ZR8ED

Butt dynos definiately don't work all that well. My Z with a triple weber'd L29 and a 8k rpm rev limit (hit it in 4 of 5 gears..only 7400 in 5th) Now that FELT fast. Loud, harsh, no power below 3.5K. Estimated power 250 ish never had it on the dyno. Fast forward. Modded Vg30ET in the same car. Real dyno numbers 300hp/350tq. Fast, oh hell ya. It has a torque curve that will make a lot of cars cry..(mostly strung out Supras..hehehe long story) Now does it "feel" fast? "non car people" cry/scream/cover their eyes, "car people" comment that it is "pretty fast", and "we are going how fast?". The power comes on and stays on, no feel of a torque peak so to speak. Car feels kinda flat...Smooth almost. Weird eh? Or maybe my butt dyno is broken? Scott.

I better chime in here and clean something that is a bit misleading. Only the rear top hats on a 280z are thicker than the 240z's. The fronts are the same. So leave that part alone, or you will get mixed up trying to figure out ride height. Street car, with some fun driving.. I have used Illumina's for years on my 280z, and they handle just fine. I'm using cut chevette springs in the rear and cut stock rear springs in the front. (my setup is very customized for my car due to years of experimentation) There are lots of tried and true setups. Here is my 02 cents. Cut stock springs and illuminas. Its been done hundreds of times, and I have never heard anyone complain, unless they want extreme mods down the road. The rest of your car is pretty stock, so anything beyond maybe aftermarket springs is overkill...unless you plan on future mods like sway bars, brakes, and lots of HP. 1.5 coils. Stiffer ride, yet still streetable, it is not the "best" setup, but it is a very noticeable improvement. I ran my car years ago on the track before and after these same mods, and I was grinning ear to ear after the mods. Save the $$$ for the rest of the car...you'll need it. BTW MY experience comes from the days when a coilover "kit" didn't exist for our cars, and when it did, it was more $$$$ than what people paid for their cars, and even racers didn't "ALL" use coilovers, and they ran plenty fast, and won a lot of races. Oh man did I sound old saying that?! Goodluck!

Found a Z flyer!.. I knew I had a pic somewhere..

Meh. Big whoop. I've seen an early Volks Beetle fly at 200mph! Remember that commercial that said this is the only time you will ever see a beetle go 200mph! Its landing kinda sucked too.

You should have kept the 4 speeds. Hmm If memory serves me, the 4 speeds have the more desireable shift forks. I've got a set of those carbs..what they DO have is the more desireable intake manifold! That is the only reason I have kept them this long. Don't sell those carbs short BTW. Nothing wrong with them once you know a bit about them. Scott.

I'm with Mark on this as well. I required no weights on two of my wheels when I did my current set of wheels/tires (installers took their time to find the closest natural balance...they said. But I have had zero balance issues), but I have used good tires on another set of quality wheels, and needed lots of weights. If it is just the one wheel, then I say have it redone. It is not like you are going to be pulling these tires off again anytime soon, so take the time. Looking forward to seem them on the car! Scott.

You list the Honduh at almost $5k less, approx 30% better gas mileage that the others you list, AND it fits all the rest of your list? Let go of the rest. If power seats and sunroof mean that much to you, then your not really looking for an economy car are you? Needs and wants. Two different animals. Pick one, and pay the appropriate price. I had to let go of my ego, and step back into a honda. I NEEDED good gas mileage, as I commute 200km every day. Hurts at first, but then I just go home and take the Z out for a drive, and its all good again. Scott.

Well when I host dinner parties, I wait and preheat the oven to 300 degrees, while I coat my pan with a tree root oil found in Northern Mongolia. I make flower arrangments for the table using imported flowers with little bamboo figurines in these cool vases I found while antiquing one weekend last May...oh wait..this is a car forum..I thought I was at Martha Stewart dot com. I am a man and I BBQ the hell out of every piece of meat that comes my way! Extra beer and hot sauce! Just yanking your chains guys, though I don't get that elaborate..My wife is quite the "Martha". I just follow instructions and then hide in the den with the guys at the first possible moment.

