jp 280

It's been a while since I've anything done to my car due to life getting in the way, however I made an effort to save some money and get some Fab work done. So far thanks to the great guys at Kaizen works here in New Zealand an R33 rear subframe has been mounted into my 280zx with custom mounting points fabbed up but everything else is standard R33 at this point. Now we are waiting for my RB gearbox to be adapted to the L series block so the car can head back for custom engine and trans mounts to be made.

I would also like to hear how people choose the diameter of the ATI damper. I plan to use one of the trigger wheels that ATI offer.

Its probably a bit late but I'm sure there is somewhere that sells the floor sections to weld in, however I'm yet to find anything for the windscreen areas and my lower windscreen area is a lot worse than yours. I have asked a few people that have been wrecking cars if they want to cut the section and the odd person that is keen changes their mind when they find out I'm on the other side of the world.

I would love to see more detailed pictures of this rear end in the 280zx as this is what I'm preparing to do very soon (want a rotisserie first), I have an R32 gtr rear subframe, my main reason for doing this is to widen the overall track of the rear wheels without the use of large wheel spacers (spacers over 25mm are illegal for rad use here) it also allows me to upgrade the rear brake calipers with having the separate handbrake.

I thought I had added a picture here but after going through all 105 pages I obviously Hadn't and there are so many nice wheels in this thread. Mine are Work Equip's 18x10 up front with 235 tires and 18x12 in the rear with 285 tires, the tires will be replaced before its back on the road. Jeremy.

I would be interested as well, I'm currently have Koni's in the rear which were bolt in and the car sits at a nice height, but the weld on perches up front need to modified again to get the front to sit right. so a set up that is totally bolt in would be a great time saver.

I have a genuine Trust manifold, its absolutely beautiful and worth every cent I paid. Before buying it I did get a quote to have one made and there was very little difference in price at the time. With the quality of most of the stainless steel we see now I wouldn't even think of having one made, I brought a t3 to t4 adapter from America at a similar time to the Trust manifold and that started to rust in no time, whereas the manifold has no rust 10 years later, definitely worth the extra in my eyes.

hey man, looks better now thats its not on my foot. Looks like the insurance money will be through next week, did you want to do a quick trip up there one saturday to get the manifolds started? Let me know.

Yeah you and me both, when i last went for a look it had been striped back to bare metal, and the drivers door repaired, the front gaurds had also been cut, one wasnt there at the time so it might of already been widend, ill post pics up when i get some.

Mines a 83 Fairlady, bearly rolling with a whole heap of new parts to put on and about 6 years in the making.

I Had some from a earlier WRX in my 280z, not sure how different they are but i found the shoulder/wing area to wide and would hit the B piller or door.

Yeah, i got all my gear from Ross at Modern Motorsport, with the wheels i got i ended up needing spacers on the back to push the wheels out to match the fronts since i got the wheels second hand and didnt get to chose the offsets.

my car is being widened that same amount, it is a 280zx though, i converted it to 5 stud and got some 18" volk rims second hand off a auction site 12" wide for the rear and 10" wide for the front, if you search this forum it will be there some where

Im sure the big Japanese tunners still make them, HKS, Tomei and JUN

I found that coil overs on mine gave me clearance issues on the front as the original spring perch sits above the wheel and tire but adjustable coil overs bring the perch down the strut further. On my car when it was standard it was running 14" rims with 235 wide tires all round, the rims had a 0 offset, the front would rub on hard cornering due to the previous owner cutting the springs. With adjustable coilovers in the rear i found it gave me more space and with the right offset you will get a 10" wide wheel may be even a 11" wide wheel in the back.

looking good, mines being done at the moment too, its gaining 3" on each side, i wish i could weld and had the time i could of saved a heap of cash. Keep up the good work cant wait to see what it looks like when its all done

Im using a Sard regulator on my GTiR and a SX on the 280ZX, but the 280 isnt going yet so i cant comment to much on that one, the Sard one has run perfect without fault so far, the Bosch/MSD one i ran before that was a pile of junk.

Hey Frank, are you going to be using a handbrake with your set up? over here we have to keep it for street use and i havent managed to find something to replace the stock setup, was hoping for something to fill up my 18" wheels.

I had a AN bung welded to my oil pan (dont see many turbo pans over here anyway) i then used the standar t3 oil inlet and had it drilled and taped for a AN fitting as well and that bolted straight up to the oil drain on the GT35R turbo. But im not entirely happy with it as the hose didnt have enough drop to the oil pan, so im gonna cut the flange off my manifold and have a T3 flange welded on or change my turbo to something with a T4 flange.

Well over here i think the max wheel spacer allowed on a car is about 25mm, im not sure what your allowed over there, might pay to check, but i would say it would be better to look for something closer to the zero offset mark

I noticed when i got my engine that the flange was in a different place then all the pictures i had seen of manifolds, there may be a post somewhere about it, mine came off a L20.

i looked at that type wheel ages ago, if you buy them new you can actually choose the offset and the can do a zero offset.

Longchamp XR4, they were a Japanese wheel, were 3 peice as well, quite a nice wheel but were way to small for what im after.

try measuring, thats what i did, i put a straight edge against the hub then into the strut and out to the lip of the guard, that will give you a better idea of how wide your wheel can be and will give the off set to. I should of done it myself before my car went away for panel work, i might change the hubs back when i comes back and we might be able to get some proper measurements for futre reference. I know my previous wheels had a zero offset and were 8" front and rear.