jp 280

You want to be looking for a 3 peice wheel, that way you can pretty much chose your offset, i think i got a negative 20 on the front and a negative 17 on the back, i also have coil overs and used 5 stud hubs from modern motorsport they pushed the fronts out further. i have 10"s on the front and 12"s on the back and no they dont fit under the guards.

If i remember right you can fit a wider wheel on the front with the standard suspension as the standard sprring sits quite high and the adjustable spring comes down lower, personaly i like the second lot of wheels too, im not sure what offsett you need but more then likely it will still be around the zero mark.

Sweet, im glad it got sorted

How soon do you need the measurement? i can try find out on monday, i just have to call the guys working on my car.

Try Central 20, i heard that they will convert your original one if you can send it to them, even though there web page says they are no longer available, its worth a try 10 000rpm and 300km http://www.central20.co.jp/goods/index.html

Make sure you post up heaps of pics of you RHD conversion, do a search on here for Trust or Greddy manifold, i know its there it was only about 6 months ago it was discussed, it is still a good price for the manifold considering you got the wastegate as well, i payed alot more for the single turbo version(brand new though). I have a few pictures of it mounted to an engine but not in a car, so if you want them send me an email and ill send them through to you.

Glenn, do you still have a hand brake set up on the rear?

Hey George, i got the same rail as that a while ago, the bottom side of the rail is offset so the the new type of injectors can be mounted centrally without the wiring clips hitting the to, but you will need someone to drill the correct holes for the injectors you get as well as the manifold, you will also need to make some brackets to hold it to the manifold, the fittings you need to suit the hole in the end of the rail is a metric 18mm (i got a 18x1.5 speedflow fitting) hope that helps a little.

If you need to know anything, message me, ive done it to my car, Ross at Modern Motorsport can do the hubs for you, just email him and talk to him

Shipping was cheap i didnt need that sister of mine anyway, haha

At the moment im thinking about having a local performance shop build me a new engine after the body work is finished, i would have to measure the pipes on the manifold but im sure its not equal and im also looking at using a trust/mitsi turbo to make the install easier as we are having problems with the engine mount and intake pipe. We are planning the car to look like your original drawings but with no rear wing (sorry im just not a fan of many wings except on a GTiR and the Do-luck wing for the R34 GTR) there has been no price set as two old work mates of my dads are doing the job, they will be doing all the work except bumpers and sideskirts as these will need to be made from fibre glass (or similar material) door handles, arial etc will be removed, i also have a few patches of metal the needs repairs. So keep an eye out over the next few weeks as the cars leaves in one week to be started and i will be posting pictures as we go. The price for the manifold was in New Zealand dollars.

The manifold is made by Trust Japan, do a search as it has been talked about before, and im sure it dosent fit left hand drive cars i paid somewhere between $3000 - $3500. The turbo is a Garrett GT35/40, but im looking at getting a T78 or T88 trust turbo so it will mount to the manifold without the adapter.

Another way if thinking of it. Warming the throttle body with collant will in effect bring it up to say 90deg. Id think of this as also stabilising the intake temps, for a consitant power in any outside running conditions. Of corse none of us want that. I love cool outside temps

You will find a small noid/block notch for a dipstick to be installed if your using a foward bowl sump. It does run thru the oil delivery feed for the rear oil pickup. But that isnt a problem if you are drilling the front oil pickup boss. Well as you dont need the rear pickup anymore.

Cheers guys, the car is about to go to have the body widened very soon, so i should have some decent pictures then im just waiting for the last hub to come back from the engineers with the brakes all set up and some new rotors for the rear. Thanks again for all the nice coments.

The engine is just standard with just a few bolt on parts, the bottom end has been rebuilt but i have now changed my mind and want to try a 3.0L so i have a spare engine for that and will hopefully sell this one, the head hasnt been touched yet.

Thanks for all the kind words guys, the wheels around 125mm (5") from the outside to the face of the centre and believe it or not these are second hand but they dont have a scratch on them and i got the full set with basically new tyres for $2500 nzd (roughly $1650 usd). Specs on the car arnt much yet but are slowly getting there: 83 280Z Fairlady (imported into NewZealand) engine has been rebuilt just to to standard specs at the moment (well just the bottom end, the head hasnt been touched yet) has a Trust/Greddy stainless manifold with a GT35/40 turbo and Trust type R wastegate, Trust 100mm thick drag spec intercooler, Trust type R b.o.v, 60mm throttle body. The interior now has a pair of fixed back Racetech 4000W seats, Trust turbo timer, exhaust temp, boost and temp gauges. The suspension is fully adjustable Koni coilovers with King springs, all new poly bushes and adjustable camber plates on the front. The front brakes are now willwood 4 pot calipers with 12.75" rotors mounted on 5 stud hubs from modern motor sports. The gearbox is a Skyline GTR box converted to rear wheel drive. A lot of these parts havent even been put on the car yet, and we still have a long way to go. heres a couple more pics

Cheers guys, ill try put some more pics up tonight, i am about to have the body widened to get the car looking like Drftn280zxt's drawings he did, at the moment the fronts hit on the bottom of the gaurds, but we need to come out up to 70mm to clear the wheels

Firstly i would like to thank Drftn280zxt for his great drawings and the insperation to lead my car in the direction it is going, the wheels are Work Equips 18x10 on the front and 18x12 on the rear, by memory the wheels have -33 offset on the fronts and -20 on the rears.

I just had my car in for dyno tuning and had to replace my brand new Bosch/MSD regulator as it was fluctuating to much and out of all the regulators he felt that he would trust the Sard regulator, the SX regulator and one more i thik it was the Weldon regulator, after talking to others im not the first to have problems with the bosch one so i would stay away from that

I used Racetech 4000 series seats, with there seat brackets they fit on the standard S130 seat runners, if i remember right i redrilled the holes and added a spacer as there are steps in the S130 runners. The seats needed the shoulder wing area cut down as they hit on the doors

Well i still plan to build my car into something similar to what you have drawn so far (the company i was going to use are a bit hard to get work done due to the huge amount of people after there services, so ive found someone new to widen the gaurds and doors). Anyway i managed to pick up a set of Work Equips they have a 5" lip the fronts are 18 x 10" wide with a -33mm offset and the rears are 18 x 12" with a -20mm offset. If you want a picture pm me your email addy and ill send it through, im just waiting on my brakes to come back from the engineers so i can bolt them all on and get it back on the ground, hopefully its not to far away before its all underway. and the pics are looking great keep up the good work.

yup mine has one, takes the window all the way up or down, its in my 83 fairlady.

im not a expert or anything, but in tests done in magazines it was proven that it was better to face them to the rear of the vehicle, ive build a lot of MDF boxes and they have always sounded better facing the rear. anyway back on topic it looks like your doing a great job and i cant wait to see the end result.

can be made easier by using a L series diesel bell housing which uses the same larger bearings as the RB20 box, that was my last project but for strength im moving up to the RB25DET box and having an adapter made.