I've been thinking about this in the back of my head while watching this thread. I see where you're coming from Dave, and I don't think it has much to do about the motor itself. You ran a 30 yr old stock restrictive FI system on this motor previously, and setting aside minor differences in that fact that it is in a different car, with slight differences in exhaust systems etc, Unless the compression drastically changed, or some other type of damage has happened suddenly or over time/mileage. (though it sounds like this motor is purring like a kitten anyways so that rules a few things out) The major change to the system is FI to Webers. As these motors are simplistically an air pump, I absolutely believe that your "air pump" is MORE efficient with the webers than the stock FI. The stock FI intake system is far more restrictive compared to the webers on a short runner manifold. You are definately able to supply more fuel AND AIR into the motor for better combustion. With a good tune, this better combustion with more air/fuel means more HP, and this results in more flow out the exhaust due to the motor running more efficently. As for the smell? It is likely that the CO2 and NO2 ratios are different, and it is noticeable to the nose. or, I haven't learn **** in the last 25yrs of playing with cars, and I'm right out to lunch on this one. I'm at least 51% sure it is not the latter! hehehe Have fun enjoying the car! Scott

Ignition system? I have a Jacobs electronics ignition system with a security system built in. If I activate it, car will not run more than a few seconds, then not work at all for a while. Just putting it out there with the limited info, we are just guessing.

I'm with Tony on this one. It is a great little (Physically little too!) tool, that absolutely works. I did find it harder to use in the bright sunlight. BTW this was also 20 years ago, when some of the "tools" we take for granted today didn't exist for the home enthusiast. Want to fine tune your megasquirt? fine, use the high tech data logging able tools. Have a 35 yr old set of SU's to tune on your own in your garage? Then use the colour tune. Works just fine. Got $$$ to spend on cool tools, then go for the new stuff. We are not all driving $100K technological super cars here folks! Scott.

Don't mess with changing lugs, just buy another set of Datsun lugnuts. Inspect the rim, and determine the type needed. "acorn" "shank/collar style" etc. Keep the stock lugs/thread pitch. My buddy with a supra mkII can simply put on my wheels, and use his lugnuts (we both use acorn style) no worries.

I like that high front shot. The rear needs work though...looks like he ran out of ideas on how to finish it up. The car has a kind of GTP car of the 80's look to it. Extreme cars always illicit extreme responses, and those extremes force some poeople to put their head down and follow the pack. Not me. I like extreme cars, and this one is miles ahead of the "lamborzinni" or whatever that other car was called. The guy had balls that's for sure, and this car will turn almost every head on the road! This Z will never win at a car show, yet everyone will come up and talk to the guy, and will be the most popular site at the show! Scott.

Simple answer is anything that "sticks out" in the air stream is going to increase drag. That goes for the flares and any additional tire sticking out. Several of us here have been working/worked on blocking the "exposed" portion of the treads of the tires. Most flares and air dams do not fully block the front of the tires (the front wheels or back wheels.) There are several threads in this section about it. Scott.

Well I certainly don't have specific answers, nor am I an engine builder, but I have learned a thing or to about making HP AND RELIABILITY. For starters, in an N/A configuration (which is what this topic is about)you are just not going to hit 400HP with "bolt ons" Well designed bolts ons will get you part way there, and offer some level of reliability, but it is experience and know how with some trial and error that is going to get you the hp your looking for. Here is an example, and the names are changed to protect them. This was many moons ago (20 years now), when kits like coil overs were super rare, and even more expensive, and a volvo caliper was a major improvement in braking (look that one up boys). Many racers also made their own custom parts. Friend A has his own race car. He is a Mechanical/Pnematical engineer, with strong computer and electrical education builds and his own race car. Builds his own motors, does his own machining, even creates/fabricates his own parts. Blows up 3 motors in 1 season with more DNF's than finishes(gt2 series) Friend B has no mechanical background, but at least 20 years of building/racing. He Uses "some" junkyard parts, but has an eye for detail, and understands how to make reliable hp. Builds motors with less compression, but focuses on balancing, VE (volumetric efficency) specifically with the cyl head. Makes far more hp and doesn't blow up a motor during the season. (same gt2 race series) and takes first place for the year as well as a few track records. See where this is going? Text book rebuilds (fsm style) don't make for winning high performance race engines. Change in a few "go fast" parts does not magically make a 150hp motor put out 400hp. Friend B explained to me that the secret to Z engines is all in the cylinder head. Everything else is a support system. If you could make 400hp in the combustion chambers doesn't help much if you use up 100+ hp trying to make the 400!(VE), then use another 100HP to get it to the wheels. (not real numbers. just for example only) I sold my 5 year old abused inline L29 with 10.5:1 compression and 185psi avg across all cyl to a guy in LA, who dropped it in a STOCK original 70 240, and ran an untuned 13.0 1/4 mile first time out!! Can you guess which friend built my motor? These guys have learned how to PREPARE the parts to support making 400hp. That is likely why they are not running insane compression. They are maximizing the VE of the engine, so the hp they make is not wasted making heat, and working harder than it should to make the internals move. These types of mods are in the opposite direction of "cheap" The labour and experience/research (trial and error) is what you are paying for. I think finding specific answers to "how'd they do it?" difficult at best, as some people may not want to share their secrets. It is a very interesting thread, as well as the original thread.

