then I'd have poly mounts on both sides, and set for someone else, since I don't think there is left or right for either.

Just some light progress. Found some termites in the vintage trailer, so that has been taking some time, plus the holidays, yada yada. Got the rear suspension bolted in, and a little further along with it. Had some of the stock parts powdercoated he same color as the TTT parts, so it all looks nice and clean and matchy matchy. Also had the front crossmember, coilovers and JCI parts powdercoated. Sure makes some old parts look brand new. Been spending the few spare minutes I have prepping the interior for paint. Biggest issue is removing all of the old vinyl adhesive. I tried the 3M adhesive remover. While it works fine, it's a little slow and darn stinky. That can be a problem at my house since the wife is pretty sensitive and worried about the kids brain cells. I have been using a big rubber wheel primarily designed for removing pinstriping, but seems to work pretty good on adhesive removal as well.

Make sure you grab the parking brake cables when getting the R230 parts. Not sure you'll be able use your coilovers. You may be able to use the inserts and springs, maybe even the sleeves and such but they need to be modified to bolt onto TTT backing plates. Talk to Gabriel at TTT, he'll be able to tell what he can make work. I used AZCAR coilovers, and they just welded tabs to the sleeves.

Maybe that includes paying the camera crew

Interesting option, looks like a cool (or hot) process. But I'd rather fix this while it's still on the rotisserie. Still looking for this part. If I don't find one, I may go with this product. http://www.haganauto.com/product_p/45sq.htm

I've got one I'm not going to use. I ended up removing the pivot bracket, so it won't work for me. PM me if interested.

I think I paid $250 for my R230 w/ 80k miles. Complete with axles, hubs and brakes. That was from a guy parting out a car, but the junkyards wanted $400 for all of that. You might do better buying it all, basically the rear subframe. Even if you don't use the brakes, you can resell the calipers to the 240sx guys. If you go that route, be sure to grab the rear bake cables.

to the top

From my research, the Q45 is a R200, not a R230. But the R200 may be fine for you and your power goals. The R230 is a pretty big and heavy unit, supposedly good to 650 HP, but if you are thinking of 400hp or some odd, the R200 may be plenty for you. I would likely have been fine with the R200 myself, but just went big cause I figured it was roughly the same cost.

I talked to Gabriel when I discovered it wasn't a direct bolt in affair and he said the original kits had a lower mounting point for the R230 to the mustache bar but they raised it up for a better pinion angle. The R200 setups don't require the modification.

Thanks. I think you mean they are 2 piece, at least they look like 2 piece unless the rim is split like my old Empis were. Looked at flipping the barrel, but no go. I could probably powdercoat the centers for $200 but that would still leave the back side of the barrel needing a new polish. Seems like it would be best to sell 'em as is and the new buyer can refinish in whichever color they want.

Wondering what these are worth. I have all 4, with brand new tires. Condition is okay, no curb rash but the paint is flaking on the centers. The barrels are nice and shiny in front of the centers, but pretty crusty behind. Wheels are 15 x 7 +15 offset. Tires are Falken Ziex 205/50R15's These were on my 240z when I bought it. Car wasn't running, but they looked like a great fitment.

When installing the R230 using the TTT set up, you need to modify the cross member. Not really hard to do, but does require some welding.

Looking for the area of the passenger fender around the fuel filler. About 10"x10". In rust free condition. My car is a '71, I'd guess but I don't know for sure if any S30 will work. Thanks,

A T56 from a '98-02 Camaro or Firebird, or a GTO, (and maybe CTS-V but I don't recall for sure) are your bolt in options.The T56 from the earlier camaro's with the LT1's have the wrong input shaft. The Corvette transmissions don't work either, they are set up with a torque tube. There is at least one Z on here runnig that torque tube set up, see Phantoms build or car. Some people are also fitting the TR6060, look for Crapforum's build. There is also an option of fitting a tranny from a 350z to an LSx motor, but it involves buying an afttermarket bellhousing and cutting off the original bellhousing. Someone is working on this, but I havent seen an update from them in a while. Use the search and you shoud be able to find it. The LS1 T56 is a hard to find item, which are getting harder to find and more expensive. They cost more than a complete LS1 in many cases. Keep an eye on LS1tech classifieds and they pop up for $1500-1800. Search is your friend, there in no shortage of answers on this forum. most questions ahve been asked and aswered. Finding the right search terms can be the difference between success and frustration.

Found it, on the floor, other side of the garage. Thanks,

yep, thats it exactly. My best guess is it rolled off my bench and into the trash can at the edge. Thanks,

Its the sleeve that goes in the hole the arrow is pointed at. BTW, this is not my brake arm, but mine looks just like it without that added hole

Looking for the sleeve that goes in the top of the brake pedal arm. One from mine seems to have walked away during a refurbishment. My car is a '71, though I'd guess they're all the same