JoeK

Maybe cheaper now, but not likely in the long run. $1700 now gets you one option and you still have the other weak points. The 8.8 or 9" SRA gives you much cheaper options down the road to swap out for different gearing, parts are cheaper and they aren't becoming harder to find. Heck, you could probably sell your hoard of rear end parts and pay for the rear end swap and couple six packs...

I'll just leave this here...

Got some more stuff done. Finished the undercoating with the 3M rattle can stuff. Man, that stuff off gasses pretty bad. Way worse than painting did. I had to install a small ventilation fan in the garage to the outside, to avoid having to sleep in the dog house, as it was still putting off a smell days later. Got the gas tank in and plumbed. Supply and return to the corvette style filter, and supply into the engine bay. I decided to run the same oath the original line went, since I was using aluminum and it seems pretty well protected up in there. If I ever have a problem, I'll just abandon it and run a stainless line along the frame rail. Started bolting in the rear suspension, only to find out that the TTT R230 install requires a large notch to the cross frame. So out came the fuel line, which will need to be redone and rerouted so it doesn't go between the drop mounts like it did originally. Off came the rear suspension, out came some of the brake lines, and out came the grinder for some cutting action. Took less time than I was expecting it to take, and now back to installing new parts, and restoring old parts. Won't be able to work on the car this weekend, going to a vintage trailer rally

Went ahead and returned the Wilwood regular proportioning valve. Got the new splitter and proportioning valve combination, will have to reroute the stock lines a little, and re-flare them with different nuts but it doesn't look like it'll be too hard. Went ahead and got a new 1" Wilwood Master Cylinder and Wilwood clutch master, along with a rebuilt booster from a 78 280z, I think it's 8.5 inches.

Well, I guess I'll scrap the idea of putting the adjustable valve in the stock location. Can anybody confirm that the splitter in the engine bay is anything more than a splitter? If it is, might it make more sense to install a combo splitter/adjustable proportioning valve, like this one?http://www.wilwood.com/Images/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinder_Photos-Large/260-11179-lg.jpg I believe I can se the 3/8-24 flare nuts on the stock line,if anybody knows otherwise, please pipe up. Also, I am planning to just install a union where the stock proportioning valve was, right in front of the Tee above the differential. Is there a reason not to do this? And yes, I'll be installing a larger Master Cylinder, and still trying to figure out which booster to use. I need to confirm my research, but I'm thinking a 15/16" or 1" M/C and a booster out of a 79-82 Z.

Why can't your gauge and the ECU share the same sensor?

Any reason not to install an adjustable brake proportioning valve in the stock location above the differential? This would be for a street car, where I'm thinking that once it is adjusted properly, it won't need to be touched again. Car is getting Z32 calipers on all 4 corners.

At Bludestiny, I believe Miky is running these https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/gtx2-front-lower-control-arms-and-tc-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z with the AZC roll center adjuster, which is the last picture in your AZC link

T3 have anything to say about it?

More progress. Painted the engine bay today. Been working on it for a while, but it's also hard for me to get the large block of time required for actual spaying. Wrangled 4 hours a couple weeks back, and 4 more hours today. I went with a Chrysler color called Orange Crush, and a flat clear. Had a couple sags in the clear, on the shock towers, which I will be able to isolate and redo, but it will go pretty quick. Anyway now I just have to finish undercoating the car, something I can do in 1 hour spurts, and then get to assembling this big pile of parts I have accumulated. I've got all the parts for the T3 R230 rear end swap sitting on the shelf, along with new T3 rear control arms. All the new fuel lines to run, brake lines to put back in, coilovers, and probably a few more parts I'm not thinking of.

Looks the same as the Z32 rear hubs. When I took mine apart, getting those 4 bolts out was pretty hard. I had to fabricate a long bar to hold the backing plate, then use a long extension on a breaker bar. Once those 4 bolts were out, it pretty much jiust fell apart.

Thanks for the warning. I'll bw running 17's, so should have more clearance but will certainly check to be sure.

I'd be interested to hear how you got the body up on the rotisserie. Mine was a challenge, I used my engine host for the front and built a post and header type thing over the back and used come alongs. It worked but I'm not looking forward to bringing it back down once it's heavier.

I've got a pair of stockers with the outboard ends already cut off. You are welcome to them for the cost of shipping, if you want to save your complete stockers for any possible futrure use.

I asked gabriel about any issues he has heard of with these. He said he's already sold around 200 sets and the only thing he has heard is on the very early cars the ball joint pin is smaller, 11mm I think he said, compared to later models with a 17mm? taper pin.

The metal work grinding and cuttiing will be lounder than most any compressor. But I think you'll find that a comptressor to handle what you want to do will start at $900 to just barely get you by. And it can get really frustrating having to stop every couple minutes for your conmressor to recharge. You might find a used compressor for less on Craigslist depending on how active it is in your community. Paint sprayers and media blasters are the only tools in my shop that you MUST have air for. I use electric for everthing I can, for the reasons stated above. Used Frontiers are much cheaper than used Tacomas. Asking prices from people selling Tacomas seem to think that 60k miles and 3 years old means it's worth $2k less than what they bought it for.

So the hole that the ball joints bolts through to was the wrong size or taper? Interested to see the pic. I'll be at T3 Friday to drop off some parts and will ask about it. Maybe I'll bring a steering knuckle with me as well.

What part of the steering knuckle did you have to get modified? Would bump steer spacers have made any difference? And did you talk to T3 about the issue?

Most people are running F-body pans.

What about taking it to a LS1 tuner? I'd think you'd want it tuned with the new headers and such anyway.

Air is great. And air tools are typically alot cheaper than their electric counterparts. But you have to have a pretty big compressor. Look at the cfm needs of what tools you'll run, then look for a compressor that does maybe 25% more.

Congrats. Jealous am I. By the time you buy new springs and shocks, you wouldn't be far from the cost of coilovers. And you have the fab skills, so it's not like you have pay someone too weld it up for you.

Might be time to change the name of your build topic. You're well past "Just Starting", haha.