Forget the camera and get this. Solid state. small easy to mount. Built for cars, bikes, skydiving, watersports etc http://www.revzilla.com/product/gopro-motorsport-hero-wide-5-mgpix-digital-camera#

Well here is some experienced opinion. 20+ years of modding my Z. A number that I have in my head is about the 250 rwhp mark. It is enough to light the tires, but not so powerful to instantly rip up your 30yr old suspension. Don't get me wrong, you can easily break stuff, but anything much above 300hp, and your suspension/driveline/brakes better be in tip top, and at least mildly modded, or your reliability will go down the proverbial toilet. I believe I had the most fun with my z with 200ish rwph, and mild suspension/brake mods. Dead reliable, and would out handle 90% of anything on the street, and at least faster than 75% of the cars out there as well. Minimal investement, maximum reliablity, and able to drive the car 9/10th's without worry about exploding into a fiery hellish death...At 400+hp, one slip of the throttle, and it can be accident time, and you better KNOW how to handle a car. Ok ok so I am being a bit over the top, just trying to get the general idea across.

These old cars respond very well to new parts! Looks good!

Doesn't the little black box tell the story about what happened? Once the car hit something (cop car for ex) doesn't the ecu save all data for last moments before? It should be able to tell if it had the brakes applied, speed etc????

Driving around with the car fully primered would be bad. Primer does protect the metal, BUT it needs protection itself. Usually by the topcoat and clearcoat. Primer doesn't contain UV inhibitors/blockers FYI. Get some colour match rattle can paint made from a local paint supplier (uap, Napa, carquest etc) under $30 for a can. It will help protect the primer, and look way better in the meantime.

Yup. Better than a 50hp "NOS" sticker on the back of the car! I was doing some bench racing with myself, and I've got the car up to about 450HP to the wheels! As soon as I get it on the dyno, and upgrade my injectors, and maybe a mandrel bent custom intake, do some more tuning, and only have about 5% drivetrain loss when I buy that reduced friction tranny oil, that reduces friction by up to 70% (it said so on the bottle at the store) The race was going really well, until I mentioned this guy I know who has a friend who's uncle has a Nova with 1200hp and runs 5's on the street!. Shoot..I lost the race. I now remove my tongue which was firmly in my cheek! It's almost spring guys!!! Bench racing season is about to end. Back to reality. Scott.

Lots and lots! These motors are torque monsters. I made 300hp and 350 ft/lbs on a crush bent 2.5" exhaust, volvo truck intercooler, and a piggyback ecu. May not sound like much, but it made 200hp and almost 300ft/lbs before 3000rpm. t3/t4 hybrid at 15psi at that time. With my new intercooler, 3" ss exhaust, and megasquirt, the power curve feels even "flatter" and I don't mean slow. It feels like it pulls as hard at 3k as it does at redline. No peaks in my power curve, nice and broad.

Read the aero forum threads. You don't need a giant radiator of death. I have read constantly about guys buying the big aluminum rad, that is just a "tich" to big to fit in an S30, so they make it fit. I bought the next size down, have lots of clearance and made installing it a breeze. I have zero cooling issues. BTW keep in mind the position of the rad hose routing from the engine. They are both on the same side. I wish I had remembered that when I got my new rad. Would have been a little bit easier for the rad hose. Take your time and think your project through whether you go vg, L, or v8. Lots of options, just don't get caught up in constantly changing your plans. It always costs$$$

I know what you mean Jason! It was 14 degrees when I got home from work yesturday. The Z has no interior in it while I continue to clean it up, so I had to suffer with my new toy. I dropped the top and went for a drive. I was not the only cab on the road with the top down! It also happened to be my first drive with the top down! Sure felt nice in sun! I'm going to love driving this car! Handles beautiful too! Scott.